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230V Timer Relay Recommendation for Automating Façade Lighting with 5 Lamps

TAGBA 3138 17
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How can I automate 230V façade lighting for 5 lamps so they switch on and off at a set time, or ideally at dusk with an automatic cut-off time?

Use a 230V timer relay or astronomical clock rather than an Arduino 12V module; one specific suggestion was the Zamel ZCM11 time programer [#16919093] If you need a smaller device, another poster suggested a compact digital timer relay meant for mounting in a box or on the surface [#16919102] For dusk-based switching with automatic seasonal correction, an astronomical clock is a good fit because it adjusts for sunrise and sunset [#16919707] If the control device cannot be placed near the lamps, you can install a programmable clock in the switchboard and use it to control an Elmes controller or a miniature MTX/MTX2 transmitter [#16924541] The thread also noted that a simple programmable timer can be a mechanically driven timer plugged into a socket [#16920862]
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  • #1 16919066
    TAGBA
    Level 11  
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    Can anyone advise me how to solve the automation of lighting up the façade? I have 5pcs lamps on the façade and I would like them to turn on and off at a specific time. Maybe a time relay? I have found some more timer relays for the arduino but they are all powered by 12V and I need 230V.
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  • #4 16919133
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #5 16919284
    TAGBA
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    I don't want to put it in the cupboard because there is only one power supply and I don't want to connect all the lamps to the timer. Ideally, I would like to fit it in the box or, if necessary, somehow squeeze it into the first external lamp.
  • #6 16919304
    wnoto
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    There is to be a specific time ... or as it gets darker. Because the latter option is smaller devices. But the active element must be outside :) .
  • #7 16919685
    TAGBA
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    If it gets dark, it can be done, as long as it is possible to set a time interval after detection. I don't want it to stay on all night. With a dimmer it would be even better not to have to reset the timer from time to time.
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  • #8 16919707
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    The astronomical clock itself will make a correction for sunrise and sunset.... only I haven't seen an after-dash one yet.
  • #9 16919742
    TAGBA
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    And will you find something from astronomical at a reasonable price, because for 5 lamps, it's a bit expensive from what I found?
  • #11 16920439
    wnoto
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    TAGBA wrote:
    I don't want it to stay lit all night.
    How much power are these lamps ?
  • #12 16920493
    marek216
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    I would use motion detectors with a light sensor.
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  • #13 16920511
    elpapiotr
    Electrician specialist
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    How about something like this ? :D .

    230V Timer Relay Recommendation for Automating Façade Lighting with 5 Lamps
  • #14 16920561
    wnoto
    Level 34  
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    How much does this miracle cost .... and how much can it fit in?
  • #15 16920862
    TAGBA
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    The power of the 5 lamps will not exceed 50W. I was also thinking about such a mini detector which I could build in one of the lamps, except that the maximum range is 6m and the elevation is 20m. And converting each of the lamps is not an option.

    Such a mechanical timer can be drawn from a timer plugged into a socket :D .
  • #16 16921961
    wnoto
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    And how long after switching on should they remain lit?
  • #17 16923576
    TAGBA
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    Most likely from darkness until max. 22.00, i.e. sporadically in summer and more in winter.
  • #18 16924541
    bhtom
    Level 39  
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    Welcome,

    You can use a such Elmes controller. Plus a programmable clock (installed e.g. in the switchboard) short-circuiting the remote control buttons or controlling a miniature MTX or MTX2 transmitter.
    Everything is doable.

    Regards.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses automating façade lighting with five lamps powered at 230V, focusing on time-controlled switching. The original poster seeks a timer relay compatible with 230V supply rather than common 12V Arduino modules. Suggested solutions include dedicated 230V timer relays such as the Zamel ZCM11 and digital electronic timers suitable for mounting in switchboards or surface-mounted boxes. Considerations include installation constraints, preferring devices integrated into lamp enclosures or external boxes rather than centralized switchboards. Alternatives discussed involve astronomical clocks that adjust for sunrise and sunset times, with wireless modules for remote control, though cost concerns arise for small installations. Motion detectors combined with light sensors are proposed for presence-based control, but limited detection range and complexity of retrofitting all lamps are drawbacks. The lamps’ total power is under 50W, and the desired operation period is from dusk until approximately 22:00, varying seasonally. Mechanical plug-in timers are also mentioned as a simple option. An Elmes controller paired with a programmable clock and miniature transmitters (MTX or MTX2) is suggested for remote switching via short-circuiting control inputs. Overall, solutions balance between fixed-time relays, astronomical timers, sensor-based automation, and remote control modules, considering installation space, power requirements, and cost.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For 230V façade lighting with 5 lamps (≤50 W total), use an in‑wall digital timer, DIN‑rail timer, or an astronomical clock; “The power of the 5 lamps will not exceed 50W.” [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16920862]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps homeowners pick a reliable, compact control method without rewiring every lamp.

Quick Facts

What 230V timer relay is recommended for 5 façade lamps?

Use a 230V in‑wall digital timer or a DIN‑rail time switch. Both handle low LED loads and offer weekly schedules. If enclosure space is tight, in‑wall models fit standard boxes. DIN‑rail versions suit central wiring with a dedicated circuit. [Elektroda, Xantix, post #16919102]

Can I avoid running every lamp through the main cupboard timer?

Yes. The OP wanted to avoid rewiring into the cupboard. Fit a compact in‑wall timer in the first lamp’s junction box or a flush box, provided there’s neutral and phase present. This keeps changes local and avoids cabinet congestion. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16919284]

Should I use a dusk sensor or a fixed-time schedule?

A dusk (photocell) sensor turns lights on when it gets dark. A fixed-time timer switches at set times. For compact hardware, dusk sensors are smaller, but place the sensor outdoors with clear sky exposure for accuracy. [Elektroda, wnoto, post #16919304]

Can I turn lights off at 22:00 but still start at dusk automatically?

Yes. Use a dusk trigger followed by a timer window, or choose an astronomical clock and add an off‑time cut‑off at 22:00. This meets the requirement: on at darkness, off by 22:00. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16923576]

What is an astronomical clock in home lighting control?

It’s a timer that calculates local sunrise and sunset and adjusts daily without a light sensor. As one expert noted, “The astronomical clock itself will make a correction for sunrise and sunset.” This reduces seasonal reprogramming. [Elektroda, pol102, post #16919707]

Is an astronomical clock overkill for five low‑power lamps?

It can be costlier than basic timers. However, it removes manual seasonal changes. If budget is tight, combine a dusk sensor with a cut‑off timer to limit run time. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16919742]

What about using a motion detector with a light sensor?

Motion detectors with a built‑in photocell turn on only when someone approaches after dark. This saves energy for low‑traffic façades and avoids all‑night lighting. Position sensors to cover walkways or entrances. [Elektroda, marek216, post #16920493]

My façade is 20 m long; will a mini PIR with 6 m range work?

Coverage will be limited. A single 6 m sensor won’t span a 20 m elevation. Either add more sensors or place one where activity is highest. Converting each lamp isn’t desired by the OP. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16920862]

How do I install an in‑wall digital time switch for 230V lights?

  1. Verify phase, neutral, and load conductors are present in the box.
  2. Wire the in‑wall clock per its diagram; set weekly program.
  3. Test manual override, then enable auto mode. Typical in‑wall units are 80×80 mm. [Elektroda, Xantix, post #16919102]

When should I choose a DIN‑rail time switch instead?

Choose DIN‑rail when you have panel space and a dedicated lighting circuit available. Centralized wiring simplifies maintenance and allows higher current relays if you expand later. [Elektroda, 762302, post #16919133]

Is a wireless or remote module a viable alternative?

Yes. Pair a central programmable clock with a miniature wireless receiver or transmitter module controlling the lamp circuit. This avoids running new control wires and keeps control flexible. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #16924541]

What is Arduino Nano?

Arduino Nano is a small microcontroller board used for DIY control projects. It often runs at 5 V and needs external power relays for 230V loads, which is why the OP looked for mains‑rated timers instead. [Arduino, 2025]

Can I add a dimmer to reduce brightness at night?

The OP mentioned interest in dimming, but not as a hard requirement. If you add dimming, ensure compatibility with your LED drivers and timer or sensor. Some dimmers and timers can conflict. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16919685]

What’s the typical size or spec for an in‑wall digital timer?

A referenced model measures 80×80 mm for flush or surface mounting. That form factor suits standard wall boxes and keeps installations neat while delivering programmable schedules. [Elektroda, Xantix, post #16919102]

What if there’s no room in the switchboard for new hardware?

Install control in the wall box or first lamp’s junction box. The OP preferred this to avoid cabinet rewiring where only one supply existed. Verify enclosure ratings for outdoor locations. [Elektroda, TAGBA, post #16919284]

What is an ambient‑light ‘dusk’ sensor?

It’s a device that switches lights based on measured illuminance outdoors. It enables auto‑on at dark without time programming. Install the sensing head outside; the active element must be exposed. [Elektroda, wnoto, post #16919304]
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