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Extension of the intended lifetime of products

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TL;DR

  • The discussion focuses on practical ways to extend the trouble-free life of household electronics by cutting standby power, easing LED stress, and protecting relay contacts.
  • It recommends switched extension cords or plugs, external DC supplies for radio relays, lower LED drive current, series relay contacts, and current-limiting resistors in toys.
  • Specific values include 12V or 5V supplies for radio relays and a 150-500Ω series resistor for luminous toy LEDs.
  • Reducing idle hours can extend uptime and slightly cut energy use, but it does not prevent mechanical wear or failures in triacs and relays.
  • Some devices should stay powered, such as radio alarm clocks and appliances using delayed-start cycles, and water-fed appliances should have the supply valve closed when idle.
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  • Mechanical clock and smartwatch on a desk.
    The struggle to keep product prices low forces compromises that may reduce uptime. Do you use solutions to extend the trouble-free operation of electronic devices?

    Equipment running on stand-by .
    For appliances without a mechanical power switch that completely cuts off the power supply for years I use extension cords with a switch, or even plugs with a built-in switch. TVs, set-top boxes, monitors, washing machines, dishwashers, microwaves do not need to run on stand-by. A common failure is damage to the power supply through depletion or a power surge. The disadvantage of unplugging the power supply is incorrect time on the built-in clock or longer start-up time of the decoder.... Of course, there are appliances that are worth having a continuous power supply e.g. radio alarm clocks or washing machine/dishwasher where we have set the cycle to start in 5 hours when there is a cheaper tariff. Fewer idle hours under power can extend the life of equipment. We will also minimally reduce energy consumption by doing this. Of course, this does not affect mechanical wear and tear, or electronic damage to e.g. triacs and executive relays switching high-power loads such as heaters. For household appliances connected to the water mains, it is advisable to turn off the water supply with a valve when not in use to reduce the risk of flooding.

    Continuous flow controls .
    Convenient solutions are back box or rail-mounted radio remote-controlled relays. Such devices are often enclosed in a box when retrofitting an installation. I have noticed two types of power supplies for radio relays, these are either transformerless power supplies or switched-mode power supplies. In the first, the film capacitor loses capacitance or the Zener diode is damaged. Switch-mode power supplies, on the other hand, become damaged over time due to the ageing of the electrolytic capacitors or, more often, damage to the inverter circuit. The actuator of the devices is the relay and the rest of the circuit is galvanically isolated, so I specify an external DC power supply. Usually radio relays require a 12V or some newer 5V supply. I happened to use "12V" DC from a nearby buffer power supply to power such devices after reworking the power supply circuit and changing the markings on the case. Using a transformer power supply to power a group of such devices significantly extends their uptime.

    LED lighting .
    In the days of incandescent lighting, soft starts extended the life of incandescent bulbs by eliminating the current surge on the cold filament. LED lighting is often price-optimised and LEDs are forced to operate with high current and poor cooling. For LEDs in the form of 'bulbs', modifications are difficult. However, for off-the-shelf plafonds and illuminators with an external or built-in DC power supply, more advanced electronics engineers can lower the value of the forced current . The brightness of the source decreases, but the failure-free time increases significantly.

    . Firing relay contacts .
    A well-known trick of experienced electronics engineers is to connect sections of relay contacts in series often switching large currents. This method significantly increased the relay's failure-free operating time. Nowadays, one can consider the SSSR relay module . A solid-state 'relay' does not have mechanical contacts, but you have to reckon with the power loss on the triac/ thyristors and less resistance to current and voltage surges. One can also think of a so-called 'perpetual relay' where the switching operations are performed by the semiconductor element, then the EMR relay contacts are connected in parallel to the semiconductor.

    Toys that quickly drain batteries or break down .
    In many toys with luminescent elements, the LEDs run at high current, which gradually damages the LEDs and quickly drains the battery. Simply selecting a series resistor of 150-500Ω (depending on the circuit and supply voltage) will significantly extend the battery life. The current-limiting resistor is often overlooked by far-left manufacturers of various luminescent toys, and the conversion is very simple. In toys equipped with motors, it is worth considering the use of accumulators to reduce the number of disposable cells and batteries.

    Do you use solutions to extend the trouble-free operation of electronic devices?

    Have you noticed which devices break down frequently after the warranty period has expired and what causes the breakdown?

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  • #2 21445685
    Ryszard49
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    televisions, set-top boxes, monitors, washing machines, dishwashers, microwaves do not have to run on stand-by.
    .
    They must e.g. SONY.
  • #3 21445693
    TechEkspert
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    Why.
    Any smartTVs?
  • #4 21445830
    Ryszard49
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    Why?
    Any smartTVs?
    .
    As you wrote.
  • #5 21445923
    elukam
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    Do you use solutions to prolong the failure-free operation of electronic devices?
    .
    Yes, mainly mains filters and systems to reduce the current surge of low-quality power supplies. Although in general the lifetime of a chump is not affected, it is important not to do other damage.
    TechEkspert wrote:
    Have you noticed which devices break down frequently after the warranty period has passed
    By far the most common are those at the lower end of the price spectrum.
    TechEkspert wrote:
    and what is the reason for the fault
    in this particular case the "cleverness" of the owner who decided to save money, naively hoping that nothing bad would happen. Because he's such a specialist that he won't get nicked and if anything, he'll manage. Or that "it will probably break but I will still manage to use it" :) .
  • #6 21445998
    Mobali
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    It is not an easy subject, because cost-cutting does not only apply to electronics. Materials in particular are becoming increasingly inferior; weaker and short-lived plastics or metals are being replaced at an enormous rate with anything and everything. In addition, critical "failure points" are being deliberately designed and planned, often at the interface between electronics and mechanics, where repair is either impossible or uneconomic. Even wiring is appearing that practically no longer contains metals on the conductor material (is it sputtered on glass fibre?). Such practices are indeed extremely difficult to combat....

    In my case, the primary method of protection is to supply devices (especially the more expensive ones) with "good" voltage. I think this is particularly important in this era of problems with an overloaded grid and proliferating PV installations. As a result, on sunny days, the grid voltage can reach absurd values to go too low just after sunset (because there are chargers starting up in the area?). A simple isolating and stabilising circuit can therefore contribute to radically extending the life of our valuable equipment. Particularly as one of the typical failures is precisely the failure of switching power supplies massively used in home electronics.

    LED light sources? They are cheap, so the effort required to upgrade them will not usually pay off. So a kind of art for art's sake. But this is not always the case. When "incandescent" lamps were still a bit more expensive, I once bought myself a larger quantity of such LED sources on occasion. Unfortunately, it turned out that one by one they were "dropping like flies". After several had broken down in just a few days, I decided to at least check what was going on inside. Fortunately, the 'bulb' bulb was not even glued on, but pressed into place. So I was spared the tedious task of trying to get inside. After opening it up, it turned out that access was very good, the layout was favourable for repairs, and for the upgrade it only needed to replace one electrolytic capacitor and improve the cooling to make the 'bulb' run much better. As the disassembly was very easy, and I happened to have the right capacitors on hand, I upgraded myself some 25-30 light sources in this way on tape. In this case it paid off, and many of them are probably still working.
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  • #7 21446207
    szeryf3
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    I personally don't take anything offline.
    Unless I'm going away for a long time. Then I turn off the TV on the strip and turn off the water and gas.
  • #8 21446292
    krzbor
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    I would like to draw attention to the 'Chinese' amps. Similar looking devices. We will have 10A on the branded one and 16A on the unbranded one. This applies to everything - power supply capacity, power strips, relays. As a general rule of thumb, if we have non-branded Chinese equipment, we do a conversion ratio of 1ChA=0.5A (ChA - Chinese ampere). I'm not saying that drawing full current will immediately end in disaster, but it won't work for long.
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  • #9 21446306
    stomat
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    Unfortunately, more and more often the scheduled operating time is stored in software and here nothing can be done anymore. We have all heard of printers reporting half-empty cartridges, short operating times even on a new battery for telephones, for example; even the manufacturer of trains has entered software locks.
  • #10 21446349
    TechEkspert
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    Deliberate software blocking of operations is already a malicious action of the manufacturer, such a situation is hard to fight. Perhaps apart from refraining from buying the products of such a manufacturer.

    Some manufacturers offer the possibility of extending the life of batteries. This is by limiting charging to 80%. We lose 20% of capacity, but the time in which capacity degradation will occur is extended.
  • #11 21446398
    kris8888
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    Some switching-mode power supplies are, against all appearances, better when they operate non-stop than when they experience the cyclical 'current surge' associated with switching off and on again.
    Sometimes a device has worked for a long time until it is switched off. The next switch-on has already killed it.

    As a rule, transformer power supplies can be switched off and on indefinitely without fear.

    All in all, this is a river subject, there are a lot of seemingly minor actions and habits that extend the life of equipment but I understand that this is not the topic of this but of various life-extending improvements.

    In the past, when compact fluorescent bulbs were more popular, I used to drill small ventilation holes in their bodies. This significantly extended their working life.
    Any new power strips are opened as soon as possible and any soldered or screwed connections are repaired, as they are sometimes not made at the factory.
    It is also a good idea to periodically check all connections on the power supply of modern ovens with electronic control, induction hobs, washing machines, etc., as any poor contact and sparking can damage the control electronics. This means checking the sockets, screws on the terminal blocks, fuses in the switchboard etc.
    At the output of the power supply to e.g. LED lamps/lattices at the stairs or in the bathroom, I give a resistor in series of several ohms. This prevents current surge and burning out of the strips.

    LED combination lamps, e.g. those above the mirror or ceiling sconces, usually have the possibility of opening and accessing the LED structure board. This plate is supposedly screwed to a pseudo-heatsink, but the paste is often missing or of very poor quality. Once I lost one such lamp, I preventively replaced the dried paste in all the others. I repaired the fallen one, of course, by replacing individual LED structures. The manufacturer probably 'planned' for the customer to discard these lamps after a few years.
  • #12 21446444
    John Yossarian
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    >>21445998 Led bulbs can be extended in life by removing the burnt diode. We remove the bulb:) of the bulb, locate the burnt-out diode (visible small dot on the surface), remove it mechanically and solder (short-circuit) the pads. The whole action takes 2 minutes and the bulb will shine for a long time.
  • #13 21446619
    James596
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    It's hard to fight planned obsolescence when even such "fiddly things" as LED displays in white goods can go out of date shortly after the end of the warranty.
    This is slowly turning into a situation straight out of the communist era - in order to have a reliable appliance, you have to take it apart after buying it, fix it and assemble it more carefully. ;)
  • #14 21447205
    Kiermasz
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    I there a very simple way to eliminate basic faults before they occur.
    I simply test the EMI emitted by the inverters. The interference starts to grow beyond the statistic for the efficient = soon it is time for capacitors and the vast majority of equipment in this way serves me after 20 years :) .
    The rest are purely construction, design or software killswitch baboos.

    And referring to software killswitches, every so often I come across software killswitching of hardware. The more smart something is and the more it is updated, the faster it becomes unusable even if the hardware is working. I sincerely and highly doubt the promised security, as my data is forcibly uploaded to who knows where. Security is when the data is not sent anywhere and none of the 1500 partners with any legitimate interest can get to it despite their great desire to do so.
    And a wall of encryption makes it very difficult to reverse this malicious state.
    And here I could write a book on methods.
    Mostly what ends up happening is that if there is no cloud, no 1500 partners with an interest and no updates, the hardware starts running for years in a stable way.

    And as for battery toys, where you can, they've been sitting either li-ion or ni-mh for a long time - buying disposable cells for power-hungry devices (e.g. the XBOX360 pad), has never been cost-effective :) .
    And especially if one has children and the offspring have battery-operated toys, a basket of rechargeable batteries is just a must-have :) .
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  • #15 21447213
    TechEkspert
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    "Incandescent" LED bulbs in which the casing can be easily removed do indeed have the potential to be repaired and electro-waste can be reduced in this way.

    @kris8888 some switch mode power supplies get damaged when switched on and as you write they are better off running continuously, this looks like saving on input circuits.

    In old operator/IT equipment I have come across the repeated slogan "as long as it works don't switch it off".
    There is something to this, as I have come across switching power supplies with a partially dried out capacitor behind the bridge and as long as it was powered up the unit worked, when unplugged and re-plugged the inverter would not start and would tick/chirp....

    A worse situation was trying to switch on an old device that had been de-energised for several months/years. More often than not it ended up with fireworks caused by capacitors.

    @Kiermasz interesting idea with testing rising EMI, I'll have to test that, in fact you could test it with an AM radio. Just would need to have some sort of reference point.
  • #16 21447287
    Kiermasz
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    interesting idea with investigating rising EMI, I need to test this, in fact it could be tested with an AM radio. Just would need to have some reference point.
    .

    It will work, just arrange for some RF attenuator so the background doesn't interfere and AGC of a typical receiver.
    Rarely, but by ear you can be fooled and thus the level of interference can be nicely investigated by attaching an S-Meter to a typical receiver :) .

    In general I recommend all around the KF bands in AM mods with the widest possible filter.
    And also the times are nice and today there are portable SDRs (allows you to comfortably see more than just general EMI - if you look closely at the interference of the equipment in question).
    With an SDR in your paw it's a bit like doing a vibration study on CNC machines.
  • #17 21447593
    kris8888
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    In old operator/IT equipment I have encountered the repeated slogan "as long as it works don't switch it off".

    That's right. It used to be that even old, high-speed SCSI drives were recommended not to be switched off, better when they were spinning non-stop (e.g. in a server). Such disks were able to work this way for years. But it was enough to switch it off once and after some time it would no longer start. I don't know exactly what the problem was, probably a bearing issue.
    Kiermasz wrote:
    And referring to software solutions, every so often I find myself with software hardware getting stuck. The more smart something is and the more updates it gets, the faster it becomes unusable even if the hardware works.
    .
    This is true. Even subsequent updates of e.g. Win10 I have the impression that they "specifically" slow down older hardware. The best thing would be not to update so much that on the other hand it is a bit risky with a PC system.
    My Iphone, which is a few years old, has deliberately not been updated for some time now, even though it keeps reminding me. As long as all my apps work, I don't want to. And so I regret that I have already uploaded several updates even though I didn't have to.
    Apple used to be famous for slowing down older hardware with updates. I can't quite believe they've moved away from this practice.
  • #18 21447598
    szym86
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    I do not see a problem, and even if I did, according to Murphy's Law the thing will break in a different way than I would expect. I sometimes consciously leave a drill or a grinder in the rain, because I know from experience that it probably won't break because of the moisture, but because the rotor or the gearbox will break.
    Besides, who wants to prolong the life of a TV set when a better one will come out in a few years. I am not into technology, but when I saw the picture on the oled TV, everything else seemed outdated.
  • #19 21447611
    Mobali
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    szym86 wrote:
    Otherwise who wants to prolong the life of a TV when a better one comes out in a few years.
    Somehow right, but let's not get crazy. Many appliances have been able to serve successfully without constant updates and without being replaced by a newer model. Simple white goods, for example... What is the point of "whisking" a coffee grinder by force when it could easily function for several decades? Audio equipment from almost half a century ago somehow also works and somehow there is no need to replace it with a newer one. Especially as it is not necessarily better. Progress is everywhere, but if someone cares about basic functions, I don't think such frequent replacements are necessary. Especially as it comes at the cost of huge amounts of energy and dwindling resources. Only a handful of rich people are making money from this silly procedure, but they will split the bill "fairly" on all of us. They'll stick it out if only for the gigantic and ever-growing mountain of electro-waste.
    kris8888 wrote:
    I don't quite believe they have moved away from these practices.
    No one believes it. They themselves probably don't either ;-) .
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  • #20 21447694
    James596
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    Mobali wrote:
    Audio equipment from almost half a century ago somehow also works and somehow there is no need to replace it with a newer one


    And there have already been cases of devices with a built-in internet tuner, where the tuner stopped working after a few years, because the manufacturer gave up cooperation with some supplier. ;) Similar situation with older smart TVs - in few of them it works smoothly, if at all. And yet, for example, such a YouTube on the TV has not changed for years....

    As for not switching off devices while they are working, I had such a case with an old Grundig TV. It had been connected in one place for many years and worked perfectly well. When I brought it to Poland, I got a surprise - it didn't work, it just chirped. :) .
  • #21 21447709
    viayner
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    Hello,
    I am personally of the opinion that correct use of the equipment ensures its longevity, additional preventive service supports this.
    Referring to power off, it all depends on the equipment and the intended use.
    Professional equipment, such as measurement systems, e.g. spectrometers, chromatographs, etc., this is not switched off.
    Similarly, as someone already pointed out, 'old' SCSI drives and the like. Devices that do not require continuous power supply, I switch off.
    Golden rule: don't touch/change how it works :) .
    With modern equipment it is worse, quality aside, the problem of lack of longevity is created by the manufacturers themselves, wanting to push new equipment on the user at all costs. The end of technical support or software = lack of newer "essential" features makes most users lean towards new hardware, even though the old one is still springy.
    Regards
  • #22 21447787
    efi222
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    I have at least two devices at home where the manufacturer does not recommend unplugging from 230V. A Brother printer and an LG OLED tv. The printer performs periodic maintenance on its own. The tv 'regenerates' the oleds on standby after they have been running for certain hours.

    For longer trips I switch off everything except the aforementioned printer.
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  • #23 21447811
    TechEkspert
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    In the case of complex professional equipment designed for continuous operation, or the aforementioned printers caring for heads, it is indeed better not to disconnect the power supply. Such equipment often has complex start-up procedures, built-in cyclic self-tests and cleaning processes, for example.

    The 'works, don't move' principle for some equipment is justified.

    Unfortunately, this is also often the watchword of so-called 'forest grandparents'. The result is often complete failure of the equipment + lack of knowledge of the documentation and operating principle, lack of competence and fear of liability. Equipment runs on factory settings so the manufacturer is responsible 😀 It breaks down - 'they didn't move anything'. The need to change arises - 'can't be done' 😉.

    Any extremes are not good, trying to repair expensive equipment covered by the warranty service yourself or creatively saving on running costs will also lead to a problem.
  • #24 21447831
    kris8888
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    TechEkspert wrote:
    Typically radio relays require a 12V or some newer 5V power supply. I happened to use "12V" DC from a nearby buffer power supply to power such devices after reworking the power supply circuitry and changing the markings on the housing. Using a transformer power supply to power a group of such devices significantly increases their uptime
    .
    Only that it is difficult to power such a small extension module with an external power supply, because there is simply not enough space for such a power supply.
    I do things differently for these transformerless power supplies. I remove the factory-made film capacitor, which is usually of poor quality. In its place, I put a capacitor with similar parameters, but still obtained from old colour CRT TVs (from horizontal deflection circuits or converters). In those days they did not save on components and they are of good quality. I have quite a few such capacitors in stock. After such a conversion, the power supply lasts forever, it is sooner that an electrolyte or a zener dies.
    The only problem is that some of these old capacitors are larger in size and do not always want to fit in the original place.
    TechEkspert wrote:
    There is a trick by experienced electronics engineers to connect sections of relay contacts in series often switching large currents. This way significantly increased the relay's failure-free operating time.

    This is actually the first I've heard of this trick. I would be more inclined to use parallel connection of contact sections to reduce the current load per single contact.
    Why does a series connection increase uptime?
  • #25 21448096
    elukam
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    kris8888 wrote:
    TechEkspert wrote:
    There is a well-known trick by experienced electronics engineers to connect sections of relay contacts in series often switching large currents. This way significantly increased the relay's failure-free operating time.

    This is actually the first I've heard of this trick. I would be more inclined to use parallel connection of contact sections to reduce the current load per single contact.
    Why does a series connection increase uptime?
    There is such a "patent", but I would call it a rather thoughtless method of uneducated pseudo-electronicists :) If the contacts configured in this way stick together, the second pair of contacts will not let go either, because it is mechanically connected to the first one. At most, the strength of the connection will weaken, a lot of heat will be released and the contacts will become even more strongly concreted. On the other hand, if any one pair of contacts fries, no current will flow anyway. SAME FAILURE. The argument that in such a configuration the arc will burn slower evenly 2 pairs of contacts instead of one is weak. A better relay is given, simply put.
    Yes, an EQUAL pairing of contacts is used. But this is professionally done in non-hermetically sealed signal relays, which already use other ways to ensure good contact, such as full gold plating. There are even signal relays with immediately factory bifurcated contacts (doubled, tripled).
    Such an "experienced automation specialist" nearly made me several thousand pounds by installing a control system containing just such "clever" patents in a brand-new compressor. Fortunately, the engine lasted before it blew a fuse in the fence.
  • #26 21448165
    kris8888
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    elukam wrote:
    There is such a "patent", but I would call it a rather thoughtless method of uneducated pseudo-electronicists If the contacts are stuck together in this way, the second pair of contacts will not let go either, because it is mechanically connected to the first one. At most, the strength of the connection will weaken, a great deal of heat will be released and the contacts will become even more strongly concreted. On the other hand, if any one pair of contacts fries, no current will flow anyway. SAME FAILURE
    .
    Well, that's exactly what I suspected too. Generally making two switchable contacts in series instead of one is pointless in my opinion.
    And to extinguish the arc in the case of DC disconnection, you use relays specifically designed for this and not create some "alpine combinations".

    On the other hand, it is good practice to add quench circuits in the case of relays switching inductive loads.

    In general, I use hermetic relays wherever possible. This extends their service life considerably.
  • #27 21448290
    Ryszard49
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    kris8888 wrote:
    And in general, wherever possible, I use hermetic relays.
    .
    Or SSR type and the problem is over.
  • #28 21448338
    pawlik118
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    What will extend the life of a relay more? Serial or parallel connection of pray contacts?
  • #29 21448370
    elukam
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    Ryszard49 wrote:
    Or SSR type and you are done.
    SSRs have a large voltage drop and therefore heat up. SSRs are a parallel product, mechanical relays in very many applications do not replace them. SSRs are used for frequent keying in power circuits and with high vibration.
    pawlik118 wrote:
    What will extend the life of a relay more? Serial or parallel connection of pray contacts?
    If you have a particular relay body, it usually has several contact configurations available for different applications and to control different numbers of circuits. One pair of contacts is used to control a single circuit.
  • #30 21448478
    pawlik118
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    elukam wrote:
    If you have a particular relay body, it usually has several contact configurations available for different applications and to control different numbers of circuits. A single pair of contacts is used to control a single circuit.


    Of course I know. I was referring to the first post, where it was mentioned that extension of relay operation can be achieved by using two pairs of contacts in series.
    And so I started to wonder what wears out the relay more:
    - a spark when disconnecting - in which case a series connection of contacts is beneficial
    - spark when connecting the contacts - then in turn a parallel connection of the contacts would be beneficial.
    What do you think?
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✨ The discussion addresses methods to extend the operational lifetime of electronic devices, focusing on reducing standby power consumption and preventing damage from power surges. Common practices include using switched extension cords or plugs to fully disconnect appliances like TVs, set-top boxes, washing machines, and microwaves, which do not require continuous power, thereby reducing idle hours and protecting power supplies. However, some devices such as radio alarm clocks, washing machines with delayed start, and printers with self-maintenance cycles benefit from continuous power. The impact of power supply types is noted: switching-mode power supplies may suffer from current surges during power cycling and sometimes last longer when continuously powered, whereas transformer-based supplies tolerate frequent switching better. The problem of planned obsolescence is highlighted, including software-imposed operational limits and forced maintenance cycles, which reduce device longevity. Protective measures include using mains filters, surge protection, and ensuring stable voltage supply, especially in grids affected by photovoltaic installations. Repair and maintenance tips include replacing low-quality film capacitors in transformerless power supplies with higher-quality capacitors from older CRT TVs, drilling ventilation holes in compact fluorescent bulbs, and repairing LED bulbs by removing burnt diodes. Relay contact configurations for extending relay life are discussed: series connection of contacts is beneficial for inductive loads to better extinguish arcs, while parallel contacts suit capacitive loads to distribute switching currents. The use of quenching circuits (RC, diodes, varistors) is recommended to reduce arcing. Solid State Relays (SSRs) offer advantages in frequent switching but have drawbacks such as voltage drop and heat generation. The discussion also touches on the negative effects of software updates on older hardware performance and the challenges posed by manufacturers' strategies to limit device lifespan through hardware and software design. Brands mentioned include SONY, LG, Brother, Amica, and Motorola. Models referenced include LG OLED TV and Brother printers, as well as the ELGOTECH ŁKD-2N-1 switch.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A simple 150–500Ω LED resistor mod and the rule "as long as it works, don’t switch it off" can both extend product life. This FAQ helps homeowners and electronics hobbyists decide when cutting standby power reduces failures, and when it actually blocks self-maintenance in printers, OLED TVs, and professional gear. [#21447213]

Why it matters: The thread shows that longer service life comes less from one universal trick and more from matching power, cooling, relay, and battery practices to the exact device.

Option Best use case Main benefit Main downside
Switch off at strip TVs, monitors, microwaves, idle appliances Fewer standby hours under power Clock reset, slower startup
Leave powered on Brother printers, LG OLED TVs, pro equipment Allows self-tests, cleaning, regeneration Continuous standby draw
SSR relay Frequent switching, vibration-heavy loads No mechanical contacts Voltage drop and heat
EMR relay + snubber Inductive loads with proper suppression Lower losses, familiar design Contact wear and arcing

Key insight: Do not treat every device the same. Cutting standby helps simple consumer appliances, but devices with head cleaning, OLED compensation, or continuous-duty design should stay powered.

Quick Facts

  • The thread gives a concrete LED toy modification range of 150–500Ω for a series resistor, chosen by circuit and supply voltage, to cut LED current and extend battery life. [#21445674]
  • Radio relay modules discussed in the thread typically use 12V DC or, in newer versions, 5V DC supplies; external DC powering was described as more durable than onboard transformerless supplies. [#21445674]
  • Battery-life extension on lithium devices was tied to an 80% charge limit: you lose about 20% immediate capacity, but slow long-term capacity degradation. [#21446349]
  • One repair case covered 25–30 LED light sources upgraded by replacing an electrolytic capacitor and improving cooling, with long service life afterward. [#21445998]
  • Software-enforced maintenance can be hard limits, not warnings: one industrial example cited a shutdown after about 250 hours until service or counter reset. [#21468083]

How can I safely extend the life of TVs, set-top boxes, monitors, washing machines, dishwashers, and microwaves by switching them off at the power strip instead of leaving them on standby?

You can extend life by cutting power to simple idle appliances that do not need standby functions. Use a power strip with a switch or a plug with a built-in switch. Turn off water-fed appliances with a valve when unused to reduce flood risk. Do not use this method for delayed-start cycles or devices that must retain active maintenance functions. The trade-off is clear: fewer hours under voltage, but you may lose the clock and wait longer for startup. [#21445674]

Which devices actually should stay powered on all the time, such as Brother printers, LG OLED TVs, Smart TVs, or professional measurement equipment, and what maintenance tasks do they perform in standby?

Devices with built-in maintenance routines should stay powered. The thread names Brother printers, LG OLED TVs, some Smart TVs, and professional instruments such as spectrometers and chromatographs. Brother printers perform periodic self-maintenance, and LG OLED TVs run panel “regeneration” after set operating hours. Professional equipment may also perform startup checks and continuous-duty routines. A user also noted two home devices specifically not recommended for regular unplugging from 230V: a Brother printer and an LG OLED TV. [#21447787]

Why do some switch-mode power supplies fail right after being unplugged and plugged back in, even though the device worked fine when left powered continuously?

They can fail on the next start because aging capacitors still support operation when continuously energized but cannot survive a fresh startup surge. One thread example described a partly dried capacitor after the bridge rectifier: the device worked while powered, then only ticked or chirped after unplugging and reconnecting. Another pattern appeared after long storage without power, where old capacitors failed with “fireworks” on restart. This behavior was repeatedly tied to cost-cut input circuits and weak startup margins. [#21447213]

What is an SSR relay module, and how does it compare with a traditional EMR relay for extending service life in high-current or frequently switched loads?

“SSR relay module” is a solid-state switching device that replaces moving contacts with semiconductor elements, offering no mechanical contact wear but introducing voltage drop, heat, and surge sensitivity. In the thread, SSRs were presented as useful for frequent switching and vibration-heavy applications. Traditional EMR relays still fit many loads because they waste less power and keep galvanic separation through physical contacts. For higher-current SSRs, heatsinks or even fan-cooled heatsinks were mentioned as normal support hardware. [#21448977]

What is an RC snubber or quench circuit, and how does it protect relay contacts when switching inductive loads?

An RC snubber is a relay protection network that reduces arc energy when contacts open an inductive load. The thread’s AI summary explicitly listed RC circuits, diodes, and varistors as quenching elements. Their role is simple: limit self-induced voltage spikes, reduce sparking, and slow contact erosion during disconnection. This matters most with coils, motors, and other inductive loads, where the opening arc is the main life-limiting event. Using the right suppression network is safer than forcing relay contacts into improvised configurations. [#21448983]

Series vs parallel relay contacts: which connection helps more with inductive loads, capacitive loads, arc suppression, and overall relay lifespan?

Series contact connection helps more with inductive-load disconnection, while parallel connection helps more with capacitive inrush at switching. The thread’s AI summary linked series contacts to arc splitting during opening, and parallel contacts to sharing surge current when charging capacitive inputs. Several users challenged the practical value of series wiring, noting timing differences, welded contacts, and failure concentration on the fastest contact. The safest conclusion from the discussion is pragmatic: use the correct relay class and add suppression, instead of relying on contact tricks alone. [#21448983]

How do I reduce LED lamp failure by lowering LED current, replacing dried thermal paste, or changing electrolytic capacitors in ceiling lights and LED bulbs?

You reduce LED lamp failures by cutting heat and current stress. Lower the forced LED current where the driver design allows it; brightness drops, but service life rises. In serviceable ceiling lights, users reported dried or missing thermal paste on the pseudo-heatsink, so replacing it improved cooling. Another repair pattern was replacing a failed electrolytic capacitor in LED bulbs. One participant rebuilt about 25–30 lamps this way after discovering repeated early failures. The thread consistently treated heat, overdrive, and weak capacitors as the main killers. [#21445998]

What is the proper way to repair an LED bulb by locating a failed diode and shorting its pads, and what risks does this method involve?

The thread describes a fast repair, but it is a compromise, not a universal best practice. 1. Remove the bulb cover and locate the failed LED, identified by a small visible dot. 2. Remove the bad diode mechanically. 3. Solder across its pads to short that position. The reported time was about 2 minutes. The risk is clear: you change the LED chain’s electrical balance, and the remaining LEDs may run under altered stress. Use this only on repairable bulbs where access is easy. [#21446444]

How can I power radio relay modules more reliably from an external 12V or 5V DC supply instead of their built-in transformerless or switching power supply?

You can improve reliability by bypassing the onboard supply and feeding the relay electronics from a stable external DC source. The thread states that many radio relays use 12V DC, while newer ones often use 5V DC. One user reworked the power section, powered several modules from nearby 12V buffer power, and changed the case markings accordingly. He reported that using a transformer-based supply for a group of such devices significantly improved uptime. Space limits inside small modules remain the main practical obstacle. [#21445674]

Why do cheap transformerless power supplies in relay modules fail from capacitor or Zener diode problems, and what replacement parts improve longevity?

They fail because the weakest parts are usually the dropper capacitor and Zener diode. The thread specifically states that transformerless relay supplies often lose film-capacitor capacitance or suffer Zener damage. One repair strategy was to remove the original film capacitor and fit an older, higher-quality capacitor salvaged from CRT TV horizontal-deflection or converter circuits. That mod was said to make the supply effectively last “forever,” with later failures more likely in the electrolytic capacitor or Zener. Larger replacement size was the main fitting problem. [#21447831]

What practical methods help protect home electronics from unstable mains voltage caused by overloaded grids or PV installations?

Use cleaner, more stable mains power for valuable equipment. The thread recommends feeding expensive devices with “good” voltage because daytime PV overproduction can push mains voltage unusually high, while evening demand can pull it low. One user specifically suggested a simple isolation-and-stabilization stage to protect home electronics, especially against failures in the switching power supplies widely used today. Another user added mains filters and inrush-reduction systems for lower-quality power supplies as useful preventive measures. [#21445998]

How do EMI measurements with an AM radio, S-meter, or portable SDR help predict failing capacitors or aging inverters before a device breaks down?

Rising EMI can act as an early warning that inverter capacitors are aging. One participant said he tracks emitted interference and treats growth beyond the normal baseline as a sign that capacitor service time is near. He suggested AM reception across shortwave bands, with an RF attenuator and ideally an S-meter, to make changes easier to judge. He also recommended a portable SDR because it shows more than a simple noise increase. This method was presented as a practical predictor before hard failure occurs. [#21447287]

What charging habits really extend lithium battery life, such as limiting charge to 80% or using adaptive charging in Motorola phones?

Limiting maximum charge to 80% is the clearest battery-life tactic named in the thread. A participant stated that you lose about 20% immediate capacity, but extend the time before noticeable capacity degradation. Another example came from Motorola phones, where adaptive charging learns a night routine, holds the battery near 80%, and tops it off shortly before wake-up. The thread framed these features as manufacturer-provided protection against aggressive charging habits and premature wear. [#21499122]

Why do some printers, smart TVs, internet tuners, phones, and industrial machines become unusable because of software counters, blocked features, or end of support?

They become unusable because software, not hardware, sets the operating limit. The thread cites printers refusing to print when a toner counter says replacement is due, internet tuners in older devices failing after supplier support ends, Smart TVs losing app usefulness, and industrial equipment stopping after maintenance counters trip. One industrial example even described a shutdown around 250 hours. Several users treated this as deliberate product control: blocked service, locked features, and forced maintenance that survive even when the hardware still works. [#21468655]

How can I make battery-powered toys last longer by adding a 150-500 ohm resistor to LEDs or switching from disposable cells to Ni-MH or Li-ion rechargeables?

Add a series resistor to LED toys and move high-drain toys to rechargeables. The thread gives a practical resistor range of 150–500Ω, depending on circuit and supply voltage, to cut LED current, reduce battery drain, and slow LED damage. For motorized toys and game controllers, several users recommended accumulators instead of disposable cells, with Ni-MH and Li-ion both mentioned. One user called a basket of rechargeable batteries a must-have in homes with children and battery-powered toys. [#21447205]
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