Volumio on Raspberry Pi 4B and Zero 2W - my battles with Volumio.

On the configuration side, for example, audio is better than Volumio. We'll see, maybe in time the priorities will change and one of the players will be on Moode.

i on my volumio click "close" on the touchscreen and it closes without a problem. then a physical switch and it's done. it's been up every time for a couple of years or so.
the volumio on the back stands, in case anyone asks.

tytka wrote:

I found it simpler to check 5V on the USB than to add extra functions.

There's a 4.3" screen on what I've shown. But I have a 7" too, maybe there will be another version with it.

I was just recently browsing your tower and was about to ask if you were planning an additional panel for streaming or Flac playback and today I ended up here. Those displays you mentioned can you give some additional parameters or some symbols. I just prefer the kind of front panel look you used. Is the Volumio software you used in your project paid or free? What is the approximate cost of your new tower module?

The whole point is to make it convenient. I press the momentary button on the frontpanel, Volumio switches on. I press again , the Volumio system shuts down and immediately afterwards the RPi is disconnected from the power supply. I got tired of inserting and removing the power supply from the socket or the usb extrusion.

Edit:
I have just designed an on/off version of the "bida edyszyn" The control consists of four AND gates, one OR gate, a D flip-flop and an NE555. On paper it worked, in simulations too, we'll see in the real circuit. Of course there are no water features in the form of dimming diodes, but for small pi zero 2 it will be just right. The on/off procedure itself works the same as in Radek's design.

Gee, strange, because I've been using volumio for years and day in day out it's shut down by a brutal power cut and no problems with the micro SD card.
From what I remember, volumio is optimised to minimise writes, e.g. syslogs are only in frame, etc. And changing configurations or other user operations are not too frequent, after all.

I too, when I don't have time, simply switch off with the button and indeed have never yet had a problem with volumio rising.

Anyone can switch off at will. I have decided to "civilise" the whole process at my place and describe one of the many ways in which this can be done. By default, the only correct way to turn Volumio off is to enter the application, call up the settings, click "turn off", wait until the system closes , selecting "turn off", waiting for the system to shut down and disconnecting the power. Starting Volumio is done by applying power to the RPi. In my case, switching off Volumio and RPi will be done by : :press on/off for a moment and nothing more. Turning it on again is to click on/off for a moment and that's it. I don't think it's any simpler, apart from the lack of possibility to damage the program.

As I've written before, the circuit can be done with a few gates, a D and a 555 flip-flop, a p-mosfet to switch on the RPi power supply, a 5V stabiliser and maybe two optocouplers or transistors to convert levels from 3.3 to 5V or level converters.
Today I bought some single gates and flip-flops from TME (single in the sense of a single gate in SOT23) I will soon start making the board.

Trial layout made, effect as expected. Works as it should. Composition: 4 AND gates ( it is possible to do less but there was nothing to do with them,in the IC there are four), one D flip-flop 4013, one OR gate ( or NOR, will come out in the wash) and NE555. The D flipper in the 4013 does not require an additional NOT gate from the NE 555 output to cancel it.
While the cmos work fine at 3.3V the NE 555 only started at 4.5V. I have purchased TLC555CDR cmos which work from 2V. Tomorrow I'm going to test the TLC 555 at 3.3V (if it passes). The plan is to use three ICs in the SMD version and a single OR gate in a SOT 23 package. What remains to be done is to control the P-mosfet, check the circuit with the RPi and put the whole thing on the PCB.

>>21715378 I wouldn't play with this, it would be quicker to package an atmege328 with soft to control this and smaller by the way, and chatgtp soft in 5-10min to write.

After all, the project is on Atmeda. There is a whole box of components from TME waiting for the boards that have not arrived yet.
What I am showing here is that it is possible to make an on/off circuit using components costing no more than 3 PLN a piece, and there are literally several of them. Not everyone has the ability/willingness to play with processor programming. I don't have such desire and knowledge about this subject. Radek, on the other hand, has the knowledge and capabilities, and has embraced the subject on Atmeda. The second thing is the economic sense. It makes no sense for me to pack a 2W power supply into a Pi Zero, which will cost about 100zl. For such a zero I can successfully pack the control on cmos and if I spend 25zl for it, it will be everything. The board itself will probably be smaller. Sometimes it is worth to look at the matter from different sides.
And as for writing software by AI.... It is said that every program has to be corrected.

My trial project requires some SMD components so I designed myself SMD/THT adapters. In CAD, of course...
I etched the two boards. Method as always, chalk paper, laser and etching. I mastered this method a long time ago and it comes out 100%.
Radek let me know that the power supply boards will be in tomorrow but the assembly won't be until Wednesday unless there are more important things to do.

There hasn't been an update for a long time but one that there was no time to play around with the hobby and two that Radek had to fine-tune the programme.
In general, everything worked as it should. The power supply performs all the functions it was supposed to. A few timing parameters needed correction including the shutdown delay time and the Volumio closing pulse time.
Radek did a good job. Here official thanks to him for doing the design and the software :thank you !
The pictures show the soldered board and the first, trial connection of the little Pi Zero 2. There is, of course, RGB and PWM diode control. The RGB can be dimmed and brightened to several degrees using a button on the board, and the light colour can be achieved in principle by changing the parameters in the software.
If I can find some time, I may connect the large Pi4B to the power supply later today, but I don't expect any problems. The 5V stabiliser will be under the board, but screwed to a metal case.
There are traces of flux on the board, the quartz resisted soldering so it looks battered. I don't want to replace it with a nice one. It works.







Radek version: