Automatic switching of path lights when wicket is opened - how to do it?

Hello,
I would like the lights on the path (supplied with 230v) to switch on when I open the gate.
How do I implement this?
You could probably use a motion detector, but I have a dog and he would probably switch the light on at night.
Can I use a limit switch such as this
http://sklep.jawaautomatic.pl/me-9101-wylacznik-krancowy.html
which I will mount in the post and the spring will work with the wicket, which when opening will bend the spring and give voltage to the AS-212.
Only can such a switch give impols only bending to one side?

This limit switch you specified gives a pulse no matter which way the stick is bent.

You can use a cut-off switch with an automatic staircase lighting system which, on the impulse of the cut-off switch, will switch on the lamps for e.g. one minute.

Such automatics operate on a rising edge so there should be no problem.
I assume that electric shock protection is provided.
There is also a version powered from a lower voltage - the AS-214.

The limit switch, in my opinion, is designed to disconnect something.
Maybe one from a fridge would be a simpler solution and without a spring. The question of airtightness to think about.

Typically, such industrial stops are hermetic and have a choice of NC or NO contacts.

The author has provided a link to the switch:

Quote:

Turn and NO pins : 1 NO + 1 NC

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dedito wrote:

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I assume that electric shock protection is provided.
...

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What do you have in mind? The earthing conductor?

SebM wrote:

dedito wrote:

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I assume that electric shock protection is provided.
...

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What do you have in mind? The earthing conductor?

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Call an electrician.

Because electricians are already flying to such a "fuck".
" Lord maybe in the winter when there is more time."
And how will I lay the cable in the winter if I have to ?

Or else.
I have a 3x1.5 gel-coated cable dug in.
Will it be possible for me to connect a 12 v led on this cable. Then I could control the light with buttons from the intercom.
Should I replace the cable with another one?

I'm not up to date with the regulations but for my own safety and that of other people and animals I would protect this circuit with a residual current circuit breaker, the circuit of course then being accepted by an authorised electrician.

The differential is to be separate for this circuit. The question is whether there are any advantages in favour of 230 volts, or whether everything should be done on 12 volts, in which case the control is less of a problem.

It depends what length of wire you have. At 12v DC you will have a fair amount of wire loss but the LEDs should reasonably work.

Cable max. approx. 50 metres, 6 -8 lamps for path lighting only.

Welcome,

Surely it will be simpler and safer on 12V DC. With a 3x1.5mm2 cable there should be no problems. For safety, buy a power supply with adjustable output voltage so that you have 12V at the lights.
At the wicket you can use (if you have the space) photocells from the gate operators to trigger the time relay. What wire do you have pulled up to the wicket? What about switching on the lights from the other side of the path?

Greetings.

I have laid a 3x1.5 mm2 gel-coated black cable.
I can turn on the light from the house with a classic on/off switch or with the intercom button. Although I would prefer a switch. Everything is connected to the box in which I also have an as-212 to control the lights from two sides. At 12v I will change to the one recommended above.
Won't such a gated motion sensor catch my dog?

Welcome,

Is 3 wires not enough? You have one such wire to power the lights and the other to the gate, is that right?
If a dog runs up to the gate and breaks the transmitter -> receiver harness, of course it will turn on the lights.

Greetings.

With these three wires according to the description of the as-212, the light can be switched on from one end and the other. Something like a cross switch.
I also have an intercom for the wicket, from which I could switch the light on the path using a button. Then these detectors are unnecessary.
And are there any advantages of 230v lamps, because now I have read that if I want to control the swing gate there is 24v. Then why do I need the 230v?
Alternatively, at the gate, some kind of maintenance-free solution, I open the gate, I get a pulse and the light comes on.