Connecting a wall switch to a FOX Shutter module - configuration and diagram

Hi, I would like to ask for help with the connection of the fox shutter module.

So far it looks like this. In the module:
1 on the left is the wire from the shutter that raises it up.
The 2 on the left is the wire from the shutter that lowers it.
3 on the left is the N from the power supply. (all the N from the blinds clipped together with the N from the power supply, I added an extra wire to the cube and connected it to the module).
The 4 on the left is the L from the power supply.
Is this ok?

The question is how to connect the wall switch now?
If I connect the up/down control to the switch and then to the control unit in S1 and S2 (5th and 6th input from the left), what then? In the wall switch there is then one place left with the description L.

I have uploaded a diagram and a real photo below.

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Added after 5 [hours] 21 [minutes]:

---- Update ----

So far I've done the configuration via the app and it works remotely, but I still don't have the connector connected.

Generally there is voltage on S1 and on S2 (5th and 6th from the left) all the time. Is a diagram like the one below OK? Is this how it should be connected?

1 left - from motor, direction down
2 left - from motor, direction up
3 left - extra cable from the cube (all N from the blinds connected in the cube together with N from the power supply, I added an extra wire to the cube and connected it to the module)
4 left - L from power supply
5 from left (S2) - additional wire going in the down direction in the connector
6 left (S1) - additional wire going in up direction in the connector
There should be an L from the power supply (branched wire in the wago) connected to the connector in the L field?

In this configuration there is still voltage on the switch in each of the 3 inputs. Surely it is only when the button is pressed that a particular circuit closes and the shutter goes up/down? Previously, the voltage on the switch was still on the L input, and only appeared on the directional input when the wall button was pressed. This probably blocked both directions from being accidentally pressed? Although the switch itself has a mechanical interlock, it is not possible to press both directions at the same time.

I would appreciate an explanation. Thanks!

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The control is N, so it's drawn (red) not to L but to N (blue wire)

Only then will the current go to the whole cube with the N connected together. There is still current on S1 and S2 in the module. When I connect S1 and S2 respectively in the directions to the connector, there is already a constant current on the directions on the connector. If I connect a new cable to the L on the connector and connect the other side of the cable to the N block, every time I press the connector the current is transferred to the N block. Is this OK?

kannill112 wrote:

There is still current on S1 and S2 in the module

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Checked with a neon lamp?
If yes then it is fine.

Yes, I checked with a tester. It doesn't matter what the module does or doesn't do, current is still applied to S1 and S2.
From the L field in the connector, it doesn't matter if I connect to the N field in the module or the N collecting block?

²Everything is OK I'm not going to do a lecture. N no matter where you get it from.
If you are scared then close your eyes and plug in .

I just didn't want to blow up the blinds, and wanted to learn something at the same time .
I wired as you wrote, but a strange thing happened with the switch. So far (without the module) when I pressed the down button it would travel down until I held the button. I let go of the button it would stop. That is, I was only applying current when I held down the wall button.
Now, if I briefly (click it) press the down button, it goes all the way down without holding the button. To stop it e.g. in the middle of the window I have to click again. On the other hand, if I hold the button down for longer than a click, e.g. two/three seconds, it only moves for the time I hold the button down. What is the problem?

kannill112 wrote:

Now as briefly ....(I click it)

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This is a property of the controller itself (its software) nothing you can do about it.
It works in a similar way to a car's el. window - you just have to get used to the way it is operated.

Ok, so I didn't mess anything up that the switch got new functionality .
As long as it is cool because if I want to lower a blind halfway from a wall button, I don't have to hold the button down, just click briefly and wait until it reaches the desired position and then click briefly again and it stops. When controlling the tilt of the slats, this is a bit of a nuisance. Turning the slats from horizontal to vertical takes about 1.3 seconds. When I want to tilt them halfway I have to be like a ninja, click quickly and click again so that they only turn slightly .

I wanted to get back to the subject of this controller, it's all about directions.
I control the blind "in the short term", i.e. I add a directional wire to the L of the power supply. I add the brown wire going down, I add the black wire going up. I plug the wires into the control unit in this configuration (brown wire going down in the control unit, black wire going up in the control unit) and it turns out that it works the other way round. What is the issue here? Could it be to do with the controller controlling the blind via N and therefore the directions are swapped? I have several control units for all the windows and it is generally the same in all of them so it is unlikely to be a manufacturing fault.

Hello, I am writing because I have a problem with this controller. I have an installation in a new building made in such a way that all the wires go to the distribution board from the buttons and from the blinds (there were supposed to be blinds controlled by SUPLA SRW-02M, but there are blinds by F$F FOX Shutter). When connected according to the diagram, all blinds work correctly when controlled from the application. However, when I connect the buttons, the 4 shutters which are relatively close to the switchgear work correctly and the other relays go crazy as if they were constantly getting open/closed signals. It is unlikely that 5 wires are faulty. I've lost my mind and I don't know where to look for a solution, maybe the distance affects the operation of this relay because it is designed to work in a box where there is only a piece of space to the button. Please help and regards.

Hello

A fairly common and well-known problem. In SUPLI as well as many other solutions you will probably have the same. The installation is usually laid in the wall in such a way that the phase, neutral and control conductor are run with one 3-core cable. As a result, the capacitance between these wires is already at the level of several nF, which causes current leakage. Due to the size of the back-up devices and the limited potential for loss power, the inputs are implemented as voltage inputs. This makes the inputs very sensitive to such situations. The easiest way is to add a capacitor in parallel for the mains voltage between the input and the L or N signal, depending on which level the input is triggered from. A similar situation often occurs with led bulbs and buttons in a staircase configuration. There, too, it is sometimes necessary to add such a capacitor in parallel to the bulb to neutralise its glow. Use a mains voltage capacitor of a dozen or so nF (in the range of about 20 - 150 nF) and you will forget about the problem.