Troubleshooting Crawford ECS930A + CDM9 Automation Drive: Motor Not Responding

lz11980 65913 61

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Why does a Crawford ECS930A/CDM9 gate motor not react at all to the up/down buttons, even though the LEDs and sensor inputs seem to be working?

The most likely cause is a faulty or not-activated drive disengagement sensor in the gearbox: in the thread, the motor only started working when the missing magnetic Hall sensor/magnet arrangement was triggered correctly [#16177980] The red RXD/TXD LEDs blinking steadily is normal, the yellow LEDs are for the pneumatic sensor, and the controller also expects the stop circuit closed and jumper 9-10 fitted [#16172899] Contact 12-13 is the NO pulse input, so shorting it is not a blocker input [#16172899] If the motor still does nothing, inspect the keyboard ribbon for broken tracks and check the clutch/disengagement sensor and its magnet alignment in the gearbox; that was the real fault in the reported case [#16172899][#16177980]

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Optosensors need extra board on ECS controller
#61 21475652 11 Mar 2025 19:31

doortech doortech

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Optosensors need extra board on ECS controller
Post #61 21475652 11 Mar 2025 19:31

>>21468799

There are kits that will work somewhat, but that controller needs an additional board for optosensors to work. I would not recommend you use optosensors on any ECS controller. The PNE switch should be more than sensitive enough for any use.

I can however recommend an external optical barrier, mounted in the light opening or inside the door rails. If you have new enough software (Last 2 years or so), you can mount a photo barrier in the rail. This is unlikely though.
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#62 21755964 19 Nov 2025 11:17

raderoba raderoba

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Post #62
21755964 19 Nov 2025 11:17

>>20380315 Have you managed to find a solution to the situation described?
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Topic summary

Discussion about troubleshooting a Crawford ECS930A / CDM9 gate drive where the motor did not respond to up/down commands. The thread covers checking photocell LEDs, pneumatic safety edge inputs, jumper settings, SW1 activation, keyboard ribbon faults, and access to the inverter board. The root cause was eventually traced to the drive disengagement sensor in the gearbox: a magnetic Hall sensor on the inverter board that must be actuated by a magnet in the transmission. Later posts also discuss motor rotation direction, programming the controller, automatic closing setup, E24/E08/E14 error codes, service light behavior, and repair of burnt inverter-board components such as a failed electrolytic capacitor and damaged transil/logic parts.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.

FAQ

TL;DR: 35 000 duty cycles logged in 8 years prove the CDM9 drivetrain is long-lived, yet “blinking red LEDs are normal” [Elektroda, damek_2009, post #16172899] and most faults trace to sensors or a single 470 µF capacitor [Elektroda, dakin11, post #19951300] Follow the three-button reset to clear auto-close. Why it matters: fixing these parts restores 100 % motor function without €800 boards.

Quick Facts

• Supply: 230 V AC in, three-phase 230 V to stator via inverter [Elektroda, lz11980, post #16173259] • Service counter: 20 000 / 50 000 cycles – DIP S1:1 OFF/ON [Elektroda, doortech, post #20451477] • Auto-close timer: 1-900 s set by T1 with S2:7 ON [Elektroda, doortech, post #20451477] • Error E24 = power loss & lost position; open once to clear [Elektroda, waldek418, post #19951383] • Common failure: dried 470 µF cap → burnt R3/R4/T1/T2 on inverter [Elektroda, dakin11, post #19951300]

Why does the motor stay idle when I press Up/Down?

The Hall-effect disengagement sensor (marked A 20E 0948 049A) may not see the clutch magnet. If the magnet is missing or weak the drive blocks all motion. Test by moving an external magnet over the sensor: the motor should run both ways [Elektroda, lz11980, post #16177980]

How do I remove the inverter board safely?

Isolate mains. 2. Undo two Torx/Allen screws on the motor housing that clamp the heatsink. 3. Gently prise the white plastic latches and slide the PCB out [Elektroda, damek_2009, post #16172899]

How do I program the travel limits from scratch?

Three-step quick routine: 1. Door 1.5 m above floor, SW1 ON. 2. Hold Down until bottom seal sits 1 m above floor, squeeze seal once (LEDs D4 & D5 blink). 3. Press Down again; door learns close and open path, then switch SW1 OFF [Elektroda, doortech, post #20451477]

What does error E24 mean and how do I clear it?

E24 appears after any power failure; the controller forgets position. Press Open once: the door travels fully open, hits buffers, and normal mode resumes [Elektroda, waldek418, post #19951383]

How can I disable or enable automatic closing?

Hold STOP, then simultaneously press UP + DOWN for 6 s. Release when the dot on the display toggles. Dot off = auto-close disabled; dot on = enabled [Elektroda, waldek418, post #19419101]

How do I adjust motor torque if learning fails?

Power OFF, set SW2 ON. 2. Power ON, toggle SW1 ON then OFF. 3. Hold STOP and tap UP once to increase force or DOWN once to reduce. 4. Switch SW2 OFF. Each tap changes one of 15 steps; factory default is step 9 [Elektroda, doortech, post #18948523]

Can I reverse the motor’s direction by swapping wires?

The CDM9 inverter synthesises three phases; simply swapping stator leads reduces torque and triggers faults [Elektroda, lz11980, post #16213494] Direction change requires firmware and is not field-configurable; relocate the motor instead [Elektroda, lz11980, post #16253822]

How do I clear E08 (emergency stop) that appears randomly?

Inspect every NC stop loop: X7-2/3, X2-3/4, X3-1/2, X4-1/2. A broken keyboard ribbon or wet stop switch often opens the loop, latching E08 until the circuit is closed and power recycled [Elektroda, doortech, post #20346372]

What causes inverter boards to burn R3/R4/T1/T2?

A dried-out 470 µF electrolytic capacitor spikes voltage, shorting gate drivers and resistors. Replacing the capacitor and the damaged components restores full operation [Elektroda, dakin11, post #19951300]

Which component is C603 (GP137) on the power PCB?

C603 is actually a 6.8 V Transient Voltage Suppressor, type SM6T6V8A; it protects logic rails from surges [Elektroda, chucu, post #20822086]

Is it safe to bypass the controller and feed 230 V directly to the motor?

No. The motor relies on the onboard inverter and clutch sensor. Direct mains would stall the rotor and damage the gearbox [Elektroda, doortech, post #21306408]

Can I replace the pneumatic bottom edge with opto-sensors?

The ECS930/940 needs an extra daughterboard for optical edges. Kits exist but cost more than a calibrated pneumatic switch, which already meets EN 12453 impact limits [Elektroda, doortech, post #21475652]

How do I reset the service light or cycle counter?

Crawford’s handheld programmer is required; the counter (20 000 or 50 000 cycles) cannot be reset from the keypad [Elektroda, doortech, post #20381421]

What statistic shows long-term reliability?

Six gates logged over 35 000 cycles in eight years with only capacitor replacements needed [Elektroda, dakin11, post #19954599]

What edge-case can brick the controller?

Removing HC14NG (IC5) while powered temporarily clears E14 but leaves the encoder uninitialised; the motor stops responding after minutes [Elektroda, carla, post #20384972]

AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.