NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

satanistik wrote:

If you confirm that sdp0301 will work, I can try to make a plate.

Ok. Plate with your layouts prepared. I am still waiting for the FFC-24 adapter for pins. If I get, I'll put together and let me know.

Unfortunately, you can not see a display with a pin that has been selected for resolution.

Well, that's not good. We will check whether it works with your system. FFC leaves more space on the board than the traditional 31-pin display. Have you ever wondered how to connect the board with the display connector without wires? Any idea? With spd0301 it is best to put 3.3 V power supply on the board and replace it all, but someone would have to design it nicely But it's probably not that easy either

Anything can be done, but it will be a double-sided PCB.

I do not even want yours to be designed one-sidedly at the outlets from and to the display. As if I did not combine. But I admit that only a few days I become acquainted with the Eagle.

Hello, I have read the whole topic but currently I do not see a solution to repair the damaged display outside the website. Maybe something has changed. Please help. I searched the network for recommended displays, but for example, ssd1303 is discontinued from sellers. I can solder and feel up to various solutions. Greetings!

satanistik wrote:

Everything has to be done, but it will be a double-sided tile.

In the end, I got my parts. The sdp0301 display can be connected, but in fact the image is inverted. The circuit made by Satanistika works.



It's a pity there's no way to put it into 132x64 mode, but the lack of lines doesn't bother you too much.
I made PCBs, but unfortunately I gave the voltage for the systems from VCC instead of VDD and I had 13V instead of 3.3V: / I had to modify the PCB a bit I need to correct this in the schematic.

Tiles ordered from China, but done very nicely


Generally, if you add a converter to the VCC to the diagram, the board can be modified so that it will be replaceable with the current one, because only VCC is missing from the 20-pin link. Then the problem of how to connect to the connector of the old display would be solved.

After all these combinations, with higher voltage treatment, the display started to behave like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ji3bN0IqFo. I think I tired it a bit or it's the soldering effect on the spider

When designing a tile with such a large amount of space, try to move away the guides from the paths, the paths themselves are worth doing as short as possible. Ogulnie I'm glad that it works.

Thank you for valuable tips. It's my beginnings with Eagle and tile design, so I'm basing on his autoroute. Now I made a diagram with a converter and adapted to a 20-pin connector. I probably mistake something again, but we'll see how tiles come. On it I just mixed up with the lengths of paths and guides I enclose the diagram. If you had a moment, maybe you will look and check. If you catch a mistake, let me know. Probably it is not perfectly ordered but it is done so quickly. The most annoying, however, is this lack of vertical lines. Atmel blocked before reading so from the software side nothing will happen. Spd0301 provides 132x64 mode, but for the disease I do not know if it is possible to force him to use this mode in hardware. ssd1303t10 had 132x64 by default and only the ability to force 128x64, and sdp0301 unlike: / I see that you have a lot of idea, so if you do not come up with anything, nobody will. Thank you for your contribution to this topic so far. Without your scheme, nothing would move, and now there is some hope for a solution There are new modules for this Nivon. If someone had one in their hands, they could check on what display they are built because I doubt that it would be an old ssd1303t10. Maybe some photos? Greetings!

I can see a high level of work progress Would it be possible to order such tiles from you? greetings

This is all the testing phase If there is something ready and tested, it will certainly appear here. You have to wait and there must be some kumaty who would like to get involved. From the side of electronic experts somehow you can not see much interest

Attach eagle files to glance, because if you have a long circuit inverter on the whole board, it may be poor.

You have attached. Eagle 9.4.0. I made 2 tile designs with different ffc. We'll see what comes out I will have plates for about 2-3 weeks. If you feel like it, you can use it calmly. I do not reserve copyright I reserve, however, that it has not been checked. They do not have to act and I am not responsible for any damage Maybe someone will modify it so that it has hands and feet

I slightly improved the board but I did not check the correctness of the scheme 100%. and even a simple version to be made using the thermo-transfer method:

Ok. Thanks. It looks more clearly than mine, but it's probably also because you've placed elements on both sides. I tried to do the pattern of the original P19702 tile, so that on one side was the laminate itself for gluing the display. I can not find a solder connector under ssd1309 in Eagle libraries. Then you could do also for the ssd displays. You probably would have to create from single pads.

The power paths should be run as thick and short as possible, the filtering capacitors 100n distant from the systems no longer have their function, they can not be soldered. The inverter can not be a tangle of wires - the generated interference can interfere with digital signals and cause unstable operation. In addition, the same use of the machine can be improved by setting the elements: It was enough here to rotate condensation. As for the placement of elements - since my monster with 2 plates of cables and glue could fit there and so 5mm of clearance was left, I do not see a problem. The board is not a matter of a clear appearance - long paths act like capacitors and coils, and here the display works on Mhz - there may be effects in the form of random disturbances, flickering or in the extreme case of crashing of the processor.

Ok. The thickness of paths may actually increase a bit. I sent tiles to do. We'll see at the ready if it works The tiles are ready, but this time I did not take a courier, so I will wait 3 weeks: / Unless I think of another project until the evening, I will do it and change it into a courier. Then they will be at the end of next week

So out of curiosity, where does a colleague order tiles? However, it is worth to play by hand because, for example, you can swap the gate entries to avoid crossing connections.

jlcpcb.com I happened by accident. There was a promotion for 2 dollars 5 tiles 10x10 and for the first order free courier DHL. In Poland, the problem with the date and price I ordered on Friday, and on Wednesday I already had my home. Added after 10 [minutes]:

satanistik wrote:

However, it is worth to play by hand because, for example, you can swap the gate entries to avoid crossing connections.

Certainly, but my contact with Eagle is only 3 weeks And so many more unknowns. You know the program more. See if there is any 31-pin soldering point in the libraries for soldering, eg ssd1309.

My advice is educational and not critical. As for the beginning I am impressed by the work you have put in, but it is worth "working on the blow" to work and learn new skills. Eagle is a good tool, but changes in licensing policy and the later cost of the program do not bode well for the future. It is worth considering something free eg KiCad. In Eagle, it's easy to create a new element, just edit the library. By adding pads with the click of the button (i) and we can enter the coordinates directly or in the GRID window, set such a pitch so that the pads move by a given distance. In addition, we can choose the size and shape of the pad here.

And so I treat your advice. I do not take them for criticism only as a valuable clue. Probably my adventure with Eagle will end with the solution of the display case. I treat it as a challenge and only your scheme prompted me to design a tile I will see the pads under ssd1309. Maybe I'll find inspiration one day Once again, thanks a lot. I'll let you know what the end result will be. That's how I was thinking about designing and the imagination failed me: / The JP1 connector should be rotated 180 degrees to fit into the original 20 pin connector. GND should be on the right side, not the left one. If the display will work on what I ordered then I will think about the corrected order. I attach the corrected Eagle files.

Mine seems to fit - the power supply is on the left in the same way as the first version that was soldered, the display connector is top-to-red so the tape should be plugged in. I wonder if it will not be twisted. Let the colleague compare the eagle print from my first version with this - the first plate was soldered to the connector.

Are you talking about this post # 134? You can solder FFC connector up, but then the problem with the display assembly because the tape will be twisted, and it is too short to do so. My assumption was to make a plate on the original pattern, i.e. with elements on one side / from below /. The connector was made of a FFC, which allows the display to be flipped over and glued to a smooth surface. The contacts on the tape are on the same side as the front of the display. Each rotation of one of the joints will rotate the other In the original, the pins look like this: In my first project, it is also possible to solder a 20-pin connector upwards, but unfortunately there is a problem with twisting the tape: / In this project and with such a layout there is no way to glue the display face forward. And with this arrangement it would be good to move the inverter to the right side of the board. Probably the simplest solution with already ordered tiles will be a crossover between 20-pin connectors.

I would not care about the elements on the side of the display - there are such sticky sponges 3m, which can compensate for this difference. There is a lot of space in this panel.

Unfortunately, I have to join the thread. The same company, the same problem .... Screen popped out so much that the machine is unusable. Will any of you have any plans to sell converted tiles for a newer driver? I do not hide that it would be a salvation

You can observe progress in the topic. Thanks to the Satanistik colleague, there is a light in the tunnel. It will not be perfect, but a tiny defect with a break does not bother you at all. What I have on a regular basis and how to check the final version I will let you know. I will not sell, because I do not have a business, but I think that if you can be patient, someone will take care of it in the end Or maybe someone has already ordered tiles and tested it let it know whether it works

Gentlemen, someone already has a subject familiar with this link. .Olx.pl / offer / repair-display-nivona-961-CID628-IDyu2Dv.html # dd1673c29f the guy claims that he exchanges the display on white. and for the electronic sauce appeared .soselectronic.pl / products / bolymin / bl-12864g-ernhn-1-52156 Do you think that it will fit? greetings

mario.kolodziejczyk wrote:

and for the electronic sauce appeared .soselectronic.pl / products / bolymin / bl-12864g-ernhn-1-52156 Do you think that it will fit? greetings

these are already other displays, they already have a different iC will not fit without conversions (convector)

Probably someone has old stocks or actually a solution already solved differently.
I am after checking my concept and it looks like this:


It is a plate with an inverted 20-pin connector. In the last project I threw tiles with a good joint setting but I have not ordered them yet. When properly set up, the electronics will be on the bottom as in the original, and the display on top. As you can see, the display must be turned over and therefore the need to reverse the JP1 connector. At the plate from this post you must reverse the connector 20 pin / cross / and it will be ok. Below in the pictures the above is the original, and below my project partly based on Satanistika scheme and praise him because without him this topic would not move.


Later, when I find a moment, I will put it all together in the post and correct it The most important thing is that it works and it is an alternative to the expensive original

mario.kolodziejczyk wrote:

Gentlemen, someone already has a familiar topic see this link
.olx.pl / offer / repair-display-NIVONA-961-CID628-IDyu2Dv.html # dd1673c29f

the guy says he exchanges the display on white.

greetings

There are more and more such offers, so it looks like the source code has been read and has been modified for the new display driver. Interesting for what Someday, he will probably see this daylight.

Have you seen this post with 74lsxx layouts from this link? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replac...lent-u1253a-multimeter/msg2429577/#msg2429577 I do not know what display the visitor has used, but there is no interruption in the vertical lines. What do you think? Is this a matter of a particular display, or is it better suited for lines according to this scheme and is it ok? I'm bad English, so I will probably not get along with him

I am glad that the project begins to live its life. I attach a revised plate with an inverted joint and elements from one side. As for the break - it does not have to be a matter of display only the control method used in the meter. The espresso on each line addresses the new one using a special command, but there are several other modes.