Ariston Genus One System: Addressing Gas Boiler Errors 501,504,309,5p3 After Replacing Parts

Всем доброго времени суток.
Заранее извиняюсь, что буду писать на русском языке.
У меня котёл Ariston Genus One System 24.
3 месяца искал решения проблемы ошибок 5p3, 5p6, 501, и у меня нашлось решение, которое может помочь кому ещё.
Сразу хочу сказать, что эта очень хорошая ветка на форуме elektroda.com, здесь очень много грамотной технической информации касаемо решения ошибок 5p3, 5p6, 501.
В моем случае были испробованы все сказанные на форуме варианты решения проблемы:
1. Чистил и поменял на новую свечу ионизации (электрод розжига).
2. Разбирал, чистил и тестировал клапан управления горелкой. В итоге тоже заменил на новый.
3. Замена аварийного реле Omron на Panasonic.
4. Перепаивал конденсатор между реле и разъёмом управления клапаном.

5. Добавлял конденсаторы параллельно пинам 1-3 и 2-4 на управление клапаном горелки. Кстати, клапан питается не по 12V, а по 28V (среднеквадратичным ШИМ -сигналом).
Кланам EV1 постоянный ШИМ.

EV2 модулируемый ШИМ, скважность меняется в зависимости от нагрузки.

6. Подпаивал RC цепочку на 93c46 eeprom, сигнал действительно стал красивее.
До подпайки RC-цепочки

и многое другое…….

Все эти манипуляции давали результат только на короткое время. В конечном итоге оставалось – замена платы управления на новую (300$), что было не очень приятным событием.

Помочь найти причину помог тепловизор. С его помощью была замечена повышенная температура резисторов, около 70°С (R5, R6, R8)

А с помощью микроскопа найдена и причина повышенной температуры (плохой контакт – трещина пайки).


Пропаяв заново эти резисторы и рядом стоящие, котёл Ariston Genus One System 24 уже 2 месяца ведёт себя отлично (не одной ошибки). После пайки этих резисторов с платы управления была удалена вся дополнительная конденсаторы и резисторы, добавленные ранее (также удалены и с памяти 93c46) и выполнена автоматическая калибровка клапана горелки.
Пока 2 месяца полёт нормальный (в журнале неисправностей котла: аварийных предупреждений – 0, ошибок - 0).
Всем удачи!

>>19995302 If there is photovoltaics in your neighbourhood or at your place then you need to connect the boiler via a voltage stabiliser . These boards are sensitive to a momentary increase in voltage .

alucardorhellsing wrote:

А с помощью микроскопа найдена и причина повышенной температуры (плохой контакт – трещина пайки).

Пропаяв заново эти резисторы и рядом стоящие, котёл Ariston Genus One System 24 уже 2 месяца ведёт себя отлично (не одной ошибки). После пайки этих резисторов с платы управления была удалена вся дополнительная конденсаторы и резисторы, добавленные ранее (также удалены и с памяти 93c46) и выполнена автоматическая калибровка клапана горелки.
Пока 2 месяца полёт нормальный (в журнале неисправностей котла: аварийных предупреждений – 0, ошибок - 0).
Всем удачи!

Yes, it seems to be a general problem, with cold soldering on the resistors indicated above. After I redid the soldering on another boiler that had the same problems, it worked without problems. I can confirm that it is the most likely cause of failure of this type of boiler. The new revisions of the electronics have through-hole resistors to fix this weak point.

There is another option to solve the problem with the Genus One boiler once and for all, the conversion of the boiler to the Clas One model. For such an operation we need an electronic module and a gas valve. And the problem will be solved once and for all or such a kit :
https://www.serwisariston.pl/zestaw-przezbrojeniowy-ariston-genus-one-na-clas-one-p-154.html

>>21518075 .
Just for how long. Mi serviceman charged 2300 for such a replacement. Figuring that replacing the board with the original 1300 (alone) helps for two years. That's 4 years from now, the boiler may be tossable. But it's worth thinking about.

The heating season is starting, how are your Ariston Furnaces, are they still working can you confirm what has helped you? Looking at the number of threads and solutions I don't know where to start as I have the same problem....

In my case it helped to change the slow ignition parameter from 22 to 40. I had a unsealed chimney and the cooker made a wrong adaptation. It will be a year since I no longer have errors. I already have the motherboard after the design change. I had an inspection done in August. The service technician washed the exchanger and siphon from the inside. Pumped air into the diaphragm tank. I paid PLN250 so priced well. Combustion checked with a probe and burns very well.

I've also replaced the headboard with version 05 so far it's working, but I'm wondering if I should add a heatsink and a stabilizer to prevent the problem from recurring, good direction? Or unnecessary modifications?

On the new album, supposedly no longer a problem. Time will verify.

Hello,
My Ariston Genus One 24 cooker, after 5 years of use and regular servicing, has today switched off.
The display is dark.
The LED on the circulation pump is blinking.
The fuse wire is whole.

>>21457047 >>21457047
God bless the author of this post. You saved the day and my money
The error about flame loss and the boiler not being able to fire — all as described — occurred on my Ariston Genus One System 30 in the third year of use. I've been investigating for almost a week until I understood that the electronic control unit was 99% likely the reason for the failure.
I've re-soldered the mentioned 3 resistors (15 Ω and 5.6 Ω) and after that, the second day I haven't seen any warnings in the service log.
Before this, the boiler could not even work for an hour without a failure.

Спасибо вам огромное за информацию! Очень помогло и котел был возвращен к жизни.
Ошибки "отрыв пламени" и "отсутствие пламени" — все как описано. Пришли спустя 2 года беспроблемной эксплуатации котла.
Почти неделю искал причину, пока не убедился, почитав форумы, что, скорее всего, виновата плата управления.
Пропаял указанные резисторы — 0 ошибок уже второй день. До этого котел вообще не мог запуститься нормально.
На ином русскоязычном форуме находил посты о том, что виновато реле, и народ его перепаивает.
Думаю, просто при пайке реле прогревалась плата и пайка резисторов заодно. Реле легко диагностируется по щелчку при попытке розжига и при выключении горелки.


PWM of gas valve flow modulation


PWM of gas valve activation

board FW version


All the best to everyone — awesome thread!

Same PCB HW version here. I resoldered the resistors and checked every pad and joint on the PCB.

No errors, but sometimes it's still firing loudly with a bang.

Is yours always silent when it's firing?

Can you please post these settings of your boiler?

2.2.0
2.3.1
2.3.2
2.3.3
2.3.4

cmosgr wrote:

Same version of the HW PCB here. I re-soldered the resistors and checked every pad and connector on the PCB.

No errors, but sometimes it still fires loudly with a bang.

Is yours always quiet when it starts up?

Can you post these boiler settings?

2.2.0
2.3.1
2.3.2
2.3.3
2.3.4

check or replace the ignition electrode ( may be burnt )

IONIZATION ELECTRODES/INITIATION ONE

I replaced it; made no difference. It's still making noise sometimes.

It's been like that for a while, and I don't know what to do. It's not doing it every time, and when the technician came to measure gas pressure, etc., all were fine, of course.

Hi. I'm going to link to the topic with my problem.
The kit fitted is a Class One System 21 kW single-function furnace, Ariston Cube S room controller, Ariston external sensor, the DHW cylinder is an Ariston Nuos Sys 240HC heat pump. The furnace setting is a constant temp of 20 °C with a minimum of 19 °C; DHW comfort 48–38 °C timed with heating between 6–8 a.m. and 5–7 p.m. For four years it was OK. The furnace ran flawlessly when there was no DHW heating. After four years, Error 504 started to appear. At first, a reset on the furnace helped; then it did not start up for three attempts: SP1, SP2, SP3. The service technician replaced the ignition electrode at the burner, checked the composition of the flue gases, the CO content of the intake air. Everything was OK. To make sure it was not sucking in flue gas, it was unsealed by removing the front cover so that it would feed with room air. Still, Error 504. The error and the blocking of the furnace always occurred in the morning after heating the water and switching to radiators, like an alarm clock around 6:40 a.m. Turning the cooker off the mains for about 30 minutes helped. Turning it on again caused a reset and the cooker would start up and run until the next day at 6:40 with a difference of 2–3 minutes. In view of all the parameters measured by the service technician, the financially painful decision was made to replace the motherboard. After the replacement, the furnace heated the water to the anti-Legionella temperature, switched to central heating and was OK until the water in the DHW cooled down enough that it had to be reheated. There was an error and the furnace locked up, but now Error 501. Unfortunately, switching off the mains doesn't help, as it keeps calling for a reset, and luckily that helps. The error also appears after reheating the DHW and switching to central heating. I've noticed something else that I don't know if it has an impact: namely, when heating DHW, it highlights the DHW icon on the furnace, but it also heats water in the central heating system because it is warm on the exit and return and shows a different heating temperature than at rest; it heats the nearest two radiators in the riser, the others are cold. I turned off the timed DHW heating setting and set only comfort without timer, and it ran flawlessly for a few days (5–6). I would also add that resetting immediately after an error occurs does not do anything because it does not start. The furnace needs to "rest". Now, as I write this it has shut down again with Error 501, which is the second time today because it also shut down in the morning. It tried to switch on but to no avail; then it switched on with SP1, SP3, then SP2. Is there anyone who can give me a hint, as I'm about to replace parts all over the cooker without being sure I've hit the fault?

>>21774546
He services other brands of boilers. I was asked by friends to come and have a look at the Ariston Genus One System 35 because the Ariston service is not up to scratch. In fact a frequent 501 error, apparently problems with the chimney because on analysis the CO and Co2 parameters diverge. Checked chimney, tight, no CO in intake air, even open front chamber and analysis does not show minimum power. Auto-adaptation failed as on minimum power the flame was going out and knocking off. Electrode replaced with a new one, although I removed the transparent tube from the line. Static gas pressure 22.2 drops to 18.5mbar dynamically at max power.
It's cold now and hard to remove the plate and I don't have a new one, as according to other descriptions this is what is responsible for the poor gas mixture delivery. This would agree with my exhaust analysis results.
I am curious to know what other service technicians say about the Plate of this boiler

Dzieki "Datusan" w moim piecu ALTEAS ONE PLUS NET 24 pojawiały sie błędy zapłonu i bład przekaźnika gazu , wyjąłem płytkę i na nowo przylutowałem tranzystory i rezystory od sterowania elektrozaworami od gazu i od razu piec zaczął poprawnie pracować, tak więc na płycie głównej występują zimne luty!

Hi. The issue seems to have cleared up, because since the "modification" on 31.12.2025 nothing has happened; the cooker runs normally. What was the reason for the rebellion of the cooker? A trivial thing, which I would never have considered, as I am practically an electrical layman. The cooker is connected in the basement to an old electrical installation still laid by my father, and it is a 2-core cable. A double socket with a so-called pin is fitted. The phase wire, which is where the tester lights up, is not on the left, but on the right. With this arrangement, the plug of the cooker must be inserted into the top socket, which I would call "upside down", because then the left pin of the plug will be inserted into the wire where the voltage is. I once turned the cooker off for the summer, and when reconnecting it I inserted the plug seemingly correctly, but for the cooker the opposite way, i.e. into the lower socket, and that's where the problems started. Since New Year's Eve I have had no problems with the cooker. Until that day, if someone had told me that the placement of the plug in the socket made a difference, I would have been surprised, but now I am not. By the way, I have a new motherboard to sell, because it was not the one that caused the problems.

Hello,
Do not forget to inspect the gas valve. You will get many random errors (flame cuts) if the valve is not working properly.
The valve is very sensitive to magnetic fields, so be careful when servicing the boiler. A magnet on a light (lamp), for example, can deform the metal membrane in the valve and cause a problem that you can't see... Another thing is the rubber bumper in the gas valve. Search on YouTube: gas valve fix...

>>21751402
Ariston Genus One System 30
2,2,0 - 42
2,3,1 - 65
2,3,2 - 88
2,3,3 - 1
2,3,4 - 82

Hello! Has anyone encountered the following error 313? The boiler starts working, then immediately turns off and says that the voltage is low, then keeps trying. This is the new type of panel.

🇹🇷 Türkçe Deneyim ve Çözüm Özeti

Değerli Ariston kullanıcıları, ben de bir süredir 5P3 / 5P6 / 501 / 309 hatalarıyla uğraştım ve birçok anlamsız sorun yaşadım. Aşağıda adım adım yaptığım işlemleri ve ulaştığım sonucu paylaşıyorum:

PCB (anakart) sökülerek bakıma alındı.
Röle ve röle yanındaki kondansatörler değiştirildi
Ateşleme bobini kondansatörü değiştirildi
Gaz valfi sürücü 2 adet transistör değiştirildi
1–3 pinlerdeki kondansatör için 1 µF ve 22 µF denendi (ikisi de çalışıyor, sorun burada değil)
Gaz valfi söküldü ve temizlendi.
İzopropil alkol ile yıkandı
Filtre temizlendi
Ölçümler:
1–3 pin: ~24 ohm
2–4 pin: ~67 ohm
2–4 pine 7–10 V verilerek valfin kademeli açıldığı doğrulandı
Kazan içi temizlendi.
İyonizasyon elektrodu kontrol edildi ve ölçümleri yapıldı
PCB kart detaylı şekilde yenilendi.
Arka yüz tüm lehimler temizlenip yeniden yapıldı
Ön yüz tüm komponent lehimleri tek tek tazelendi
İşlemcilerin lehimleri dikkatlice yenilendi
Sonrasında kart ultrasonik temizleyici ile temizlendi
🔥 SONUÇ

Uzun uğraşlar ve ölçümler sonucunda:

Kart üzerindeki komponentlerde (kondansatör vb.) ciddi bir arıza tespit edilmedi
Sorunun ana sebebi:
👉 PCB kartın zamanla kararsız çalışması ve frekans/kararlılık bozulması
🎯 ÖNERİLER
Tüm kondansatörleri körü körüne değiştirmek yerine genel bakım yapın
Tüm lehimleri mutlaka tazeleyin
İzopropil alkol ile temizlik yapın
Mümkünse ultrasonik temizlik uygulayın
Özellikle işlemci lehimlerine dikkat edin

👉 Bu işlemler kartın ömrünü ciddi şekilde uzatır

🇬🇧 English Experience & Solution Summary

Dear Ariston users, I have also struggled with 5P3 / 5P6 / 501 / 309 errors and various unstable issues. Here is a step-by-step summary of what I did and what I found:

PCB (mainboard) was removed and serviced.
Relay and nearby capacitors were replaced
Ignition coil capacitor was replaced
Two gas valve driver transistors were replaced
Capacitor on pins 1–3 tested with 1 µF and 22 µF (both worked, not the issue)
Gas valve was removed and cleaned.
Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol
Filter cleaned
Measurements:
Pins 1–3: ~24 ohms
Pins 2–4: ~67 ohms
Applied 7–10 V to pins 2–4 → valve modulated correctly
Combustion chamber cleaned.
Ionization electrode checked and measured
PCB fully refurbished.
All solder joints on the back side reworked
All component solder joints refreshed
IC (processor) pins carefully re-soldered
Finally, PCB cleaned using ultrasonic cleaner
🔥 RESULT

After extensive testing:

No critical faulty components were found on the PCB
Root cause appears to be:
👉 PCB instability and loss of proper operating stability over time
🎯 RECOMMENDATIONS
Do not blindly replace components
Refresh all solder joints carefully
Clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol
Use ultrasonic cleaning if possible
Pay special attention to IC soldering

👉 These steps can significantly extend the life of the board