FAQ
TL;DR: If your Tuya TYWE3L lamp stops responding, treat it like an ESP8266 with 2 MB flash—“The TYWE3L is simply an ESP8266”—and power‑test it at 3.3 V; if it appears, the PSU’s bad, else the module/firmware is. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
Why it matters: For DIY fixers of Meko/Tuya lamps, this guides safe, fast diagnosis without trial‑and‑error or risky mains probing.
Quick Facts
- TYWE3L is an ESP8266‑class module; typical flash 2 MB; enter UART boot by holding GPIO0 to GND. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
- Safe bench test: disconnect from 230 V, feed regulated 3.3 V to VDD/GND; avoid USB‑UART 3.3 V pins. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
- No IR receiver was seen on this board; remote is not IR, so check RF/BT control compatibility. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430753]
- A failed TYWE3L can be replaced with a compatible ESP‑12 module footprint. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430753]
- Replacement option cited: Bluetooth LED driver, 40 W, constant current 750–1050 mA. [“Zasilacz LED Bluetooth 40W 750–1050 mA staloprądowy”]
Why won’t my Tuya TYWE3L lamp respond to the remote or Tuya app?
Start by isolating mains and powering the TYWE3L from a stable 3.3 V source. If it shows up in the Tuya app, the internal power supply is failing. If it still doesn’t appear or pair, the Wi‑Fi module or its firmware likely failed. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
How do I power‑test the TYWE3L safely at 3.3 V?
Do this 3‑step check:
- Unplug the lamp from 230 V completely.
- Feed regulated 3.3 V to the TYWE3L VDD and GND with adequate current.
- Scan in the Tuya app; if it appears, suspect the PSU. Do not use a USB‑UART’s 3.3 V pin. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
The lamp won’t enter pairing mode at all—what should I check?
If pairing won’t start and the app never sees it, the control side is offline. Perform the 3.3 V bench‑power test on TYWE3L. If there’s still no broadcast or response, back up the flash and reflash or replace the module. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
Can I back up and flash TYWE3L via USB‑UART? How?
Yes. Wire GND and 3.3 V to VDD, and connect UART. Hold GPIO0 to GND to enter bootloader. Read and save the full 2 MB flash. You can temporarily flash Tasmota to confirm the hardware still works. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
Will flashing Tasmota restore Tuya remote/app control?
No. “Of course Tasmota is not Tuya.” It won’t pair with Tuya cloud or proprietary remotes. Use it to verify LEDs, driver, and module respond, and for basic on/off or dimming during diagnosis. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
Can my USB‑to‑UART adapter power the TYWE3L for testing?
Avoid that. Use a dedicated 3.3 V supply that can deliver sufficient current. As the expert put it, “do not take it e.g. the output of a USB to UART converter.” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
There’s no IR receiver on the board—what does that mean for the remote?
No IR receiver suggests the remote uses RF or Bluetooth handled by the smart module. In that case, Tasmota may not support the original remote protocol without extra hardware or drivers. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430753]
Is the power supply the likely failure point?
Yes, if the module appears when bench‑powered at 3.3 V. Open the PSU and inspect for obvious issues, especially bulging or dried electrolytic capacitors. Replace failed parts or the entire driver as needed. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21449057]
Can I swap in a Bluetooth LED power supply? What spec should I match?
You can, provided the constant‑current rating and voltage range match your LED string. The linked option is 40 W, constant current 750–1050 mA. Verify mechanical fit, wiring, and control method compatibility before purchase. [“Zasilacz LED Bluetooth 40W 750–1050 mA staloprądowy”]
How do I safely remove the TYWE3L module without damaging pads?
Use hot air or a careful iron technique to melt all joints fully. “Only lift when the binder has melted, otherwise the pads will come off! No force.” That edge‑case failure ruins the PCB. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21475719]
My lamp still lights from mains but won’t respond—what does that suggest?
The LED engine and primary driver likely operate, but the control path is down. Focus on the TYWE3L and its 3.3 V rail using the bench‑power test to separate PSU from module faults. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430614]
Can I replace a failed TYWE3L with an ESP‑12 module?
Yes. If the Wi‑Fi module is damaged, a matching ESP‑12 can be soldered in its place. Ensure footprint match and reconfigure firmware to drive your lamp’s channels correctly. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21430753]
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