NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

First I would like to apologize for not using Polish. I hope someone can understand my english.

I am amazed at the ingenuity here. Brillant. I also have a problem with my Nivona Display starting to dim, and would like to fix it before I can no longer brew my coffee. I have no problem disassembling my machine, and soldering components. But to actually design a new PCB is something I would not be able to do.
Would I be correct in stating the following:
To fix the display first I need to get the PCB designed by Satanistik in post #173 printed and delivered to me. Is this as simple as uploading the .rar file?
I also need to order a LCD SPD0301 display with a 24 pin socket for this PCB. Any recommended websites?
Then I need to de-solder the old display, and the original solid wires, from the Nivona PCB.
And then using small wires, solder the new Satanistik PCB, with attached LCD, onto the original Nivona PCB. Do the wires line up Pin1 to Pin1, and so on, or is there a new wiring order?
And then reassemble

Thank you for helping me.

Dodano po 34 [sekundy]:

Hello
I already have boards, but I can't find the ffp 31 connector. LCD will be next week.

There is no connector. The display is soldered directly to the board. Based on the connector were only designed pads on the board and therefore appears in the list of elements The connector is only for the 24 pin spd0301 version.

I found the connector in the elf for 3.80 PLN Omron, but the shipment 45 PLN
I know soldered, however, I wanted to make a removable display. Just in case. And stress is eliminated with soldering the tape.

In those from aliexpress you can see that the foil is probably full on the whole soldering pad, so it may work, but risky In the case of the original SSD1303t10, I am afraid that these foil paths in the display would get rid of when the connector is fastened. If the foil was full, it was different, and there were gaps between the pads.
It seems to me that after replacing with a new display it will be until the end of life of the espresso machine, so that I would not go too far with searching In the meantime, there may be a better project where there will be no problem with the lack of lines, so there will be an opportunity to replace Unless these displays will be lit without error.

Here is the 30-pin ZIFF plug. https://www.conrad.de/de/p/wuerth-elektronik-...-rastermass-1-mm-68613014122-1-st-708985.html

There is a different supply voltage in this SSD1305z ??
The second thing is that looking at the tape, the tracks are differently distributed from SSD1305, unless the photos are illustrative.

The track layout overlaps. As for the location of the paths, do not look at the picture from the top, but from the bottom of the display, because the paths go to the other side. On the upper side they give the impression that they are going to points that should be NC. See specification in the description. What really comes will be seen

stueymc wrote:

I am amazed at the ingenuity here. I also have a problem that my Nivon display is starting to dim and I would like to fix it before I can make coffee. I have no problem with dismantling the machine and soldering the elements. But designing a new tile is something I wouldn't be able to do.
Would I be right to say that:
To fix the display first, I need to print and provide a PCB designed by Satanistik in post # 173. Is it as simple as uploading a .rar file?
I also need to order the SPD0301 LCD display with a 24-pin socket for this circuit board. Any recommended websites?
Then I have to desolder the old display and the original solid wires from the Nivon circuit board.
And then, using small wires, solder the new Satanistik PCB with attached LCD display to the original Nivon printed circuit board. Are the wires aligned in Pin1 to Pin1 etc. Is the wiring in new order?
And then assemble

Thank you for your help.

All you have to do is solder the entire Satanistika board and replace it later by replacing it with the original one. No cables needed. The board fits into a 20 pin connector. After disassembling the display, you'll see what's going on. To order a tile, you need gerber files. I enclose a ready zip with gerber files. For example, go to https://jlcpcb.com/ and select "Quote now" and choose "add your gerber file", then pointing to the file spd0301_satanistik.zip. Everything will complement itself. Pins come out 1 to 1.
This is the display on the Satanistika board on spd0301.

Hello, I've already completed all the elements. The LCD has a thin tape so I won't use the connector. I'll let you know when I mount it on Nivona.

I work on SSD1305 and the content is not flashing, there are no errors. When I finish the project, I will attach photos. My goal is to solder the circuit on the goldpin board, cut two goldpins and solder the two wires. It all took 15 minutes to open the display.
Regards, Łukasz

SSD1305, the one we ordered recently on aliexpress, listed several posts above. I also ordered and arrived to me. I don't have much time, but if I find a moment tomorrow, maybe I will solder. If this is the original SSD1305, then as I mentioned earlier, there is no line problem.



I don't know what layout you use and I will gladly watch it. However, I am afraid that if you do not use the delay on WR, as Satanistik reported, then sometimes the display may not turn on, because it will not surprise This happened to me when using sst39vf040.

Yes, it's about SSD1305, I corrected the typo, no, there will be no problem with the display hanging, there is a correction for this ailment. When I have it ready I will show it (I have to finish the tile yet).

And great. I don't need it anymore, because I use my own tile design for my own needs, but I'd like to test it out of curiosity. SSD1305 is nice, but there is no problem with the lines. The most important thing is that the one from aliexpress is actually on 1305, because once I bought what was supposed to be 1305, or rather turned out to be 1309. Congratulations and I look forward to materials.

Ok, today I found a moment to put everything together. I can confirm that this display from aliexpress has no line missing error. After applying the reversal scheme based on the Satanistika design, it works like the original

It looks great and also professionally soldered.
Congratulations

Hello everyone, my display has also stopped working I am glad that the topic has been resolved so well and congratulations. I have already ordered the display from the link from the post above, entry # 177, from ALIEXPRESS, but I have no experience with PCBs (until now I did them myself). I am asking you for help: where is the best to order and what board files do I need for this display? Or maybe some of you have such a plate in excess and can sell it?
PS I can see that the sales of displays from the link are increasing every day.

As for ordering tiles, the topic was e.g. a few posts above, post (# 189). For 5 tiles comes out $ 2 + shipping probably about $ 6. Everything is comprehensively described in the subject. The only other thing I can add is to fit the old place into the plastic stand, it is best to make indentations in it in places marked in red. After applying, you will see how much to choose.



Well, just to complete the following described location of elements whose markings can not be seen on the PCB, and a list.

1 1X20 JP1
3 100nF C-0402 C1, C2, C3 NON-POLARIZED FILM / CHIP
1 10uH L4532P L1 INDUCTOR, European symbol
1 120k R0603 R4 RESISTOR, European symbol
2 1M R0603 R5, R6 RESISTOR, European symbol
1 22pF C-0603 C5 NON-POLARIZED FILM / CHIP
2 4.7uF C3216 C4, C10 CAPACITOR, European symbol
3 4.7uF C-0603 C7, C8, C9 NON-POLARIZED FILM / CHIP
1 4071D SO14 IC1 Quad 2-input OR
1 4078D SO14 IC2 8-input NOR
1 74AHC1G00DBV SOT23-5 IC3 2-input NAND gate
1 MBR0530 SOD123 D1 DIODE
1 TPS61045DRBR U1 SON-8 TEXAS INSTRUMENTS

L1, D1 and U1 can be used from an old board. I suggest not to mount C2 under the display. Its absence has no effect on the operation and can cause pressure on the display at this point. Tightening the screws too much later may break. Better safe than sorry Without it, the display sits evenly over the entire surface.

Amigos, what caused the low voltage inverter?

I figured out the paths that power the inverter. However, they were too thin in the previous design and the inverter was unstable. I corrected the board and made thicker paths, which can be seen in the pictures. The problem is gone.

Hello
I will buy a SSD1305 board and display if anyone has to sell.

@amigos, I understand that you have red markings for insertion in this plastic frame. If you can handle these cutouts, these pcb are quite thick. I am thinking of buying a 32 pin connector with ali 1 mm pitch and just solder one pin, but again a month of waiting ...

Yes. These are indents to leave this plastic spacer (distance) between the display and the control board.
Here you can see these cutouts more precisely



On stubborn you can break these elements in the spacer. I do these indentations in a Dremelem plate with a shield.
I understand your concerns about soldering the display due to the foil, but I assure you that it is much easier than soldering the pins of the fpc connector with 0.5 pitch If someone has not done it before, I suggest taking any other connector with such a raster and checking out
Possible desoldering of such a display so as not to damage the tape and not break the paths in it is a justified fear, but here there is no such situation.

But the SSD1305 raster is 1.0, not 0.5, for someone who is not soldered without the right tools, it seems to me that it is better to install this connector if you need to disconnect the display. The biggest challenge for me, from what I see, will be the TPS61045 chip and I think I will have to get some of the cheapest hotair. For now I'm waiting for parts.

You're right 0.1. I suggested a connector to spd0301. I don't know why it would be necessary to disconnect the display from the board Previous defects lasted after 6-7 years. I doubt you will ever need to take it off, but your will. In my opinion, pads on the tape are not suitable for connectors. Soldering the display tape takes 2-3 minutes and practically everyone will do it. You probably won't melt the foil with a soldering iron if you have a clue about soldering, although different people can do wonders It is worth trying to drag the tin over the old pads to check it. By desoldering damaged you don't risk anything. And so you can damage it without consequences, unless you rip the pads on the plate. I'd sooner focus on replacing the 20-pin connector with pin connectors. TPS without a hotair will rather be difficult to solder, although it is feasible. You need some good chemistry.

I will add something I found on the SSD1305Z controller, 6 colors to choose from.
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ERR9ALZn9
https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/33041548168.ht...ess.com/item/33041548168/33041548168.html?mb= ObVJ0j9MRmLG1zQ & aff_platform = default & cpt = 1575369858917 & sk = ERR9ALZn9 & aff_trace_key = d82c82003a22456987ca3664f9a0c79d-1575369858917-06585-ERR9ALZn9 & businessType = ProductDetail & templateId = white_backgroup_101 & platforms = AE = & TERMINAL_ID 27272795dd504b3883ea57074fcede9e

I bought it and it works.

What is the distance between the pins in JP1? 2.54?
I don't have pcb with me, so maybe someone will write quickly. Thx in advance

Yes, 2.54 mm pitch.

I used a 1x20 pin female socket with a height of 8.5 mm and solder it to the board with control. I solder pins with a total length of 12 mm into the display board. The set fits perfectly. The original pins (without a socket) have a total height of 18 mm. 2.54 mm pitch, of course. I give it because it may be useful to someone and prefers to buy new instead of bother desoldering from the original