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Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank

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Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B storage tank by using the drain valve port?

Yes, but only if the heater physically clears the internal coil; the top connections are a bad idea because they have plastic inserts and water-guide tubes, so the drain valve port is the proper place to try [#19977708][#19977796] The fit is not universal: the exact coil position and tank version vary, so before buying it is worth opening the drain, probing the opening with a rod of the heater’s length, and checking whether anything blocks it [#20401317][#21846475] If it fits, the best solution is to screw the heater directly into the tank connector; later notes say not to use a tee or extension because that can create an overheating section on the heater body [#20388828][#20715446] People reported successful installs in VIH R 150/6 B with a 900 W heater, and in similar tanks with 1.2 kW, but mainly as auxiliary heating rather than the only DHW source [#20935498][#20961672]
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  • #31 20208320
    wojtek270864
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    I ordered and received the heater, but the tee was removed from the set. The supplier advised me to order it separately.
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  • #32 20212224
    marekmieszkanie1
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    1 Has anyone tried to attach this heater to a 150 L tank? Is there a collision or not?
    2 or according to the answer to the heater shows that it will not cause excessive wear of the anode in the tank? (about circulating currents)

    Greetings, Marek
  • #33 20255955
    marendil
    Level 11  
    Posts: 36
    Rate: 2
    I just tried to mount this heater https://egrzalki.pl/pl/p/Grzalka-do-grznika-lazienkowego-2000W-GTN,-biala/1420 in the VIH R 120/6 B tank.
    Unfortunately, I do not recommend it, there is an element protruding from the top (perhaps a coil) that makes it impossible to screw in this heater (It draws in one place and does not allow you to screw in the muff) PLN 300 was wasted.

    Ps. This element protrudes exactly 8 cm from the entrance.
  • #34 20388710
    luuk6666
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    marendil wrote:
    Unfortunately, I do not recommend it, there is an element protruding from the top (perhaps a coil) that makes it impossible to screw in this heater (It draws in one place and does not allow you to screw in the muff) PLN 300 was wasted.


    And it was not possible to check with a flashlight or possibly insert a tube with the length of the heater to check if there is a place?
    Then you could return the heater, because it is not mounted.

    I repeat the question, maybe someone tried to install the heater in the place of the drain valve in the VIH R 150/6 B tank?
    You could order a heater, drain the water, unscrew the valve, check it as I wrote above and if there is a place to mount it, if not return the heater.
  • #35 20388828
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    You have to try. Apparently, each tank and its coil may be slightly different. It is enough that the socket for the drain valve will be welded at a different angle, it is significant at a distance of 50 cm.

    One more note:
    when I screwed the heater into the 120L tank, I used a tee (to which I screwed the drain so that it was) and a short extension. It turned out that the heater must be screwed directly into the tank connector without any extensions and a tee. The point is that in this short section there is water that does not receive heat properly, which causes overheating of the element of the heater housing!
  • #36 20389117
    luuk6666
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    Thanks, I don't think you have any choice but to do it yourself.
    I plan to screw the heater directly into the tank, i.e. completely get rid of the drain valve.
    The installation is 4 years old and so far there has been no need to use the valve. Are there any disadvantages of such a solution, in what situations is the water from the tank drained? And if needed, couldn't I just unscrew the heater?
  • #37 20389275
    RafalMu
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Hello, has anyone tried the said operation for the Vih R 200 tank?
  • #38 20391911
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    luuk6666 wrote:
    I don't think you have any choice but to do it yourself

    Nobody can do it better than yourself ;-)

    luuk6666 wrote:
    I plan to screw the heater directly into the tank, i.e. completely get rid of the drain valve.

    The right concept.

    luuk6666 wrote:
    in what situations is the water from the tank drained? And if needed, couldn't I just unscrew the heater?

    When you need to replace the tank or move it away because something broke behind it and there is no possibility of any other repair - but it is very rare.
    Sometimes to flush out limescale or crap from the hopper.

    Draining the water by unscrewing the heater is a bad idea - unless you have a drain in the room and you can afford to flood the room.

    Water can be "blown out" with a compressor - disconnect DHW and ZW, connect an adapter to the compressor to the DHW connector, and drain the sewage hose to the ZW connector, and you can get rid of the ZW almost to the end.

    Added after 54 [seconds]:

    RafalMu wrote:
    Hello, has anyone tried the said operation for the Vih R 200 tank?

    The same situation as with the hopper 120 and 150 L. It all depends on the specific model.
  • #39 20392116
    luuk6666
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    ls_77 wrote:
    Draining the water by unscrewing the heater is a bad idea - unless you have a drain in the room and you can afford to flood the room.


    I have a grate, but I'd rather not flood the room :) , I think I would prefer to unscrew the anode and drain the water gravitationally with a hose.
    I have already ordered a heater, but a different one than you stated, namely 1200W for PLN 175. It is shorter, the heating element is 37cm, maybe it will matter.
    I think the power will be ok, because I don't need fast heating, only constant temperature maintenance, and in the event of a sudden drop, the gas boiler will heat up.
    Anyway, I'll let you know if anything comes of it.
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  • #40 20401317
    luuk6666
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    marekmieszkanie1 wrote:
    1 Has anyone tried to attach this heater to a 150 L tank? Is there a collision or not?


    marendil wrote:
    Unfortunately, I do not recommend it, there is an element protruding from the top (perhaps a coil) that makes it impossible to screw in this heater (It draws in one place and does not allow you to screw in the muff) PLN 300 was wasted.


    I'm just after a test on a 150L tank. I confirm that the heater cannot be inserted horizontally, something is blocking it from above. Therefore, it cannot be screwed in. I bought a 1200W heater with a length of 37cm, so shorter than the one mentioned above, but it doesn't matter, because the blockage is practically right from the edge of the tank. So good that I can return the heater.
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  • #41 20543918
    Lelon007
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 4
    I am after trying to screw the 2000W heater from the link provided to the VIH R 120/6 M tank (better insulation and production in Germany). Unfortunately, the heater does not go straight in, so there is no chance of its assembly. The length of the heater is not a problem because it hits something right at the entrance.

    Maybe someone wants to buy a new, unused 2kW heater at a good price :)
  • #42 20586187
    vincitore
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 4
    Hello.
    I was able to install the heater without any problems and everything works great.
    Vaillant VIH 120 tank
    Attachments:
    • Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank 20230518_223403.jpg (834.13 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #43 20586237
    Lelon007
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 4
    Well, congratulations - I have the better boiler with thicker insulation, maybe it matters. Or it's just a lottery on how the coil is arranged.

    I stand by offers to sell my heater. Brand new not used (apart from a failed attempt to screw). Bought for PLN 324, selling for PLN 150...
  • #44 20619450
    rbalog
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Installation of a heater with a thermostat is unnecessary, it is for rooms, look for heaters without a thermostat that are much cheaper.
    I installed a heater from Proecosolar.pl, a special one for tanks, and luckily it was short because I had only 40 cm of space in the tank.
    https://proecosolar.eu/pl/electric-heaters/55...-1000-w-36cm-g-12-cassette-5902734702234.html Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank
    also available on allegro for PLN 58.
    you don't even need a controller because there is no possibility of overheating the tank - a tuya or shelly socket is enough.

    You just need to enlarge the hole in the housing a bit, because I had an off-center in relation to the holes and the gasket was badly arranged.
    I also sealed it with tow to be sure.
    Only one heater was needed because I have raised voltage only on one phase. Someone has a single phase inverter and bears the voltage on that phase.
  • #45 20638772
    shysheq
    Level 11  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 1
    Hello!
    I confirm that the heater that @rbalog wrote about perfectly fits the VIH R 120/5 tank.
    They are available with more power, which makes them longer, but for me the max was 40cm, so I also installed 1kW.
    The heater is controlled with ESP8266 which reads data from the furnace and from the inverter.
    For safety, I connected a thermostat in series:
    https://allegro.pl/oferta/termostat-z-kapilara-50-c-300-c-16a-250v-13708330897

    Kiss!
  • #46 20663435
    rademe
    Level 11  
    Posts: 61
    Rate: 38

    >>20619450
    And here the question arises: How long does it take for the water to heat up?
    I know that it depends on the start and end temps, but a 120l tank is a small tank and a 1000W heater is also a baby and if someone takes a shower and uses all the hot water, the next user has to wait a very long time for his bath. Does that even make sense?
  • #47 20666140
    shysheq
    Level 11  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 1
    Today, from 30.4 degrees C to 42.4 degrees C, the water was heated for 98 minutes.
    This heater is just a way to increase self-consumption from PV and small savings on gas. All the time, the main source of water heating remains a gas stove, but from the beginning of June the stove was turned on only on Saturday nights to heat the water due to Legionella.
    There are two people in the house, which is probably why it works quite well.
  • #48 20666147
    rademe
    Level 11  
    Posts: 61
    Rate: 38
    shysheq - you convinced me to consider another method of using the PV energy, for example, connecting an electric heater in some room in winter.
    I must admit that I have such a VIH120 tank, but inserting a 1000W heater into it is now nonsense with four household members.
  • #49 20670136
    vincitore
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 4

    Hello,
    I set up a 2000 kWh heater at the end of May in a 120L tank and I hardly use gas. The water heats up to 60 degrees and 4 people can easily wash themselves. In May, the consumption is 80 kWh and in June 164 kWh, but of course it is set so that it balances everything to zero per hour. During this period, I used about 2m3 of gas to heat the water on cloudy days and sometimes in the morning.
    In general, it takes 3 hours or 6 kWh to heat a tank whose water is 30 degrees. In July, I did not use gas yet, only that I was away from home for 2 weeks. The heater is controlled by a remotely regulated time socket.
  • #50 20676307
    gosciniakkrzysztof
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1

    Hi Vincitore, did you mount the heater to the radiator with a thermostat that measures the outside air temperature?
    How does it heat the water to 60 degrees and turn off?
    I will be installing heaters in VIH R 200/6b and VIH R 200/5. I'll give you a sign.
    Kiss, Christopher
  • #51 20677123
    civic9
    Level 12  
    Posts: 75
    Help: 1
    Rate: 17
    Hi. How old are your Vaillants, which you unscrew the drain valve?
    I have no experience with such devices. Mine is 15 years old, it's probably been a while and I'm wondering if there is any risk associated with unscrewing this valve from such an old tank? I don't want to end up in a situation where it will no longer be usable. It has never been twisted or used.

    The second question - should such a storage tank be additionally grounded?
  • #52 20679842
    gosciniakkrzysztof
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1

    Hi, my pods are 7 and 8 years old. I never unscrewed or opened the drain valves. Regards.
  • #53 20681416
    civic9
    Level 12  
    Posts: 75
    Help: 1
    Rate: 17

    I also managed to mount the heater in place of the drain valve. VIH R 150/5. Maybe it's a matter of vintage in terms of whether the heater will fit there or not. My quite old, teenage years.
    The hole in the outer housing needed to be corrected. Heater with proecosolar.
  • #54 20714690
    lary79
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 8

    civic9 wrote:
    The hole in the outer casing needed to be corrected


    Could you explain what the hole correction consisted of?
    Did you take a 1/2" threader and correct the thread, or what?
    Did you screw the heater directly into the hole, or did you use a 1/2" extension and only screwed the heater into the extension?


    Yesterday I had a gas boiler inspection, and the professional directed my thoughts to put the heater into the drain hole, and I found this discussion on the forum.
    NOTE - he said you don't need to drain the water from the storage tank. He turned off the two valves on the storage tank, drained the water from the tap in the sink and at that point a vacuum was created from the top of the storage tank. He turned off the water valve in the sink. Then he unscrewed the water drain at the storage tank (the one from the heater) and maybe 200 ml flew. The vacuum created from the top held the water. I didn't believe it myself, but that's exactly what it did. At this point, without draining the water, you can insert the heater.
  • #55 20715446
    civic9
    Level 12  
    Posts: 75
    Help: 1
    Rate: 17
    lary79 wrote:

    Could you explain what the correction of the hole consisted of?
    Have you taken a 1/2" threader and corrected the thread, or how?
    Did you screw the heater directly into the hole, or did you use a 1/2" extension and only screwed the heater into the extension?


    Without the extension, because I was afraid of what they wrote about here, that then creates a place where the heater overheats, so directly.
    With the thread there is all ok - no change. I enlarged the hole in this outer tin housing, with a small grinder (I had no other suitable tools). Maybe it doesn't always need enlarging, it depends on how they make it. Mine was made somehow so strangely, crooked, by the way, you can see that originally they also undercut it a little to even screw the drain valve in. The heater on the outside is a little larger than the valve, so it had to be enlarged.


    lary79 wrote:



    Yesterday I had a gas boiler inspection, and the professional directed my thoughts to put the heater in the drain hole, and I found this discussion on the forum.
    NOTE - he said that you do not need to drain the water from the storage tank. He turned off the two valves on the storage tank, drained the water from the tap in the sink and at that point a vacuum was created from the top of the tank. He turned off the water valve in the sink. Then he unscrewed the water drain at the storage tank (the one from the heater) and maybe 200 ml flew. The vacuum created from the top held the water. I didn't believe it myself, but that's exactly what it did. At this point, without draining the water, you can insert the heater.


    That's right, that's how it works. Just drain as much as you can from the system excess for lowering the pressure, and take care that there is no water or air supply to the system (for example, by turning off all the taps).

    I tested it to see what to do when you want to drain the water from the tank, however. You can do as above, unscrew the heater, screw the original valve back in. At this point, you can already unscrew the taps and drain the water, and you should not spill too much water - just put a towel under it. So keep and do not lose that original drain valve. It may still come in handy.
  • #56 20750909
    lary79
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 8

    >>20714690
    Welcome back.
    I decided to supplement my entry with details of the heater installation.
    1. I turned off the drain valve. The water started flowing continuously, but slowly. Two cloths underneath, replaced every now and then. A second person is useful.
    2. I put the recommended heater in to test to see if it would fit. It was ok, the coil was not blocking.
    3. I screwed a plug into the hole to stop the water flow and used tin snips to enlarge the hole in the casing to freely screw in the heater.
    4. I wound the tow with paste onto the thread of the heater. I didn't cut the thread. It doesn't leak.
    5. I screwed in the heater carefully, using an open-end wrench.
    6. I prepared the electrical installation, initially with a 0.75 wire, but it got slightly warm so I changed it to 2.5 because that's what I had. In my opinion, 1.5 is enough.
    7. I programmed the previously purchased Sonoff WiFi socket to turn on 3 times a day for 2 hours. 9-11, 1-3 p.m. and during bathing 7-9 p.m.
    8. I connected the heater and everything is OK.
    1000W heater (checked with a meter gives approximately 1035W) 120 liters of water for a daily shower for a family of 4. If that's not enough for someone, he can turn on the gas. Personally, I have surplus energy from panels, and currently I do not intend to install a pump.
    Everything works, I recommend it.
    Attachments:
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  • #57 20767233
    lary79
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 8
    I give my comments after installing the electric heater.

    After using the electric heater for a few days, I found that I would disconnect the gas boiler from the electricity, because the heater fully met my DHW needs. After about 3 weeks of disconnecting the gas boiler from electricity, I started it up to heat the entire tank with hot water using gas. The boiler showed error F28 and F54 - no gas supply. To make the boiler forget about the error, it is necessary to press the button of the crossed flame next to the boiler - reset. Removing the plug from the power supply does not help.
    To fix this:
    1. In the gas box by the regulator there is a wire that you need to slide up and unscrew the plastic plug to pull the metal pin back towards you (plenty of videos on YT on how to do this). You should be able to hear the venting (hissing) and refill the system with gas. In my case, this did not help.
    2. After consulting with the boiler installer, I did a restart and tapped the copper tube inside the boiler about 5 times. He said that there is a tee that likes to hang up during idle and gives such an error. It helped, the boiler started correctly.

    To avoid such a situation, I set the startup of the electric heater to 9-11 a.m. and 12-14 p.m., and the gas boiler to 7-21 p.m. It is important to also use gas, having a gas boiler.
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  • #58 20767375
    civic9
    Level 12  
    Posts: 75
    Help: 1
    Rate: 17

    This is me throwing in another suggestion for the cooperation of a gas boiler with such a heater :)

    I suggest setting the DHW on the gas boiler, for example, at 40°C.
    With such a setting, it starts heating only when the temperature drops to 35°C (5 less than the set temperature) - which happens with the heater alone, however, as several people in a short time want to take a shower or there is a large bath to fill. The boiler shuts down at this 40°C (according to the setting), which it reaches quite quickly, and the rest can be completed by the slower heater. We have two things taken care of - automatic and unattended support of the electric heater when it is rather necessary, giving it work in the remaining time, and this firing of the gas from time to time.

    Otherwise, I also use the gas for the anti-legionella program once a week, because to get to 70°C with a small heater, however, is already troublesome (in my case, they always use up the water before it heats up).

  • #59 20801141
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    I am asking for advice from people who installed a heater in a Vaillant tank (I have VIH 120). Well, as if there weren't enough problems, in my case the opening is inclined obliquely to the wall. Depending on the place of application, there is 15-18 cm of space. Is there a chance that the heater (without a thermostat) could enter the tank opening at an angle? Vaillant tank with visible heater opening installed close to the wall.
  • #60 20801377
    VPS
    Level 25  
    Posts: 547
    Help: 87
    Rate: 229
    You need 360mm

    1000 W electric heater with technical description and application.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the feasibility and methods of installing an electric heater in the Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B hot water storage tank, which originally lacks a dedicated heater mounting option. The common practice involves replacing the water drain valve (1/2" thread) with a custom or radiator-type electric heater, often using a tee fitting to retain the drain valve functionality. Installation challenges include limited internal space due to the coil arrangement, which can obstruct heater insertion, and variations in tank models and vintages affecting fitment. Heaters with lengths up to approximately 37-52 cm have been tested, with shorter heaters (around 20-40 cm) preferred for tanks mounted close to walls. Thermostats on heaters are often unnecessary or problematic; simpler heaters without thermostats are recommended, controlled externally via timers or smart sockets (e.g., Tuya, Sonoff). Installation typically requires draining or isolating water supply to prevent leaks, with some users successfully inserting heaters without full drainage by creating a vacuum in the tank. Power ratings of installed heaters range from 900W to 2000W, with 1000W suitable for smaller tanks (120L) mainly for temperature maintenance, and higher power (up to 2kW or more) recommended for larger tanks or full heating. Users report improved gas savings and integration with photovoltaic systems. Some report issues with heater cycling due to thermostat placement or installation method, suggesting direct tank connection without extensions to avoid overheating. Alternative tanks with built-in heater ports from other manufacturers (Kospel, Drazice Termica, Vasti) are suggested for easier installation. The discussion also covers control strategies for combined gas boiler and electric heater operation to optimize energy use and prevent legionella. Additional practical tips include enlarging the outer casing hole for heater fitment, sealing threads with tow or Teflon tape, and electrical wiring considerations (minimum 1.5 mm² wire). Some users share links to specific heaters and controllers, including Proecosolar and Chinese models, and discuss the pros and cons of anode removal and circulation to improve heat distribution.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 1 kW screw-in heater lifted 120 L from 30 °C to 42 °C in 98 min [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] “Nobody can do it better than yourself ;-)” [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20391911] Use the ½'' drain port, mind the coil, and seal carefully. Why it matters: a low-cost heater plus PV surplus can cut gas use by ≥ 80 %.

Quick Facts

• Drain-valve thread: ½'' BSPT (female) [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #19977796] • Safe heater length: 360 mm max for VIH 120; ≤ 200 mm needed when wall clearance < 18 cm [Elektroda, VPS, #20801377 & akm97, #21443238]. • Typical power range: 600 W – 2 kW (1 kW raises 120 L by 20 °C in ≈ 3 h) [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] • Price examples: PLN 50 for 1 kW Chinese insert; PLN 300 for branded 2 kW radiator element [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] • Edge clearances: leave ≥ 5 mm between element and coil to avoid hotspots [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20129452]

Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 120/150/200 storage tank?

Yes. Users confirmed successful installs in VIH 120, 150 and 200 by replacing the drain-valve with a ½'' screw-in heater [Elektroda, civic9, #20681416; podleckipawel, #20901454; adam salamon, #20961672].

Do I need to drain the tank first?

Not always. Close cold-in and hot-out valves, open a tap until flow stops to create vacuum, then remove the drain valve—only ~200 ml escapes [Elektroda, lary79, post #20714690]

3-step How-To for a leak-free install?

  1. Close inlet/outlet valves and relieve pressure at a tap.
  2. Unscrew drain valve; probe with a rod to confirm clearance.
  3. Wrap heater thread with PTFE or hemp, screw directly into tank, tighten with open-end spanner, earth the element. [Elektroda, lary79, post #20750909]

Why did my heater cycle on/off every 5-10 minutes?

If a tee or extender leaves air around the thermostat, heat concentrates and triggers early cutoff. Screw the element directly into the tank or relocate the thermostat sensor [Elektroda, ls_77, #20388828; jakubowczarek, #21541003].

Will removing the magnesium anode reduce corrosion?

Keep the anode. Vaillant tanks are enamelled steel; a copper-nickel heater alone cannot provide cathodic protection [Elektroda, VPS, #19947717 & #20116484]. Softened water slows anode wear but does not replace it [Elektroda, akm97, post #21443263]

How do I control the heater with photovoltaic surplus?

Many users plug the heater into a Wi-Fi smart socket (e.g., Tuya, Shelly or Gosund) and schedule 2–3 h blocks when PV exports peak. A 1 kW load rarely pushes grid voltage beyond +1 V [Elektroda, vincitore, #20670136; akm97, #21473514].

Is extra earthing required?

Yes. Bond the heater sheath to the tank’s PE terminal or nearby equipotential bar; metal tanks count as Class I appliances [“IEC 60364-4-41”].

What common failure or edge case should I watch for?

Some 2 kW radiator elements jam on the coil; one user lost PLN 300 when the heater could not screw in [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] Always test with a dummy rod first.

How will the modification affect my gas boiler operation?

Set boiler DHW to ~40 °C. The heater tops up above that, yet the boiler still fires weekly for anti-Legionella at 65 °C, preventing ignition errors F28/F54 [Elektroda, civic9, #20767375 & lary79, #20767233].

Can I use an upper (anode) port for a high-power element instead?

Possible but not advised. The upper layer heats locally then the thermostat stops; only ≈ 10 % of tank volume reaches setpoint [Elektroda, andrzej lukaszewicz, post #19977710] Circulation pumps partly fix this but add complexity.
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