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Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank

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Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B storage tank by using the drain valve port?

Yes, but only if the heater physically clears the internal coil; the top connections are a bad idea because they have plastic inserts and water-guide tubes, so the drain valve port is the proper place to try [#19977708][#19977796] The fit is not universal: the exact coil position and tank version vary, so before buying it is worth opening the drain, probing the opening with a rod of the heater’s length, and checking whether anything blocks it [#20401317][#21846475] If it fits, the best solution is to screw the heater directly into the tank connector; later notes say not to use a tee or extension because that can create an overheating section on the heater body [#20388828][#20715446] People reported successful installs in VIH R 150/6 B with a 900 W heater, and in similar tanks with 1.2 kW, but mainly as auxiliary heating rather than the only DHW source [#20935498][#20961672]
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  • #61 20801516
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    I understand that this is the length of the heater. But should I understand that the design of the radiator and heater makes it impossible to even partially insert it into the tank "at an angle"?
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  • #62 20805557
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    No one will give you an answer whether it is possible to install this heater as the tank is set. Maybe it can, maybe it can't. You may have to remove the storage tank turn it so that the heater goes in and slide it into place.
  • #63 20842234
    luqasss
    Level 12  
    Posts: 22
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    Gentlemen, hello,

    I'm an amateur in hot water, but now I have the same need as you. Question: can't you just install an instantaneous water heater (e.g. with or without a 5l tank) at the input or output of the water heater?
  • #64 20864526
    podleckipawel
    Level 5  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 3

    Hello, while looking for information on the possibility of installing a heater, I came across this topic and today I managed to install the heater in place of the drain valve.
    900W heater, 1/2 thread, WZ tee with sealing ring. The heater comes on without any problems, mine has 3 temperature setting modes: 20, 40, 60 ° C and Turbo modes.

    If I can help you with anything, greetings.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    podleckipawel wrote:
    Hello, while looking for information on the possibility of installing a heater, I came across this topic and today I managed to install the heater in place of the drain valve.
    900W heater, 1/2 thread, WZ tee with sealing ring. The heater comes on without any problems, mine has 3 temperature setting modes: 20, 40, 60 ° C and Turbo modes.

    If I can help you with anything, greetings.


    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6970064400_1702754796.jpg
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  • #65 20901215
    barteeeeek125
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1

    I have been watching this discussion for a long time. I also want to screw a heater into a 150l tank will 1000w be enough? Anyone has one like this and it works?
  • #66 20901454
    podleckipawel
    Level 5  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 3

    Hello, I mounted 900W but to 120L, I'm waiting for a sunny weekend because then I will be able to zaly dzień observe how it works. Unfortunately, for such capacities, these heaters are not enough, as a rule, they are for bathroom radiators or panel radiators.
    If they are switched on non-stop, they will probably wear out quickly and the water will be warm only in the lower part if not used, the supply of cold water is from the bottom of the tank also rather impossible to heat completely.
    A minimum of 2.5kW would be useful.
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  • #67 20915232
    maciekbiel357
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1

    I am also trying it out. I have an identical tray. I hope it will work for me. It seems to me that it will nevertheless help with heating and reduce gas consumption to some extent 🙈.
  • #68 20935498
    kuba1003
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 2

    I managed to install the heater of the Vaillant 150/6b tank as in the photos. It's 900w.
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  • #69 20935859
    podleckipawel
    Level 5  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 3
    By installing it without a tee, you have deprived the tank of the drain valve. Close-up of a plumbing connection without a tee fitting.
  • #70 20961672
    adam salamon
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 4

    I managed to screw a 1.2 kW heater into a 200L VIH R 200/6 M tank. Length of the heating element: 370 (mm) TYPE: RD 10 Manufacturer: VOLUX. I did not drain the water as the predecessor wrote, I turned off the cold water supply in the house behind the meter and turned on the hot tap water until it stopped flowing, and I opened the water drain valve in the Villant tank. About 200 ml of water poured out, at first there was slight pressure. After opening the valve without unscrewing it, I inserted a 5 mm rod inside to check if there was a coil there. It went straight in 53 cm, when I lifted it a little it went in 47 cm and rested on the coils under the rear wall of the tank. So the max length of the heater is 52 cm for my tank. I installed the heater without a tee, and yet it turns off when the temperature in the tank reaches 54°C because the heater thermostat heats up, which has a maximum shutdown temperature of 65°C ±2°C. The gas furnace is set to 40°C and the rest is heated by the heater from 40°C to 50°C for about 2 hours. This is a way to use excess electricity from the panels. Once a week, on Saturday at 6 p.m., the stove heats the water to 65°C to kill legionella. It works well as an additional source of water heating, but as the only source for 4 people in the house, 1.2 kW is not enough, even 2 kW will not be enough. Heater connected through the socket GOSUND ELECTRICAL SOCKET SMART WIFI SP111 3680W TUYA ESP8285 WATT METER. WIFI control and with a set timer, you can also see daily and monthly consumption. We'll see how it goes in the summer.
    Regards, Adam
    Attachments:
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  • #71 21050767
    wagen
    Level 12  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 8

    Hello, I added the heater, screwed in the T-connector and it was hard to screw it in, but it worked 😁
    Attachments:
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  • #72 21081687
    barteeeeek125
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1

    >>20961672 How does it perform? How much energy does it consume per month?
  • #73 21422019
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    Hi. As I wrote a few posts earlier, I have an additional problem because of the wall at the storage tank, through which theoretically only a heater with a length of 18, maybe 20 cm will go in. And I have found such heaters on Chinese allegro, which look very similar to those of the Proecosolar form, but are shorter:
    20 cm - 1kW
    15 cm - 800W
    Cost approx. 40-50 zł. Perhaps these will work for some people who are bothered by the coil. Of course, there is a risk that the Chinese watts will be weaker than the European ones, but I decided to take the risk:-) After purchase, I will measure and post the actual current draw of the heater. I also did a test inside the tank and a thick rod about 21 cm long goes in and doesn't hook on anything, and one 26 cm long I couldn't put in the hole at all because of the proximity to the wall.

    podleckipawel wrote:
    Unfortunately for such capacities these heaters are not sufficient, they are generally for bathroom or panel radiators.
    If they are switched on non-stop, they will probably wear out quickly and the water will only be warm in the lower part if it is not used, the cold water supply is from the bottom of the tank and it is unlikely to be possible to heat it completely.
    At least 2.5kW would be useful.
    .
    Mate how does it look with you. After all, the fact that the heater is from the bottom is a good thing, because the heated water travels upwards, so the tank heats up fairly evenly?

    shysheq wrote:
    Today from 30.4st C to 42.4st C the water took 98 minutes to heat.
    .
    This shows that a 1kW heater heats the water in a 120l tank by 10st.C in about 1.5 hours. Can anyone else share their observations?
  • #74 21443238
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    As I wrote in an earlier post, I ordered a 1 kW heater from China, but with a length of only 20 cm ( and this is the total length of the heater, not just the heating element). The cost of the heater is about 50 PLN. There are still 800 W heaters available with a length of only 15 cm. This will be useful information for people who, like me, have a tank mounted against the wall on the left side and have difficult access to the drain valve. The 20 cm heater was able to be fitted to me with minimal clearance. The Chinese product does not have a gasket, so I used Teflon thread to seal it, but this made cutting the sheet metal unnecessary. Once fitted, the heater heats and draws according to the socket with an intake meter 1005-1080W. It raises the temperature by 20 C in exactly 3 hours, so it can be said that it holds the parameters. It is of course difficult to make any judgements about durability, for now it has been running for a week.
    For the time being I am controlling the Tuya socket by rigidly setting a heating time of 3 hours. The next stage will be the installation of a Tuya tinkerer to disconnect the heater when the set temperature in the tank is reached.
  • #75 21443256
    borolano
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    What about giving the anode in the bottom socket and the heater in the top socket of the anode?

    The problem of stratified water distribution could be overcome with circulation work.

    PS.
    Apparently this anode can be removed if there is a water softener in the system - one for salt tablets.
  • #76 21443263
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    I don't see the point if you have access to both "inputs", but let the professionals have their say.
    I personally also have a softener and have not changed the anode for 10 years. Currently, its degradation rate is about 10%, but I would not give it up.
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  • #77 21443272
    borolano
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    The problem is that the bottom outlet, due to its thread, usually means low-powered heaters.
    The top outlet for the anode has a larger diameter and could handle heaters of, say, 2-3 kW and be suitable for faster heating for many people.

    The question that puzzles me is whether a circulation or bridge based on it would be suitable for temperature compensation.
    Basically, the heater should be at the bottom because of the formation of a layer of warm water in the top of the tank.
    This upper layer of heated water supposedly exchanges heat with the lower cold layers, but in practice to a poor degree.
    Hence the idea of a circulator that dumps the warm return water at the bottom of the tank - I guess.

    Anyway, I would appreciate a link to this Chinese heater. :-) .
  • #79 21473514
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    I wanted to follow up with a comment after the installation of the heater controller. I ordered a TYTE-D1 16A/3000W controller from Ali, but after installation it turned out that the electronics were disconnecting the relay. It turned out that the 3kW load, only applies to an inductive load, and with a resistive load it is only 1 kW. I replaced it with another slightly more expensive 20A/3800W version and now the problem is gone. This controller has a temperature probe on a 1m cable, which fits together with the original Vaillant sensor in a special cylinder tunnel. There is an option to calibrate the sensor, but this was not required. Measurement accuracy of 0.1C. It is possible to set a target temperature at which the heater is disconnected. The control operates continuously or in time windows according to a schedule. There is a measurement of power and energy consumed. The hysteresis value can also be set. I generally recommend it.
    By the way, I would like to comment on the power of the heater. 1 kW in my case comes down to heating the water by 20C in 3h. However, 1 kW power is small enough to cause a barely noticeable drop in the grid voltage (vide photovoltaics), whereas a larger heater power will result in an operating window that may be too small to improve the situation with too high grid voltage. I think, however, that a 1.5-3 kW heater would work better, but in my case it is impossible to use due to the proximity of the wall, moreover I do not know how it would work with the controller.
  • #80 21498272
    grzechu82
    Level 12  
    Posts: 17
    Help: 2
    Rate: 20
    >>21473514 "I replaced it with a different, slightly more expensive 20 amp/3800 watt version and now there is no problem."
    and what model exactly
  • #82 21498547
    grzechu82
    Level 12  
    Posts: 17
    Help: 2
    Rate: 20
    >>21498402 I am combining with such a heater as you bought and ordered on aliexpress.
    I tried with such: Electric Bathroom Heater To Radiator 1200W white Volux GL01.1200WH because in my case this one admittedly went into the 120 litre tank but at an angle and something interferes when I want to screw it in, probably the coil and it is only 36cm long. - Your coil is only 12mm in diameter and shorter than mine, I'll see if it works when it arrives from China.
  • #83 21537483
    jakubowczarek
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 1
    I have had a Volux 1200w heater fitted for 2-3 days and I have encountered that the heater switches off very frequently. On the photovoltaic preview it looks like it is running for 5-10 mins and then a pause of 10-15 mins. Recently it raised the water temp from 32 to 47 throughout the day (seemingly good, but could do better). Would it be possible to work out how to make it run continuously?
    The heater is screwed directly into the Vaillant VIH R 150/6 cylinder, without a tee.
    Chart showing the operation cycles of a heater and photovoltaic energy production throughout the day. .
  • #84 21540249
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    Quite strange looking. The bottom graph is surely the mains voltage? I'm not sure a 1200W heater would have that much effect on it. I understand that the heater is connected bypassing any 'controller'? If so, it looks like it is being disconnected by a 'thermistor', but why I don't know. Perhaps it is faulty? To be sure, it would be a good idea to connect it via a socket with a current draw measurement.
  • #85 21541003
    jakubowczarek
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 1
    >>21540249 .
    The cause of the heater disconnecting and jumping operation has already been found. The plumber had connected the heater through a screw, because it was impossible to turn it in the tank, the coil was blocking it. The screw is by the casing itself and gets hot, so the thermostat reads its temperature and switches off the heater.
    I have two options: either remove the thermostat in this heater or buy a new one, the one you inserted above, without any electronics 😀.
  • #86 21657201
    swirek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 82
    Rate: 52
    Hello
    Unfortunately the recommended heater at the VIH R 120/6 B storage tank will not approach, it practically hits the coils when inserted 9 cm.
    Any alternative ideas, in recirculation? I have removed the plastic tube, which is 60 cm long (the entire tank is 80 cm long), so maybe I could find a heater of this length and screw it onto the muff from above?

    Edit:
    I found a 50cm 1500W, only that top mounting not allowed xd

    Another Edit

    So yes, the bigger heater didn't go into the hole, I built in a smaller one which didn't work, everything heated up too much so if you have the same tank as me, unfortunately :(
  • #87 21733246
    DARIUS67
    Level 25  
    Posts: 623
    Help: 63
    Rate: 333
    Just for future reference because the topic is old but recurring. Whether you can screw in this heater from a ladder radiator depends on the twist of the coil. I.e. sometimes it will work, but not in another tank of the same type, because the coil will be in the way. To sum up, it is worth checking before purchasing whether it is possible to do it in your tank.
  • #88 21845182
    bugija
    Level 12  
    Posts: 53
    Rate: 8
    Hi,

    I also wanted to use a heater for my Vaillant VIH R 120/6 B storage tank.
    I would like to use this heater as the colleague from the beginning of the topic:

    https://egrzalki.pl/pl/p/Grzalka-do-grzejnika-lazienkowego-2000W-GTN%2C-biala/1420

    I'm wondering how to check before ordering if the coil in my case is positioned in the conflicting position. Drain the water, unscrew the drain and put something in, etc ?

    Will such a 2kw for such a tank heat up to 45st without using gas in any reasonable time ?
  • #89 21846475
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    The simplest way is as you wrote.
    You turn off the water. Allow water in from the storage tank. Remove the drain valve. If you know the length of the heater, prepare a rod of this length and insert it. If it goes in, the heater should also go in.

    How quickly a 2kW heater will heat 120L of water from 10°C to 45°C is the question you were asked to solve on tests for primary school leavers.
    Look for a calculator on the internet.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the feasibility and methods of installing an electric heater in the Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B hot water storage tank, which originally lacks a dedicated heater mounting option. The common practice involves replacing the water drain valve (1/2" thread) with a custom or radiator-type electric heater, often using a tee fitting to retain the drain valve functionality. Installation challenges include limited internal space due to the coil arrangement, which can obstruct heater insertion, and variations in tank models and vintages affecting fitment. Heaters with lengths up to approximately 37-52 cm have been tested, with shorter heaters (around 20-40 cm) preferred for tanks mounted close to walls. Thermostats on heaters are often unnecessary or problematic; simpler heaters without thermostats are recommended, controlled externally via timers or smart sockets (e.g., Tuya, Sonoff). Installation typically requires draining or isolating water supply to prevent leaks, with some users successfully inserting heaters without full drainage by creating a vacuum in the tank. Power ratings of installed heaters range from 900W to 2000W, with 1000W suitable for smaller tanks (120L) mainly for temperature maintenance, and higher power (up to 2kW or more) recommended for larger tanks or full heating. Users report improved gas savings and integration with photovoltaic systems. Some report issues with heater cycling due to thermostat placement or installation method, suggesting direct tank connection without extensions to avoid overheating. Alternative tanks with built-in heater ports from other manufacturers (Kospel, Drazice Termica, Vasti) are suggested for easier installation. The discussion also covers control strategies for combined gas boiler and electric heater operation to optimize energy use and prevent legionella. Additional practical tips include enlarging the outer casing hole for heater fitment, sealing threads with tow or Teflon tape, and electrical wiring considerations (minimum 1.5 mm² wire). Some users share links to specific heaters and controllers, including Proecosolar and Chinese models, and discuss the pros and cons of anode removal and circulation to improve heat distribution.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 1 kW screw-in heater lifted 120 L from 30 °C to 42 °C in 98 min [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] “Nobody can do it better than yourself ;-)” [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20391911] Use the ½'' drain port, mind the coil, and seal carefully. Why it matters: a low-cost heater plus PV surplus can cut gas use by ≥ 80 %.

Quick Facts

• Drain-valve thread: ½'' BSPT (female) [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #19977796] • Safe heater length: 360 mm max for VIH 120; ≤ 200 mm needed when wall clearance < 18 cm [Elektroda, VPS, #20801377 & akm97, #21443238]. • Typical power range: 600 W – 2 kW (1 kW raises 120 L by 20 °C in ≈ 3 h) [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] • Price examples: PLN 50 for 1 kW Chinese insert; PLN 300 for branded 2 kW radiator element [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] • Edge clearances: leave ≥ 5 mm between element and coil to avoid hotspots [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20129452]

Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 120/150/200 storage tank?

Yes. Users confirmed successful installs in VIH 120, 150 and 200 by replacing the drain-valve with a ½'' screw-in heater [Elektroda, civic9, #20681416; podleckipawel, #20901454; adam salamon, #20961672].

Do I need to drain the tank first?

Not always. Close cold-in and hot-out valves, open a tap until flow stops to create vacuum, then remove the drain valve—only ~200 ml escapes [Elektroda, lary79, post #20714690]

3-step How-To for a leak-free install?

  1. Close inlet/outlet valves and relieve pressure at a tap.
  2. Unscrew drain valve; probe with a rod to confirm clearance.
  3. Wrap heater thread with PTFE or hemp, screw directly into tank, tighten with open-end spanner, earth the element. [Elektroda, lary79, post #20750909]

Why did my heater cycle on/off every 5-10 minutes?

If a tee or extender leaves air around the thermostat, heat concentrates and triggers early cutoff. Screw the element directly into the tank or relocate the thermostat sensor [Elektroda, ls_77, #20388828; jakubowczarek, #21541003].

Will removing the magnesium anode reduce corrosion?

Keep the anode. Vaillant tanks are enamelled steel; a copper-nickel heater alone cannot provide cathodic protection [Elektroda, VPS, #19947717 & #20116484]. Softened water slows anode wear but does not replace it [Elektroda, akm97, post #21443263]

How do I control the heater with photovoltaic surplus?

Many users plug the heater into a Wi-Fi smart socket (e.g., Tuya, Shelly or Gosund) and schedule 2–3 h blocks when PV exports peak. A 1 kW load rarely pushes grid voltage beyond +1 V [Elektroda, vincitore, #20670136; akm97, #21473514].

Is extra earthing required?

Yes. Bond the heater sheath to the tank’s PE terminal or nearby equipotential bar; metal tanks count as Class I appliances [“IEC 60364-4-41”].

What common failure or edge case should I watch for?

Some 2 kW radiator elements jam on the coil; one user lost PLN 300 when the heater could not screw in [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] Always test with a dummy rod first.

How will the modification affect my gas boiler operation?

Set boiler DHW to ~40 °C. The heater tops up above that, yet the boiler still fires weekly for anti-Legionella at 65 °C, preventing ignition errors F28/F54 [Elektroda, civic9, #20767375 & lary79, #20767233].

Can I use an upper (anode) port for a high-power element instead?

Possible but not advised. The upper layer heats locally then the thermostat stops; only ≈ 10 % of tank volume reaches setpoint [Elektroda, andrzej lukaszewicz, post #19977710] Circulation pumps partly fix this but add complexity.
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