Remember that even if you disconnect 230V, the capacitors can hold some current and cause a painful shock.
Depending on how well you are soldering, seriously soldering the LED with a resistor to the appropriate IO and mass (or VDD, if you prefer) with the correct polarization (because you know that the diode has an anode and a cathode) will tell you in a minute whether the IO data works or not.
Unless you're doing something else wrong, e.g. you set IO somehow strangely .... but there's nothing to break here, P9 is P9 and that's it. P8 is P8. Etc. On the WWW configurator, we use normal IO naming, such as Tuya
I have bought some very similar switches in the AliExpress Choice Day sales.
Used tuya-cloudcutter to flash OpenBK (didn't even setup in SmartLife app - just went straight to cloudcutter)
> By manufacturer/device name
> 16A Mini Smart Switch
> 1.2.1 - BK7231N / oem_bk7231n_control_switch
Pin settings are possibly different to other versions - these work for my device.
I got some ZN268131's from AliExpress and I have a very basic doubt that I kindly ask your help to clarify: is it really mandatory to connect L1 to live/single phase power and N1 to neutral because it is smart switch, or does ZN268131 works with L1 connected to neutral and N1 to power?
This will make all the difference for me because in most of the applications I would like to use them power and neutral changes depending on the orientation plug is connected to the socket. If "polarity" is mandatory, they will need to be used in the wall, before the sockets...
Thanks in advance for your attention to such a basic question, but if someome can give a reliable answer, definitely it will be you.
Well, it will work with swapped L/N, but it is very strongly recommended to always connect L/N correctly. I don't know why would anyone want to change that. Doing your electric wiring incorrectly poses a serious shock risk.
The power supply circuit used in this device does not provide a separation from mains, so if you swap L and N and start touching WB2S or anything other on the board (or attach DHT11 to board and then touch wire) you might get serious electric shock
I understand, but the normal 2 pin/hole EU plug/socket connections for any electrical appliance can be done both ways (0 or 180°) and in a daily use there is no easy way of knowing, or ensuring, the right L/N connection is done.
Moreover, for instance, in a plug in lamp (where I want to use the ZN's) normally the manual switch only breaks one wire, so we end up living with an high risk of shock and get used that the power might be there even if the lamp is turned off...
Well, it depends on your application, but we have to aware that in case of, let's say, changing the bulb of smart lamp when this lamp is turned off via App/Home Assistnat, there is a 50% chance of L getting exposed into that bulb internals.
Hello. Flashing is one thing and it's described very nicely, there's a movie and I managed to cut off all my useful things that didn't go OTA from the cloud and work locally, but there is BUT. Can someone tell me how to enable this switch to act as a roller shutter switch. He's already combining in all possible ways. After uploading OpenBK7231N, I have a switch that works for me with Home Assistant after MQTT - I can turn it on on the 1st and 2nd relay and everything works, but how to make it impossible to turn on both at once, and how to set the operating time. I do not know.
In Tasmota uploaded via OTA there is no problem with this because we use commands in Console and we can call something like this. In OpenBK, the interface is similar, but these commands no longer work. Can anyone help ?