How to avoid a short circuit when connecting the PK-1P relay to the gate?

Hello,

I have connected a 230v socket (which I control from another device ) to a relay, the relay to the gate, in order to control it (by closing the circuit)
Attached is a diagram of how I connected this.
The relay is ELECTROMAGNETIC RELAY 16A 230V F&F PK-1P
The way it works is that the socket gives voltage to the relay for a fraction of a second, the relay closes the circuit.

After connecting everything worked fine, I made about 10 attempts, the gate opened and closed.
After a couple of hours, I switched the socket on again (applied voltage) and the door started to open for about 1-2 seconds, and then the plugs blew - but not from the socket, but from the power supply to which the intercoms are connected.
I dismantled the installation and fortunately nothing was broken, but I'm already afraid to carry out further tests.

I am asking more experienced people to help me with what I might have done wrong. I think I have wired this simple diagram correctly.
The only "problem" I've noticed with the socket is that sometimes, due to an error, the socket gives voltage for more than a fraction of a second e.g. 1-5 seconds (the solution could be a timer relay) but this is probably not a problem as it sort of mimics a longer button press and nothing happens then.

Or maybe the relay itself is weak and it transmitted 230v? Is this possible ?
The relay is an ELECTROMAGNETIC RELAY 16A 230V F&F PK-1P
Thank you for your help

And could you draw a diagram of how you wired it, as it doesn't show much from this block diagram. I understand that you are applying voltages to the coil of the relay, and that this contact short circuits the circuit in the control panel and what is the control panel .

rozx wrote:

After connecting everything worked fine, I made about 10 attempts, the gate opened and closed.

.
What is this gate drive?
And here is the reason probably for this failure. DTR.
The contact load value indicated on the device refers to resistive loads (non-inductive loads for which the power factor parameter is 1 (cosφ=1)).
Switching inductive or capacitive loads (e.g. motors, switching power supplies, etc.) leads to a significant reduction in contact life, e.g. a load for which cosφ=0.5 results in a reduction in life (number of switching cycles) of 20%, and for cosφ=0.25 even of 50%.
.

If I'm reading this schematic correctly, the relay contact operates virtually currentless, as it only controls the drive control panel input - so there can't be any contact burnout here (by the way, even if by some miracle it did burn out, it would either be a break or shorted permanently, but neither of the above would blow the plugs. Only a contact-coil puncture, but I doubt it). I understand that the two pads described as "intercom" are outputs to the solenoid lock.... The only thing I can think of is that these intercom outputs are not regular potential-free contacts, but feeding power to the bolt. Have you checked them?

In the diagram I drew, the connection to the intercom is also a 24v cable. On the intercoms I have a mechanical button which I use to close the circuit.
I have also noticed that the gate opening indicator bulb has burned out after the fault....
The gate motor is NICE.
As far as the relay connection is concerned, I have connected 230v to contacts 1,3 and on the other side 11,12 cables (order doesn't matter I guess) which go to the gate.
If any more info is needed let me know then I'll tell you. I still don't understand what could have caused the failure....

Where is the power supply to this 230VAC socket coming from?
From the gate circuits?
Schematic inaccurate.

My impression is that the relay had nothing to do with it - simply a failure of the gate drive

The power supply to the socket is from a different circuit to the gate.
Gate failure - it would be suspiciously strange for it to happen just then. This has never happened

rozx wrote:

the gate started to open for about 1-2 seconds, then the plugs blew - but not from the socket but from the power supply to which the intercoms are connected.

.
Are the gate and the intercoms on the same circuit ?

Yes, on the same one.
To this one fuse is connected the gate drive, the power supply for the intercoms nothing else

rozx wrote:

In the diagram I drew, the connection to the intercom is also a 24v cable. On intercoms I have a mechanical button with which I close the circuit....

.
Well rather it is a mechanical contact, 24v cable.... - are you specifying its breakdown voltage here or what? .
I asked if the intercom puts voltage on this output to the deadbolt, or if it is potential free. Check it out!

I apologise if we do not understand each other
It seems to me that this diagram may be misleading. What is labelled as an intercom in the drawing is actually an intercom but it only contains the button I use to open and close the gate.

The other options of the intercom (voice, deadbolt for the gate, etc.) are routed via separate cables. So what is labelled as an intercom in the diagram could be seen as an independent, additional button to open /close the gate that has no connection to the intercom.

I would also add that the voltage on the gate drive output is 24v, and closing this circuit opens/closes the gate

And it still made me realise that the cause of the jams blowing out was not likely to be a voltage spike in the domfomn power supply, as I wrote earlier, but on the gate drive.... I still don't know why though

rozx wrote:

I have also noticed that after the failure, the signal bulb for opening the gate burnt out....
I still don't understand what could have caused the failure...

In my opinion this is the cause of the fuse tripping. Just a coincidence, a burned out bulb caused a short circuit.

alster1 wrote:

Just a coincidence, a burned out bulb caused a short circuit.

Is the bulb in the lamp on 230V ?

This is the case at 230

It depends on the lamp and the drive, I have a Faac on 230V. The bulbs often die from the vibration of the gate, it happened to me that a bulb just made a short circuit.

rozx wrote:

Yes it is at 230

.

alster1 wrote:

Bulbs often die from gate vibration, it happened to me that just a bulb made a short circuit.

.
And it's all clear.

Thank you for your advice,

Of course it could have been the bulb (and that would be the best) but it seems strange to me that it's ok all year round and just on this day, an hour after the relay was installed it breaks down....
Well... I guess there is no other idea for now....