Ariston Genus One System: Addressing Gas Boiler Errors 501,504,309,5p3 After Replacing Parts

adamskyyy666 wrote:

Do you also have the same?

Definitely. I bought a cooling spray (Propane-Butane-Isobutane). When you spray on the circuit, the fire is gone...

See the picture. I created a hole in a paper to minimize the impact of the spray. I thought I found the culprit as it was fixed immediately after resoldering one of the resistors (R3 on my circuit posted earlier). It was OK for 3 weeks, but I've got two errors last week again.

Maybe I'll try to replace the resistor completely later. But it's warm in here, so the boiler doesn't run so often and as you say, it doesn't happen when it's warm.

In any way I was told that it should be caused by some failing semiconductor. The resistor is unlikely the cause. But who knows...

Yeah, and last but not least, the quality of the gas is variable at the moment. The Russian gas before the invasion/war was allegedly of higher quality. The current one is worse, they say -- there are many occurrences of boiler failures all around.

Hello, I bought a new board, there are some differences from the old PCB, SMD resistors are replaced, new firmware. Board works perfectly, for now. 280€. I decided to no more waste time with this. I wish you good luck to find out the problem on this damn PCB.

aronmiso wrote:

Hello, I bought a new board, there are some differences from the old PCB, SMD resistors are replaced

Thanks for this! Do I see correctly that they replaced those 15r by 1r5 (brown green black silver)? That would be more negative voltage to pin 2 (negative voltage for the valve).

Thank you all for info. Do you have any more information on replacing the motherboard? I'm afraid that the problem will appear again after two years ... has anyone of you replaced the motherboard and is able to share a comment on this issue?

Hello. These and other errors are 100% corrected by ariston in Tomaszów Lubelski, probably Multiserwis. I sent them the phone number 667125227 myself, it's working for now.

Hi guys. I have read the entire branch of this problem. I have a problem with the boiler for the second time, 1.5 years ago I replaced the board, but after a year and a half the problem appeared with a new board. I didn't want to buy the board for the second time and decided to find the reason. Ariston Russia also could not solve the problem and could only offer to replace the board with a new one, and the warranty period has already passed. Therefore, I did not want to pay for a new fee a second time.

After reading all the tips and recommendations, I did the following.
1) replaced the ceramic SMD capacitor with a disk ceramic capacitor instead of 1nF put 22nF.
2) replaced 4 SMD resistors with metal resistors with the ability to allocate 1-2 watts of heat, I left the same ratings that were on the board 1 resistor at 10 ohms, 2 resistors at 15 ohms and 1 resistor at 5.6 ohms. These 4 resistors are very hot and they should be replaced in principle, it is also not necessary to solder the SMD options - they heat the board in the places of soldering during the operation of the gas relay.
3) I glued aluminum radiators on the LM317M and two adjacent bipolar transistors BCP53-16 to the thermally conductive glue. As the gas relay turns on, these parts get very hot more than 60 degrees Celsius, and I think if they work in this mode for several years with a closed case and a boiler lid, they become unusable when heated.
4) I also soldered 3 chips processor, memory and something else, just to dispel assumptions about cold contact.
5) I also hung a ferrite filter on the wiring of the gas relay (I don't know if it helped, but it definitely didn't get worse).
The conclusion of these actions was the following: at first the board did not want to start, but it turned out that it was necessary to clean it from traces of soldering and soldering flux. Errors 5P3/5P6/501 have stopped appearing altogether. It turned out to finish the calibration of the burner by opening 2 or more hot taps at the time of calibration of the burner (in order to remove the generated heat). Previously, I often had these errors of ignition and flame extinguishing. The whole problem is in the board, no mechanical influences will lead to a solution to the problem. Try to do the same as me, I think I have found a solution to the problems with this board by removing the overheating of the chips and parts, as well as replacing the resistors and capacitor with unused and not overheating earlier. By the way, I first put the capacitor on 1nF, but this was not enough and errors still did not appear so often, but still did not completely go away. So put the capacitor on 22nF, the board works with it, and also I don't get an error with it about checking the gas relay.

After completing all the actions, I went to menu 234, then selected item 280 and reset the boiler settings to factory settings and started the automatic calibration function of the boiler.

Also, the boiler stopped making pops at the moment of ignition of the flame, previously there were very bad and loud pops.

I had the same errors (502, 309 and even 303) and for me the solution was to change the ionization electrode and the problem was solved. Apparently, some models produced recently had this problem with the ionization electrode.

Hi everyone,

I'm having the same issues with the Ariston Genus One 24kW (in Romania). The first time it occurred, it was under warranty, and the PCB was replaced for free. But now, after two and a half years, I'm facing the same problem. This time, if I have to replace the board, it will cost 200EUR. I consulted the technicians from the contractual service firm, and they agreed that replacing the board every 2 years is not an option. During the estimated 10-year lifetime, it will cost me another boiler. So, I have read this thread several times, and based on my information and experience, I agree that 99% of the problem lies with the electronic part that regulates/modulates the valve. I have systematically checked all mechanical items. I know that the electronic diagram is not known, as the servicemen told me Ariston is not willing to 'declassify' the electronics. For them, it is good business to have customers paying an extra 200EUR every 2 years. I have replaced the 1nF SMD capacitor with a ceramic 22nF capacitor, checked the gas pressure, recalibrated, etc., but there have been no significant changes. So, my question is, what exactly is the purpose of that capacitor on the modulating poles (1 and 3) of the gas valve? When I measured the capacitance on the board, it was giving me around 40 microF, and without the capacitor, it was still around 40 microF. When I took out the capacitor, it was indeed about 1nF. So, in my opinion, replacing it with a 22nF capacitor does not make a big difference. I have also seen a tiny improvement after cleaning the igniter electrodes. I can hear the sparks when the cover is off, so there is ignition. The problem lies with the gas valve modulation and/or synchronization with the ignition.

There is one more option to solve the Genus One boiler problem once and for all. It only makes sense when someone wants to replace the disc with a new one. Namely, if someone wants to buy a new board and replace it in their boiler, I personally suggest retrofitting the boiler to the Clas One model. For such an operation, we need an electronic module and a gas valve. And the problem will be solved once and for all.

@madyd
Well, the servicing technicians told me something similar...the Class One series had no electronic issue, and after it, the Genus/Altea came out, both are a total disaster....almost all that they are servicing are ending up with the replacement of the motherboard every 2-3 years.

I have spent many days adjusting all kinds of settings, also trying different values for that capacitor which is between poles 1 and 3 of the gas valve. I am not absolutely sure that electronic components are the real problem. As it behaves for all kinds of settings, it might be some software issue as well. For instance, I cannot explain why some settings are better for heating but not for hot water and vice-versa. I also realized that the actual flame detection is done by the ignition electrode which detects the ionization. So technically not the flame is detected but the accumulation of static electric charges on the electrode.

So... here is one more very strange thing related to this issue. In my experience, if you reset the statistics (all can be reset except the total running hours) also the error list, followed by recalibration, there is a noticeable improvement for 1-2 days. How can this be related to hardware issues? It cannot... in my opinion, that is related to the software. Which probably is similar crap like the entire system. I will never ever buy anything Ariston in the future.

>>20788114
Regarding the conversion of the Genius One boiler to Class One, it's a good idea. Do you need another display? What else was changed? Thank you!

To convert Genus One or Alteas One to Clas One, we need an electronic module and a gas valve. The display can remain. You just have to bear in mind that it will only be so easy with 24 KW boilers. Genus 30 KW or 35 KW cannot be converted so easily. When powered by liquid gas, we also need a liquid gas orifice. In Genus, we select the type of gas with which we feed the boiler in the menu.

So after a year of back and forth, it looks like replacing (only) the valve-controlling transistor (BCP53-16) did the trick. It's marked as Q1 in my earlier drawing. 2 weeks, no more errors.

I agree with you, the problem is two transistors. My second board broke (the fan started working like crazy and there was an error related to the fan, but it is fully operational). I soldered these two transistors onto my first broken board and the ignition problem went away from the very first start. Transistors are always hot and lose their physical properties over time.

>>20848591
Hello my friend, can you tell me if you have WhatsApp or Skype? I have the same problem with a genus one. What is the solution for this PCB, please?

geri1980 wrote:

What is the solution for this PCB, please?

See >>20848591

Is sure 100%?

geri1980 wrote:

Is it sure 100%?

In my case, yes. I haven't had a single error in all those months, even if it was freezing like mad.

Here the PCB

Yes, replacing the left one (smaller red dot/drawing on your photo) should do the trick. It controls the regulation valve.

The right one (and the relay at the bottom) controls the other -- open/close valve. No need to change them, if that valve works correctly.

Is beter to replace q1 and q2 tranzistor .

It's for sure your call. Just let us know if it helped.

Can you tell me if after replacing the transistor, is it necessary to firmware the PCB? Some people told me that I need to reprogram the PCB with Renesas and connect it to the company. Is this true or not? Some electronics experts here in Romania told me this, but maybe they are lying. Here is the message from one of them:

Yes, the transistors, diodes, relay, and 15 ohm and 5.6 kohm resistors are replaced. Then the firmware is rewritten with a special Ariston programmer connected to the manufacturer. Here is a picture of the chat with him:

It's bullshit. You only may need to recalibrate. But the heater recalibrates on its own from time to time, IMO.

Thank you, my friend. I know this is stupid. I'm an electrician from Romania, and I'm not Romanian, but I'm living here. Maybe he likes me like this because I told him it's only the transistor for that. It's a secret here because he lost a client.


Added after 34 [minutes]:

>>20917085
I'm interested in the simple problem with the transistors as you say. I don't have the board with me right now because I'm not at home, so I asked you what the problem would be to repair the board. Thank you for your help, sir. I mean, the problem with this board is those the two transistors is safe.

Added after 4 [hours] 21 [minutes]:

>>20917085
My boiler have new pcg Board here i have new image os this Board have same problem like the old pcb?

Hello, who will help repair the electronics for the Ariston Genus One System 24 stove?
This is the third electronics in 4 years. They don`t want to replace the warranty anymore.
Help: tel. 693039765, e-mail kkkkristof(_at_)wp.pl.
Help!

Guys, I had a slightly different issue ending up in this 5p3 (I hate this stove, I spent so much time with it already). Inside the gas valve, the ferrite kernel was out of the rod. Hence it was shifted by 2-3 mm, so the stove was not working in the middle and low power. And note, there is another guy who had a bumper out of the other rod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxaRm1dBhKo

So when dealing with this error: first, I would check the ignition. Then I would smell if there is any gas flowing into the stove at all (having ignition still out of the stove). If that is OK and it is still dying, I would replace the capacitor, and then I would replace the transistors (and add heaters) and resistors. Maybe we should replace the transistors with some to-220-sized ones or something.

Thanks for the info.

Good to hear, @zapal. I have just been computing the maximum power on the transistor in the stove. The 2-4 coil has 60 ohms. The voltage is 8-11 volts. That means (worst case) P=11^2/60=2 W. But the transistor has power dissipation of only 1.3 W! No wonder it cannot sustain the current in the long term. And I would also wonder if the ambient temperature is < 25 around the PCB, so that 1.3 W will have to be deduced even. What kind of ass**e designed the board? Note the best case -- 8 volts -- is 1.06 W. Quite marginal too.

The other coil (1-3) is 27 ohms and 6.5 volts, meaning: P=6.5^2/27=1.6 W. The same sh*t (slightly better, but still way over 1.3 W).

I am going to replace both of them with BD140-16. It has the same parameters except power dissipation: 1.3 W -> 12.5 W! It's not SMD, it's THT. And one can mount a piece of aluminum as a cooler on it easily too.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

zapal wrote:

one of them had cold solder joints

Could you point out where? The picture is not that sharp, so I cannot see it there.