Smart Home Wiring: Planning 3x1.5 mm2 Cables & Twisted Pair for Future Automation

Welcome,

I am in the process of starting to put up the walls of the house. I am now planning out the electrics and I still have full discretion on the electrics.
I want to distribute the wiring so that it will be suitable for a smart home system in the future. I don't have a specific system selected.

The questions concern the distribution of cables to individual sockets, lamps etc. so that in the future no re-wiring will be necessary.

1) A socket that I want to be wired for the smart home system:
I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable from the distribution board to the socket plus twisted pair? So two wires?

2) A lamp with a switch on the wall
From the distribution board I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable to the light switch box and from the distribution board, bypassing the box, I run a twisted pair?
Do I run the 3x1.5 mm2 cable directly to the lamp and the twisted pair from the lamp to the light switch?

3) If there are to be several lamps on one circuit (5 meshes in the corridor), how does the above point change? Do the eyelets connect with a twisted pair?

4) Façade blinds (controlled up and down and the angle of the blind slats) with a switch on the wall.
Do I run a 3x1.5 mm2 cable from the distribution board to the roller shutter motor and a twisted pair from the roller shutter motor to the switch?

5) Where is the multifunction pushbutton (keypad with several touch fields) to be located - is a twisted pair cable from the switchboard sufficient?

6) Video door phone - which wires?

7) Motion/radiation/temperature detector - what kind of wires?

8) At the water meter, I am planning an automatic watering system - what wires for it?

9) Is the multifunctional pushbutton connected by twisted pair to the lamp switch or does the multifunctional pushbutton act as a switch?

10) Is there power run to the underfloor manifold? 3x1.5 mm2 + twisted pair?

Thank you very much

Hello
There are many smart home systems out there, it all really depends. And this can be a problem, because in some systems you need signal cables, and in others only power cables (Fibaro works wirelessly, you only connect power and outputs to devices).
It would be best to find out what kind of system you want, of course, you can throw twisted-pair cables at the walls, but it may turn out to be unnecessary.

The only thing I can recommend now is to lay out your cables intuitively.

1 The question is whether it will be a wireless or wired system. Wireless - only power cables will suffice for everything, no twisted pair. Wired - a socket with a twisted pair cable yes, preferably two boxes at once, a LAN module in one and 230 volts in the other.

If the lamp is to blink or dim in addition to lighting, (assuming the control panel or module is at the switchboard), throw the cables from the lamp and the 3x1.5 switch into the switchboard. And similarly all the wires to the control place, if you have a control module in the switch box then all the wires there.

3 It also all depends on what voltage they will be supplied with. You can throw a twisted pair but it's better to have a regular electric for the lamps. Same as pt. 2.

4. up-down blinds and tilt angle are already 4 functions, to be honest the connection depends on these blinds, I won't take a recipe out of my hat for everything, as the blinds need 230 V power supply and an ordinary twisted pair for switching modes, then you can throw a 3x2.5 power supply from the switchboard and to the switch 2x3x1.5. I used 1.5 mm instead of twisted pair in the example, as it is an alternative that will not deprive you of 230 V control from the switch.

5. yes

6. shielded twisted pair, preferably F/FTP

7.
Movement sensor 6x0.5
Smoke/flame detector YnTKSY 2x2x0.8
Temperature sensor 6x0.5

8 Depends on the valve, what transmitting voltage.

9. no.
Route PPwielofunk. - module - receiver.
As I wrote, it depends on the system, you can have a bolognese system, i.e. different brands of modules, or you can have everything from one manufacturer, in which case the control panel has some inputs and outputs and a bus for expansion with additional input and output modules. The power supply from the control panel goes to the module, the signal from the on/off switch or seniors/sensors goes to the module and goes to the control devices.

10 As a precaution, you can, although I have never derived power/controls from this.

My reservations are.
1. for sockets 3 x 2.5 mm² and not 3 x 1.5 mm².
2. Wherever there may be 230V phase voltage, the minimum wire cross-section is 1.5 mm². Therefore twisted pair only where you are sure that this voltage will not be present.

Thank you for your response.

Regarding the choice of system:
I was now at the interior design fair 4DD Katowice and there were several exhibitors of smart home systems.

From the wireless system there was Fibaro. I asked around with them whether to choose a wireless or wired system.
They pointed out the high cost and the lack of possibility to change with wired systems. Easy and quick installation, fully wireless, additional modules can be purchased at any time.

I then visited the Ampio and Nexwell wired stands. Here I found out that Fibaro doesn't work in larger houses due to the distances involved (mine is 250m2) and the high failure rate and communication problems, as well as being condemned to one supplier - Fibaro. I liked the wall modules themselves, the touch buttons much better than the Fibaro.
Therefore, due to the fact that I still have the option to lay the wiring as I wish, I decided to go for a wired system.

What do you guys think? I only estimate at the outset that the wired system will cost several thousand more than the Fibaro.



As far as the installation is concerned (I assume the wired variant with the control panel in or by the switchboard):

From my non-electrical perspective, I interpret the answer as follows. Please check this:

1. where the lighting is, we do not do a twisted pair, but an electrical cable (3 x 1.5 mm2) directly run from the switchboard. And if you want to have a switch/control panel for this light on the wall, you run a twisted pair (low voltage) directly from the switchboard to the location of this switch.

2. where the 230V socket is to be incorporated into the intelligence system, a 3 x 2.5 mm2 cable is laid directly from the distribution board. Is a twisted pair additionally necessary? The sockets cannot be combined, but all power goes from the distribution board each on a separate cable for each socket (otherwise there will be no possibility of control).

Twisted pair can be but there is no option to change to electric, if it will be three contacts in the key it is better to give 1.5mm

The second point I don't understand, twisted pair is needed as communication is needed between modules / control panel.
You wrote about it yourself so I gave a method of installation

ArtyONE wrote:

.
What do you guys think? Just an initial estimate that a wired system will come out several thousand more than Fibaro.

.
I like the LCN system best and I really don't know why it is so little known. Maybe it's because it just requires a decision to be made before the facility is wired, i.e. adding one more wire. It is a fourth network cable ,red, allowing for any expansion and configuration of the installation later.
More on example here .
Aha, the LCN system does not require a control panel, each module is autonomous, which does not mean they cannot work together.

I would further like to inform you that I am not a distributor, representative or have any relationship with the manufacturer, so my post is not an advertisement of any kind.

Lighting:
One wire: FROM the switchboard 3x1.5mm TO where the lamp will be.
Second cable: FROM the lamp 3x1.5mm TO the switch location or FROM the distribution board 3x1.5mm TO the switch location (ignoring the lamp).
?

230V socket:
One wire: FROM the distribution board 3x2.5mm TO the place where the socket will be
Do you need a second cable? From the distribution board: Twisted-pair cable to the socket?

Lighting:
A second cable from the switch to the switchboard, depending on which switch, a twisted pair can be thrown in as if there were to be a manipulator-like device there in the future.

Socket:
This is up to you, in total.....
If it is only to supply power to a device, that's OK, but if the device is to communicate with the control panel, which is within a metre radius of the distribution board, then it is best to add a LAN cable, and preferably in the box (the second one - not the one from the 230V socket) next to this socket as another 'socket field'.

Buddy, you're being awfully combinative with these twists.

I'll tell you how I'm doing it at my place now (small renovation of the whole floor).

Lighting:
From the switchboard <---------3x1,5--------------------------------------> Lamp
From the switchgear <---------4x2x0.5 (shielded twisted pair)----------> switch

Sockets:
From the switchboard <---------3x2.5----------> Socket

This connection will guarantee you a connection to virtually any home automation system.

I have installed 3 switches in each of the rooms on the first floor (so far just boxes) with a twisted-pair cable in each.
This gives me the ability to control 6 'devices' from each room, lamps sockets, blinds - whatever you connect and program yourself.

My rule of thumb is that everything I want to control has to be plugged into the switchboard.
Since I also have a garage, I will connect the switchboard in the garage with the one at home using a twisted-pair cable so that both "systems" will work together. Especially since it will be easier to run the cabling in the backyard from the garage.

If you base your home automation on Arduino or Raspery PI or derivative systems then you will save some pennies.
Ready-made automation systems are quite expensive.

hubertkoncki wrote:

In each of the rooms on the first floor I have installed 3 switches (just the boxes for now) with a twisted pair in each.
This gives me the ability to control 6 'devices' from each room, lamps sockets, blinds - whatever you connect and program yourself.

.

Why do 3 switches with twisted pairs allow you to control 6 devices? How is this calculated?

3 boxes in each we put a two-pole switch, together 3x2 gives us 6.
Bell switches.

What twisted pair is used for smart home installation?

UTP cat. 5? Cat. 6? The twisted pair designations appear to be 5e, 5a, 6e, 6a.

Which one is better? Which one should I choose?