Wiring Shelly 1 for Dual Control: Phone and Key Switch Setup

Question

Good morning, I am asking for help in connecting the relay Shelly 1 in such a way that it is possible to switch on/off the lighting using the key and the telephone (the point is that one should not exclude the other. I would also ask you to check that the jumper in the relay is set to 230 v (as...

enigma · Answer

For something like this to work is the basic question, do you have full L and N at the site or just a break in the circuit?
If option 2ga then it won't work. You will close the circuit but there will be a reset when you switch.

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Generally, just searching in G takes about 2-3s -> https://shelly.cloud/shelly1-open-source/

ble987654 · Answer

Thank you for the link to check the jumper and at the same time I apologise for my laziness. I was indeed able to search on my own for this information

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My question, however, is whether I am able to verify on my own "do you have full L and N in place or just a break in the circuit? " e.g. with a multimeter ? if so how and what do I need to check ?

Brivido · Answer

Pull all the wires out of the box, are there connectors/more wires than just to the switch?

ble987654 · Answer

Is there any other way to check ? The box at the top is unfortunately already plastered and painted over

Brivido · Answer

So another 'old installation' with boxes at the top, and then combining how to connect electronic switches....

ble987654 · Answer

I don't know if a 4 year old installation is an old installation, this is not the subject of the topic. If it is even rebuildable, is there anything wrong with combining to modify it to something newer ? Really?

enigma · Answer

If the installation is, as you write, 4 years old, then according to the standards it should be done with L and N to the switch and from it go on to the lamp. You didn't write if this is new construction. If it is, then there is no stick it has to be like that, unless it is old construction and only the installation has been "improved" to save money.

Generally, no offence but if you are having trouble identifying the correctness of the installation or how it is done then maybe it is better not to correct anything, it is a waste of life.

ble987654 · Answer

The house is newly built all installation done by and installer with qualifications. I can see that more hassle than benefit has come out of the modification idea and my lack of knowledge.
I will contact the installer and if he finds time I will ask him for consultation and help.
With relays such as shelly or blebox or even others, you can really cool and with an idea to configure and automate many devices and lighting. I have an idea of how the whole thing should be arranged, but apparently I have too little technical knowledge.
Once I've worked out the details with the installer, I'll try to let you know if and how I managed to solve this.

omnixcrs · Answer

Simple, get your hands on the simplest multimeter, pull the switch out of the box and now do the following: the wires connected to the switch are 99% phase to one of them (the one on which the test tube/neon tube is lit), connect one of the wires of the multimeter and the other to the other wires in the box and look until you have 230VAC on the meter. If you find this configuration it means you have full power in the box. Just note that one of the wires between which the 230 will be may be a protective conductor.

stasiekm · Answer

Plastered boxes are technically pathology in the name of a smooth wall. From the photo it appears that you have a double or stair switch so you don't have the N necessary to power Shelly 1. Without ripping up the wall you can fit Shelly in a light fitting as long as there is space, the photo shows a candlestick switch not a stair switch and you are prepared to give up sectioning the fitting - light the whole thing.

Wiring Shelly 1 for Dual Control: Phone and Key Switch Setup

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