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Plumbing system with no plugs and Sonoff Mini modules, -ew lack of space

Barbarossa77 762 7
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  • #1 20650040
    Barbarossa77
    Level 3  
    Hi
    I am carrying out an electrical installation (at my place) and have some doubts about the space in the box . I am using 60 kaiser black boxes with a depth of 66. sonoff mini modules for lighting control will be used. In the worst case I will have to the box

    power input - 3x1.5mm2
    power output to the nst switch - 3x1.5mm2
    lamp output 3x1.5mm2
    cable from the second switch (staircase) - 3 x 1.5mm2
    the Sonoff Mini module
    cables to connect the switch 2x1.5mm2 to the module

    Has anyone tried this configuration ? Alternatively what are the patents to increase the space .
    Maybe you have some photos of similar implementations. Thank you very much in advance for your advice.
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  • #3 20650089
    speedy9
    Helpful for users
    It's not likely that you'll be able to fit it in. I've put in similar modules at my place (I just don't know what kind of boxes I have) and it was a problem to fit. Although I have 2.5mm2 cables everywhere. I had to dismantle the module casing and put the board itself, covered with insulating tape, into the box. Otherwise there was no option for it to go in. Note that this module is 60mm diagonally so ideally the diameter of the can. The thickness is 2cm, leaving you 4.6cm to accommodate the cables and the physical switch (2cm).
  • #4 20650162
    Barbarossa77
    Level 3  
    Plumbing system with no plugs and Sonoff Mini modules, -ew lack of space
    kokapetyl wrote:
    should be 4x1.5 minimum.
    why 4x1.5 ? Plumbing system with no plugs and Sonoff Mini modules, -ew lack of space .
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  • Helpful post
    #5 20650178
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Barbarossa77 wrote:
    why 4x1.5 ?
    Because not to use the N or PE conductor as phase conductors. And so that it would be possible to dispense (for some reason) with the Sonoff Mini and still have the possibility
    of
    functioning stair switches.
  • Helpful post
    #6 20650253
    PCF82
    Level 11  
    Right with the wires. Sonoffs are something unpredictable. Glasses peel off, things that are programmed come apart. It is better to protect yourself and lay the installation so that there is a way out of a Sonoff error on the mechanical switches. Friends spent on 34 such switches and one four-channel switch. Most stopped working after a while. For no reason at all. A few were able to be resuscitated by setting up with a router. Probably the program (software logic) in them flew off. I have written about mechanical strength. There are stresses in tight cans and crushed wires. This in turn accelerates the glass falling off. As for the cans, use deeper (x2) or add countersink rings. They are available at DIY chains.

    Added after 10 [minutes]:

    Another word: you need to pay attention to the spacing of the switches when mounting side by side. Sonoffs are wider.
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  • #7 20651386
    Barbarossa77
    Level 3  
    PCF82 wrote:
    at Sonoff. Friends spent on 34 such switches and one four-channel switch. Most stopped working after a while. For no reason at all. A few were able to be resuscitated by setting up with a router. Probably the program (software logic) in them flew off. I have written about mechanical strength. There are stresses in tight cans and crushed wires. This in turn accelerates the glass falling off. As for the cans, use deeper (x2) or add countersink rings. They are available from building supply chains. Added after 10 [minutes]:Another word: you need to pay attention to the spacing of the switches when mounted side by side. Sonoffs are wider.


    Thanks for the feedback . I have questions .
    1. Which sonoff are you writing about ? I intend to use the Sonoff Mini R2 and the Sonoff Dual R3 . I don't see any speed there .
    2. How should the electrical connection look like . Should I connect as in the sonoff diagram shown below ? Or a different one ? Will 4 wires between the stair keys be enough ?
    3) I don't know much about the spacing of the boxes. Please clarify. I am using Kaiser deepening boxes . They are connected to each other. I have also bought a Kaiser electronics box in order to have space for cables and electronics.
  • #8 20652035
    PCF82
    Level 11  
    I was a bit flippant as I was referring to the Sonoff single, double and triple wall switches. On this one a staircase circuit could be connected. Then each switch is connected in parallel with respect to each other, and the staircase action is to switch them all on with a touch of the hand to whichever one you choose. It is the same with switching off. The same applies to switching off when you touch any switch by hand. All you have to do is set them up in mutual dependence in the telephone application. The logic there resembles Boolean algebra. When I wrote about the four-channel system, I meant: Sonoff 4CHPRO This one also worked for a month and then failed. The other one has worked flawlessly for two years so far. The four-channel is in the control panel and is used for telephone control of the building's exterior lighting. I did this installation, but friends cursed their own delight and the idea of Sonoffs.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the challenges of fitting Sonoff Mini modules into a 60mm Kaiser black electrical box with a depth of 66mm while managing multiple 1.5mm² cables for power input, output, and lighting control. Users share experiences indicating that fitting the modules can be problematic due to space constraints, with suggestions to use deeper boxes or countersink rings to accommodate the wiring. Concerns are raised about the reliability of Sonoff devices, with reports of failures and the need for mechanical switches as backups. The conversation also touches on the wiring configuration for stair switches and the importance of maintaining proper spacing between switches to avoid issues with the Sonoff modules.
Summary generated by the language model.
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