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Reflashing Glow Ray 4in LED Gimbal Lights with Firmware 1.5.21 via Serial Connection

yonubear 795 16
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How can I reflash a Glow Ray 4in LED gimbal light with firmware 1.5.21 over serial when I can’t find or access the CEN pin?

You can flash it without using the CEN pin by toggling the external 3.3V power off and on until Easy Flasher catches the bulb in UART download mode. Use an external 3.3V PSU only and do not power the board from mains while flashing [#21328729][#21330993] Wire GND to both the PSU and USB-TTL adapter, bulb TX to USB-TTL RX, and bulb RX to USB-TTL TX [#21331101] Keep the pogo-pin/cable runs as short as possible, and if contact is unreliable, solder short leads directly to 3.3V, GND, RX, and TX instead [#21331101][#21331973] If possible, confirm the chip marking as T34, since that was visible on the board in the thread [#21328729]
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  • #1 21328683
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    I am trying to reflash several Glow Ray 4in recessed LED gimbal lights that have firmware 1.5.21. I know that these can't be flashed using CloudCutter, but I am lost on the serial connections as I can't find CEN on the chip. Here is a photo of the board if that helps, but I am hoping someone has a better suggestion.

    Close-up of an LED light circuit board with visible electronic components.
    AI: Could you provide the specific model number of your Glow Ray 4in LED gimbal lights?
    LED-4g-SMD-10w-SWF-RD-WF
    AI: What type of serial connection or equipment are you using to attempt the reflash?
    USB to serial adapter 3.3V
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  • #2 21328729
    divadiow
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4864
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    I don't think I've seen a bulb where everything is on the LED disc before. Is that a T34? I think I just about see a "T34".

    Close-up of a circular circuit board with electronic components and an LED.

    CEN is circled but you can achieve the same by toggling the 3v3 power off/on until Easy Flasher catches it in uart download mode.
  • #3 21328736
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    Thank you I will try that and it is a recessed can light assembly mounting can and bulb are one piece Packaging of smart recessed lights with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth features.
  • #4 21328740
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    please post the factory firmware backup for analysis if you're happy to :)
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  • #5 21328744
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    Will do if i get it to connect
  • #6 21330973
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    I'm still at it can't get it to connect to PC will post file as soon as I get it to connect
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  • #7 21330978
    divadiow
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4864
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    what does your wiring look like? what is your power source?
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  • #8 21330990
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    I have tried the 3.3V on the USB serial. I have tried a second 3.3V adapter and having the board powered by the mains supply.
  • #9 21330993
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    yonubear wrote:
    having the board powered by the mains supply

    eek! don't do that! no need with external 3.3v power source.

    do you have any pics of your setup as configured when using 3.3v from PSU?

    please confirm it says T34 on that chip.
  • #10 21331017
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    wiring i was using pogo pins i am currently redesigning a 3d printed jig to see if I can get a better fit

    Added after 35 [minutes]:

    >>21330993 >>21330993 >>21330993

    let me see if i have a pic as I have everything apart remeasuring and let me see if I can read the chip

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    >>21330993

    Close-up of a circuit board with electronic components and a chip labeled 134 2122-K8WYN K00LEB.
  • #11 21331088
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    OK that makes sense. just wanted to be sure :)
  • #12 21331093
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    >>21331088
    is there anything I have to do special that I might be overlooking?
  • #13 21331101
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    unsure.

    confirm the following I guess:

    3.3v from external PSU
    GND to PSU and shared to USB-TTL adaptor GND
    bulb TX to USB-TTL RX
    bulb RX to USB-TTL TX
    continuity OK to the end of your pogo pins from furthest point
    shortest cables possible with the pogo pins or, preferably, solder short cables to 3.3V, GND, RX, TX
  • #14 21331164
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    >>21331101

    yeap that is what I have I think this thing just doesn't like me lol
  • #15 21331184
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    Does the device still work? With 3.3v and gnd connected does it show as available for pairing or broadcast an AP or anything?
  • #16 21331936
    yonubear
    Level 4  
    Posts: 29
    if I put power to it it happily reconnects to the wifi and tuya
  • #17 21331973
    divadiow
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    Ok. Have you tried soldering instead? Ie no pogos.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around reflashing Glow Ray 4in recessed LED gimbal lights with firmware version 1.5.21. The user is facing challenges with serial connections, particularly in locating the CEN pin on the chip. Suggestions include toggling the 3.3V power to enter UART download mode and ensuring proper wiring connections between the bulb and USB to serial adapter. The user has attempted various setups, including using pogo pins and external power sources, but has not yet succeeded in establishing a connection. Other participants emphasize the importance of correct wiring and suggest soldering connections instead of using pogo pins for better reliability.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Use 3.3 V UART; “toggle the 3v3 power off/on until Easy Flasher catches it” to enter download mode. This FAQ helps Glow Ray 4in owners reflash firmware 1.5.21 via serial when CEN isn’t obvious. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328729]

Why it matters: It shows how to wire, power, and time UART mode safely when CloudCutter won’t work.

Quick Facts

How do I identify the SoC and the CEN/EN pad on this Glow Ray 4in board?

Look for a "T34" marking on the controller area of the LED disk. In shared photos, a CEN pad was circled for entry control. If CEN isn’t obvious, you can still try the power‑toggle UART method described below. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328729]

Can I enter UART download mode without locating CEN?

Yes. Time the bootloader by cycling power: “toggle the 3v3 power off/on until Easy Flasher catches it in uart download mode.” This lets the tool grab the boot window without pulling CEN. Use a 3.3 V USB‑TTL setup. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328729]

What’s the correct UART wiring (TX/RX, VCC, GND) for these lights?

Power the board from an external 3.3 V PSU only. Share ground between the PSU and your USB‑TTL adapter. Cross data lines: bulb TX → adapter RX, bulb RX → adapter TX. Keep leads short and verify continuity to the contact tips. Prefer soldered short leads. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21331101]

Is it safe to leave mains connected while using the serial adapter?

No. As one expert put it, “eek! don’t do that!” Use only an external 3.3 V source while you work. Mains during UART can damage hardware and risk shock. Disconnect mains before attaching your serial rig. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21330993]

I’m using pogo pins and can’t connect—what should I change?

Shorten all wires and check continuity at the very end of each pogo tip. Cross TX/RX correctly and share ground across PSU and adapter. If it stays flaky, solder short wires to 3.3 V, GND, RX, and TX for a solid link. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21331101]

What tool should I use to catch the bootloader?

Use Easy Flasher in UART mode and time a quick 3.3 V power cycle so it “catches” the boot window. This avoids needing a direct CEN pull. Keep your serial connections stable while toggling power. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328729]

Will the light still work after failed serial attempts?

Yes, the OP reported the lamp reconnects to Wi‑Fi and Tuya when powered normally. That indicates the device isn’t bricked by the attempts. Resume flashing only after confirming wiring and power safety. [Elektroda, yonubear, post #21331936]

What exact model and power rating does this thread cover?

It covers Glow Ray model LED-4g-SMD-10w-SWF-RD-WF, which is approximately a 10 W recessed gimbal assembly. Use this identification when searching pinouts or firmware notes. [Elektroda, yonubear, post #21328683]

How should I share the factory firmware backup for analysis?

After you capture the stock firmware with your flashing tool, post the backup file in the thread. A contributor requested it for analysis to help others. Include wiring notes and versions. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328740]

Do RX and TX need to be crossed when wiring the USB‑TTL?

Yes. Connect the bulb’s TX to the adapter’s RX, and the bulb’s RX to the adapter’s TX. Share ground between the PSU, bulb, and adapter to complete the link. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21331101]

3-step: How do I attempt a UART flash via power‑toggle?

  1. Hook up a 3.3 V UART interface to the board and your PC.
  2. Open Easy Flasher in UART download mode.
  3. Toggle 3.3 V off/on repeatedly until the tool detects the bootloader and connects. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21328729]

What quick bench test shows the SoC is alive on 3.3 V power?

With only 3.3 V and GND connected, check if it appears for pairing or broadcasts an access point. That suggests the SoC boots and responds. If not, recheck wiring and power stability. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21331184]

If timing the power‑toggle never works, what’s the next step?

Ditch pogo pins and solder short, solid leads to 3.3 V, GND, RX, and TX. Mechanical instability often blocks detection. Retest with the same timing approach after improving connection quality. [Elektroda, divadiow, post #21331973]
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