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First 3D printer purchase - Creality Ender 3 Pro - My impression, review

p.kaczmarek2 34404 87
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  • #32 18432029
    jariko
    Level 17  
    we have been practising the ender for a year now. The magnetic washer has had its day so I cut the glass plate. I corrected the poor adhesion with painter's tape :( . I then tested the office glue. Now the most promising track record of improved adhesion is given by rosin. I dissolved it in spirit and smeared it on. The evaporated layer was not very smooth. The part did not fall off, but the unevenness of the rosin was visible. I wanted to let it go and started washing it off with spirit. And after rough washing, I got a very thin and even sticky layer. After heating the table, the rosin improves its adhesion even more (we are going at 60 degrees). And the prints are very smooth after peeling off. The cost of rosin is negligible, as isopropene spirit. I am curious to hear your opinions if you decide to try it.
  • #33 18432042
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    jariko wrote:
    I dissolved it in spirit and smeared it on. The evaporated layer was not very smooth. The part did not fall off, but the unevenness of the rosin was visible. I was about to let it go and started washing it off with spirit. And after a rough washing off, I got a very thin and even sticky layer.

    which means you have too much rosin in the spirit, you still need to dilute it and after painting it should be ok, without additional wiping.
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  • #34 18432052
    jariko
    Level 17  
    i have only been playing with rosin for a few days. And I already know more or less experimentally what the lubricated glass should look like. It is possible to achieve an almost invisible and sticky layer. I'm waiting for the next shipment of IPA because I'm running on fumes. I will continue testing.
  • #35 18432082
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    You can also use pure (clear) denatured alcohol.
  • #36 18482789
    dziabi2
    Level 12  
    Andrzej Ch. wrote:
    Interesting topic.
    I would like to seek your opinion, because at the moment I am using ender3 pro without any modifications regarding the motherboard. the only things I have installed other than "shop" are, as I mentioned before, a 0.2 mm diameter nozzle (I will change to 0.5-0.6 mm), a metal guide with a filament presser and I have replaced the flexible mat with glass (it also seems to me to be crooked during levelling or the whole structure is dislocated on a flat table.... i don't know myself anymore, that's why....
    Reading your posts, I am thinking of buying an auto-leveling system (bltouch) for sure, and secondly a motherboard that will support this and at the same time have drivers to make the printer quieter.
    As far as bltouch is concerned, the matter is rather simple, while someone mentioned the NC sensor, but somehow I cannot find any more information on this subject. Is it better, is it worse (it is said to be safer). Please provide a little more information on this subject.
    I have found information that good replacements for the motherboard are (without hardware modification) the Creality 1.1.5 model (with what default software ?? Merlin ???) and e.g. SKR mini E3 with Merlin 2.0 on board.
    Essential question to those who have an idea, is it better to buy the SKR mini (v 1.2) or the Creative 1.1.5 board.
    What does this look like in practice.
    As I understand it the BLtouch module will work here and here.
    Interestingly, it is possible to connect a colour LCD touch display to the SKR mini E3.



    At a further stage I'm thinking about an extruder, but that's the next stage after replacing the components I wrote about above.

    Finally, one more question, when replacing the motherboard, do you have to re-calibrate the x, y and z axes and the extruder or can you rewrite the values to the new board. I suspect that if the hardware and drivers have changed then the calibration has to be done from scratch. Is this correct ?



    I have a skr mini e3 v1.2 board fitted in an enderk 3 pro and indeed the motors are inaudible but :
    - the original board handles better at the edges , practically no lip or otherwise shooting through.
    in order for the skr mini e3 to match the original board, it has to have a terribly exasperated breakaway , acceleration ( about 3 times more )
    - On the original board the temperature reading is stable, on skr mini e3 it jumps like stupid. I used external mosfets and it is better.
    - Display TFT35 E3 V3.0 is some kind of failure, constantly screwed up, I disconnected reset from rs232 line and it's seemingly ok but this display lives its own life. It could abort prints at the magic 87% or 89% progress.
    I disconnected this display and installed the original one because the original menu gives many more options.
    It's just that the software of this colour display is not perfect and miracles happen.

    In summary, don't rush to replace the original ender 3 board because you will make hours of worry and testing.
    If it wasn't for my foolish passion to upgrade at all costs I would have gone back to the original ender 3 board a long time ago.
    It is very possible that I will still do so at some point.
  • #37 18482810
    Andrzej Ch.
    Level 33  
    dziabi2 wrote:
    I have the skr mini e3 v1.2 board fitted in the enderk 3 pro and indeed the motors are inaudible but :
    - the original board handles better at the edges , virtually no lip or otherwise shooting through.
    in order for the skr mini e3 to match the original board, it has to have a terribly exasperated breakaway , acceleration ( about 3 times more )
    - On the original board the temperature reading is stable, on skr mini e3 it jumps like stupid. I used external mosfets and it is better.
    - Display TFT35 E3 V3.0 is some kind of failure, constantly screwed up, I disconnected reset from rs232 line and it's seemingly ok but this display lives its own life. It could abort prints at the magic 87% or 89% progress.
    I disconnected this display and installed the original one because the original menu gives many more options.
    It's just that the software of this colour display is not perfect and miracles happen.

    In summary, don't rush to replace the original ender 3 board because you will make hours of worry and testing.
    If it wasn't for my foolish passion to upgrade at all costs I would have gone back to the original ender 3 board a long time ago.
    It is very possible that I will still do this at some point.


    Thank you very much for your very well prepared and comprehensive reply. Admittedly, I already have the skr minie3 1.2 motherboard, the display too, but I haven't set about modifying it yet. I wonder if others also have similar problems with these SKR boards. I think it is that the software is to blame, maybe there is some hidden potential here.
    I haven't come across any other users having similar problems to the ones you described.
    Maybe it's a matter of a faulty unit, or maybe someone has an opinion on the subject ?
    In that case, maybe someone has tested the latest motherboard from Ender (1.1.5 I think) for ender 3 / ender 3 pro printers ?
    Maybe this board will be some compromise between running culture and print quality ?

    Ps. I have a similar passion for improvement as you and also if something is wrong I share my insights.
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  • #38 18488130
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    I have "almost" a 1.1.5, as I have a TMC2208 soldered into a 1.1.3 board ;) It's quiet, nothing happens apart from the layers skipping. Apparently the problem could be that the stepstick is too hot, but how much truth in that I don't know.... I need to put a heatsink on and check.
  • #39 18488333
    Andrzej Ch.
    Level 33  
    siewcu wrote:
    I have "almost" 1.1.5, because I have a TMC2208 soldered into a 1.1.3 board ;) It's quiet, nothing happens except that the layers jump. Apparently the problem could be that the stepstick is too hot, but how much truth in that I don't know.... I need to put a heatsink on and check.


    Yes, if you don't have a heatsink it will be the stepstick's fault.
    Can you provide the source you used to modify the TMC2208 on the 1.1.3 board ?
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  • #41 18716206
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    siewcu wrote:
    This is the extruder, not the extruder feeder.
    If you're already clinging, the extruder is the whole thing, and these levers are part of the press. I also had this lever broken, in fact I bought a (used) printer with this lever already broken. I first glued it together and, pressing the filament by hand, printed a new one with PLA.... it even worked somehow, eventually I put on an aluminium extruder pressure mechanism.
    siewcu wrote:
    Just like any program that uses USB-COM adapters...
    Not counting the typo, not every program does this.... usually you select in the program which port to use and only block it when the port is opened, not as "pro forma" as CURA does.

    Regarding not pulling the adhesive pad off the table, opinions are divided, I just take it off so I don't move the table by wrestling with unsticking the print from it. Only I have 3 not 3 PRO, so I have a laminate pad.... the table is actually a bit crooked, slightly convex in the middle and the left edge goes down. As the left edge is printing primer, I glued a strip of paper there and it's ok, as before it didn't stick to the table, it just dragged behind the head.

    I also changed the power supply for the electronics fan, so that it runs all the time (I connected it together with the hot-end cooling), because by default it is connected in parallel with the print cooling, which by default is switched off, e.g. when printing a substrate.

    When I print without a Raft substrate, the first layer is always a bit flattened, but with a table like this I don't think there's anything you can do about it.

    I have python 1.1.4 and will probably stay with it, Marlin firmware 1.1.9, MightyCore bootloader (fork of OptiBoot). The old firmware (1.0.x should definitely be updated, due to the lack of protection against temperature sensor failure).
  • #42 18720438
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    tzok wrote:
    Old firmware (1.0.x should definitely be updated, due to lack of protection against temperature sensor failure).

    And that's interesting, because I haven't touched the firmware - and have no intention of doing so - and the protection is there.
  • #43 18720577
    pitron
    Level 24  
    Plug in OctoPrint and you will immediately be informed that your software is a security risk.
  • #44 18720581
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    siewcu wrote:
    And that's interesting, because I haven't touched the firmware - and have no intention of doing so - and the protection is there.
    It isn't, and the manufacturer itself warns against it. If the controller sees any reading lower than the set temperature (e.g. through shorted thermistor leads, or the thermistor peeling off the table), it will fire at 100%. There are documented cases of printer fires with this firmware. Newer firmware checks if the temperature rises when the heater is turned on - if there is no response for 20 seconds, it reports a sensor error and shuts down the heater: https://creality.com/info/ender-3-ender-3-pro...5-firmware-source-code-upgraded-i00025i1.html

    So far I've had Marlin 1.1.9.1 software, today I upgraded to 2.0.5.3 but haven't printed anything yet. In the original software it is also impossible to set the offset of the 0.0 point (it falls off the table), and on top of that on Auto Home it hits the axis stops with a lot of force because it doesn't slow down at the end of the movement.
  • #45 18722110
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    Well, apparently I already have the updated version. And I don't need octoprint for anything.

    By the way, in the firmware made available for the 2018 ender by creality, thermal runaway is already enabled by default in the firmware.
  • #46 18722364
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    I have an Ender-3 from December 2018 and it didn't have .... there was a soft 1.0.0. Anyway, I recommend Marlin 2.0.5.3. Finally the file browser works reasonably normally and there is a confirmation of the selected file before printing, on top of that the table does not "bang" on the stops.
  • #47 18723742
    pitron
    Level 24  
    siewcu wrote:
    Actoprint is not necessary for me for anything.

    I often turn the printer on remotely to avoid wasting time. It has full online viewing and notifications + camera and table lighting.
  • #48 18724264
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    I don't use the hardware like that, except that I've enabled remote control via repetier once in 1.5 years, as I was printing a fairly complex part and in fact one of the first with new filament. USB to laptop, IP camera and no problem.... When I need such functionality I'll think about it, for now putting it on the basis of "maybe one day it will be useful and maybe not" doesn't make sense to me.
  • #49 18725690
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    I thought the complaints about the filament feed tube were exaggerated.... however, no. Also, I strongly recommend replacing the PTFE tube attachment with a non-through one and inserting a piece of better quality PTFE tube into the hot-end, as the end of the one from the kit for me.... melted.

    You can tell when something is wrong with the PTFE tube - the printer, especially at the beginning of printing, has a problem with feeding the filament, the extruder drive skips (with better pressure) or slides (with the original plastic lever). Another symptom is filament threads dragging behind the head. Despite these symptoms, there was no visible lack of filament in the printed object. In the initial stage of the fault, the problem only occurs at the beginning of the print.

    In my case, there was no filament leakage between the tube and the nozzle, but melting of the tube tip and undercutting of the tube at the clamp - I screwed it up so well....
  • #50 18727201
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    Acutely the pulling of the threads behind the head has nothing to do with melted Teflon in the heatbreak, in my case it is pulling and the heatbreak is metal.
  • #51 18727360
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    tzok wrote:

    especially at the beginning of the print has a problem with the feeding of the filament, the extruder drive skips (with better pressure) or slips (with the original plastic lever).

    This could also be a symptom of problems with the fan that cools the filament just before it heats up, this:
    First 3D printer purchase - Creality Ender 3 Pro - My impression, review
    When this fan is not working, the heat from the heatbreak goes up too much and the filament overheats prematurely, over time clogging the whole mechanism.
    This problem can be found online under the name ' heat creep '
    And the fan itself tends to pull in filament threads sometimes, which can cause problems; I had to clean it once, but generally it's enough to keep an eye on whether it works at all.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #52 18728661
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    siewcu wrote:
    The pulling of the filaments behind the head has nothing to do with melted Teflon in the heatbreak, in my case it pulls and the heatbreak is metal.
    It may have, in my case replacing this tube solved the problem. The high resistance of the filament makes retraction difficult or even impossible. Of course the slicer (or rather its settings) is also important.

    I've just finished plugging the nozzle, after it got clogged with some "fuzz" that was in the filament.

    By the way - as far as I'm concerned, the factory extruder in Ender 3 has 98 steps per mm, not 93 as the default setting.
  • #53 18730085
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    And I haven't moved anything and it works. Strange, isn't it? And a lot of people who have changed this when some problems arise have found restoring the factory settings helps. I haven't moved it, I'm not going to, and I'll advise anyone against changing it if it solves all sorts of weird printing problems that nothing else helps.

    Unless, of course, the factory had anticipated that this particular piece would come to me on its way through various warehouses etc., took it to the workshop, set everything up, changed the firmware, dismantled the table, rearranged the frame so that a simple one wouldn't accidentally arrive, packed it up and sent it off.
  • #54 18730115
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Strange, because I didn't move either and it stopped working after half a roll of filament.... also, from what you write, it's not working for you either, because the threads are pulling behind the head. If it works well, they don't pull.
  • #55 18731124
    siewcu
    Level 35  
    Oh, it's now instead of melted Teflon in the heatbreak that the number of extruder steps is to blame? I fiddle with the settings is the problem, I manage to hit it then there are no strange unwanted effects. I'm already overlooking the fact that the number of extruder steps affects both ways, not one. Unless I haven't found an option to set the number of steps for retraction separately....
  • #56 18731370
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    If you put a piece of filament in with a 10cm section marked on it and tell it to extend by 100mm, it should extend by that much, and with the default setting it doesn't extend by the full 10cm. Trying it with the tube stretched out means the filament comes out 'in the air'.

    Obviously this works both ways and is not related to "threading". "Flossing" is either a matter of slicer settings, or too much resistance to moving the filament - a squashed or fused tube, or a gap between the tube and the head (but you have a non-fabricated solution that eliminates this problem). The metal heatbreak also unfortunately encourages this (not an ideal solution). The factory heatbreak is also metal, but the PTFE tube goes through it and reaches the 'nozzle' itself. Ideally, the filament should only melt in the nozzle, while the metal heatbreak unfortunately heats up and the filament softens in it, which reduces the retraction efficiency.
  • #57 18731374
    mkpl
    Level 37  
    The Ender 3 has a defect. This defect manifests itself when printing above 220*C. It concerns the loss of properties of this "Teflon" tube at high temperatures. As it reaches the nozzle itself, it begins to glaze and clamp onto the filament. In addition, if you switch off the printer without cooling the head, the end of the tube becomes blocked.

    I yesterday knocked off the original hearbreak and bought a fullmetal in china. I would advise against fitting the fullmetal kit from china as it is weak. The original heatsink has much denser fins, plus the heatbreak is too short and goes too deep into the heatsink.

    In practice, you should take the hearbreak alone from the kit. Put a couple of m3 washers in the original head and only the Chinese heatbreak. This should be done so that it enters the heatsink only as far as required. Then screw the whole head together as in the original. This time the Teflon tube only reaches the pads, so it will not melt and clog.

    This solution is ideal for materials printed at temperatures of 220*C and above. PLA can cause minor problems, but on PET G it goes great. An additional advantage of this solution is the "eternal" tube, which does not need to be trimmed every now and then :)
  • #58 18731379
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    I have so far:
    First 3D printer purchase - Creality Ender 3 Pro - My impression, review
  • #59 18731596
    mkpl
    Level 37  
    This is a good modification with PTFE split but not on the factory PTFE, which starts to swell with temperature. The problem is the PTFE tube tip deforming and blocking (sticking) with the filament.
  • #60 18731655
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    I know, I wrote about it, but if you print only PLA and do not exceed 200 *C then even the factory tube will do, only you need to cut precisely so that it does not bend/move when twisting, or you need to make a slot in the washer for this tube.
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