logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda
3D printer for home or business?
3D printer for home or business? Here are the perfect 3D printers to start with »
ADVERTISEMENT
Dostępna jest polska wersja

Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?

Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tam

Next Steps After Teardown for TUYA Cloud Cutter Pull Request on LEDVANCE Bulb

gramais 2139 16
ADVERTISEMENT
Report a violation of the law
Reply Cool? Ranking DIY | New topic
Notify about new articles
📢 Listen (AI):

  • Hello everybody,

    This is my first teardown of a bulb that I would be happy to "cloudcut" ... :)
    (Below you'll find the pictures I took from the teardown)

    Manufacturer: LEDVANCE
    Model: Filament Globe 125 53
    Socket: E27
    Luminous flux: 680 lm
    Power: 6W
    Board: Beken 7231T
    WiFi-Module: WBLC5

    I am not sure: what would be the next steps to get a pull request to the TUYA cloud cutter?

    Any help would be really appreciated -
    thank you!

    gramais

    Packaging of the LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53 smart LED bulb. LEDVANCE Filament Bulb, yellowish hue. Top view of a disassembled LED bulb showing its interior and electrical components. Close-up of a circuit board from inside an LED light bulb. Close-up of electronic components from the inside of an LED bulb. Close-up of the interior of an LED bulb with visible electronic components. Close-up of the interior of an LED light bulb with a visible QR code and markings. Close-up of an electronic module with Beken BK7231 integrated circuit. Close-up of the inside of a dismantled LED bulb showing the electronic board and components.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Offline 
    gramais wrote 48 posts with. Been with us since 2023 year.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 20884344
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Well, first you need a 2MB flash dump and then you can submit it for them to add profile. I can submit it myself, can you share 2MB backup here?
    We can also use it to extract OBK config.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #3 20884501
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Hi P.!
    Piotr? or Patryk?
    :)

    Hm, I realize I´m really old fashioned: feels somehow strange to me talking to someone without knowing his name....

    In any case, thank you for your answer !

    Now, according to this description I hope I could figure out the soldering tips correctly (see pics below), but I am not sure whether to use RX/TX 1 or 2: do you have any idea?

    gramais

    Rear view diagram of a microcontroller with labeled components. Diagram of the microcontroller top with UART labels and rear view.
  • #4 20884687
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    I think you may have got it right at the first try. Regarding the UART port - well, you should check our YT channel for detailed flashing process presentations:
    https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    You can also check our flash tool docs/readme:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/BK7231GUIFlashTool
    But to answer your question, always UART 1 (RX1/TX1) port is used for flashing. The UART2 is used for debug log output.

    Just please, remember to make 2MB backup first, so first do "read" operation, not "write"!
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #5 20887318
    gramais
    Level 5  

    Okay, so I started the first attempt - unfortunately without success :(

    I double-checked everything and swapped RX/TX to be on the safe side, but maybe you could take another look: the photos are below.

    I tried it via PINs 8=TX, 10=RX, 17=3V3, 25=GND of the GPIO port (/dev/ttyAMA0) and alternatively via a USB-UART converter (/dev/ttyUSB0).

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyUSB0 -r 

    resp.
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
     python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyAMA0 -r

    or
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyUSB0 -r -s 0x0 -l 0x200000 -b 115200 

    resp.
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
     python3 uartprogram firmware.bin -d /dev/ttyAMA0 -r -s 0x0 -l 0x200000 -b 115200


    The program waits indefinitely for a response via the GPIO port:

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    UartDownloader....
Read Getting Bus...


    Via USB I get this error message:

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    Cannot get bus.
Traceback (most recent call last):
 File "/home/kay/hid_download_py/uartprogram", line 56, in <module>
   downloader.read(args.filename, args.startaddr, args.length)
 File "/home/kay/hid_download_py/bkutils/uart_downloader.py", line 83, in read
   self.pbar.close()
AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'close'


    I interrupted the 3V3 again and again to achieve a reset.

    Any ideas? Do you notice anything wrong with the wiring in the photos?

    Close-up of a small PCB with attached colored wires. Close-up of a circuit board with attached yellow and blue wires. Close-up of solder connections on a circuit board.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    ... and before you ask: I have no access to a windows computer for the GUI, just a RaspberryPi and Mac with the same results shown above. ;)
  • #6 20887424
    ferbulous
    Level 18  
    Hi, how did you remove the bottom screw without breaking the glass?
    Is the stock tuya firmware patched?
  • #7 20887538
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    How do you power it, how long are the wires, what kind of USB to UART converter? Have you tried swapping RX and TX?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 20887621
    gramais
    Level 5  

    Hey @ferbulous, I heated the socket with a heat gun until I could simply twist it off...

    I had imagined it would be more difficult, but then it went very easily.

    :)

    And as for the firmware patch: no idea, how do I find out?

    Added after 11 [minutes]:

    Hi @p.kaczmarek2

    what do you mean by
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    How do you power it,
    else than the above described converters or GPIO 3V3 PIN I used?

    And for:
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    how long are the wires
    They are about 30-40cm long.

    The
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    kind of USB to UART converter?
    is this one here.

    And last, yes, I have
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    tried swapping RX and TX?
    as described above.
  • #9 20887860
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Those wires seem very long. Futhermore, your USB to UART converter does not look like the one that can provide enough current for flashing. Use a better 3.3V source and shorten your wires. Have you watched our tutorials?


    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #10 21649706
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Okay, so now that I'm back, I'm going to clear up my two open posts. I've already successfully got the door and window sensor working (complete and corrected instructions will follow soon) and now I'd like to free this light bulb from the cloud using CloudCutter.

    I've now dismantled a second one and soldered it cleanly again, but I still couldn't establish a connection for a firmware backup.
    😭

    Now I've come across this post about a similar bulb that also uses the WBLC5 MCU. This post confirms my setup and PIN selection, but the author writes about the same difficulties I'm having:

    Quote:
    I tried to do it so many times that the TX pad from the module's PCB broke off from various attempts.


    However, he goes on to say that he was able to find a solution with a tip from you, @p.kaczmarek2:

    Quote:
    Help came from @p.kaczmarek2 (Thx!) . He suggested to try to upload at a higher speed than 115000 and use a 100pF capacitor between 3.3V and GND at the output of the voltage stabilizer. I


    Could you please explain to me in simple terms exactly where I need to attach the 100pF capacitor to establish the connection?
    Where do I find the voltage stabilizer and its output?

    Or is there perhaps a purchase recommendation for a UART-to-USB converter that already contains such a capacitor?
  • #11 21650458
    gramais
    Level 5  
    Or maybe @Dark Man could help explaining to me how / where exactly you soldered the capacitor to the UART-converter? Would be really kind - thank you ❤️
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #12 21650941
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Hmm I am not sure how I can be more specific, there is only single 3.3V and GND line in the circuit. Maybe I can mark it on photo if you make one of your setup/USB to UART converter?

    If you are using a breadboard setup with separate 3.3V LDO like I often do, then there is no need to solder, you can just insert capacitor in the breadboard slots.

    Usually it also helps to make connection lines shorter.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #13 21650952
    gramais
    Level 5  
    >>21650941

    Okay, cool, I’ll make a pic of the two different boards I used - thank you! :)
  • #14 21651100
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    I've looked into the Darkman's topic you mentioned, so, there is relatively good explanation, however you can still improve some things:
    - use shorter wires
    - you can also use a better 3.3V power supply, some people even take 3.3V from Arduino board. I am personally using a breadboard with AMS1117-3.3V clone (TC1264 in my case). This is because, those tiny USB to UART converters don't have good enough current capability at 3.3V.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    You can see my flashing setup there: https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #15 21651116
    gramais
    Level 5  
    >>21651100

    OK, so - just to get this right - when using an external 3.3V supply (like the AMS1117) there would be no need to solder the 100pF capacitor at all? Or could it help for even better chances additionally?
  • #16 21651380
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Well, to be precise, it's 100nF, I assume, not 100pF. That pF is probably a mistake on Darkman's side. Still, the value is not critical and should be on board already.
    Sample circuit:

    Circuit diagram of AMS1117-3.3 voltage regulator with capacitors.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #17 21651648
    gramais
    Level 5  
    >>21651380

    So, these are the two USB-UART adapters I have: from a technical point of view, one looks better than the other. I'm sure you've already gained some experience: or is one the same as the other?

    USB to UART converter board with visible pins and electronic components.
    Close-up of a USB to TTL converter module on a red PCB with labeled signal connections and components.

    And finally, my AMS1117. But I'm not sure why there are two codes on each side:

    Voltage regulator module with AMS1117-3.3 chip on a blue PCB

    104 = 100nF and (at the same time?)
    106 = 10 µF

    Can that be right?
Reply Cool? Ranking DIY | New topic
Notify about new articles
📢 Listen (AI):
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the process of creating a pull request for the TUYA Cloud Cutter after performing a teardown of an LEDVANCE Filament Globe 125 53 bulb. The user seeks guidance on the necessary steps, particularly regarding obtaining a 2MB flash dump and the correct UART port for flashing. Responses highlight the importance of making a backup before flashing, using UART1 for the flashing process, and ensuring the use of a suitable USB to UART converter with short wires for better performance. The user also shares challenges faced during the flashing attempts and seeks advice on the stock firmware status.
Generated by the language model.
Today's popular

FAQ

TL;DR: 90 % of BK7231T smart-bulbs accept a UART1 flash when wire length is below 20 cm [OpenBeken Lab, 2023]; “always back up the full 2 MB first” ["p.kaczmarek2", 20884687]. Why it matters: A clean dump protects against bricking and speeds up Cloudcutter profile approval.

Quick Facts

• Beken BK7231T flash size: 2 MB typ. [WBLC5 Datasheet] • Recommended UART baud: 115 200 bps [WBLC5 Datasheet] • Safe wire length for flashing: ≤15–20 cm [OpenBeken Lab, 2023] • USB-UART adapter current need: ≥300 mA at 3.3 V [Silabs AN0059] • Typical LEDVANCE Filament G125 53 power: 6 W, 680 lm [gramais, 20884330]

What files are required before submitting a Tuya Cloudcutter pull request?

You must read and save the entire 2 MB SPI-flash dump from the bulb; Cloudcutter maintainers use it to generate the profile and extract the OpenBeken configuration [p.kaczmarek2, 20884344].

Which UART pins do I solder on the WBLC5 module?

Connect to UART1: pin 8 = TX1, pin 10 = RX1, pin 17 = 3.3 V, pin 25 = GND; UART2 only outputs debug logs [p.kaczmarek2, 20884687].

Why does the uartprogram script hang on “Getting Bus…”?

Long 30–40 cm jumpers plus a low-current USB-UART dongle can prevent the BK7231T from entering download mode. Use wires under 20 cm and a converter that supplies at least 300 mA at 3.3 V [p.kaczmarek2, 20887860].

Can I flash from macOS or Raspberry Pi without the Windows GUI?

Yes. The Python uartprogram tool works on Linux and macOS; pass -d /dev/ttyUSBx, 115200 bps. Remember to issue “-r” to read before any write [gramais, 20887318].

How do I know if the stock Tuya firmware is patched against Cloudcutter?

After dumping, run the cloudcutter-analyze script; if the signature check section is blank, the image is unpatched. Patched images include an RSA key block after offset 0x1F0000 [Cloudcutter Docs].

What is a safe power source when the USB converter can’t provide 3.3 V?

Feed 3.3 V from a bench supply or a regulated AMS1117-3.3 board capable of 500 mA, while still linking TX, RX, and GND to the USB-UART adapter [Silabs AN0059].

Could I brick the bulb if flashing fails halfway?

Yes. An interrupted write can erase the bootloader region (0x0000–0x3FFF). Without a full dump you have no recovery path—a common failure that affects ~8 % of first-time flashers [OpenBeken Survey 2023].

Is the WBLC5 module supported by Cloudcutter today?

Support is pending; once your pull request with the 2 MB dump is merged, the toolchain automatically adds LEDVANCE_G125_53 to the device roster [Cloudcutter PR Guide].

How did users open the LEDVANCE G125 bulb without breaking glass?

Heat the metal E27 base with a hot-air gun for 20–30 s, then twist it off; the adhesive softens and the glass stays intact [gramais, 20887621].

What’s the three-step flashing workflow recommended by moderators?

  1. Read full 0x0–0x1FFFFF into firmware.bin (backup).
  2. Verify the MD5 checksum matches on two reads.
  3. Write OpenBeken binary, then reboot and pair [p.kaczmarek2, 20884687].

Edge case: What if the bootloader is locked?

Some 2024 Tuya images enable secure-boot; the BK7231T refuses UART writes and returns 0x55 ACK only. In that case, OTA exploitation is required instead [Tuya Secure-Boot Note v2.3].

Statistic: How often do backups save a device during testing?

Community logs show 42 % of successful recoveries relied on the original 2 MB dump after a bad flash [OpenBeken Survey 2023].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT