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Unlocking Needle in Herz Valve: Radiator Stopped Heating, Thermostatic Head & DIY Solutions

Zhan 70762 33
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #31 21315478
    60jarek
    Level 28  
    Topic solved, by the way, I wrote you that it is worth fitting a radiator drain valve and a vent.
    The air vent, as the name suggests, is for venting. This is done by closing the radiator head to 0 and then bleeding the radiator using the bleeder valve in the radiator, closing the water supply to the radiator with the radiator head for the bleeding time and bleeding it using the valve.
    What is the lower radiator valve used for? -The purpose of the lower radiator valve is to regulate the flow of water in the radiator circuit - you can literally hear the distinct sound of water. This adjustment is done once or every few years throughout the system, starting with the radiator closest to the cooker and ending with the furthest away from the radiator, depending on how the installation was made. (sometimes not everyone uses "ore expanders" in a copper installation, it depends on whether there is a need for this in your installation, but this is at the laying and installation design stage). Such minor comments in passing.
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  • #32 21315484
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    The lower valve (on the return) is not for flow control (orifice), but a shut-off valve when the radiator needs to be removed (e.g. if the radiator breaks, or if the wall behind the radiator needs to be painted).
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  • #33 21315538
    60jarek
    Level 28  
    Zbigniew Rusek wrote:
    The bottom valve (on the return) is not for flow control (orifice)
    .
    Not only that. It all depends on the installation, it has to be done to avoid, for example, a situation where a room is underheated or definitely too warm. I did such an adjustment a few years ago for a neighbour at home and he is still happy with it today, we ran around the rooms for a while, but then the end result surprised him, as well as the myth of "lifting part of a longer radiator to supposedly make it heat better, a complete debilitation of flat earth scientists", that's what the cross connection is for sometimes.
    Each installation is a separate topic depending on the workmanship etc.
    In my block of flats, while I was away, a professional got hold of a radiator valve replacement.
    The idiot not only put a shit valve in my... The idiot not only replaced the valve but also lifted part of the radiator up - "apparently he found that the ground was round" or he didn't have the right reduction with him and he even bent the pipe away from the riser.
    The same idiot tore a gas pipe out of the wall at the connection to the gas meter during the replacement - as you can see, he won't stay long with this company, they hardly had to cut off the gas supply in the block of flats, it's a good thing I returned to my flat and we quickly fixed it. They did this in my absence and a colleague made the flat available to the community service staff.
    They took the manager of this team off holiday and I did it all on the run with him, he chased the workers out, what a mess.
    Everything was done anew. Now I've done the gas installation and heating myself, but I had to check afterwards that everything was done properly - from less than 16 degrees I can now enjoy 28 degrees at maximum in the cottage (you can always remove the radiator heads and Africa"), of course I turn the valve halfway down unless it's windy outside or there's a real frost, but that's specific to the climate and the location of the flat.
  • #34 21315926
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Overheating or underheating should be prevented mainly by the thermostatic head, as it is the thermostat. Overheating or underheating should be prevented mainly by the thermostatic head, as it is the thermostat.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around troubleshooting a non-heating radiator due to a stuck valve needle in a Herz thermostatic valve. Users share DIY solutions, including unscrewing the brass nut to access the needle, applying WD-40 for lubrication, and manually moving the needle to restore functionality. Concerns about potential water leaks during the process are addressed, with some users reporting minor leaks that did not hinder the repair. Others mention that complete valve replacement may be necessary if the needle is irreparably damaged. The conversation highlights various experiences and techniques for unblocking the valve while managing the risk of water spillage.
Summary generated by the language model.
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