Pass-through Sockets Wiring: Safely Connecting 3x2.5mm² Wires for Daisy-Chaining

Probably a trivial matter, but I wonder how it should be professionally connected ..
It is about pass-through sockets - on one side there are 3 power cords - on the other side there are 3 wires for the next socket. How to connect them to the socket and let the electricity go on (connect 2 wires on the screws in the socket, are there any cubes or other way ...)

So far, I have always dealt with installations that the main box was above the socket under the ceiling, from where the electricity went on and one wire for each connection was connected in the socket ..)
In such an arrangement of pass-through sockets, I would not like to lose power on the contacts (the wires are 3x2.5 - if I connect to the socket contacts, then going through the next sockets will not be a big loss - the wire contact on the screws is not too large - if any wire is loosened, it can heat up. on the contacts - it is not even known in which socket ...)

Of course, on the contacts in the socket. With 2.5 mm cables it will be hard (it also depends on the socket manufacturer).

And what sockets do you recommend to connect well?

Maybe there are some sockets with built-in WAGO connectors instead of screws?

I always use socket clamps and after mounting the frame, I tighten the screws before installing the sign and there is a guitar guitar.
A double screw socket on the plug terminal plate has profiled plates on the sides so that the wire does not stick out from under the head, after tightening I press these plates to the edge of the screw.
And the self-tightening wires with the appropriate length of the wires according to the manufacturer's requirements, it is not a problem for it to slide out by itself.

And not better right?

Or yes:

I use x2, x3, x4 boxes, I use 2.5mm? Ly with pressed sleeves between the sockets.
Of course, in 3 colors

shulc wrote:

I use x2, x3, x4 boxes, I use 2.5mm? Ly with pressed sleeves between the sockets.
Of course, in 3 colors

I see. And you connect the cord with the wire

elpapiotr wrote:

I see. And you connect the cord with the wire

Yes, under the screw terminal of the socket, and I'm not talking about poor quality sockets

Bronek22 wrote:

Socket with weight and 6 2.5mm2 wires ???

6 wires, I do not know if it will be connected (depending on how many wires they will have), but 6 wires are no problem, you can make supplies yet. There is an example in post # 9 anyway.

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

I always use socket clamps and after mounting the frame, I tighten the screws before installing the sign and there is a guitar guitar.

This is a very valuable comment. I also always tighten the contacts after mounting the socket to the box. If someone tries to do this, he will notice that sometimes when he twists in the air to the maximum, after installing the socket in the box, it goes a little more tightening.

I don't understand why
Even with shallow 2x, 3x etc. boxes, everything fits easily (with well-thought-out wiring). There is also no problem with stuffing stiff and flexible six 2.5 when mounting the socket.


I wonder what colleagues who like to connect directly to the accessories will do, if three 3x2.5mm? wires are connected to the box - this is often the case for technological reasons.

Most often, problems with circuit continuity occur precisely at the socket terminals.

gogi20 wrote:

This is a very valuable comment. I also always tighten the contacts after mounting the socket to the box. If someone tries to do this, they will notice that sometimes they like twists in the air to the max after installing the socket in the box, it goes a little more tightening.

Or twist. Nothing but losses.

elpapiotr wrote:

gogi20 wrote:

This is a very valuable comment. I also always tighten the contacts after mounting the socket to the box. If someone tries to do that, they will notice that sometimes they like twists in the air to the max after mounting the socket in the box, it goes a little more tightening.

Or twist. Nothing but losses.

I always take a not too long extension when I tighten the contacts in sockets and connectors, so I don't think I will twist

If it turns sensitively it won't twist, but "fate rule 324" anything can happen.
If there is a larger set, well WAGO is at hand, without WAGO as without a hand, only torments.

zdzisiek1979 , you can also use the method suggested by a colleague elpapiotr - it is definitely cheaper, but more time-consuming.

My blood is flooding when I remove the socket cover and I can see the connections on the clamps of the accessories. A typical developer who will take revenge sooner or later - believe me.

Yes, the solution of my colleague elpapiotr is cool and practical because there is no need to pretend there are the fewest connections along the way. Well, everybody does as they can, and even if they punish them sometimes (plus supply of material).
And so then the measurement verifies it.
And most of the failures that I have encountered on the sockets are not a matter of connection or on the terminals, an ankle or a weight, but just a forcefully torn out socket.

The only drawback that bothers me is when embedding the socket is the resistance of 3 veins less than 6, but a matter of habit. I'm already used to it. When a well seated can is a well inserted cable, it is a nice job, otherwise a nightmare and improvisation.

And I'm pissed off by the cool inside of the can with plaster

shulc wrote:

Yes, under the screw terminal of the socket, and I'm not talking about poor quality sockets

I tried this technique - it holds up poorly on the clamps. There is a difference in the cross section of the clamped ferrule with 2.5 mm? wire and the 2.5 mm? wire.

Łukasz-O wrote:

believe it

it convinces me, you have more practice like me

Łukasz-O wrote:

I can see the joints on the rigging clamps

Yes, especially if a set of 4 is connected to each other DY,
as for the cans

shulc wrote:

I use x2, x3, x4 boxes, I use 2.5mm? Ly with pressed sleeves between the sockets.

I meant the PK-60 combo set,
As for Wago, I have never been allergic to it, I always have it on hand and use it, but always only Wago from WAGO, which in the new version made it slimmer, but I hope it has not lost anything of its endurance.
And you remember the discussions about these connectors, how g ..... or cool, I haven't noticed them lately, you can see more people have found out.
So how is the connection between the sockets with the LY wire from your practice ???

shulc wrote:

So how is the connection between the sockets with the LY wire from your practice ???

I have no idea.

shulc wrote:

So how is the connection between the sockets with the LY wire from your practice ???

The problem is only with the clamp. The clamp works best when both sides of the screw have the same cross-section. There are, in a way, clamps that somehow have the same pressure regulation or something like that, but I don't go into it.
As for the wire itself. I encountered double plaster sockets where the manufacturer specially made bridges from the line, but he tightened the forks and I have never had a problem with them.

elpapiotr wrote:

I have no idea.

In my tests, it did not provide a solid connection due to the difference in cross-section. Therefore, I abandoned this solution.

TWK wrote:

elpapiotr wrote:

I have no idea.

In my tests, it did not provide a solid connection due to the difference in cross-section. Therefore, I abandoned this solution.

Of course not. That is why some people have never used anything like this.

TWK wrote:

In my tests, it did not provide a solid connection due to the difference in cross-section. Therefore, I abandoned this solution.

It is a bit time-consuming, at least in my case, for one connection you need three bridges that need to be cut to about 15 cm, made and pressed on both sides. I always clamp the sleeve three or four times, then the difference between DY is not that significant
I have two presses, a Cimco with replaceable stones
http://cimco.home.pl/cimco/images/stories/produkty/cimco-13.pdf
but she works poorly for these purposes, while the other company YATO, max 4 mm, I am telling you how she works in this task

elpapiotr wrote:

Of course not. That is why some people have never used anything like this.

Your method, I have never used it, but the day will come that I will do it, but it must also be done correctly, in the photo in # 8 (cubes, strip) PE conductors are on top of each other, on N they are next to each other, here you can also cut (cut or crush) the vein with a screw if it is tightened incorrectly, then we press such a connector into the box and we have no control over the clamp, and it is known that the most susceptible point to bending and stretching is the weakened point

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

. There are, in a way, clamps that have somehow the same pressure regulation

Let's say good accessories, some of them also have such clearance to the screw clamp that you need to press the tip properly so that it passes through it

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

And I'm pissed off by the cool inside of the can with plaster

Especially the first assembly, the walls on the Coooloor and there is muck, and so you move with the litter box and the cloth for the handles

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

If it turns sensitively, it will not turn,

This is true of all twist connections, and in some cases, over-zealousness is worst

Łukasz-O wrote:

Even with shallow 2x, 3x etc. boxes, everything fits easily (with well-thought-out wiring).

Yes, well, almost like this is done in the kitchen, almost means not so under the corner, you know the shoemaker in the ......., but here is a uniform can, other possibilities

Bronek22 wrote:

Installation technology is the secrets of every professional.

In part, yes, but if you are clever and move around the area, something will always catch your eye.
Secondly, there is the Otwock and Falenice schools.
When I have time, I sit and think, if I don't have time, I just sit

shulc wrote:

It is a bit time-consuming, at least in my case, for one connection you need three bridges that need to be cut to about 15 cm, made and pressed on both sides. I always clamp the sleeve three or four times, then the difference between DY is not that significant

Time-consuming, additional ballast for assembly in the form of a press. Now one more thing, see how many unnecessary connections there are to transfer the entire load for the last socket in the circuit. Have someone connect a farelka in the last socket, it guarantees that all socket terminals on the line will be at least warm. With your method, you have at least two, if not three or four times as many critical places that affect the continuity of power and protection.

shulc wrote:

elpapiotr wrote:

Of course not. That is why some people have never used anything like this.

Your method, I have never used it, but the day will come that I will do it, but it must also be done correctly, in the photo in # 8 (cubes, strip) the PE conductors are on top of each other, on N they are next to each other, here you can also cut (cut or crush) the vein with a screw if it is tightened incorrectly, then we press such a connector into the box and we have no control over the clamp, and it is known that the most susceptible point to bending and stretching is the weakened point

And here the devil is in the details. With this type of connection, it is important to wrap the wires (as it was written before the war) at the terminals, before we start to "stuff":

In the picture it is at a 90 ° angle (Paint ) but they are about gentle curves

Friend elpapiotr he did not mention it (did not show it), as some technical solutions seem obvious. After all, it was just about connecting.

No. 1 - incorrect lead, sooner or later a single wire will break.
Nos. 2 and 3 - correct derivation, bending forces are distributed, something like a spring.

shulc wrote:

This is true of all twist connections, and in some cases, over-zealousness is worst

There are producers and series, for example, a well-known company on "L" - also professional (mainly in terms of price ), where the threads on the screws are notoriously twisted. As soon as I know that this model is to be assembled, please the investor or buy a few more pieces.
I think each of us has happened to twist the thread in a crappy accessory - or a kind of professional one.
With my friend Elpapiotr or mine, only one nest will fall, and the whole further circuit with yours ...

shulc wrote:

Especially the first assembly, the walls on the Coooloor and there is muck, and so you move with the litter box and the cloth for the handles

Unfortunately, this is a problem for all of us who come to assemble the equipment.

shulc wrote:

Łukasz-O wrote:

Even with shallow 2x, 3x etc. boxes, everything fits easily (with well-thought-out wiring).

Yes, well, almost like this is done in the kitchen, almost means not so under the corner, you know the shoemaker in the ......., but here is a uniform can, other possibilities

Don't worry, it's the same for me - when I moved into my new apartment, I did everything quickly. Now I would do completely different - exemplary :D

shulc wrote:

Secondly, there is the Otwock and Falenice schools.
When I have time, I sit and think, if I don't have time, I just sit

I have heard this saying many times and to be honest I don't know what it was about ...
I made installations in Otwock and Falenica - I did not see any differences in approach. An interesting fact is that despite Falenica administratively belongs to Warsaw, it is served by the Otwock region.

I noticed shortcuts in the German developer. Not that I have not seen similar solutions in Poland ... but ... Pass-through sockets: arrival and departure cut so short that only the balance is fastened + 1cm of reserve, and the balance is connected to the LG 1.5mm ^ 2 socket. Easy, convenient and supposedly works.

@ Lukasz-O

Łukasz-O wrote:

I have heard this saying many times and to be honest I don't know what it was about.

I also do not know for sure, it is probably older than the good practice of an electrician.
If there are two schools, there must be two teachers, of which there may be two views, etc.

Łukasz-O wrote:

And here the devil is in the details.

Exactly, I did not say it was a babol and I will not make such a connection, apparently I wrote it wrong. I don't stick to mine, but I have some concerns

Łukasz-O wrote:

Nos. 2 and 3 - correct derivation, bending forces are distributed, something like a spring.

Yes, but if there is play in the joint after folding, there is no room for improvement
, I do not insist, you have more experience, what I undertake, I try to do exactly
greetings