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Next Steps After Teardown for TUYA Cloud Cutter Pull Request on LEDVANCE Bulb

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  • Hello everybody,

    This is my first teardown of a bulb that I would be happy to "cloudcut" ... :)
    (Below you'll find the pictures I took from the teardown)

    Manufacturer: LEDVANCE
    Model: Filament Globe 125 53
    Socket: E27
    Luminous flux: 680 lm
    Power: 6W
    Board: Beken 7231T
    WiFi-Module: WBLC5

    I am not sure: what would be the next steps to get a pull request to the TUYA cloud cutter?

    Any help would be really appreciated -
    thank you!

    gramais

    Packaging of the LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53 smart LED bulb. LEDVANCE Filament Bulb, yellowish hue. Top view of a disassembled LED bulb showing its interior and electrical components. Close-up of a circuit board from inside an LED light bulb. Close-up of electronic components from the inside of an LED bulb. Close-up of the interior of an LED bulb with visible electronic components. Close-up of the interior of an LED light bulb with a visible QR code and markings. Close-up of an electronic module with Beken BK7231 integrated circuit. Close-up of the inside of a dismantled LED bulb showing the electronic board and components.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Offline 
    gramais wrote 48 posts with. Been with us since 2023 year.
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  • #2 20884344
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14628
    Help: 655
    Rate: 12647
    Well, first you need a 2MB flash dump and then you can submit it for them to add profile. I can submit it myself, can you share 2MB backup here?
    We can also use it to extract OBK config.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #3 20884501
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    Hi P.!
    Piotr? or Patryk?
    :)

    Hm, I realize I´m really old fashioned: feels somehow strange to me talking to someone without knowing his name....

    In any case, thank you for your answer !

    Now, according to this description I hope I could figure out the soldering tips correctly (see pics below), but I am not sure whether to use RX/TX 1 or 2: do you have any idea?

    gramais

    Rear view diagram of a microcontroller with labeled components. Diagram of the microcontroller top with UART labels and rear view.
  • #4 20884687
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14628
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    Rate: 12647
    I think you may have got it right at the first try. Regarding the UART port - well, you should check our YT channel for detailed flashing process presentations:
    https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    You can also check our flash tool docs/readme:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/BK7231GUIFlashTool
    But to answer your question, always UART 1 (RX1/TX1) port is used for flashing. The UART2 is used for debug log output.

    Just please, remember to make 2MB backup first, so first do "read" operation, not "write"!
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #5 20887318
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48

    Okay, so I started the first attempt - unfortunately without success :(

    I double-checked everything and swapped RX/TX to be on the safe side, but maybe you could take another look: the photos are below.

    I tried it via PINs 8=TX, 10=RX, 17=3V3, 25=GND of the GPIO port (/dev/ttyAMA0) and alternatively via a USB-UART converter (/dev/ttyUSB0).

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyUSB0 -r 

    resp.
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
     python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyAMA0 -r

    or
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyUSB0 -r -s 0x0 -l 0x200000 -b 115200 

    resp.
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
     python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyAMA0 -r -s 0x0 -l 0x200000 -b 115200


    The program waits indefinitely for a response via the GPIO port:

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    UartDownloader....
Read Getting Bus...


    Via USB I get this error message:

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    Cannot get bus.
Traceback (most recent call last):
 File "/home/kay/hid_download_py/uartprogram", line 56, in <module>
   downloader.read(args.filename, args.startaddr, args.length)
 File "/home/kay/hid_download_py/bkutils/uart_downloader.py", line 83, in read
   self.pbar.close()
AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'close'


    I interrupted the 3V3 again and again to achieve a reset.

    Any ideas? Do you notice anything wrong with the wiring in the photos?

    Close-up of a small PCB with attached colored wires. Close-up of a circuit board with attached yellow and blue wires. Close-up of solder connections on a circuit board.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    ... and before you ask: I have no access to a windows computer for the GUI, just a RaspberryPi and Mac with the same results shown above. ;)
  • #6 20887424
    ferbulous
    Level 18  
    Posts: 419
    Help: 8
    Rate: 56
    Hi, how did you remove the bottom screw without breaking the glass?
    Is the stock tuya firmware patched?
  • #7 20887538
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
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    How do you power it, how long are the wires, what kind of USB to UART converter? Have you tried swapping RX and TX?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #8 20887621
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48

    Hey @ferbulous, I heated the socket with a heat gun until I could simply twist it off...

    I had imagined it would be more difficult, but then it went very easily.

    :)

    And as for the firmware patch: no idea, how do I find out?

    Added after 11 [minutes]:

    Hi @p.kaczmarek2

    what do you mean by
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    How do you power it,
    else than the above described converters or GPIO 3V3 PIN I used?

    And for:
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    how long are the wires
    They are about 30-40cm long.

    The
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    kind of USB to UART converter?
    is this one here.

    And last, yes, I have
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    tried swapping RX and TX?
    as described above.
  • #9 20887860
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14628
    Help: 655
    Rate: 12647
    Those wires seem very long. Futhermore, your USB to UART converter does not look like the one that can provide enough current for flashing. Use a better 3.3V source and shorten your wires. Have you watched our tutorials?


    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #10 21649706
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    Okay, so now that I'm back, I'm going to clear up my two open posts. I've already successfully got the door and window sensor working (complete and corrected instructions will follow soon) and now I'd like to free this light bulb from the cloud using CloudCutter.

    I've now dismantled a second one and soldered it cleanly again, but I still couldn't establish a connection for a firmware backup.
    😭

    Now I've come across this post about a similar bulb that also uses the WBLC5 MCU. This post confirms my setup and PIN selection, but the author writes about the same difficulties I'm having:

    Quote:
    I tried to do it so many times that the TX pad from the module's PCB broke off from various attempts.


    However, he goes on to say that he was able to find a solution with a tip from you, @p.kaczmarek2:

    Quote:
    Help came from @p.kaczmarek2 (Thx!) . He suggested to try to upload at a higher speed than 115000 and use a 100pF capacitor between 3.3V and GND at the output of the voltage stabilizer. I


    Could you please explain to me in simple terms exactly where I need to attach the 100pF capacitor to establish the connection?
    Where do I find the voltage stabilizer and its output?

    Or is there perhaps a purchase recommendation for a UART-to-USB converter that already contains such a capacitor?
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  • #11 21650458
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    Or maybe @Dark Man could help explaining to me how / where exactly you soldered the capacitor to the UART-converter? Would be really kind - thank you ❤️
  • #12 21650941
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
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    Hmm I am not sure how I can be more specific, there is only single 3.3V and GND line in the circuit. Maybe I can mark it on photo if you make one of your setup/USB to UART converter?

    If you are using a breadboard setup with separate 3.3V LDO like I often do, then there is no need to solder, you can just insert capacitor in the breadboard slots.

    Usually it also helps to make connection lines shorter.
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  • #13 21650952
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    >>21650941

    Okay, cool, I’ll make a pic of the two different boards I used - thank you! :)
  • #14 21651100
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
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    I've looked into the Darkman's topic you mentioned, so, there is relatively good explanation, however you can still improve some things:
    - use shorter wires
    - you can also use a better 3.3V power supply, some people even take 3.3V from Arduino board. I am personally using a breadboard with AMS1117-3.3V clone (TC1264 in my case). This is because, those tiny USB to UART converters don't have good enough current capability at 3.3V.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    You can see my flashing setup there: https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #15 21651116
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    >>21651100

    OK, so - just to get this right - when using an external 3.3V supply (like the AMS1117) there would be no need to solder the 100pF capacitor at all? Or could it help for even better chances additionally?
  • #16 21651380
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
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    Well, to be precise, it's 100nF, I assume, not 100pF. That pF is probably a mistake on Darkman's side. Still, the value is not critical and should be on board already.
    Sample circuit:

    Circuit diagram of AMS1117-3.3 voltage regulator with capacitors.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #17 21651648
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Posts: 48
    >>21651380

    So, these are the two USB-UART adapters I have: from a technical point of view, one looks better than the other. I'm sure you've already gained some experience: or is one the same as the other?

    USB to UART converter board with visible pins and electronic components.
    Close-up of a USB to TTL converter module on a red PCB with labeled signal connections and components.

    And finally, my AMS1117. But I'm not sure why there are two codes on each side:

    Voltage regulator module with AMS1117-3.3 chip on a blue PCB

    104 = 100nF and (at the same time?)
    106 = 10 µF

    Can that be right?
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the process of creating a pull request for the TUYA Cloud Cutter after performing a teardown of an LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53 bulb. The user seeks guidance on the necessary steps, particularly regarding obtaining a 2MB flash dump and the correct UART port for flashing. Responses highlight the importance of making a backup before flashing, using UART1 for the flashing process, and ensuring the use of a suitable USB to UART converter with short wires for better performance. The user also shares challenges faced during the flashing attempts and seeks advice on the stock firmware status.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If you want a TUYA Cloud Cutter pull request for this LEDVANCE bulb, first make a full 2MB flash backup and use UART1. As the expert put it, "always UART 1" for flashing. This FAQ is for WBLC5/BK7231T bulb modders who get stuck at firmware backup, unstable wiring, or weak 3.3V power during teardown-to-profile work. [#20884687]

Why it matters: A clean 2MB dump is the handoff point between a successful teardown and an actionable Cloud Cutter profile request.

Option Works for flashing? Main issue from thread Best use in this case
UART1 (RX1/TX1) Yes Needs stable wiring and power Firmware read/backup
UART2 (RX2/TX2) No Used for logs, not flashing Debug output only
Small USB-UART 3.3V Often unreliable Limited current capability Data link only, not ideal power
AMS1117-based 3.3V supply Recommended Needs short leads More stable external power

Key insight: The main blocker was not the pin choice. The thread points to two practical causes: long 30–40 cm wires and weak 3.3V power from tiny USB-UART adapters. [#21651100]

Quick Facts

  • Device details from the teardown: LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53, E27 base, 680 lm, 6 W, Beken BK7231T, and Tuya WBLC5 module. [#20884330]
  • For flashing, use UART1 (RX1/TX1). UART2 is reserved for debug log output, not firmware upload or backup. [#20884687]
  • The required backup size is a full 2MB flash dump, and the first operation should be read, not write. [#20884344]
  • The failing setup used wire lengths of about 30–40 cm, which the expert called too long for reliable communication. [#20887621]
  • On the AMS1117 breakout, capacitor codes 104 = 100 nF and 106 = 10 µF were explicitly identified in the thread. [#21651648]

What are the next steps after tearing down a LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53 bulb with a Beken BK7231T/WBLC5 if I want to submit a TUYA Cloud Cutter pull request?

The next step is to read a full 2MB flash backup and share it so a profile can be added. The same backup can also be used to extract the OBK configuration. Do the backup before any write attempt, because the expert explicitly advised starting with a read operation first. [#20884344]

How do I make a full 2MB flash dump from a WBLC5-based Tuya bulb before attempting any write operation?

Make the backup by connecting the bulb over UART1, powering it from a stable 3.3V source, and performing a read of 0x200000 bytes from address 0x0. 1. Wire RX1, TX1, 3V3, and GND. 2. Start a read operation, not write. 3. Save the full 2MB dump and share it for profile work or OBK extraction. [#20884687]

Which UART pins should be used for flashing a WBLC5 module in a LEDVANCE bulb: RX1/TX1 or RX2/TX2, and what is UART2 used for?

Use RX1/TX1 for flashing. UART2 is used for debug log output only. The expert answered this directly: “always UART 1” is used for flashing, while UART2 serves logs. [#20884687]

Why does the BK7231 UART flashing tool get stuck on "Read Getting Bus..." or return "Cannot get bus" when trying to back up firmware from a WBLC5 bulb?

The thread points to unstable hardware setup, not a wrong command. The reported causes were 30–40 cm wires and a small USB-UART adapter that likely could not supply enough 3.3V current for flashing. That combination can prevent the tool from getting the bus and leave reads hanging indefinitely. [#20887860]

How short should the wires be when flashing a BK7231T or WBLC5 bulb over UART, and why do long 30–40 cm leads cause problems?

Keep the wires much shorter than 30–40 cm, because that length was identified as a problem in this setup. The expert said those wires “seem very long” and advised shortening them to improve connection stability. Long leads add noise and make marginal 3.3V power delivery worse during flashing. [#20887860]

What kind of 3.3V power supply works best for flashing Tuya WBLC5 bulbs: a small USB-UART adapter, Raspberry Pi GPIO, or an AMS1117-based regulator board?

An external AMS1117-based 3.3V regulator board is the preferred option in this thread. The expert said tiny USB-UART converters often lack enough current capability at 3.3V, and also noted personal use of a breadboard regulator setup instead. A Raspberry Pi GPIO attempt was reported, but it did not solve the connection problem here. [#21651100]

Where exactly should a decoupling capacitor be connected between 3.3V and GND in a UART flashing setup for a WBLC5 bulb?

Connect the capacitor directly across the single 3.3V and GND power lines in the flashing circuit, as close to the supply output as practical. The expert clarified that there is only one 3.3V and one GND line in this setup, so the placement is simply between those two rails. [#21650941]

Why was a 100pF capacitor mentioned for the WBLC5 flashing fix, and why is 100nF the more likely correct value?

The 100pF value was treated as a typo in the thread, and 100nF was identified as the more likely correct value. The expert said, “to be precise, it’s 100nF,” and added that the exact value is not critical because that decoupling should already exist on the board. [#21651380]

What is TUYA Cloud Cutter, and how does it use a firmware backup or profile to support new bulbs like the LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53?

"TUYA Cloud Cutter" is a firmware-profile workflow that adds support for specific Tuya devices, using a device backup to identify and submit the needed profile data. In this thread, the required contribution path was clear: first provide a full 2MB flash dump, then it can be submitted so “they can add profile.” [#20884344]

What is an OBK config, and how can a 2MB flash backup be used to extract it from a BK7231T device?

"OBK config" is a device configuration dataset that maps how OpenBeken should use the hardware, including key settings derived from the original firmware backup. The thread states that the same full 2MB backup needed for profile submission can also be used to extract the OBK config from the BK7231T device. [#20884344]

How can I tell whether the stock Tuya firmware on a LEDVANCE WBLC5 bulb is patched against CloudCutter?

You cannot tell from this thread alone, because no check method or confirmed result was provided. When asked whether the stock firmware was patched, the bulb owner answered, “no idea,” and the discussion did not add a verification procedure afterward. [#20887621]

What's the difference between using a Raspberry Pi GPIO UART port and a USB-to-UART converter for reading firmware from a BK7231T bulb?

In this thread, neither method succeeded, but they failed differently. The Raspberry Pi GPIO UART setup waited indefinitely at “Read Getting Bus...”, while the USB-UART path returned “Cannot get bus” and then raised a Python NoneType error. That makes the USB path less silent, but not more reliable here. [#20887318]

How do I safely disassemble a LEDVANCE filament bulb and remove the bottom screw or socket without breaking the glass?

Heat the socket with a heat gun until it loosens, then twist it off. The user who opened this LEDVANCE bulb said the process turned out easier than expected and did not describe breaking the glass. That is the only disassembly method explicitly reported in the thread. [#20887621]

Which USB-to-UART adapter specifications matter most for flashing BK7231T/WBLC5 devices, especially current capability at 3.3V?

The key requirement is strong 3.3V current capability, not just USB-UART functionality. The expert said tiny adapters “don’t have good enough current capability at 3.3V,” which is why a better external regulator and shorter wires were recommended for WBLC5 flashing. [#21651100]

Why do AMS1117 breakout boards often have both 104 and 106 capacitors on them, and what do those markings mean in a 3.3V flashing circuit?

In this thread, the markings were decoded as two different capacitor values on the same AMS1117 board: 104 = 100 nF and 106 = 10 µF. That means the breakout includes both a small and a larger decoupling capacitor in the 3.3V supply circuit, which matches the user’s reading of the board. [#21651648]
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