[Solved] Painting Tips: Avoiding Paint Peeling When Removing Painter's Tape in Room Corners

I had to refresh the room myself recently, it went well apart from taking the tape off. The tape placed on the ceiling while peeling off in each corner broke my paint and I have to make minor corrections.

Do you have any way for the horns? It is possible that I put too much paint there, because it did not want to squeeze into the corners and it was wet, it did not have time to dry. B. I am asking for your experiences.

Washing and drying surfaces before painting. Then it will bind well with the substrate. Tape for painting purposes. They have weak glue and the paint does not cling as much. Maybe it didn't dry well in the corners.

I am not a painting specialist there, but I had to train a little while refreshing the apartment.

Direction is very important when tearing off the tape. You should definitely not pull it towards you, perpendicular to the wall, because then the tear-off force is from the wall, which makes it easier to take looser parts of the coating with you.
The technique recommended by several people on YT, that you pull the tape down, against the wall, worked quite well for me. Then a tape kink is formed at the point of tearing, and the forces act a little differently. It seems to me that then a possible element that is a candidate for detachment can rest against the material below.



Of course, if the coating is poor and not sticking at all, this technique may not help either.

Hello.
From my knowledge and a bit of experience.
After sticking the tape, cover its edge with a thin layer of acrylic (this prevents the paint from sinking under the tape and ensures that the two colors are accurately cut off). The tape should be torn off immediately after painting (do not wait for it to dry)
That's all I have to say.

What does it mean we cover the edge with a thin layer of acrylic? Can you describe it explain?

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As for picking up immediately after painting, so that the paint does not dry out. What if we paint a second or third time? The previous layers will dry.

bumble wrote:

What does it mean we cover the edge with a thin layer of acrylic?

The surface of the wall (ceiling) is not perfectly smooth. When painting it, always flecks of paint will fall into these gaps and as a result (cutting off two colors is not perfect). Covering this edge with acrylic results in a "perfect" cut-off of these colors, without the effect of serrations.
As for the next question, I think right after putting the last layer on.

If you put acrylic on the wall, if the paint adheres to it, where the tape meets the wall. What to apply it with? The paint is so dense that it certainly does not disappear into the pores under the tape.

bumble wrote:

The paint is so dense that it certainly does not disappear into the pores under the tape.

Check and see for yourself.

bumble wrote:

If you put acrylic on the wall, if the paint sticks to it

Acrylic can be painted (different with silicone)

I painted more than once. There was no such problem. Tearing off a piece of paint happens, especially when we paint over old coatings. Touch-ups are inevitable anyway.

How much depends on the perfect cut is a special tape where the glue is applied deoma with narrow stripes, not the whole. A bit expensive, but great. As I remind you, I will give it.

The ceiling is painted and then the ceiling and walls are cut off with a cut-off roller. The one with the plastic resistance, not the metal one, because the metal on the ceiling lubricates the lines. Pure pleasure with no surprises with the tapes. Which are either too weak or too strong. How not to pick them and stick them, they will always make some linden. Even if the wall has an uneven edge, the roller cuts a few mm below the ceiling and no unevenness is visible.

And how, buddy, the round shaft reaches the corner between the wall and the ceiling, because I can't imagine it.

This is what this roller looks like

As for the next painting, I was freshly tearing off the tape and then gluing it a second time. After all, this is a moment at the ceiling. I cut off the width of the selected tape.
In addition, after the first unpleasant experiences in one room, I came to the conclusion that it is worth cutting the color the other way. Repainting it is simple, because you already have a line as a pattern .. Well, unless there was a lime tree before
Works a bit more, but in my case, despite painting the walls with good latex paint, it did not want to cover up the excess of white paint and the ceiling nicely ... Hence, in the next room I cut off the wall first by painting the ceiling, and then the ceiling by painting the wall. Thanks to this, it went without problems with the covering, as in the first room
Only my tape technique goes for kilometers, hahaha

What was that tape? Color.
The blue one should not peel off the paint, and if it does, the substrate was poorly prepared.

Only the blue one is 5x more expensive

krisRaba wrote:

Only the blue one is 5x more expensive

That's why it's more expensive. Either fish or an aquarium.

PLN 10 is still cheap. A good blue tape costs 18 and even 24 PLN. Better to spend 3 dime on a cut-off shaft.

And preferably a painter. The tape should be with a very light sticking adhesive. It has to be painterly. He must write so. For me it is so translucent. But when I was buying a different one, it's lame. If you try to stick to your finger, it should come off by itself. I always wait for the paint to dry.

elektronik68 wrote:

retrofood wrote:

krisRaba wrote:

Only the blue one is 5x more expensive

That's why it's more expensive. Either fish or an aquarium.

Well, because this is a version for people with willingness and ambition, who want to do a decent job, not screw it up and then improve it every now and then. There is one rule: you are either doing expensive, slow and neat, or cheap, fast and at the same time defeating !!! That is why I advise against playing wall painting with cheap tapes, although I am frugal, I prefer to spend more here.

I don't know there, for me the cheap tape from Leroya and Casto worked well in combination with the technique I wrote about, gluing it to a dry surface and tearing it off immediately after painting. However, I also bought in a nearby paint store and this one was much worse, because it came off some surfaces by itself.
Don't get too overwhelmed with those exclamation points, bolds, and partitions. Half the world is doing on this cheap tape and somehow they are coping. They introduced these color tapes relatively recently, and somehow the world also existed before.
If someone wants to buy one, let him buy it. I use a lot of tape, so it was a pity, and the effect is still very good. So there are more factors needed for success, not just a magic tape.

One thing I have to admit about the dark tape is that you can see the cut-off edge much better during the work. Because if you have bright colors and a white ceiling, you cannot fully see how it is arranged after gluing.

krisRaba wrote:

I don't know there, for me the cheap tape from Leroya and Casto worked well in combination with the technique I wrote about, gluing it to a dry surface and tearing it off immediately after painting. However, I also bought in a nearby paint store and this one was much worse, because it came off some surfaces by itself.

Because it is like that. You can play with the yellow tape, but firstly, it can't be old, it's off, and secondly, you can't keep it on the wall for a long time. We paint and then we tear it off the wall. Then the losses are the smallest or none at all.

And it's best not to use the tape at all. I used to be a gastarbeiter in an Austrian company and we painted hotel rooms (5-star hotel). The use of tape was prohibited. If someone couldn't draw a straight line with a brush in a circle, they threw him out.

Ha ha and that's probably why only our people painted there. After the bottle, a simple line in a circle is a piece of cake for a Pole ? I use tapes there and I paint once a year at least. Or, more often, when people change their apartments. Somehow I have no problem with that. The cheapest tape, but the painter's one and it's a ride. Lord, come out extra. Fly does not sit. (They are not here)

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If someone did not understand the joke above, let him not report the post because it is such a joke post and recently I got a warning for a joke because this is a serious forum.

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Seriously, it's a tape and a small brush and a lot of time to play and when we get out of the nooks and crannies, it will fly down the hill. I have wallpaper on my mind and I think I will try on one wall after Christmas, but I'm afraid that the sweat with painting may be a problem if I don't like it. What do you think.

And try not to tear the tape of a freshly painted car. It is on the second day that it goes beautifully with the end of the varnish.

I don't know if it's a matter of practice or patience, maybe both at the same time, but I can cut colors faster without tape, just with a round cut-off brush.
the technique of cutting off with a brush is to have a constant amount of paint, not too much and not too little, on the hair of the brush that adheres to the wall, and this is what the round shape of the brush serves. Simply, while cutting off, you have to slightly rotate the brush in your fingers so that more and more brush hair with the right amount of paint adheres to the wall at the cut-off point. it could be described as rolling a circular brush over a wall with a very high slide.
It's like riding a bike, you learn once and never forget.

From pre-Christmas practices I will say that:
1. much easier to cut off with tape on the wall, and something else in the corner, by putting the tape on the ceiling - the horns have uneven grip
2.I tried blue and yellow with OBI tape - the yellow one was easier to detach, but it was easier to taste with the paint while making cloves
3rd idea in my opinion cocapetyl with acrylic is good for airtightness but i need some practice. Surely then you can use a weaker tape, but what?
4. Removing the tape after the 1st painting and re-gluing before the 2nd is probably not the best idea, because twice the chance of messing up the job. There are just places in the corners that are less connected with plaster, maybe not primed, etc.

And if it has already broken down to the plaster, what do you do? Level the damage, ground and putty from the bucket or otherwise?

There are little tubes with putty for such small patches and cracks. There is also a slightly denser version with a note "repair" on thicker topics, but in my case it wasn't white anymore, so painting twice was also bowing. The one for minor corrections is convenient to apply and can be later sanded with an abrasive sponge and painted. Interestingly, when I gave the ground for it, the first layer broke through, and it was supposed to be better than without the ground In another place, it was dusted to the damp and without soil, it covered the first time ;-)

Generally, if you already know that there is linden in some place, because you have a chafing layer that is just waiting to fly away, it is better to scrape it off, correct it with the said tube, smooth it and have peace of mind for the next 5 painting ;-)

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I think I had one ... https://m.leroymerlin.pl/farby/przygotowanie-...na-elastyczna-160-g-dragon,p444430,l3069.html