Is the CA10P control panel sufficient for home light and alarm automation?

Question

Hi. I'm currently finishing building a house - an electrician friend recommended that I run an additional UTP cable to each light switch and blinds. I've started to collect stuff to learn how to install a smart home (I want to do everything myself) - I have an idea of programming, worse with the...

tomjed · Answer

Read up on Fibaro, for example....

v1cks · Answer

Tomjed, I've got some freebies from the integra so I want to use them

tomjed · Answer

I also have an Integra, that's why I'm writing you about something that integrates with the Integra... You write that you're collecting gear... write at least an outline of what you want to do with the Integra...

gigi-44 · Answer

You won't get enough outputs on a Ca 10, but on an Integra you'll do light control and other things without a problem. But set yourself up for a minimum of 64 and preferably WRL.

v1cks · Answer

Yes I know, the ca10 will not last. I have it basically just for learning so far. The target is to be integra 64.
The question is, if I have a utp cable, will I be able to control the lights (assuming that the light points are connected in circuits according to the rooms)

mick1 · Answer

v1cks - if you want an integrator, use the cable Satel recommends, not twisted pair. YTDY. With twisted pair you have a few extra conditions to bear in mind.

v1cks · Answer

The problem is that the cables have already been laid. The walls are plastered. I've got mains plus a short at each switch

tomjed · Answer

mick1 don't scare your colleague. A twisted pair can be fine. Just remember not to let the clock sigs go in one pair. For fixed voltage it makes no difference how you let them go.

gigi-44 · Answer

To make the wired connections between the devices included in the system it is recommended to use straight unshielded cable (it is not recommended to use the cable type „twisted pair” – UTP, STP, FTP) is recommended. When using „twisted-pair” cable to connect devices to the communication bus communication bus, it should be remembered that one pair of twisted-pair cables cannot be used for dTM and CKM / DT1 and CK1 / DT2 and CK2 signals (data and clock) must not be transmitted. A twisted pair will suffice.

mick1 · Answer

I was just writing about these additions. I thought the wire was unplaced, so I didn't go into detail. But thanks to others for the correction

v1cks · Answer

Gentlemen, how about it in the end ? i have a twisted pair at the switch, are there any additional relays that I can use to control the light through the integra?

tomjed · Answer

Specially dedicated is not there. You have to prove yourself. Any alarm shop will have something for you. Just remember to have a diode in parallel to the output, and that the low-current outputs are ground-controlled.

kind regards

v1cks · Answer

So what voltage is coming out of the integra outputs? 5v or 12v or maybe 24v?

gigi-44 · Answer

I suggest you take a look at the Instructions

v1cks · Answer

ok, I've got it all figured out - constant 12v and ground control. I just can't seem to find any aftermarket relay with a 12v coil and 220v contacts

tomjed · Answer

But what are you up to...You will find no such thing as a

v1cks wrote:
a sub-transmitter with 12v coil and 220v contacts

.

Relays generally have a current carrying capacity for the contacts. There are plenty of these on the auction portal. Or go to a regular electronics shop, they will even sell you a kilogram. Just remember to have a diode in parallel with the coil, because you will "fry" the output.

kind regards

v1cks · Answer

Generally, I want to be able to control the light using the integration with only a twisted pair at the switches. Unfortunately, I do not have each light point wired separately in the switchgear but connected in circuits according to the room/room

tomjed · Answer

Hey, I see. You need to fit a relay into the can. I wrote that there is no box relay. Either the relay itself or the relay with the board you made up.

v1cks · Answer

So theoretically my plan is right ? The problem is that I can't find any 230v relay that will drive the coil through 12V Unless something like this is suitable: Coil 12V AC

tomjed · Answer

Yes. But the price...A regular relay is 2 PLN. Look for an alarm shop near you. They often have relays on boards there.

v1cks · Answer

i went around the shops... as soon as I told them what I wanted, the salesmen made big eyes o_0 i can't find any specific products on the internet either...

gigi-44 · Answer

Wouldn't it be simpler to install INT-IORS, a relay output module which makes it possible to control electrical devices supplied with 230V AC?
It is a module for an integrator and if you connect the control panel to the net, you will be able to remotely switch on the light from your phone or computer.

mick1 · Answer

There are plenty of 12v relays available. Have a look, for example, on allegro - the cheapest are around one zloty.

Edit: because I've just caught myself writing stupid stuff (actually half of the message stayed in my head).
You load some kind of output extension into the switchgear (either IORS if on DIN, or INT-O if for the cabinet), connect INT-O controlled relays and off you go. Of course, the programming itself is another matter.

A relatively different solution (and this is my preference) - if you have the ability to mix with the wiring from the lighting on the switchboard side (and have room for the IORS), you control the lighting via the IORS and connect the power there. Then the twisted pair in the walls lies and does nothing. - just as the previous member wrote.

pafciowaw · Answer

Single: or Many...only that the contact voltage is poor...you would have to choose better relays (higher contact voltage) and ...blade in hand and divide into 5 parts...?!

v1cks · Answer

IORS is nice, but if I had each light point separately in the switchgear, and unfortunately I have circuits by room/trunk... (220v)

The only thing I have from each switch in the switchboard is a twisted pair

griszadwa · Answer

Integra all nice and cool just how to do dimming of lighting mainly LED lamps?
All circuits connected to INT-IORS, controlled from bell switches.
Any ideas? I would like a couple of circuits to have this capability.

griszadwa · Answer

I checked the integration documentation a bit and what if I added 4 wire cables between the INT-IORS and the dimmer. It would work like a staircase switch. I would get manual dimming capability with a large selection of dimmers. Only I guess the integration won't know what state the INT-IORS relay is in whether it's on or off. Are there any more downsides, limitations to this application? To be programmed as a bistable output.
Can anyone confirm this from the automation specs on Satel?

v1cks · Answer

Gentlemen, what about my question for which I opened this thread ? Are there any bistable relays with 12v coil and 230v contacts ?

pafciowaw · Answer

Please: Perhaps it is possible (at Zamel) to produce ... such an after-supply!

Is the CA10P control panel sufficient for home light and alarm automation?

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