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Sealing 110mm PVC Pipe & 50mm Entrance: Best Glue or Resin for Watertight & Water-Resistant Seal

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How can I make a watertight seal between a cut 110 mm sewer pipe and a 50 mm branch without relying on silicone that keeps leaking?

Use a proper sewer saddle/branch fitting with a gasket instead of trying to glue the cut tee to the pipe, because the pipe and tee are likely PP and not ordinary PVC, so silicone and most adhesives will not hold reliably [#16509936][#16512596] If the pipe is truly PVC-U, then use a solvent cement such as Tangit, but only on correctly matched PVC parts; it is not a cure for a poorly fitting, mismatched joint [#16514812][#16512596] For PP/PE sewer pipe, the thread says there is effectively no good adhesive solution; the practical alternatives are a special saddle coupling or welding the plastic with PP material and hot air/soldering-iron style plastic welding [#16519679][#16520618] One user reported a similar repair working with a cut reduction tee, silicone, and clamps, but the same discussion concludes that this is a temporary workaround rather than the proper fix [#16518080][#16518479]
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  • #31 16518432
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #32 16518479
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
    Kurtka na wacia wrote:
    The only thing that is beyond me is laying tiles on the walls or floors. I'm just too nervous for that.
    Well, I'll give you advice for the future. Align the substrate perfectly and it will be much easier and more pleasant to glue it, the quality of the arrangement should increase, and quite a lot.

    Coming back to the topic, give a thick gasket to that cut tee and squeeze it properly.
    You can even make a gasket of silicone, just wait 24 hours before pressing it.
    You paste this tee thickly, pressing it lightly so that the silicone fits nicely but it does not squeeze out completely, let it stay with 0.5cm (a seal will be made) so that there is something to squeeze later. The wider the better.
  • #33 16518510
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    Kurtka na wacia wrote:
    Do you drain the water from the boiler rather rarely? So what's supposed to leak or smell there?

    From the boiler, of course, only if the heater is replaced, while the thicker pipe runs the physiological "production" of all residents plus the rest of the sewage system, so you understand :D
    I'm fifty and three, somehow :P
    And I like construction too, tiles are as simple as those who do it - and they can even throw the electrical installation into the walls by the way, so what's the problem ...
    V.
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  • #34 16518567
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist  
    vorlog wrote:

    I'm fifty and three, somehow :P
    And I like construction too, tiles are as simple as those who do it - and they can even throw the electrical installation into the walls by the way, so what's the problem ...
    V.


    Later, such as after these "fahofcah" have to correct and catch their heads what they were doing ;)
  • #35 16518601
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    Plumpi what do you think, why I (and many colleagues probably also) prefer to lay tiles, panels, insert windows, do all installations, instead of earning "fahofcom"?
    Because I do it for myself so I try to do according to the art and without hurrying and saving.
    Because I can't afford corrections!
    You don't have to correct me after me ...
    V.
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  • #36 16518623
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
    vorlog wrote:
    You don't have to correct me after me ...
    I wouldn't be so sure about the tiles :) This is a driving school. Well, but I do not exclude that I might be surprised.
  • #37 16518703
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    WędkarzStoLica wrote:
    I wouldn't be so sure about the tiles :) This is a driving school. Well, but I do not exclude that I might be surprised.

    Believe me, this is a simple matter, a matter of daring - I learned from the description in the Atlas company magazine (1990s, somewhere in the middle) where there was a nice description of glues, how to prepare the substrate, what joints, etc. Now on the net (only not some haunted murator) you've got it all.
    The only tiles that I am afraid of myself, although I am not trying them on yet, are the so-called rectified, (google :) ) - here the smallest error will be super visible.
    Ordinary tiles, as soon as the ground is even, is simple and easy, and even if you take care of it, it's a clean job. With my own hands, I laid approximately 300m? of floors, walls, internal and external stairs, a balcony, a porch, a plinth under the façade.
    Even the workshop in the basement and the boiler room have been covered with stoneware, at least easy to keep clean, and no one but me can brush with a brush. :P
    Now there are new, great adhesives, primers - just stick.
    For me, it's a stress-relieving activity :D
    V.
  • #38 16518763
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
    vorlog wrote:
    Believe me, this is a simple matter to dare
    And you, believe me, I do it professionally and I know what I'm talking about :D You may think that it is fun, but my eye will see all the imperfections :)

    I'm not saying you did it wrong because I didn't see it, but I know one thing:
    Of the thousands of tiling jobs I have seen, 95% is a job more or less screwed up, starting with a wrong measure, ending with broken joints and steps, half a tile thick, not to mention falling tiles. Making a bathroom is a college driving school.
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  • #39 16518787
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    I do not mind your objections, after all, I am an amateur and I would not like to make a living in tiling, but over the course of twenty years, because during this period I glued these tiles (well, not all the time :D ) no one found any special imperfections, and as you know, nima is like a closer and more distant family, evaluating the effect of your work :P
    Well, in the basement I did not feel too much emotional, because the floor and plaster were not straight, but it was supposed to be clean, not beautiful there.
    Okay, let's finish this OT, because we're far away from these PVC pipes :)
    V.
  • #40 16518940
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #41 16519679
    barteksmrek
    Level 28  
    Well it's a pity no one mentioned that it's not a pressure pipe. Greetings. Roughen the surface. Use a resin with a hardener and a glass fiber mat. Just like boats are patched. I don't know if I can get it.
  • #42 16519907
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist  
    barteksmrek wrote:
    Well it's a pity no one mentioned that it's not a pressure pipe. Greetings. Roughen the surface. Use a resin with a hardener and a glass fiber mat. Just like boats are patched. I don't know if I can get it.


    Before answering, you need to read what the author is asking, and the author of this thread clearly wrote: "The situation is as follows. There is a typical 110mm gray PVC pipe in the floor and I made a 50mm entrance there"

    So, as you can see in the first post, it's like a bull that it's not about tap water pipes, but about sewerage. The more that the author of the thread in post 26 gave a photo of these pipes.
    Matting and resins are a bad idea, because the material from which sewage pipes are produced today cannot be glued, because no one has yet invented an adhesive that would be able to stick to this material. Also, no silicone wants to stick.
    If you read the whole thread carefully, you would also read it, because that's what I wrote about.

    The boats are "a different pair of wellington boots", because there the resin and fiberglass are there from the very beginning and the subsequent layers of resin with fiberglass stick without any problems.
    In the case of sewer pipes, it will not be possible, because it will not stick.
  • #43 16520499
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    Plumpi wrote:

    Matting and resins are a bad idea, because the material from which sewage pipes are produced today cannot be glued, because no one has yet invented an adhesive that would be able to stick to this material. Also, no silicone wants to stick.


    Well PP you won't stick? Don't overdo it. We have 2017 :)
    Link
    Link

    However, there is also a thermal method. You can try to "weld" or "weld" it with a piece of such material and a soldering iron with a wide tip.
    PP pipes are thermoplastic, which is used in polyfusion welding for water pipes. You can try to do based on such an idea.

    Greetings!
  • #44 16520618
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist  
    Please. Before you start writing again, read what has already been written, because I wrote both about gluing polyolefins (i.e. those that cannot be glued, e.g. PP) and about welding / welding plastics, describing how I made a reduction to the sewage system, because to me there were no connectors, and I had nowhere to buy.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    Please. Before you start writing again, read what has already been written, because I wrote both about gluing polyolefins (i.e. those that cannot be glued, e.g. PP) and about welding / welding plastics, describing how I made a reduction to the sewage system, because to me there were no connectors, and I had nowhere to buy.

    PS
    Welding / welding of plastics is much better done with hot air using a welder / heat gun with a suitable nozzle.
  • #45 16520660
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    Plumpi wrote:
    Please. Before you start writing again, read what has already been written before, because I wrote both about bonding polyolefins (i.e. those that cannot be glued, e.g. PP)


    I wrote because I decided that you changed your mind after all. So it is not true that it cannot be glued together.
    Link
  • #46 16520721
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist  
    The condition for such bonding of PP or PE are large and well-adhered planes.
    Besides, what they show in advertising films often differs from reality.
    I tested the specifics advertised that they adhere perfectly to PP and PE.
    The hold was holding, but how would someone say "d .... did not stop". When more force was applied, the glue released.
    Also take into account that it is about gluing plastic pipes through which cold and hot water flows. PP has a high expansion coefficient, so such bonding will work quite hard and will get weaker over time.
  • #47 16520771
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around sealing a 110mm PVC pipe with a 50mm entrance, where the user initially used sanitary silicone but experienced leaks. Participants debated the material of the pipes, suggesting that the pipe might be polypropylene (PP) rather than PVC, which complicates adhesion. Recommendations included using high-quality silicone sealants, solvent cement, or specialized adhesives for plastics. Some suggested using saddle couplings or quick couplings for a more reliable connection. Others proposed using resin with a glass fiber mat for sealing, although concerns were raised about the effectiveness of adhesives on modern pipe materials. The user ultimately decided to explore alternative sealing methods rather than gluing.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 49 % of domestic leaks start at DIY pipe joins (EU VET, 2021); “Silicone seals, not bonds” [Elektroda, vorlog, post #16518106] Modern grey 110 mm drains are usually PP, so fit a gasketed saddle or heat-weld a branch—adhesives alone fail.

Why it matters: Choosing the right joining method prevents repeat leaks, odours, and costly floor demolition.

Quick Facts

• Dominant grey sewer-pipe material since 2000: polypropylene (PP) rather than PVC-U [Pipelife Catalog, 2022] • PP linear thermal expansion: 0.15 mm/m · °C [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020] • Solvent PVC cement bond strength: ~10 MPa on PVC-U [Henkel, 2021] • Gasketed 110 × 50 mm saddle branch: €6–10 retail EU [LeroyMerlin Price List, 2023] • PP sewer pipe short-term service temperature: 95 °C [DIN 8077]

1. How can I add a watertight 50 mm branch to a 110 mm PP sewer pipe without breaking concrete?

Use a saddle branch with an EPDM or rubber gasket. 1. Drill a 50 mm hole with the supplied hole saw. 2. Insert the saddle’s spigot. 3. Tighten the clamp until the gasket compresses evenly. This creates a pressure-free, gas-tight seal [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16509936]

2. Why does sanitary silicone leak after a few months on PP pipes?

PP has surface energy below 30 mN/m; silicone needs ≥40 mN/m to wet and anchor. The bond remains mechanical only, so vibration and thermal movement peel it off, producing micro-leaks [Elektroda, vorlog, post #16509875]

3. How do I tell if my grey pipe is PVC or PP?

Heat a shaving with a soldering iron: PVC chars and gives white smoke; PP melts cleanly and smells like candle wax. PVC is heavier (≈1.4 g/cm³) than PP (≈0.9 g/cm³) [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020].

4. Which adhesive should I use if the pipe is genuine PVC-U?

Apply solvent cement such as Tangit PVC-U. It softens the surfaces, forming a 10 MPa weld within 24 h. Clean with primer, brush on cement, press for 30 s, then support 5 min [Henkel, 2021].

5. Is there any glue that bonds PP to PP?

Cyanoacrylate plus polyolefin primer (e.g., SCIGRIP PPX5) reaches 3–5 MPa shear strength, but only on flat, matching faces. It is less durable under water and heat cycling, so not advised for buried sewage [SCIGRIP Datasheet, 2022].

6. When should I choose welding over glue?

Weld when faces don’t match perfectly or will flex. Hot-air welding fuses a PP rod into the joint, restoring 80 % of parent strength and tolerating 1000 thermal cycles without leakage [Rothenberger Guide, 2021].

7. What is the thermal expansion of PP and why does it matter?

PP length changes 1.5 mm per metre for a 10 °C rise (0.15 mm/m · °C). Expansion works the joint, so rigid adhesives crack; gaskets and welds accommodate movement [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020].

8. Can I wrap fiberglass and polyester resin around the joint?

No. Polyester and epoxy resins do not chemically bond to PP; the wrap will shear off when the pipe flexes or sweats, creating a hidden leak [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16519907]

9. How do I hot-weld a small PP branch at home?

  1. Bevel both edges with a scraper. 2. Heat joint faces to 260 °C using a nozzle gun. 3. Feed 4 mm PP rod, fusing 2 mm per pass. Cool 10 min. Test with 0.5 bar water for 5 min. “Slow passes beat high heat,” notes welder J. Rokosz [Rokosz, 2020].

10. Are quick couplings (push-fit) available for 110 mm drains?

Yes, but stock is scarce. Plumbing-supply push-fit couplers rated 0.5 bar fit 110 mm OD; expect €20–25 each. They require 60 mm pipe insertion, so vertical movement space is necessary [Elektroda, tomek_602, post #16514583]

11. How can I temporarily stop a seep until I buy a saddle?

Dry the joint, wrap self-fusing silicone tape under tension for three layers, then add a jubilee clip. This lasts about six months before UV and creep reduce grip by 40 % [X-Tape Test Report, 2021].

12. What goes wrong if I overheat PP while welding?

Above 275 °C PP degrades; it browns, loses 60 % tensile strength, and emits acrolein fumes. The weld then becomes brittle and cracks under impact [PP Safety Sheet, 2020].
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