Welcome, I am in the process of starting to put up the walls of the house. I am now planning out the electrics and I still have full discretion on the electrics. I want to distribute the wiring so that it will be suitable for a smart home system in the future. I don't have a specific system...

Hello There are many smart home systems out there, it all really depends. And this can be a problem, because in some systems you need signal cables, and in others only power cables (Fibaro works wirelessly, you only connect power and outputs to devices). It would be best to find out what kind of system you want, of course, you can throw twisted-pair cables at the walls, but it may turn out to be unnecessary. The only thing I can recommend now is to lay out your cables intuitively. 1 The question is whether it will be a wireless or wired system. Wireless - only power cables will suffice for everything, no twisted pair. Wired - a socket with a twisted pair cable yes, preferably two boxes at once, a LAN module in one and 230 volts in the other. If the lamp is to blink or dim in addition to lighting, (assuming the control panel or module is at the switchboard), throw the cables from the lamp and the 3x1.5 switch into the switchboard. And similarly all the wires to the control place, if you have a control module in the switch box then all the wires there. 3 It also all depends on what voltage they will be supplied with. You can throw a twisted pair but it's better to have a regular electric for the lamps. Same as pt. 2. 4. up-down blinds and tilt angle are already 4 functions, to be honest the connection depends on these blinds, I won't take a recipe out of my hat for everything, as the blinds need 230 V power supply and an ordinary twisted pair for switching modes, then you can throw a 3x2.5 power supply from the switchboard and to the switch 2x3x1.5. I used 1.5 mm instead of twisted pair in the example, as it is an alternative that will not deprive you of 230 V control from the switch. 5. yes 6. shielded twisted pair, preferably F/FTP 7. Movement sensor 6x0.5 Smoke/flame detector YnTKSY 2x2x0.8 Temperature sensor 6x0.5 8 Depends on the valve, what transmitting voltage. 9. no. Route PPwielofunk. - module - receiver. As I wrote, it depends on the system, you can have a bolognese system, i.e. different brands of modules, or you can have everything from one manufacturer, in which case the control panel has some inputs and outputs and a bus for expansion with additional input and output modules. The power supply from the control panel goes to the module, the signal from the on/off switch or seniors/sensors goes to the module and goes to the control devices. 10 As a precaution, you can, although I have never derived power/controls from this.

My reservations are. 1. for sockets 3 x 2.5 mm² and not 3 x 1.5 mm². 2. Wherever there may be 230V phase voltage, the minimum wire cross-section is 1.5 mm². Therefore twisted pair only where you are sure that this voltage will not be present.

Thank you for your response. Regarding the choice of system: I was now at the interior design fair 4DD Katowice and there were several exhibitors of smart home systems. From the wireless system there was Fibaro. I asked around with them whether to choose a wireless or wired system. They pointed out the high cost and the lack of possibility to change with wired systems. Easy and quick installation, fully wireless, additional modules can be purchased at any time. I then visited the Ampio and Nexwell wired stands. Here I found out that Fibaro doesn't work in larger houses due to the distances involved (mine is 250m2) and the high failure rate and communication problems, as well as being condemned to one supplier - Fibaro. I liked the wall modules themselves, the touch buttons much better than the Fibaro. Therefore, due to the fact that I still have the option to lay the wiring as I wish, I decided to go for a wired system. What do you guys think? I only estimate at the outset that the wired system will cost several thousand more than the Fibaro. As far as the installation is concerned (I assume the wired variant with the control panel in or by the switchboard): From my non-electrical perspective, I interpret the answer as follows. Please check this: 1. where the lighting is, we do not do a twisted pair, but an electrical cable (3 x 1.5 mm2) directly run from the switchboard. And if you want to have a switch/control panel for this light on the wall, you run a twisted pair (low voltage) directly from the switchboard to the location of this switch. 2. where the 230V socket is to be incorporated into the intelligence system, a 3 x 2.5 mm2 cable is laid directly from the distribution board. Is a twisted pair additionally necessary? The sockets cannot be combined, but all power goes from the distribution board each on a separate cable for each socket (otherwise there will be no possibility of control).

Twisted pair can be but there is no option to change to electric, if it will be three contacts in the key it is better to give 1.5mm The second point I don't understand, twisted pair is needed as communication is needed between modules / control panel. You wrote about it yourself so I gave a method of installation

. I like the LCN system best and I really don't know why it is so little known. Maybe it's because it just requires a decision to be made before the facility is wired, i.e. adding one more wire. It is a fourth network cable ,red, allowing for any expansion and configuration of the installation later. More on example here . Aha, the LCN system does not require a control panel, each module is autonomous, which does not mean they cannot work together. I would further like to inform you that I am not a distributor, representative or have any relationship with the manufacturer, so my post is not an advertisement of any kind.

Lighting: One wire: FROM the switchboard 3x1.5mm TO where the lamp will be. Second cable: FROM the lamp 3x1.5mm TO the switch location or FROM the distribution board 3x1.5mm TO the switch location (ignoring the lamp). ? 230V socket: One wire: FROM the distribution board 3x2.5mm TO the place where the socket will be Do you need a second cable? From the distribution board: Twisted-pair cable to the socket?

Lighting: A second cable from the switch to the switchboard, depending on which switch, a twisted pair can be thrown in as if there were to be a manipulator-like device there in the future. Socket: This is up to you, in total..... If it is only to supply power to a device, that's OK, but if the device is to communicate with the control panel, which is within a metre radius of the distribution board, then it is best to add a LAN cable, and preferably in the box (the second one - not the one from the 230V socket) next to this socket as another 'socket field'.

Buddy, you're being awfully combinative with these twists. I'll tell you how I'm doing it at my place now (small renovation of the whole floor). Lighting: From the switchboard Lamp From the switchgear switch Sockets: From the switchboard Socket This connection will guarantee you a connection to virtually any home automation system. I have installed 3 switches in each of the rooms on the first floor (so far just boxes) with a twisted-pair cable in each. This gives me the ability to control 6 'devices' from each room, lamps sockets, blinds - whatever you connect and program yourself. My rule of thumb is that everything I want to control has to be plugged into the switchboard. Since I also have a garage, I will connect the switchboard in the garage with the one at home using a twisted-pair cable so that both systems will work together. Especially since it will be easier to run the cabling in the backyard from the garage. If you base your home automation on Arduino or Raspery PI or derivative systems then you will save some pennies. Ready-made automation systems are quite expensive.

. Why do 3 switches with twisted pairs allow you to control 6 devices? How is this calculated?

3 boxes in each we put a two-pole switch, together 3x2 gives us 6. Bell switches.

What twisted pair is used for smart home installation? UTP cat. 5? Cat. 6? The twisted pair designations appear to be 5e, 5a, 6e, 6a. Which one is better? Which one should I choose?

I'm using the HomeMatic from EQ-3, which is a system designed for self-assembly. Communication is wired and wireless. There are switch modules for lighting that require 230V (zero in the switch box), but there are also modules for cans that are wired to be controlled by a NO (bell) button. There are also modules typical of hard-wired installation, where the actuating module is located in a central switchboard. The wired modules are fully compatible with the radio modules, so any future expansion does not require forging in walls. They have a fairly wide range for a single brand, including heating systems (underfloor and traditional) and blinds/shutters, opening door locks or windows, and more. In Poland you can buy this at Conrad,pl but they don't have the full range there. The full range can be seen, for example, at Elv.de [edit] The system can be fitted to an existing installation (as long as you use the wireless modules). [edit 2] Furthermore, I believe that some segments should not be combined into one system. E.g. even though Homematic has an alarm system I would never go for that. I use a dedicated alarm system. It is true that the motion sensors of the alarm system are implemented in my HomeMatic, but I can tell you from experience that you put the motion sensor that is supposed to work with the alarm system in a different place and the motion sensor that turns on the light in a different place. If someone thinks that they can base these functionalities on one and the same sensor, they are greatly mistaken, because either one or the other will not work as expected. On top of that, there are security considerations - hence I cannot (although I could) arm/disarm the alarm from the home automation level. I only read its status. Added after 25 [minutes]: . I've had a look at the this and that and I admit that I too like the concept.

Smart Home Wiring: Planning 3x1.5 mm2 Cables & Twisted Pair for Future Automation

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#1 17049863 20 Feb 2018 00:04

ArtyONE ArtyONE

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Post #1
17049863 20 Feb 2018 00:04

Welcome,

I am in the process of starting to put up the walls of the house. I am now planning out the electrics and I still have full discretion on the electrics.
I want to distribute the wiring so that it will be suitable for a smart home system in the future. I don't have a specific system selected.

The questions concern the distribution of cables to individual sockets, lamps etc. so that in the future no re-wiring will be necessary.

1) A socket that I want to be wired for the smart home system:
I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable from the distribution board to the socket plus twisted pair? So two wires?

2) A lamp with a switch on the wall
From the distribution board I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable to the light switch box and from the distribution board, bypassing the box, I run a twisted pair?
Do I run the 3x1.5 mm2 cable directly to the lamp and the twisted pair from the lamp to the light switch?

3) If there are to be several lamps on one circuit (5 meshes in the corridor), how does the above point change? Do the eyelets connect with a twisted pair?

4) Façade blinds (controlled up and down and the angle of the blind slats) with a switch on the wall.
Do I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable from the distribution board to the roller shutter motor and a twisted pair from the roller shutter motor to the switch?

5) Where is the multifunction pushbutton (keypad with several touch fields) to be located - is a twisted pair cable from the switchboard sufficient?

6) Video door phone - which wires?

7) Motion/radiation/temperature detector - what kind of wires?

8) At the water meter, I am planning an automatic watering system - what wires for it?

9) Is the multifunctional pushbutton connected by twisted pair to the lamp switch or does the multifunctional pushbutton act as a switch?

10) Is there power run to the underfloor manifold? 3x1.5 mm2 + twisted pair?

Thank you very much

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#2 17049963 20 Feb 2018 04:45

RebellionArts RebellionArts

Level 23

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Post #2
17049963 20 Feb 2018 04:45

Hello
There are many smart home systems out there, it all really depends. And this can be a problem, because in some systems you need signal cables, and in others only power cables (Fibaro works wirelessly, you only connect power and outputs to devices).
It would be best to find out what kind of system you want, of course, you can throw twisted-pair cables at the walls, but it may turn out to be unnecessary.

The only thing I can recommend now is to lay out your cables intuitively.

1 The question is whether it will be a wireless or wired system. Wireless - only power cables will suffice for everything, no twisted pair. Wired - a socket with a twisted pair cable yes, preferably two boxes at once, a LAN module in one and 230 volts in the other.

If the lamp is to blink or dim in addition to lighting, (assuming the control panel or module is at the switchboard), throw the cables from the lamp and the 3x1.5 switch into the switchboard. And similarly all the wires to the control place, if you have a control module in the switch box then all the wires there.

3 It also all depends on what voltage they will be supplied with. You can throw a twisted pair but it's better to have a regular electric for the lamps. Same as pt. 2.

4. up-down blinds and tilt angle are already 4 functions, to be honest the connection depends on these blinds, I won't take a recipe out of my hat for everything, as the blinds need 230 V power supply and an ordinary twisted pair for switching modes, then you can throw a 3x2.5 power supply from the switchboard and to the switch 2x3x1.5. I used 1.5 mm instead of twisted pair in the example, as it is an alternative that will not deprive you of 230 V control from the switch.

5. yes

6. shielded twisted pair, preferably F/FTP

7.
Movement sensor 6x0.5
Smoke/flame detector YnTKSY 2x2x0.8
Temperature sensor 6x0.5

8 Depends on the valve, what transmitting voltage.

9. no.
Route PPwielofunk. - module - receiver.
As I wrote, it depends on the system, you can have a bolognese system, i.e. different brands of modules, or you can have everything from one manufacturer, in which case the control panel has some inputs and outputs and a bus for expansion with additional input and output modules. The power supply from the control panel goes to the module, the signal from the on/off switch or seniors/sensors goes to the module and goes to the control devices.

10 As a precaution, you can, although I have never derived power/controls from this.
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#3 17050104 20 Feb 2018 08:38

retrofood retrofood

VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl

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Post #3
17050104 20 Feb 2018 08:38

My reservations are.
1. for sockets 3 x 2.5 mm² and not 3 x 1.5 mm².
2. Wherever there may be 230V phase voltage, the minimum wire cross-section is 1.5 mm². Therefore twisted pair only where you are sure that this voltage will not be present.
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#4 17050367 20 Feb 2018 11:16

ArtyONE ArtyONE

Level 6

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Post #4
17050367 20 Feb 2018 11:16

Thank you for your response.

Regarding the choice of system:
I was now at the interior design fair 4DD Katowice and there were several exhibitors of smart home systems.

From the wireless system there was Fibaro. I asked around with them whether to choose a wireless or wired system.
They pointed out the high cost and the lack of possibility to change with wired systems. Easy and quick installation, fully wireless, additional modules can be purchased at any time.

I then visited the Ampio and Nexwell wired stands. Here I found out that Fibaro doesn't work in larger houses due to the distances involved (mine is 250m2) and the high failure rate and communication problems, as well as being condemned to one supplier - Fibaro. I liked the wall modules themselves, the touch buttons much better than the Fibaro.
Therefore, due to the fact that I still have the option to lay the wiring as I wish, I decided to go for a wired system.

What do you guys think? I only estimate at the outset that the wired system will cost several thousand more than the Fibaro.

As far as the installation is concerned (I assume the wired variant with the control panel in or by the switchboard):

From my non-electrical perspective, I interpret the answer as follows. Please check this:

1. where the lighting is, we do not do a twisted pair, but an electrical cable (3 x 1.5 mm2) directly run from the switchboard. And if you want to have a switch/control panel for this light on the wall, you run a twisted pair (low voltage) directly from the switchboard to the location of this switch.

2. where the 230V socket is to be incorporated into the intelligence system, a 3 x 2.5 mm2 cable is laid directly from the distribution board. Is a twisted pair additionally necessary? The sockets cannot be combined, but all power goes from the distribution board each on a separate cable for each socket (otherwise there will be no possibility of control).
#5 17050412 20 Feb 2018 11:33

RebellionArts RebellionArts

Level 23

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Post #5
17050412 20 Feb 2018 11:33

Twisted pair can be but there is no option to change to electric, if it will be three contacts in the key it is better to give 1.5mm

The second point I don't understand, twisted pair is needed as communication is needed between modules / control panel.
You wrote about it yourself so I gave a method of installation
#6 17050451 20 Feb 2018 11:51

retrofood retrofood

VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl

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Post #6
17050451 20 Feb 2018 11:51

ArtyONE wrote:
.
What do you guys think? Just an initial estimate that a wired system will come out several thousand more than Fibaro.
.
I like the LCN system best and I really don't know why it is so little known. Maybe it's because it just requires a decision to be made before the facility is wired, i.e. adding one more wire. It is a fourth network cable ,red, allowing for any expansion and configuration of the installation later.
More on example here .
Aha, the LCN system does not require a control panel, each module is autonomous, which does not mean they cannot work together.

I would further like to inform you that I am not a distributor, representative or have any relationship with the manufacturer, so my post is not an advertisement of any kind.
#7 17050514 20 Feb 2018 12:16

ArtyONE ArtyONE

Level 6

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Post #7
17050514 20 Feb 2018 12:16

Lighting:
One wire: FROM the switchboard 3x1.5mm TO where the lamp will be.
Second cable: FROM the lamp 3x1.5mm TO the switch location or FROM the distribution board 3x1.5mm TO the switch location (ignoring the lamp).
?

230V socket:
One wire: FROM the distribution board 3x2.5mm TO the place where the socket will be
Do you need a second cable? From the distribution board: Twisted-pair cable to the socket?
#8 17051213 20 Feb 2018 17:46

RebellionArts RebellionArts

Level 23

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Post #8
17051213 20 Feb 2018 17:46

Lighting:
A second cable from the switch to the switchboard, depending on which switch, a twisted pair can be thrown in as if there were to be a manipulator-like device there in the future.

Socket:
This is up to you, in total.....
If it is only to supply power to a device, that's OK, but if the device is to communicate with the control panel, which is within a metre radius of the distribution board, then it is best to add a LAN cable, and preferably in the box (the second one - not the one from the 230V socket) next to this socket as another 'socket field'.
#9 17054264 21 Feb 2018 21:29

hubertkoncki hubertkoncki

Level 13

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Post #9
17054264 21 Feb 2018 21:29

Buddy, you're being awfully combinative with these twists.

I'll tell you how I'm doing it at my place now (small renovation of the whole floor).

Lighting:
From the switchboard <---------3x1,5--------------------------------------> Lamp
From the switchgear <---------4x2x0.5 (shielded twisted pair)----------> switch

Sockets:
From the switchboard <---------3x2.5----------> Socket

This connection will guarantee you a connection to virtually any home automation system.

I have installed 3 switches in each of the rooms on the first floor (so far just boxes) with a twisted-pair cable in each.
This gives me the ability to control 6 'devices' from each room, lamps sockets, blinds - whatever you connect and program yourself.

My rule of thumb is that everything I want to control has to be plugged into the switchboard.
Since I also have a garage, I will connect the switchboard in the garage with the one at home using a twisted-pair cable so that both "systems" will work together. Especially since it will be easier to run the cabling in the backyard from the garage.

If you base your home automation on Arduino or Raspery PI or derivative systems then you will save some pennies.
Ready-made automation systems are quite expensive.
#10 18042141 03 Jul 2019 11:58

SkiX SkiX

Level 2

» | Helpful post? (0)

Post #10
18042141 03 Jul 2019 11:58

hubertkoncki wrote:
In each of the rooms on the first floor I have installed 3 switches (just the boxes for now) with a twisted pair in each.
This gives me the ability to control 6 'devices' from each room, lamps sockets, blinds - whatever you connect and program yourself.
.

Why do 3 switches with twisted pairs allow you to control 6 devices? How is this calculated?
#11 18045408 05 Jul 2019 10:32

hubertkoncki hubertkoncki

Level 13

» | Helpful post? (0)

Post #11
18045408 05 Jul 2019 10:32

3 boxes in each we put a two-pole switch, together 3x2 gives us 6.
Bell switches.
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#12 18396773 11 Jan 2020 22:05

ArtyONE ArtyONE

Level 6

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Post #12
18396773 11 Jan 2020 22:05

What twisted pair is used for smart home installation?

UTP cat. 5? Cat. 6? The twisted pair designations appear to be 5e, 5a, 6e, 6a.

Which one is better? Which one should I choose?
#13 18396850 11 Jan 2020 23:13

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

» |

Post #13
18396850 11 Jan 2020 23:13

I'm using the HomeMatic from EQ-3, which is a system designed for self-assembly. Communication is wired and wireless.

There are switch modules for lighting that require 230V (zero in the switch box), but there are also modules for cans that are wired to be controlled by a NO (bell) button.

There are also modules typical of hard-wired installation, where the actuating module is located in a central switchboard. The wired modules are fully compatible with the radio modules, so any future expansion does not require forging in walls. They have a fairly wide range for a single brand, including heating systems (underfloor and traditional) and blinds/shutters, opening door locks or windows, and more.

In Poland you can buy this at Conrad,pl but they don't have the full range there. The full range can be seen, for example, at Elv.de

[edit]
The system can be fitted to an existing installation (as long as you use the wireless modules).

[edit 2]
Furthermore, I believe that some segments should not be combined into one system. E.g. even though Homematic has an alarm system I would never go for that. I use a dedicated alarm system. It is true that the motion sensors of the alarm system are implemented in my HomeMatic, but I can tell you from experience that you put the motion sensor that is supposed to work with the alarm system in a different place and the motion sensor that turns on the light in a different place. If someone thinks that they can base these functionalities on one and the same sensor, they are greatly mistaken, because either one or the other will not work as expected.
On top of that, there are security considerations - hence I cannot (although I could) arm/disarm the alarm from the home automation level. I only read its status.

Added after 25 [minutes]: .

retrofood wrote:
...
I like the LCN system best ...

I've had a look at the "this and that" and I admit that I too like the concept.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion focuses on planning electrical wiring for a smart home system during house construction, emphasizing future-proofing without committing to a specific system initially. Key considerations include whether to install wired or wireless systems, with wired systems favored for larger homes (e.g., 250m²) due to reliability and range. For power sockets, a 3x2.5 mm² cable is recommended over 3x1.5 mm² to handle 230V loads safely. Twisted pair cables are advised primarily for communication signals between modules or control panels, not for carrying mains voltage. For lighting circuits, a 3x1.5 mm² cable from the distribution board to lamps is standard, with additional twisted pair cables run between switches and the switchboard to enable control signals or dimming functions. Multiple lamps on one circuit can be wired in a mesh topology with appropriate cabling. The LCN system is highlighted for its autonomous modules and use of an additional fourth network cable for expansion without a central control panel. The choice of twisted pair cable category (Cat5e, Cat6, etc.) depends on the communication protocol and future-proofing needs. The HomeMatic system from EQ-3 is mentioned as a hybrid wired/wireless solution with modules compatible across installation types, available in European markets. Overall, the consensus is to install power cables with adequate cross-section and supplement with twisted pair or LAN cables for communication, ensuring flexibility for future smart home automation upgrades.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Use 3×2.5 mm² for sockets and 3×1.5 mm² for lighting; “the minimum wire cross-section is 1.5 mm².” Pre-run shielded twisted pair from the switchboard to switches, intercoms, and keypads. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #17050104]

Why it matters: This helps you prewire once and stay compatible with multiple smart-home platforms without reopening walls, ideal for owners planning future automation.

Quick Facts

Baseline sizing: sockets 3×2.5 mm²; lighting 3×1.5 mm²; any path that may carry 230 V must be ≥1.5 mm². [Elektroda, retrofood, post #17050104]
Home-run pattern: switchboard → lamp (3×1.5 mm²) and switchboard → switch (shielded 4×2×0.5) for flexible control. [Elektroda, hubertkoncki, post #17054264]
System choice: wireless (e.g., Fibaro) needs only power; wired needs signal cabling—decide before plastering. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]
Budgeting: expect a wired system to cost several thousand PLN more than a wireless setup in a 250 m² home. [Elektroda, ArtyONE, post #17050367]
Video door phone: run shielded F/FTP twisted pair from switchboard to door station for noise immunity. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

What cable sizes should I use for sockets and lights in a smart-ready home?

Run 3×2.5 mm² to every 230 V socket circuit. Use 3×1.5 mm² to lighting loads. Wherever 230 V may appear, the conductor must be at least 1.5 mm²; do not substitute telecom twisted pair in those paths. Use twisted pair only for low-voltage control or data wiring. This baseline fits many wired or hybrid systems and avoids rewiring when you add modules later. “The minimum wire cross-section is 1.5 mm².” [Elektroda, retrofood, post #17050104]

How should I wire a lamp and wall switch now for future smart control?

Use a home‑run scheme.

From the switchboard to the lamp: 3×1.5 mm².
From the switchboard to the wall switch box: shielded 4×2×0.5.
Land both in the switchboard for future relay/dimmer modules. This layout supports on/off and dimming modules placed centrally, and keeps low‑voltage control separate from mains. It maximizes compatibility with many wired systems and retains wireless options if chosen later. [Elektroda, hubertkoncki, post #17054264]

How do I handle multiple lights on one corridor circuit for automation?

Keep standard 230 V wiring for the luminaires and avoid using twisted pair to carry mains. Bring control points and loads back to the switchboard if your modules live there. If a wall keypad is needed, run a twisted pair to that box from the switchboard. Voltage and control topology determine details, but using regular electrical cable for lamps remains the robust default. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

Do I need twisted pair to every 230 V socket?

No. Power alone is enough unless the device must communicate with a controller. If you anticipate data or IP control, add a LAN cable in a separate box adjacent to the 230 V outlet. Keep ELV and mains physically separated for safety and future serviceability. This keeps options open for smart plugs, PoE devices, or local sensors without mixing voltages in one box. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17051213]

How should I prewire roller shutters or façade blinds with tilt?

Provide a dedicated 230 V feed from the switchboard to the shutter motor, e.g., 3×2.5 mm². For control, run cables to the wall switch location. When unsure, using 1.5 mm² control wiring instead of a thin twisted pair preserves the option of 230 V control. Up/down plus tilt is four functions, so plan enough conductors and module outputs for full motion and slat angle. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

Where should multifunction keypads go, and how do they connect?

Home‑run a twisted pair from the switchboard to each keypad location. These keypads typically signal a module; they do not switch the lamp load directly. Follow the chain: keypad → module → receiver/load. Place keypad boxes at natural switch points to maintain usability. “Route multifunction button – module – receiver.” [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

What cables should I use for motion, smoke/flame, and temperature sensors?

Typical low‑voltage choices: motion sensor 6×0.5 mm, smoke/flame detector YnTKSY 2×2×0.8, and temperature sensor 6×0.5 mm. Terminate these in the switchboard or the relevant control enclosure. Keep them physically separate from mains cabling. This ensures clean signals and simplifies integration with alarm or automation inputs later. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

What cable is best for a video door phone?

Run shielded twisted pair, preferably F/FTP, from the switchboard to the door station. Shielding improves noise immunity for video and audio, especially near mains or outdoor runs. Terminate at the intercom controller or PoE switch as required by the chosen brand. This path also supports upgrades to IP-based door stations later. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

Should I bring power and data to the underfloor heating manifold?

You can run both as a precaution, but many installers do not home‑run power or controls from the manifold. If your control strategy changes, having spare conduits or a twisted pair available can save rework. Confirm the valve and actuator requirements before committing. [Elektroda, RebellionArts, post #17049963]

How can three wall switches control six functions?

Use three boxes, each with a two‑gang momentary (bell) switch. That yields 3×2 = 6 distinct inputs for scenes, lights, or blinds. Map them in your controller or modules. This simple arithmetic scales well and keeps the wall furniture familiar for users. [Elektroda, hubertkoncki, post #18045408]

How should I prewire if I haven’t picked a smart‑home brand yet?

Adopt a home‑run design: bring every controlled load and every switch/keypad back to the switchboard via dedicated cables. This centralizes control and keeps options open for many wired ecosystems. As one practitioner puts it, “Everything I want to control has to be plugged into the switchboard.” This minimizes future chiselling and vendor lock‑in. [Elektroda, hubertkoncki, post #17054264]

Cat5e or Cat6 for smart‑home cabling—what’s the practical choice?

For networked devices, Cat5e supports 1 Gbit/s up to 100 m. Cat6 supports 10 Gbit/s up to 55 m under typical conditions; use Cat6A for 10 Gbit/s to 100 m. Choose based on target speed and run length. Reserve twisted pair for low‑voltage signals or data, never for circuits that may carry 230 V. [TIA, 2018]

Do I need a control panel, or can modules work autonomously?

Some bus systems don’t require a central control panel. The LCN approach uses an added “fourth” conductor in the installation bus, and each module is autonomous yet cooperative. This expands flexibility and reduces single‑point failures while enabling later reconfiguration. It does, however, require deciding the bus during rough‑in. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #17050451]

Can I mix wired and wireless modules later?

Yes, some platforms offer full compatibility between wired and radio modules. One example noted was HomeMatic, which allows expansion without opening walls. You can retrofit wireless where cabling is absent and keep wired where you pre‑ran bus lines. Plan neutrals in switch boxes if the vendor’s in‑box modules need 230 V. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18396850]

Should I merge the alarm system with home automation?

Keep them separate. Alarm sensors and automation sensors often need different placement and behavior. As one user advises, “I would never go for that,” citing both functional and security reasons. You can still read alarm status in automation, but avoid arming/disarming from it. This separation reduces risk from software faults. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18396850]

Is twisted pair ever acceptable where 230 V might appear?

No. Where 230 V phase may be present, use conductors of at least 1.5 mm². Twisted pair is only for low‑voltage circuits and data. Edge case: if 230 V is accidentally routed onto a telecom pair, it violates the minimum cross‑section rule and endangers compliance. Plan control and power cabling distinctly. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #17050104]

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