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[Solved] Painting Tips: Avoiding Paint Peeling When Removing Painter's Tape in Room Corners

minimaxi 20400 44
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  • #31 18683732
    adriank90
    Level 1  
    Hello, I have a question about getting rid of dried paint stains on the wall. After painting, there were visible thickenings of the paint, I tried to sand with p130 sandpaper, but it seems to me that I am even worried about it .. Should I get rid of it before the next layer of paint? with water-based paper?
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  • #32 18683837
    krisRaba
    Level 31  
    I do not know what paint and what kind of thickenings, but for example on Dulux there are some stains, lint from a roller stuck with paint, etc. ;-) But it works when the rest of the plane is on the right plane and the "intruder" isn't too big. Flexible spatula bent into a banana so that the sharp part glides along the plane of the wall ;-)
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  • #33 18699896
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    adriank90 wrote:
    Hello, I have a question about getting rid of dried paint stains on the wall. After painting, there were visible thickenings of the paint, I tried to sand with p130 sandpaper, but it seems to me that I am even worried about it .. Should I get rid of it before the next layer of paint? with water-based paper?

    And in the title you wrote: "Painting and tearing off the painter's tape". So I ask what was the painter's tape doing there? And what was she like? Yellow or blue? How long? What paint did you paint?

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    krisRaba wrote:
    some stains, lint from the roller stuck with paint, etc. I had fun coming down with a sharp stainless steel spatula

    This is how you do it for bigger things. It's a pity we don't have photos of what needs fixing.
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  • #34 18699985
    krisRaba
    Level 31  
    retrofood wrote:
    This is how you do it for bigger things. It's a pity we don't have photos of what needs fixing.

    So I invented the wheel anew :lol: :-D But it's important that it works :-)
  • #35 18700085
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    krisRaba wrote:
    retrofood wrote:
    This is how you do it for bigger things. It's a pity we don't have photos of what needs fixing.

    So I invented the wheel anew :lol: :-D But it's important that it works :-)

    Because you don't need a great philosophy here. :D I remember in the 90s of the last century I became a gastarbaiter in an Austrian construction company as a painter and wallpaper maker. And I was undergoing initial training. Throughout his period, I thought "wear a hen, I tried it all in my apartment, and now you are discovering it to me ..."
    But the equipment was three classes better than what we had at the time, and I was working on finishing a five-star hotel. For almost five months. Wallpapering and painting. Every day for 12 hours, except Sundays.
  • #36 18700223
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    Usually, when painting, I use ordinary, yellow tape, it is important that it is relatively fresh - if it lies for too long, especially in a humid environment, it is better to throw it away. Tearing off the last layer of paint, like the paint is still wet - gently, at an angle and I have never had any cavities.
    Another thing - before painting, either driving with paint soap or priming with diluted primer (CT17 works best for me)
    V.
  • #37 18700491
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    vorlog wrote:
    Usually, when painting, I use ordinary, yellow tape, it is important that it is relatively fresh - if it lies for too long, especially in a humid environment, it is better to throw it away.

    It sounds more or less like telling a teenage girl not to react to the different looks of boys at the disco. :D
    Unfortunately, yellow is cheaper and in demand, and is often kept on the wall for too long. However, if necessary, when the painter does not have a safe hand, I recommend the blue one. It causes less damage when peeled off, although it costs a few zlotys more. But worth.
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  • #38 18700632
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    You see, it's like with everything - everyone does what he or she can, what has been tried and tested.
    I also used the blue one, but to be honest I did not feel any special difference.
    The question of those few zlotys? Certainly not. When doing renovation in the cottage, I do not count pennies, it is a waste of time. When counting the cost of, for example, repainting a living room, where there is 5-8 liters of good paint, two rollers (separate for different colors, it is a pity to bother with washing), micro-rollers or two, some brushes (not the cheap ones that sprinkle with lint like a shedding goat) , the ground, these two rolls of tape are a trifle, and will they cost a total of 10 or 20 zlotys?
    In general, I am a geek of all types of tools, aids (rulers, squares, rulers), not necessarily top-shelf, which results in the fact that after each renovation I have all kinds of screws, drills, bits, also sometimes a manual milling machine, another grinder :)
    It was probably some kind of psychosis from the old, lean years, when nothing fell into the cottage easily, and I was disgusted with loans.
    This has its advantages - I am able to remove any breakdown in the house at any time or add a fragment of an installation, I have some materials in every field, from wires to gutter sections ...
    V.
  • #39 18700635
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    vorlog wrote:
    You see, it's like with everything - everyone does what he or she can, what has been tried and tested.
    I also used the blue one, but to be honest I did not feel any special difference.
    The question of those few zlotys? Certainly not. When doing a renovation in a cottage, I do not count pennies, it is a waste of time. When counting the cost of, for example, repainting a living room, where there is 5-8 liters of good paint, two rollers (separate for different colors, it is a pity to bother with washing), micro-rollers or two, some brushes (not the cheap ones that sprinkle with lint like a shedding goat) , the ground, these two rolls of tape are a trifle, and will they cost a total of 10 or 20 zlotys?
    In general, I am a geek of all types of tools, aids (rulers, squares, rulers), not necessarily top-shelf, which results in the fact that after each renovation I have all kinds of screws, drills, bits, also sometimes a manual milling machine, another grinder :)
    It was probably some kind of psychosis from the old, lean years, when nothing fell into the cottage easily, and I was disgusted with loans.
    This has its advantages - I am able to remove any failure in the house at any time or add a fragment of an installation, I have some materials in every field, from wires to gutter sections ...
    V.


    Well, a generation of those who had to! :D Gimbuses do not get it ...
  • #40 18700847
    Mierzejewski46
    Level 37  
    vorlog wrote:
    In general, I am a geek of all types of tools, aids (rulers, squares, rulers), not necessarily top-shelf, which results in the fact that after each renovation I have all kinds of screws, drills, bits, also sometimes a manual milling machine, another grinder

    Because you are a good specialist. You like to have everything "at hand". And in the past and today, a good foreman will get to know the tools, maybe not necessarily from the top shelf, but what the need is, he has. Efficient and tidy.
  • #41 18714891
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Mierzejewski46 wrote:
    vorlog wrote:
    In general, I am a geek of all types of tools, aids (rulers, squares, rulers), not necessarily top-shelf, which results in the fact that after each renovation I have all kinds of screws, drills, bits, also sometimes a manual milling machine, another grinder

    Because you are a good specialist. You like to have everything "at hand". And in the past and today, a good foreman will get to know the tools, maybe not necessarily from the top shelf, but what the need is, he has. Efficient and tidy.

    Gentlemen, because even in the old, rough times, when theoretically there was nothing, we had to arrange our lives somehow. And take care of what you've got.
    My first job was "the position" of an office machinery mechanic and in this company I saw (among other things) what a device for installing cotter pins looks like. You won't even google it, and it's a wonderful tool. Invented in the workshop, but the workshop is dead.
  • #42 18718626
    Mierzejewski46
    Level 37  
    Now I had a good example of tearing off painter's tape. I had a room at a friend's. She painted the ceiling white and cut it off the wall with Tesa blue tape. After painting the walls, she removed the tape together with the white paint and here and there the plaster from the ceiling. The poor one cried. And I told her to buy only the blue dolpin, but how the woman forgot the name. The trail would be it. I'm going to correct it tomorrow.
  • #43 18719496
    minimaxi
    Level 15  
    Mierzejewski46 -no buddy, tell me how do you improve it? Because I am starting it for 5 months, I am afraid that the colors will not match anymore :( I am going to fill the gaps with a ready-made paint putty - you will be OK?
  • #44 18719570
    Mierzejewski46
    Level 37  
    Already corrected this morning. What I was plastering franspol gs-2. Fortunately, the paint was painted yesterday. I'll make up myself tomorrow. Today's paints don't fade that fast, so you might be able to do it without any major patches. But I asked you to wait for 4 days to let the parish harden, then it did not use it, but it did it in its own way. Generally, I avoid taping to cut corners. I stick the metal sheet with tape and from it I use the colors.
  • #45 18723342
    minimaxi
    Level 15  
    as above in the discussion
    1. Well-primed substrate and blue Dolpin tape + skilful pulling down - as in the sketch.
    2. Either tapeless, with the help of:
    -shaft cut-off -according to me more difficult and not in the corner
    - cut off in the corner with a longer inox trowel

Topic summary

The discussion centers around techniques to prevent paint peeling when removing painter's tape in room corners. Users emphasize the importance of surface preparation, including washing and drying, and suggest using painter's tape with weaker adhesive to minimize damage. Techniques for removing tape include pulling it down against the wall rather than towards oneself to reduce the risk of taking paint with it. Some recommend applying a thin layer of acrylic over the tape edge to prevent paint from seeping underneath. The timing of tape removal is also crucial; it should be done immediately after painting while the paint is still wet. Various brands of painter's tape are mentioned, with a preference for blue tape due to its lower risk of peeling paint. Users also discuss the use of cut-off rollers and brushes for achieving clean edges without tape.
Summary generated by the language model.
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