Installing Radiators in a 35m Garage: Insulation and Thermostatic Valve Considerations

I also built a garage last year, 16 away from the house, geodetic conditions....
When making the water and sewer connection, I decided to run underfloor heating pipes (packed inside a PVC pipe so blue that they do not get damaged)
It works great for me, because it heats the entire garage area as well as the sewer, and this is useful in the winter in case of car trouble.
Pipes outside buried to a depth of about 70 cm.
Temperature controller in the garage. I have it set at 17 degrees C
I was going to put ordinary radiators under the windows, but a neighbor who did it for me (he has a company dealing with central heating) advised me this solution, I do not regret.

bobek5001 wrote:

The garage has an area of 35m and walls 25cm thick should I insulate the building or leave it there? Of course, I do not want to get there the temperature as in the house but it is completely enough a few dashes above zero, because of the equipment kept there. And I solve turning off this ordinary valves or thermostatic??

1) As far as I understood you want to heat the garage constantly. If it is unfinished (and you were to do exterior plastering) then it makes as much sense to insulate it with a thinner (10-15cm) layer of Styrofoam.
2) As a colleague wrote - if you don't have screeds yet then underfloor will be a great thing. Provided that you always already heat this garage. You will drain water from the radiators, pipes laid with a slope and risers will drain water. The flooring will not.

William B. I forgot to add that at the underfloor I have a valve in the duct (duct 170 cm deep) valve at a height of about 80 cm from the floor of the duct, so I have no problem with draining water, that way I can drain the whole riser there even in the house. I left out this info unknowingly.

Well, and water is not necessarily the factor.

But underfloor heating is not good for cars especially in winter
The best are heaters .

In my opinion, yes, they can have more power than twice the size of a panel heater.
You can always still apply some fan behind this heater.

Garage is rather a place heated sporadically and only during the biggest frosts maybe you should be interested in electric solutions? A cheap static furnace on the 2nd tariff and you're done. The water in the system will never freeze you:-) .

The most economical and cheapest to implement is the underfloor in the garage.
And then there can indeed be a slight heating up to 10 ° C.
And as you read here and there, it is also recommended for the car. The car is evenly heated, moisture evaporates faster, evenly heated lubricants, oils, suspension, tires is also a big advantage.

A heater only heats the ceiling, only after cooling down the air goes down, you need to supply much more energy and high temperature to the radiator, and from the floor cuts cold, as well as through the door not always tight, moisture and rust do their own, and with the firing of the car can also be problems, the engine icy and sucking much warmer rare air.

bobek5001 wrote:

Hello after a long break I was also thinking about a heater but they are very expensive and I would like to do it as cheaply as possible and I found two such coolers on 3/8 inch pipes in the attic and I wonder if at 45-50 degrees factor such a heater will heat my garage to those 10 degrees in plus.

Greetings and look forward to your evaluation.

If you slightly rework these coolers then you will not need to install a fan.
In the middle photo you can see the upper tube connecting the right side with the left.
Unfasten it and put there the Trojan connecting the right and left as they were, and the side connection of the Trojan connect to the CO supply. Do the same on the opposite side with the pipes feeding the cooler, connect them together with a T-piece and connect to the return of the central heating, it will double the surface of heat transfer from the same amount of flowing water and it will be easier to vent.

Installing a fan to this radiator (functioning as a heater) will greatly accelerate the heating of the garage. Without a fan is better for permanent heating and if you need ad hoc - a fan is advisable. The same is true for electric heating - a kiosk that is cooled after a night will be heated the fastest by a thermo-blower. The car radiator is copper, so it gives off heat perfectly.

Hello everyone

Added after 13 [minutes]:

at my place it looks like this garage:
22m2 heating 45max50 degrees from the home furnace distance from the house about 15m zanked system flooded with coolant exchanger from some car heater dimensions 40cm by 50cm fan converted from the room and now so the heater does not work at all temperature inefficiently it means that what water flows in the same flows out the fan even copes with it I'm going to replace the air conditioning vent at a cost of about 200zł what do you guys think about such a solution

Now it looks like in the pictures. Cost 110zl plus shipping 30zl. It heats super. Even at 45 degrees.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

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If permanently , then only underfloor. For 35 m2, a 200m disc of pipe for 500 zł will be enough ( the company's, not from the market) Radiators and approaches will come out more expensive and worse. As colleagues wrote , it will be warm under the ceiling, and at the entrance door will be frozen, and if not, snow mud will be on the floor will lie continuously. The temperature set at 7-8 degrees C will feel like 12 at the radiators. If there is a duct , it means that the author will sometimes do something at the car, and the floor for this purpose is the best - heat at the bottom, where it is needed. In addition, with a heated slab, opening the garage does not cause its immediate evaporation - a lot of inertia.
And lest anyone accuse me of lip service, I will write that I have a garage of 42m2 with such heating 2 pettings with pipe spacing of 20-25cm. And who does not enter in the winter is saying : "how warm it is here" and in the garage is still maintained at about 8 degrees C.
In the past, when I was installing alarms in cars I had set 12 degrees C and clothing such as a shirt and dungarees were sufficient.
For underfloor heating in the garage EPS100 hard foamed polystyrene min. thickness. 8 cm. Screed min 8 cm and good slopes , although there may be a problem , if there is a channel, then you need to make drains around it, troughs.
Termoregulator mandatory(+ thermal actuator), does not have to be with a sensor in the floor.

Yes, underfloor heating is great. Provided that we work in the garage every day. In my case, I don't always have something to fix so I still think my solution is good and economical.

Heaters are ok
The important thing is to oversize it, the bigger the better.

Jacek79 wrote:

Heaters are ok It is important to oversize it, the bigger the better

and you need to supply them with water at a fairly high temperature, and only to heat the ceiling. When you open the door, the room immediately cooled and in turn need ful energy. Around the door a perpetual smear of mud, and even often ice.
When entering the garage immediately fogging up all the windows.
Under the car lack of air circulation, even persistent sub-zero temperatures, high humidity, rapid corrosion, stiff suspension, hard tires that only after driving a few kilometers have a good grip.
Car standing in such a garage is always cold inside, icy undercarriage enters the cold through the floor.
The only advantage of heaters (and heaters) is that the snow does not collect on the garage roof.


A floor heating is devoid of all these disadvantages !
In the garage as there is a good sand bed is a hard Styrofoam 4-8cm is enough and on this film, pipes and 8-10cm of concrete.
And the cost of construction as well as heating VERY cheap.
Once heated concrete slab - even if only to 15 ° C maintains a temperature of 8-12 ° C in the garage for a long time, and it is enough that there is water flowing in these pipes at a temperature of 20 ° C, some then use the water from the return from radiators.


Another interesting heating is to bury about 20m of sewer pipe (gray 110) to a depth of more than 120cm and with a small fan (20-45W) pump air through these pipes and we have in the garage for free about 14 ° C. In the summer heat you can then cool down the garage for free.

wada wrote:

.... and with a small fan (20-45W) pump air through these pipes and.... for free around 14°C. In the summer heat, you can then cool down the garage for free.

And the fan what kind of drive does it have, if FREE?

wnoto wrote:

Another interesting heating is to bury about 20m of sewer pipe (gray 110) more than 120cm deep and with a small fan (20-45W) pump air through these pipes and we have about 14°C in the garage for free. In the summer heat you can then cool the garage for free.

How will 20 m of pipe underground warm the air from -18 to 14 degrees ??
From the ground , which is not even 10C in winter ?

wada wrote:

A floor is devoid of all these disadvantages !

Depends how you look at it.

Floor heating has a huge inertia and therefore it is advantageous when the room is used constantly and not occasionally ;
Must be properly prepared insulation of the floor .

In the West in warehouses where people stay for a short period of time, the most common is the use of various types of radiant heaters. Such a radiant heater can be a goat and a goat chimney although more often electric radiant heaters hung on the walls or under the ceiling are used.

Also, with an average use of this garage less than 4h a day during the heating season, other solutions (even electric radiant heaters) will come out cheaper to operate.

It is also not beneficial for the car if it collects snow with salt from the street every day then defrosts it on the car.

Hello
I have a question , what diameter pex to give to bring heating to the garage 35m2 away 20m? Garage insulated with 10cm polystyrene foam also ceiling. I plan one radiator , temp max 15 degrees C.Of course there will be a circulating pump.

daniel_lhr wrote:

welcome
I have a question , what diameter pex to give to bring the heating to the garage 35m2 away 20m? Garage insulated with 10cm styrofoam also ceiling. I plan one radiator , temp max 15 degrees C.Of course there will be a circulating pump.

Don't play with it. Connect electric oil


Added after 53 [seconds]:

daniel_lhr wrote:

welcome
I have a question , what diameter pex to give to bring the heating to the garage 35m2 away 20m? Garage insulated with 10cm styrofoam also ceiling. I plan one radiator , temp max 15 degrees C.Of course there will be a circulating pump.

Don't play with it. Large losses on such a section
Plug electric oil
Or cumulative.

Hardly a little energy will escape .I repeat the question what diameter pex ? I have already buried 110mm pvc pipe , I think I will put 2x alupex 16 and lagging 18/20 , does it make sense?

It is better to give a larger diameter, less hydraulic resistance at such a distance