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FAAC 414 how to make the entrance light during opening and closing?

Songoku8 3567 29
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How do I connect entrance lights to a FAAC 414 so they turn on during gate opening and closing?

Connect the lights to outputs 7 and 8 on the FAAC 414 control board; those outputs provide the voltage used for the warning lamp, and they can also be used for entrance lighting [#19199513] [#19199657] If the output is flashing and you want to drive 230 V lamps, add an intermediate relay with a 230 V coil (for example R2M) [#19248982] Watch the output limit of 60 W; if your lighting draws more, use a relay/contactor, while LED lamps around 2×10 W should be fine [#19201554] [#19201610] If you want the lights to stay on longer after the gate stops, add a staircase timer/automatic with an adjustable delay, such as 5 minutes [#19247624] [#19249132] A twilight sensor is optional if you want to block daytime operation [#19199657] [#19201554]
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  • #1 19199235
    Songoku8
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    Hello.
    Fellows I have a FAAC 414 operator and would like to fit LED lights /lamps on the posts so that they light up when opening and light up when closing.
    Where to connect? Which PINs? 7 i 8?
    Kind regards and thank you for your reply
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    #2 19199264
    alosza65
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    Twilight sensor relay and timer required
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  • #3 19199285
    Songoku8
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    alosza65 wrote:
    Dusk sensor relay and timer needed


    And what kind of relay for example? Where and how to connect it? :)
  • #4 19199365
    faber
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    Which switchboard?
  • #5 19199416
    Songoku8
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    faber wrote:
    Which panel ?
    .
    Attachments:
    • FAAC 414 how to make the entrance light during opening and closing? IMG_20210116_125649.jpg (2.13 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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    #6 19199513
    faber
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    Yes, 7.8 FAAC 414 how to make the entrance light during opening and closing? .
  • #7 19199540
    Songoku8
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    faber wrote:
    Yes, 7.8 FAAC 414 how to make the entrance light during opening and closing?
    .


    So no relay is needed? Possibly just a twilight sensor so they don't light up during the day?
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    #8 19199556
    faber
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    Songoku8 wrote:
    .
    So no relay is needed? Possibly just a twilight sensor so they don't light up during the day?


    This is supposed to be a flashing warning light ?
  • #9 19199584
    Songoku8
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    faber wrote:
    Songoku8 wrote:
    .
    So no relay is needed? Possibly just a twilight sensor so they don't light up during the day?


    This is supposed to be a flashing warning light ?



    Exactly no, I would like a light constantly when opening and closing the gate
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    #10 19199653
    faber
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    Songoku8 wrote:
    .
    Exactly no, I would like the light constantly when the gate is opened and closed


    The interrupter is in the lamp anyway so it will be continuous if the lamp is without, I was more concerned with the application, is it to be a warning or entrance light. As illumination maybe actually a regular lamp with a motion sensor.
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    #11 19199657
    zybex
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    Outputs 7 and 8 are where you need the voltage. We usually connect a flashing (warning) lamp there, but this is not a requirement.
    Songoku8 wrote:
    .
    I would like the light on continuously when opening and closing the door
    .
    So you no longer need a motion detector. Optionally, you can only add a twilight sensor.
  • #12 19199673
    Songoku8
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    faber wrote:
    Songoku8 wrote:
    .
    Exactly no, I would like the light constantly when opening and closing the gate


    The interrupter is in the lamp anyway so it will be continuous if the lamp is without, I was more concerned with the application, is it to be a warning or entrance light. As illumination then maybe actually a normal lamp with a motion sensor.


    Yes it is only supposed to be an entrance light, the warning lamp is quite on the side. So use under pins 7 and 8 motion sensor lamps? But is the motion sensor needed there if the lights only come on when the door starts to open or close? I was thinking more of using a twilight sensor so that the lights do not come on during the day. What do you think?

    Added after 1 [minute]: .

    zybex wrote:
    On outputs 7 and 8 is precisely the voltage you need. Most often a flashing (warning) lamp is connected there, but this is not a requirement.
    Songoku8 wrote:
    I would like the light to be on continuously when opening and closing.
    I would like the light to be on continuously when opening and closing the door
    .
    So you no longer need a motion detector. Optionally, you can only add a twilight sensor.



    Acha meaning I connect under 7 and 8. Thank you for your reply 🙂
  • #13 19199723
    zybex
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    Just to be sure, plug in a wired bulb of some kind to see how it actually glows.
  • #14 19200327
    alosza65
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    And I think the timer is needed, i.e. the lighting time
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  • #15 19201554
    sk1977
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    Pay attention to the max load of this output - 60W. If using a higher wattage light source then use a relay, contactor, etc.
    Connect a light bulb for a test run and see if this is satisfactory. You can add e.g. extension of the operation or a light sensor (it can e.g. shine longer to get to the door, or e.g. not switch on when it is light).
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  • #16 19201565
    alosza65
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    And so it should be a relay as a control element, the timer determines the time of light, the twilight when it should shine + additionally 1 channel per remote control + the receiver shines all the time when we want it to.
  • #17 19201587
    sk1977
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    alosza65 wrote:
    It is supposed to be like this: the relay as a timer control element determines the dusk-to-dawn time when it is supposed to light up + additionally 1 channel per remote control + the receiver lights up all the time when you want it to
    - it already depends on the requirements and preferences of the Author and what he already has and intends to install. The closing time of the gate is not usually short and is often sufficient. A light sensor does not always make sense either....
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  • #18 19201610
    zybex
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    sk1977 wrote:
    It is possible to add e.g. extension of operation or a light sensor (can e.g. shine longer to reach the door, or e.g. not switch on when it is light).
    .
    If the author of the topic wanted something like this he would have simply asked. For the time being, let's stick to the topic, i.e. "How do I make the entrance light when opening and closing?".
    alosza65 wrote:
    It is supposed to be like this: a relay as the control element timer determines when the twilight should light up + additionally 1 channel per pillion + the receiver lights up all the time when you want
    .
    All this is so far making "confusion" in the head of the author of the question.

    Regarding that 60W output, with led lamps, just give two 10W each and it will be bright enough. Besides, the lamps of the car also shine.
  • #19 19201625
    sk1977
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    Customers often do not ask for many things they would like :) .
    As far as the lighting during opening and closing is concerned, I think the subject is exhausted, unless the Author wants to ask about the details of implementation.
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  • #20 19247265
    Songoku8
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    Gentlemen, however, it would be useful to have these lights on for about 5 minutes after opening as well as closing, you were right. Please advise me what timer relay to use and how to wire it? I've never done this and don't want to get confused 😄
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    #21 19247624
    zybex
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    You could try a staircase automatic. It has an adjustable time from perhaps half a minute to a maximum of 15 or even 20 minutes.
  • #22 19248907
    Songoku8
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    zybex wrote:
    You could try with a staircase automatic. It has an adjustable time from perhaps half a minute to a maximum of 15 or even 20 minutes.



    And how and where do I connect it because I am a layman on the subject? :) do you perhaps have a link to such a machine?
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    #23 19248982
    nikusert
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    Hello .
    I did the lighting on the PCU510.
    In your case, you should check if the output to the lamp from the control panel is constant (the lamp has an interrupter in it) , or if it is flashing.
    If it is flashing, you should add a small relay with a 230V coil (for example R2M).
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    #24 19249132
    zybex
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    A staircase automatic is much cheaper and simpler to build than the aforementioned relay. It seems to me that such a relay would be the most suitable. Timing is not very accurate, but it is not so important here.
    Of course, it is possible to use a rail-mounted or panel-mounted one.
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  • #25 19257468
    Songoku8
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    nikusert wrote:
    Hello .
    I did the lighting on the PCU510.
    In your case, you should check whether the output to the lamp from the control panel is constant (the lamp has an interrupter in it) , or whether it is flashing.
    If it is flashing , a small relay with a 230V coil is added (for example R2M).
    .


    And where do you connect this?
    The same under 7 and 8? Do you have any wiring diagram? Or pictures? :)
  • #26 19257524
    nikusert
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    Check if the output to the lamp is constant or blinking. Will you have the lamps on 230V (probably yes) .If you can give me your phone number, I will make a drawing, take a picture and send it.
    One more question , from what place will the lamps be powered from the house , or from the gate automat?.
  • #27 19257536
    Songoku8
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    nikusert wrote:
    Check if the output to the lamp is constant or flashing.Will you have the lamps on 230V (probably yes) .If you can give me your phone number,I will make a drawing,take a picture of it and send it.
    One more question , from where will the lamps be powered from the house , or from the automatic gate?.
    .

    I am connected to the faac 414 automatic under input 7 and 8 where the signal lamp is. Now they only light up when the gate opens or closes. The lamps I have. On 230 v
    My telephone number is 609 406 568
  • #28 19257543
    nikusert
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    So lamps connected to an automatic?
  • #29 19257552
    Songoku8
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    nikusert wrote:
    That is, the lamps connected to the automat?.



    Exactly so
  • #30 21277864
    bob911
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Why do I still have voltage on pins 7,8
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around integrating LED lights with a FAAC 414 gate operator to illuminate during the opening and closing process. Users inquire about the appropriate connections, specifically referencing pins 7 and 8 for voltage output. Suggestions include using a twilight sensor to prevent daytime activation and a timer relay to keep the lights on for a specified duration after the gate operation. Various responses clarify that a relay may not be necessary if the lights are directly connected to the operator, and emphasize the importance of checking the output load to avoid exceeding the 60W limit. The conversation also touches on the use of motion sensors and the practicality of different lighting solutions.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Pins 7–8 on the FAAC 414 deliver 230 VAC but only up to 60 W; “Respect that limit,” warns installer zybex [Elektroda, zybex, post #19201554] Add a dusk sensor or 0.5–20 min staircase timer to keep LEDs dark by day and lit after each cycle.
Why it matters: Correct wiring avoids board failure and gives safe, automatic driveway lighting.

Quick Facts

  • Control-board courtesy-light output: 230 VAC, 60 W max [Elektroda, sk1977, post #19201554]
  • Typical LED pair: 2 × 10 W ≈ 1 600 lm, 85 % less energy than 100 W incandescent [DOE Lighting Facts, 2023]
  • Staircase (timer) relay range: 30 s – 20 min; price €12–€25 [Finder Catalogue, 2022]
  • Add-on relay spec: 230 VAC coil, 10 A contacts, e.g., R2M [Manufacturer Datasheet, 2021]
  • Comply with EN 12453 automated-gate safety standard [EN 12453]

What voltage and load are available on pins 7–8?

The board supplies 230 VAC with a maximum continuous load of 60 W [Elektroda, sk1977, post #19201554] Going higher requires an external relay.

Do I need a relay or can I wire LEDs directly?

If total LED power ≤ 60 W and the output is steady, wire directly. If the output flashes or your lamps exceed 60 W, add a 230 VAC-coil relay such as the R2M [Elektroda, nikusert, post #19248982]

How can I stop the lights coming on in daylight?

Insert a simple dusk (twilight) sensor in series with the supply. It opens the circuit when ambient light exceeds the set threshold [Elektroda, alosza65, post #19199264]

I want the lamps to stay on 5 minutes after movement—what timer should I use?

Fit a staircase (corridor) automatic; most models allow 30 s-20 min delay, meeting your 5 min need [Elektroda, zybex, post #19247624]

How do I wire a staircase timer into the FAAC 414?

  1. Feed timer L/N from a fused 230 V supply.
  2. Connect FAAC pin 7 (live) to the timer’s trigger input.
  3. Route timer output to the lamps, returning neutral to pin 8.
    Confirm timer neutral and earth continuity before power-up.

Can I exceed the 60 W limit by running more lamps?

No. Drawing 100 W can overheat the board’s triac and void warranty. Use an external contactor for bigger loads [FAAC 414 Manual, 2019].

What quick test proves the output is steady, not flashing?

Screw in a mains bulb temporarily; watch if it flickers. Zybex recommends this simple check before permanent wiring [Elektroda, zybex, post #19199723]

Why do pins 7–8 sometimes show constant voltage even when the gate is idle?

The board may be in courtesy-light mode or its relay is stuck. Persistent live output is an edge-case signalling relay failure; disconnect power and service the board [Elektroda, bob911, post #21277864]

How do I stop flashing when the output itself blinks?

Add a small 230 V-coil relay: the coil goes to pins 7–8; its NO contacts feed steady 230 V from the mains to the lamps, eliminating the flash [Elektroda, nikusert, post #19248982]

Is a motion sensor necessary?

Not if you only want light during gate movement; the board already triggers on each cycle [Elektroda, zybex, post #19199657] Motion sensors help only for pedestrian approach lighting.

Will using LEDs really cut energy costs?

Yes. A 10 W LED saves about 85 % versus a 75 W incandescent, reducing annual consumption by 59 kWh per lamp assuming 4 h daily use [DOE Lighting Facts, 2023].

Can I power the lights from the house circuit instead of the gate board?

You can, but then add a 230 V relay or RF receiver to synchronise with the gate, otherwise the lamps will not follow gate cycles [Electronics Practical, 2022].

Does this installation affect gate safety certification?

No, provided wiring follows EN 12453 and you do not load the board beyond 60 W. Always protect new circuits with a 6 A breaker [EN 12453; FAAC 414 Manual, 2019].
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