What is the optimal condensation temperature for a CO furnace?

Obvious obviousness ... just like honest truth and genuine fact

You seem to be going backwards ....

Obvious obviousness ... just like honest truth and genuine fact ?

Added after 2 [minutes]:

I am actually going back ... I won't be anymore without pickup

Brencik wrote:

kasku97 wrote:

Just do not go too far with lowering the temperature because at some point the stove will no longer maintain the temperature in the rooms.

Not just a boiler.
The larger the radiators, the lower the heating curve can be.

Slavut's colleague does not have weather automation, so there is no heating curve.

Hello,

I have just started the season, the first one, the house has been standing for about 2-3 years, so it is probably not too cold. 165 m2, more or less half on the ground floor and first floor. Downstairs I have a fireplace, a Logamax GB022 and RC35 stove. When I used the temperature by room temperature function, when the fireplace was burned, the heaters at the top got cold and the stove turned off after reaching the set temperature, e.g. 20-21 degrees. Recently I switched to the weather and I can't come to order. Preset boiler temperature - 50 degrees (-10), max flow temperature - 54 degrees. supply temp. 5 degrees. outdoor temp suppression is enabled, but yesterday at -2 the value was the same, and at -1 it was -4. how the boiler operates in the machine at a temperature set at 20.5 degrees, shows the temperature on the boiler 44-46 degrees, at night when it turns on at 19 degrees - the temperature on the boiler is about 30 degrees. I looked at the gas meter and in 48 hours I used 23 m3, I wonder what to do to get to the value you write about, i.e. about 6 m3 / day. 4-person family, no cookers, 100-liter storage tank.
Any ideas?? The heating curve shows a value of 40st, I don't know if it's too much ???

Hello, and I ask seriously, on the De Ditrich single-function condensing stove, I have a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. After heating the water for about 1 hour, the temperature rises to 45 degrees, then leaving, the stove shows the program 8, then 6 ... 5. Despite the fact that the stove does not turn off, it does not reach the expected temperature on the room sensor 20.5 degrees Celsius. It starts working again earlier, cooling the water to 36 degrees. It rises again to 45 degrees and when the sensor senses 20.5 degrees the air temperature turns the stove off. House insulated with styrosuprema 10 years ago. Attic not yet. DRUTEX plastic windows, two panes with freon. I burn / 3 people, washing, cooking, CO at -3 degrees around 6 m3 of gas sometimes 7. My question, the foreman informed me not to worry about the return temperature because he regulates himself ... why if I raise the temperature on the stove to 50 degrees from the stove water is pouring in the area of the water collecting tank, on the bottom of the housing at the center. At tem. 40th degree is approx.
Please, provide an exhaustive answer. Thank you

You have a badly assembled boiler.
At higher temperatures, not all condensate is released in the boiler.
Some of them do it on the chimney and flowing out of there should continue to run and you leak out sideways.

... hello, but when I opened the lid, the container is full of condensed water, so ... please answer the other questions about the temperature.
Thank you

Added after 2 [minutes]:

... he is not sleeping and so he is watching him at - 12 degrees outside, the 1st cycle has already passed and they will start a new one and the step on the 42nd stove when it is set to 40

Added after 1 [minutes]:

.. and how they watch how she didn't pick it up. on the stove it will probably not turn off ... your opinion ...

Your boiler works according to the entered settings (otherwise it would show you an error).
You have set the temperature of 40 ° C for DHW and not for CH.
If it changes your upper CO temperature depending on the outside temperature, you have an installed and active "heating curve" system, i.e. the weather-room.
Scrolling 8 ... 6 ... 5 may indicate that auto-adaptation is on.

Hello and thank you for the info. But for the curve ... I do not have a sensor outside the house, so how would I get the data ... was the representative of the stove and installed it all, tell me how to talk to him because I will have to call him again
Thanks Marek

Then the maximum temperature is always 45 degrees CO, unless you change it manually.

I set the stove to 40 degrees with the button on the right next to + or - AND HOW IT IS ENABLED, I get 45 max, I already set it manually and I can do it as I want.
Is there anything else you can expertly tell me about this setting.
Marek

I have a question about the frequent operation of the boiler.
Namely, it is attached (in my opinion) too often. At the moment, it is set to 45/38. Outside, approx. - 13 ° C The controller is set at 20 ° C in the living room. The boiler turns on for about 7-8 minutes, then it doesn't work for about 8-9 minutes and turns back on again and again. Yesterday I had a higher 55/45 setting, but it was similar with the boiler switching on. The question is is it not too often ??? I read somewhere that in some cases the boiler works roundly for 40 minutes and longer and then it does not turn on for a very long time.

I am asking for your opinion because I do not know whether to do anything about it? Such frequent "chirping" of the boiler is not good for him?

Aha for the record (I wrote about it earlier), my boiler Dietrich MCR 24T condensate heaters + floor heating in the bathroom and hall.

If we are talking about a single-function de ditriche stove, it will turn off and on on the signal it receives from the temperature controller you have in the room, kitchen, corridor, etc., etc. if it turns on and off so often, it can be assumed that it heats up the room quickly and similarly you cool them down quickly. I have settings on the stove in the corridors, I have 45 c, it works 40 minutes, it turns off and it does not work for about that much. Given a higher temperature, it consumes 11 m3 of gas per day with washing, cooking and washing as it is on gas. - temperature -15 at -5 there is about 6 m3 of gas, the bills are 500, 600 PLN ... In the spring I'm going to insulate the attic 1o cm with polystyrene and see how it will be next. The attic windows will get blinds, so it should be a little warmer uffffff Marek

Added after 2 [minutes]:

you have little water, heats up a small room quickly, but probably not tight. if you choose the lowest temperature on the boiler, observe what will happen next

These are the complications in exploiting the so-called boilers. energy-saving, where the user would have to undergo training in heating, if he wants to use the full capacity of the boiler, which due to ... constant efficiency bought and installed.
I know that it will not help in this topic, but I think that in others it will.

marekth wrote:

If we are talking about a single-function de ditriche stove, it will turn off and turn on the signal it receives from the temperature controller you have in your room, kitchen, corridor, etc., if it turns on and off so often, it can be assumed that it heats up the room quickly and similarly you cool them down quickly.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

you have little water, heats up a small room quickly, but probably not tight. if you give the lowest temperature, observe what will happen next

marekth many thanks for the hints. I checked the water level, it was actually a bit low - I refilled, but it didn't help. As for the room, I watched the controller and did not notice the temperature drop on it, so sudden cooling down within a few minutes is also not an option.
It seems to me that the problem lies in the controller itself (Immergas Radio Tybox 810). Maybe it's about setting the device itself (e.g. frequency of launch or hysteresis or something like that ). If I do something wrong, I apologize, but I am not a specialist in this matter.

Today I will dive into the instructions of the driver itself, maybe I will find a solution to the problem there.

Please give me further suggestions

For me, the average consumption from 01/10/20012 to 02/10/2012 is not all 12 m3, in severe frosts -20 it takes about 14-15 m3 of gas max.
The average for the whole season from October 13, 2011 is 7.5 m3.

After a long absence, I come back with the topic of the Immergas Radio Tybox 810 controller.
As for my previous information ... I did not find any specific information in the driver manual.

I wrote to the manufacturer about the frequent switching on of the controller (every few minutes, and this does not necessarily save money and wear and tear of the boiler elements) and here is the answer:

"The Radio Tybox controllers do not operate on the basis of a constant hysteresis. They are programmed in such a way as to constantly maintain the temperature close to the set temperature. It monitors both the temperature in the room and the speed of its increase.

The problem may not necessarily lie with the controller, because if the value of the maximum water temperature in the boiler (set on the boiler) is too low, it will be quickly reached and the boiler will turn off quickly. So you can raise the value of the maximum boiler water temperature; possibly, in the boiler settings, extend the "temperature control time" (time between successive burner starts).

However, in the case of small heated surfaces, the Tybox controller will often turn the boiler on and off (for short periods of operation). "

Of course, I raised the temperature on the boiler, but it did not change anything and besides, the boiler does not turn off automatically, but the controller "cuts it".

I don't really know how I can change the "timing time" - maybe that would help.

Anyway, I replaced the borrowed driver with adjustable hysteresis and ....... as he took away with his hand. The boiler works for about 40 minutes and the same or even longer "rests" :)

From this it follows that it is probably a problem with the driver.

slavuta wrote:

From this it follows that it is probably a problem with the driver.

It is an On-Off thermoregulator, so how it works can be checked with an ordinary multimeter.
The switching frequency is different when the hysteresis, different position of the temperature sensor etc.

As of today, I have burned 1300 m3 since October 13.

Hello

How about these results.
Season 2010/2011 (09/15 - May 1) 1518 m3 7.2 m3 / day
Season 2011/2012 (09/15 - May 1) 1423 m3 6.8 m3 / day

220m2 area on the floor, of which some 120m2 in the attic
3-layer wall (max300 / styrofoam100 / max115)
9 radiators + 30m2 underfloor heating
Vitodens222 boiler + 86 liter cylinder
Weather (CO day 21 oC / night 20 oC) (DHW 43 oC)
I try to keep the supply temperature to a maximum of 45 degrees at -20 degrees outside
Generally I have set 41-42 for regulating curves.

Sometimes I have kept a constant flow temperature of 40 degrees Celsius.

Greetings
Robert

Gentlemen, what temperature should be set for What at the outlet of the boiler? The installer left 60 degrees. On the return there were 50. House 160 meters boiler De Dietrich MCR ll 24 KW. I have cosmic gas consumption and Africa at the cottage. At the top, the radiators are cold because the controller does not even turn them on, so effectively heats 60 meters of floor heating. Heat goes up to the upper rooms. I do not have a sensor on the floor, it is only controlled by a valve with a scale
How did I reduce the starting temperature to 52, the number 8 appeared on the display? I went back to 60 degrees.

the boiler works only on heating, without heating water.

Hello.

It seems to me that you should reduce the flows in the floor heating. All the water circulates through it because it has the least resistance compared to reaching the radiators. If you slow it down a bit, most of the water will go to the radiators. I have a limit on the stove to 43 degrees. It heats constantly with a temperature of around 40-43 degrees at the outlet. I also had a motive that all hot water went to the floor tile and the radiators were cold.

best regards
Robert

From what the installer hurriedly explained to me, the underfloor heating system is a completely separate circuit, and the radiators in my motherboard are made in such a way that each radiator is also a separate circuit. I only have 8 heaters upstairs. There is an AUROTON sensor at the top with the program set to 16 degrees during the day and 14 at night, and from this floor heating, I have almost 20 degrees at the top, so if I take logic, it's probably just cold radiators because the pump does not chase water for them because the driver tells him to do so, which in turn is deceived by the warm air coming from the ground floor to the top from the floor heating. It would be logical to reduce the power supply to the floor heating, but the valve has a scale from 1 -10 and I already went down to 4 and I am a bit afraid to let it freeze overnight because we do not live there yet.

best regards
Robert

Gentlemen, I set the starting temperature to 55 degrees, and on my return I have 50 degrees.
The boiler works all the time, and earlier, when I had 60 degrees on the output, it turned off for a few minutes and then turned on for 15 minutes.
He reports on an ongoing basis because I do not know if it is better for him to work all the time?

Better.
It switched off because the difference between the supply and return temperatures was too small.

Thanks a lot. It's probably when the hut warms up a bit, I will be able to go down to 50 degrees on the power supply and the boiler will work without shutdowns.
I am a bit irritated by the situation that my radiators are cold upstairs, but the rooms are at 18 degrees Celsius. The building has no doors to the upper rooms, so the heat from the ground floor is going up.
This is how you scratch your hair, maybe it is better to turn off the AUROTON and set the heads on the valves manually in the upper radiators so that they are at least a little warm?
Now AUROTON does not release the heating water on top.

Hello

I am asking for info, I have an ACV prestige Solo 32 KW stove - it was set up for the weather and room controllers - an average consumption of 8 m3 for the last 11 days, I'm testing and now setting it on the weather control only without a room controller - on my curves No. 3 at a temperature of 9 on outside 30 C power supply.
And here's the question, because the return temperature is 27-29 C, does it also condense with such settings - I assume it is, but how does it relate to efficiency.
How better to set it, or can it raise the curve so that it is 40C on the power supply?
Of course, I have no objections to the heat at home, but I test which settings are better, I want to find the optimum. I know it will take some time, but I'd like to discuss it.

Especially since there is not much on the internet about this stove and its settings.
If anyone has ACV please contact us

I have a house of 240 m2 - from 1980, hollow brick and aerated concrete 40 cm, additionally insulated by 10 cm polystyrene, the bottom of the room 2.20m- 80 m2, the top 2.60m - 80 m2 - these are heaters, usable attic 100% floor tiles 80m2 - roof 25 cm wool 15 cm - 0.33 and 10 cm - 039 - of course plastic windows, 10-year-old 3-chamber windows, but glass 1.1.

I think the house parameters are ok - what consumption can be planned for such a house?

Sorry to stick in the thread.

Brencik wrote:

It switched off because the difference between the supply and return temperatures was too small.

In my boiler I also noticed such spells that despite not reaching the temperature set on the room controller, it turns off for some time (but the pump works during this time). My boiler is Immergas Zeus mini - no condensate, so I don't know if that's the case for me too. But if the principle of operation is roughly similar, maybe I should reduce the output temperature a bit?

pyrzynap wrote:

Hello
- average consumption of 8 m3 for the last 11 days,
I have a house of 240 m2 - from 1980,

It is to envy my colleague such a result.
I have been testing my barely 162 meters for 11 days, I have reached 6.5 -7.5 meters a day at an inside temperature of 20 degrees Celsius.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

FOSGEN1 wrote:

Sorry to stick in the thread.

Brencik wrote:

It switched off because the difference between the supply and return temperatures was too small.

?

Well, it is not known if this is the reason for the timing of the boiler. I can set it by operating the three-way valve and the supply temperature that the difference between the output and the return is only 3-4 degrees and it still clocked densely. Supply 38, return 34-35. I think I have a boiler that is too big, and so small in appearance