FAQ
TL;DR: For a 3×1.5 mm² cable run, “simpler and safer on 12 V DC” plus a gate‑triggered impulse/timer relay reliably switches path lights. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16646692]
Why it matters: This FAQ shows how to auto‑switch path lights on gate opening without false triggers from pets, and what to wire for safety and reliability.
Quick Facts
- Gate trigger options: limit switch pulse works regardless of lever direction (good for wicket movement). [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #16644239]
- Staircase/impulse relays accept a rising-edge trigger; AS‑214 offers a low‑voltage variant. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644249]
- Use an RCD/GFCI to protect the lighting circuit and have it accepted by an authorised electrician. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16645075]
- Adjustable 12 V power supply helps maintain 12 V at lights over the run. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16646692]
- Gate photocell beams can be broken by a dog, which will switch the lights on. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16647370]
How do I switch path lights automatically when the wicket opens?
Mount a limit switch on the post so the wicket movement gives a pulse. Feed that pulse into a staircase/impulse relay (e.g., AS‑212/AS‑214) set for the desired on‑time. Wire its output to the path lights’ supply. “Such automatics operate on a rising edge,” so a brief pulse is enough. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644249]
Will the ME‑9101 limit switch send a pulse in only one direction?
No. That style sends a pulse regardless of which way the lever is bent. This makes it suitable for door or gate motion that can move the actuator both ways. It simplifies mechanical mounting because you don’t need directional detection—only contact closure on movement. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #16644239]
What exactly is a staircase (impulse) lighting relay?
It’s a module that toggles or times a lighting circuit from short control pulses. You press a momentary button (or trip a switch), and the relay turns lights on for a set time, then off automatically. Models like AS‑212 run on mains; AS‑214 is a lower‑voltage version. “Such automatics operate on a rising edge.” [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644249]
Is 12 V or 230 V better for this path lighting job?
12 V DC is simpler to make safe outdoors and easier to control from accessories. One expert put it plainly: “Surely it will be simpler and safer on 12V DC.” Use an adjustable 12 V supply to counter voltage drop and keep lamp voltage correct at the end of the run. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16646692]
Will a motion sensor or gate photocell trigger on my dog?
Yes. If your dog crosses a gate transmitter‑to‑receiver beam, it will switch the lights on. Choose a mechanical limit switch or a concealed reed switch on the wicket if pet‑proof triggering matters more than intrusion detection. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16647370]
Can I reuse the 3×1.5 mm² cable for 12 V LED path lights?
Yes. A 3×1.5 mm² run is acceptable for 12 V over typical garden distances when paired with an adjustable supply to maintain voltage at the fixtures. Keep total load reasonable and verify end‑of‑line voltage under load. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16646692]
What length and lamp count did the original project target?
Approx. 50 m total cable with about 6–8 path lights. Use this as a planning reference when sizing the power supply and verifying voltage drop under load. [Elektroda, SebM, post #16645435]
How do I avoid nuisance switching from both opening and closing?
You don’t need to. The lever switch pulses in either direction and the impulse/timer relay reacts only to the rising edge. The outcome is one timed ON per movement sequence, not chatter. Set the relay’s time to cover walk‑through duration. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644249]
What contacts does the referenced limit switch provide?
The linked model offers one normally‑open and one normally‑closed contact (1 NO + 1 NC). Choose the NO contact for a clean trigger pulse to the relay. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644308]
Can I trigger the lights from my intercom instead of sensors?
Yes. Use the intercom’s momentary button to send a control pulse into the AS‑212/AS‑214 input. That lets you switch from the house and the gate, acting like a multi‑way control without extra mains switching. [Elektroda, SebM, post #16647347]
Is there 24 V available in many swing‑gate operators for control?
Yes. Many gate operators expose a 24 V control circuit you can use for a pulse input to your timer/impulse relay, eliminating separate mains triggers at the wicket. Confirm your operator’s terminals before wiring. [Elektroda, SebM, post #16647510]
What electrical safety should I include outdoors?
Protect the lighting circuit with an RCD/GFCI and have the installation checked by an authorised electrician. Outdoor circuits face moisture and mechanical risks; residual‑current protection is a key safety layer. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16645075]
Any edge cases to watch with microswitches at the gate?
Ensure weather sealing and correct mounting. A poorly sealed microswitch can fail from moisture ingress, and misalignment can cause missed pulses. Industrial units are typically hermetic and offer NC or NO choice for robust triggering. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16644262]
Quick 3‑step: how do I wire a wicket limit switch to an AS‑212?
- Wire the limit switch NO contact to the AS‑212 control input and common.
- Set the AS‑212 time (e.g., 60 s) and connect its output to the light circuit.
- Adjust for a clean “rising edge” pulse when the wicket moves. [Elektroda, dedito, post #16644249]
Will 12 V over 50 m cause noticeable dimming?
Expect some voltage drop on 12 V DC runs. Use a suitably rated, adjustable power supply and size the load (e.g., 6–8 fixtures) to keep end‑of‑line voltage near 12 V. Measure under load and trim the supply. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16646692]
Can the AS‑212 mimic a cross/three‑way switch from both ends?
Yes. With a momentary control at each end, the AS‑212 provides multi‑point control like a cross/three‑way setup, but using pulses instead of latching mains switches. This simplifies wiring and integrates with intercom triggers. [Elektroda, SebM, post #16647347]
