Ariston Genus One System: Addressing Gas Boiler Errors 501,504,309,5p3 After Replacing Parts

Hi! I had the same problems everyone described. Changed the motherboard, now it works, hallelujah. The only problem I have is the sound! Has anyone experienced that? The sound is just like the system is always on, even when it's not. Even if I turn it off in the app, it still makes the sound in the radiators. It's slowly driving me crazy. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

Please send a photo of your stove screen. Do you have a room controller?

Room controller, you mean like screen on the wall that is connected to the appliance? I do have that.

And that sound that bothers you is there all the time? Looking at the photo you sent, the pump in the furnace should not be working. There isn`t really anything else that could make any noise. When the front casing is removed, the LED on the pump does not light up?

Hello, I also have a problem with the gal-evo board
After plugging it into the socket, the pump works all the time and nothing is displayed on the display. There is a `ticking` noise coming from the motherboard every second.
What to pay attention to and what to replace, thank you in advance

Greetings! I have this new type of motherboard, the error codes 5p3, 5p6, 504 also appeared, what is the solution for this? Could BCP53-16 be the culprit?

>>21097725
Have you read the whole thread? I think it answers the question already.

of course I read it, but this is the new version of the motherboard, so in theory the error has already been fixed

@geri1980 Can you help me please to repair Ariston Genus One PCB ? 65116545-05

Hello colleagues, first of all many thanks for pointing out the fault, actually the solution. In the beginning, I had a 5p3 and 5p6 error that would briefly stop the furnace, after a few days there was a 501 that would stop the furnace, forcing me to press reset and OK. The aforementioned BCP53-16 voltage regulator, at my place during operation was over 60stC, according to the datasheet the operating temperature up to 125stC. Due to the small price of the regulator, I bought two and replaced them, test and immediately 5p3 followed by furnace calibration and already a few days without errors. In this case replacing both BCP53-16s took care of the problem, at the end the errors were for every boiler operation now a few days nothing.

Hello!
The boiler is 3 years old, errors 5p3, 5p6, 501 started to appear. Replacing the relay supplying power to the gas valve helped.

jirislaby wrote:

So I measured most of the joints in the left bottom corner of the desk and I found exactly nothing. Maybe because I pushed some of the cold joints and it is fixed for 3 weeks now. Note that it's the circuit which controls the valves. Anyway, I drew a schema of that while checking the board. I double checked most of the connections, so it should be more or less correct. I will update it once I find a mistake, if at all.

It also includes some voltage measurements.

Everything is at:
https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1GTyb_TC5dc0Ab5QAxp_qsF82PSjE7Cl5

Hi to all,
First of all: many thanks for the great help and work to produce the schematics and the pictures.

Few considerations about the subject: we are facing an automation equipment with sensors and elements of execution driven by a software (programmable - as limited parameters - automate).
Errors are related to the flame. In order to have a flame we need an ignition, gas (fuel) and oxygen (from air). So far so good!
Ignition is made by an electrode connected with a cable to the PCB. Let's analyze what can go wrong: electrode itself - so check the electrode for wear, clean or replace if something is wrong. Also check the insulation around the electrode for current leakage. Cable that connects the electrode with PCB - I will replace this cable from time to time!!! - because it drives high voltage and the quality of its contacts will decrease in time; at least check carefully the cable and ensure that it makes good contact - I recommend to clean with sandpaper where this cable connects to - in PCB and in the other end. This part - could and should be - responsible for intermittent occurrences of errors, because after a period of heating when another cycle is needed this circuit is crucial in functioning. If after reset the equipment works fine for a while, my opinion is that this is the cause of malfunctioning. More arguments in favor of this theory: if when it starts the equipment you hear a "boom" it's a sign of lack of ignition (4% of gas in a volume gets self-explode, without ignition). Also WHEN (after) YOU REPLACE THE BOARD the contact on PCB is new and will work fine for a while, until it gets again with bad contact and will produce again errors.

In another post I will address the fuel (including the valve SVG100 problems described very well by our colleagues) circuit, - problems and solutions - and air problems and solutions (here I recommend to clean the air duct and check-clean-maintain the air fan, or in the end, replace the air fan).

eRoman wrote:

If after reset the equipment works fine for a while, my opinion is that this is the cause of malfunctioning. More arguments in favor of this theory: if when it starts the equipment you hear a "boom" it's a sign of lack of ignition (4% of gas in a volume gets self-explode, without ignition).

Hello. I'm having exactly this problem with my Genus one Ext 25. When I need hot domestic water it makes a loud "boom" sometimes. Like 6/10 times. On heating it's very rare like 1/20 times and not that loud.

If I recalibrate it, it's fine for a day and then it starts again. Soft-ignition does play a role here. Factory 44% is the worst as it produces the loudest "explosions" and throws ignition errors. 55% is the best as I have tested, zero errors but as I said sometimes the ignition is pretty loud.

Other than the loud ignition I have no other issues.

Now what I've found is, if I remove all covers (Genus EXT has two covers - the outer shell and the inner cover) it's working as it should. Very smooth and silent ignition every time.

Gas analysis shows perfect values, gas pressure is stable. There's also a gas filter before the inlet.

Do you think I have also a bad PCB? Electrodes replaced but nothing changed.

>>21289779
My concern is: if you replace the board and it works, what part of the PCB was the problem?

Let's analyze BEFORE replacing the board. You have ignition, but maybe not at the right time. Why? Here the immediate answer is: because of PCB! There is something wrong on PCB OR!!! he is misconducted by some sensors that indicate conditions which are misleading the software to give ignition at that time. When you reset the board or you recalibrated you change something in 'normal' behavior of the soft: the software will ignore some of the signals that come from the sensor and will do the "smooth" start (only with mandatory condition) then will check the other conditions and will apply the path of 'normal' routine. This will happen also if you change the board!
Personally, I have the experience of replacing more than 5 boards and ALL seem to work normally until they give faults. In this thread, the recommendation is to change one capacitor (theoretical for me is a non-sense: I never saw a faulty ceramic capacitor and even if it is bad the capacitor it only slightly changes the gas flow through the valve) or to replace the 2 (or only one) BCP53 transistor that controls also the gas valve.
The ignition is made through an ignition high voltage transformer that could fail sometimes to send a signal to the electrode. If you change the whole PCB you change the ignition module also and this could be the cause of your (ours) problem.
ADVICE to you: replace the PCB (or, be smart and replace only the transformer - white box where the ignition cable is connected - module and/or the 1u5/450 - blue - capacitor). Discharge of electrode is made to ground, so it's a question if you have a good ground connection (some articles mention the 13 ohm of the ground connection as maximum value) before doing anything: measure the ground.
Please let us know of your future experience.

Ground has already been measured by an electrician (before installing the boiler) with a special tool and it came out perfect. I think it was around 2 ohm.

I can replace those parts but I can't understand why it's working fine without the covers.

It seems like there's not enough airflow. Also, have you noticed that hot water ignition is happening much, much faster than central heating? Turbine is working for a longer time on central heating before ignition while when you ask for hot water it just 2 seconds after the turbine starts.

I think it's more like a firmware issue than hardware. (At least on my boiler)

>>21290193

cmosgr wrote:

I can replace those parts but I can't understand why it's working fine without the covers.

This is very tricky and I have no answer to that

cmosgr wrote:

Also have you noticed that hot water ignition is happening much much faster than central heating.
Turbine is working for longer time on central heating before ignition while when you ask hot water it just 2 seconds after the turbine starts.

This seems quite normal because hot water needs instant heating with big flame(more oxygen) and heating needs oxygen to maintain the heating until it reach the desired temp.
Today I've checked the ignition circuit from this picture:

and I notice that a diode is broken(the one in the shadow of the capacitor) then I read some articles related to the 'spark ignition with Thyristor' and there are mentioning that capacitor(in our case the 1,5 microfarad/450v and the RS1M should be replaced in order to have good ignition.
schematics is similar to this:

and the C1 and D1 have to be replaced.
I ordered the 2 components and after I will replace them I will come back with conclusions.

Hello And my question is, how to calibrate afterwards? I have read the whole thread, same errors (fan error, flame blowing off, no flame), I will order today BCP53-16, capacitor 1nf and replace and see what the results are. The issue then this calibration, is it somewhere in the furnace menu?

In the boiler service menu. Parameter 272

OK thanks, I will replace the mentioned components and let you know if it solved the problem.

Hello, we have a Genus one 24kw device. It's 6 years old, it was fine until I disconnected it from the uninterruptible power supply, since then it has displayed the 5P3 and 5P6 errors a couple of times, today I'm going to put it back on the uninterruptible power supply. I'm curious.

eRoman wrote:

This seems quite normal because hot water needs instant heating with big flame(more oxygen) and heating needs oxygen to maintain the heating until it reach the desired tem

It shouldn't matter because the boiler is using the soft ignition setting on both DHW / CH.

I've ordered a new electrode just to be sure, I'll report back.

roimort wrote:

Hello, we have a Genus one 24kw device. It's 6 years old, it was fine until I disconnected it from the uninterruptible power supply, since then it has displayed the 5P3 and 5P6 errors a couple of times, today I'm going to put it back on the uninterruptible power supply. I'm curious.

What type of UPS was on before? (On-line / line interactive?) Do you still have normal ignitions now despite the errors? (No loud / exploding ignitions)

>>21298339
Hi, a very old UPS 700 with two 12V batteries. When the Ariston gas boiler had these errors, there was a more explosive start, but now that there are no errors, the ignition is normal again.

roimort wrote:

Hi, a very old UPS 700 with two 12V batteries. When the Ariston gas boiler had these errors, there was a more explosive start, but now that there are no errors, the ignition is normal again.

Is the UPS on the same power line / outlet or a different one? Make sure live and neutral cables are not reversed!

Hi As I wrote above the ordered parts have arrived. I replaced on the board 2x BCP53-16 and next to it the relay 24VCC/5A (I bought Panasonic with the same parameters), I checked the resistors next to them and the parameters were OK so I only corrected the solders on them because at them from the bottom the board heated up the most. I checked the capacitor values and they were also OK, so I did not replace them. After reconnecting the board and automatic calibration, the furnace has been working since Thursday without a stutter and no more errors, it runs until nice (THE COST IS SOME £15). Also, in my opinion, with the errors (fan error, blown flame, no flame), replacing these regulators solved the problem, as you wrote above.
The only thing that still puzzles me is that 1nF capacitor because it had its parameters and I didn't move it, but somewhere above you wrote to put 22nF but is there a point? will it change anything? MAYBE THE BOARD WILL NOT HEAT UP SO MUCH WITH THESE RESISTORS?

>>21302064

Thanks for the feedback, I'll also replace the transistors and add two small heatsinks to be safe.

Hello. Genus one 30 boiler. After ignition problems from this topic, the touch panel went out. The screen has a backlight, but there is no image. The screen itself is in good condition, checked by replacing it with another one, no power supply problems were found, replacing the 32768 Hz quartz resonator did not give anything. This is also a common failure, does anyone know what is wrong, what is wrong with the display board?

Hi,
today I replaced on the board 2x BCP53-16 and next to it the Omron relay 24VCC/5A. Everything is running fine. Re-calibrated the device, and now it's working. Thank you for the tips!

Hello, after 5 years without problems, my boiler started to make SP3 errors... I noticed that the errors occurred more on cold start-up. Increasing the slow ignition power reduces the number of errors. Given this thread, and my knowledge of electronics, I conclude that the OMRO 24v 5A relay is suspect to me. In fact, when we work on the 1nF capacitor or the 2 transistors we are close to the relay! No one found that this capacitor or these transistors were defective... We can therefore deduce that the heat of the soldering iron can momentarily change the quality of the relay contact! It could be interesting to measure the possible resistance of this closed contact. In relay automation systems, low current contacts often pose a problem... Here, the wider the gas valve is open, (mA max) the less of a problem... It is therefore in my opinion an investigation to be carried out ... In this circumstance, replacing it with a double contact relay in parallel or a very high quality relay would make the errors disappear! Thank you for reporting on your experiences. Due to lack of time, I have changed the PCB for the moment.

>>21307114
Hi, after 3 weeks I've got again 311.5P6. So, I have to change again the Omron relay? What's wrong with these parts? Could anyone send me another producer part type? Maybe Panasonic? I do not know what to do next...

Hi, the relay is not the problem. In the picture I circled a capacitor. Replace it, it can also be with legs "through hole" and soldered to the surface. The capacity can be a little greater than 10µF, the voltage must be greater than 35V. This smooths the voltage to the gas valve transistors.