ZN268131 WiFi Smart Switch that allows you to connect a bistable button

I no longer power everything from 230V CB2S is soldered to the shallow, so when checking I have to watch out for high voltage

Remember that even if you disconnect 230V, the capacitors can hold some current and cause a painful shock.

Depending on how well you are soldering, seriously soldering the LED with a resistor to the appropriate IO and mass (or VDD, if you prefer) with the correct polarization (because you know that the diode has an anode and a cathode) will tell you in a minute whether the IO data works or not.

Unless you're doing something else wrong, e.g. you set IO somehow strangely .... but there's nothing to break here, P9 is P9 and that's it. P8 is P8. Etc. On the WWW configurator, we use normal IO naming, such as Tuya

I know how a diode works. I can handle the soldering of the diodes as well. But I need to stretch out longer.
Ps.
Anyway, I'm not an electronics engineer, but I am an electrician

I have bought some very similar switches in the AliExpress Choice Day sales.

Used tuya-cloudcutter to flash OpenBK (didn't even setup in SmartLife app - just went straight to cloudcutter)
> By manufacturer/device name
> Aubess
> 16A Mini Smart Switch
> 1.2.1 - BK7231N / oem_bk7231n_control_switch
OpenBK7231N_UG_1.15.597.bin

Pin settings are possibly different to other versions - these work for my device.

LED_n - 7 - ch1
Rel - 8 - ch1
Btn - 10 - ch1
TglChanOnTgl - 26 - ch1

Toggle tested with a simple switch.

Thanks, added as add Mini Smart Switch 16A 1 Gang Shunshun:
https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html
I wasn't been able to find any other marking or name on the photos you attached.

No problem.
The AliExpress listing said "Graffiti" if you want to add that.

Hello p.kaczmarek2

What a great post!

I got some ZN268131's from AliExpress and I have a very basic doubt that I kindly ask your help to clarify: is it really mandatory to connect L1 to live/single phase power and N1 to neutral because it is smart switch, or does ZN268131 works with L1 connected to neutral and N1 to power?

This will make all the difference for me because in most of the applications I would like to use them power and neutral changes depending on the orientation plug is connected to the socket. If "polarity" is mandatory, they will need to be used in the wall, before the sockets...

Thanks in advance for your attention to such a basic question, but if someome can give a reliable answer, definitely it will be you.

Best Regards
Fernando Aires

Well, it will work with swapped L/N, but it is very strongly recommended to always connect L/N correctly. I don't know why would anyone want to change that. Doing your electric wiring incorrectly poses a serious shock risk.

The power supply circuit used in this device does not provide a separation from mains, so if you swap L and N and start touching WB2S or anything other on the board (or attach DHT11 to board and then touch wire) you might get serious electric shock

Many thanks for your answer and advise.

I understand, but the normal 2 pin/hole EU plug/socket connections for any electrical appliance can be done both ways (0 or 180°) and in a daily use there is no easy way of knowing, or ensuring, the right L/N connection is done.
Moreover, for instance, in a plug in lamp (where I want to use the ZN's) normally the manual switch only breaks one wire, so we end up living with an high risk of shock and get used that the power might be there even if the lamp is turned off...

Well, it depends on your application, but we have to aware that in case of, let's say, changing the bulb of smart lamp when this lamp is turned off via App/Home Assistnat, there is a 50% chance of L getting exposed into that bulb internals.

Maybe this device isn't suitable for your application.
A smart socket may be more appropriate.

These seem to be designed to be hard wired.

Understood, fully agree.

I educated my children to allways disconnect the plug or even switch off main switchboard when swapping a bulb...

Hello. Flashing is one thing and it's described very nicely, there's a movie and I managed to cut off all my useful things that didn't go OTA from the cloud and work locally, but there is BUT. Can someone tell me how to enable this switch to act as a roller shutter switch. He's already combining in all possible ways. After uploading OpenBK7231N, I have a switch that works for me with Home Assistant after MQTT - I can turn it on on the 1st and 2nd relay and everything works, but how to make it impossible to turn on both at once, and how to set the operating time. I do not know.

In Tasmota uploaded via OTA there is no problem with this because we use commands in Console and we can call something like this. In OpenBK, the interface is similar, but these commands no longer work. Can anyone help ?

Unfortunately, I do not have blinds, so I had no way to make a dedicated controller for them. I could buy them with a donation, and maybe I will soon, but for now we only have solutions developed by contributors:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3972935.html
https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3972935.html (original version in English)

All the best and peace!
I installed the switch module in the socket box, there’s a button on top, there’s a radio button next to the bed on 433 in Node-Red, from there via mqtt to the switch - everything is as intended and works great!
But - I would like to add automatic shutdown after a fixed time, for example 15 minutes, by implementing this using a script in the switch, but there is no understanding of the correct spelling in this “language slang”.
I ask for help in solving the problem, if you write comments on the created code, I will be very grateful!

Hi all,
just wrote your great firmware to my device. One hint: I have two usb-to-uart devices, so I connect my Aubess Power Monitor Switch 3,3V line to one of them, and Rx, Tx and Ground to another. So when I was asked to re-plug power, I did it on first usb-to-uart, and my data link stays intact on second.
My device is slightly different. Here's some photo:

On the second photo, at top of board, you can see cutted route. It is Rx1, cutted to avoid interference with other devices on board, in my case it is BL0542 power monitor.

Another very similar switch on sale AliExpress chip T34 (note altered pinout).

Used BK7231 EASY Uart Flasher to flash OpenBK
> By manufacturer/device name
> DIY Smart Switch
> 16A Mini Smart Switch
> OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.17.812.bin

Pin settings probably differ from other versions - these work on my device.

LED_n - 6 - ch0
Rel - 15 - ch0
Btn - 24 - ch0
TglChanOnTgl - 11 - ch0
TglChanOnTgl - 14 - ch0

-.

StrangerIV wrote:

Aubess

.
Exactly these two Aubess relays failed at my place after a year of operation. The reason is a swollen 10V 470uF capacitor.
Exceptional low quality.

@kicius if you want your template to appear in our list, then put it in JSON format copied from the Web App
https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html
@szszszkownikkilkujadek a known problem, here it was described in more detail:
How to fix a smart device that crunches, squeaks and makes strange sounds? .
And did they break on the original Tuya firmware or after changing it? In the OBK, PowerSave 1 should be enabled there.

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

Are they broken on the original Tuya firmware or after changing it?

.
Original, never touched.