![[ZIGBEE] 20A Zigbee socket with energy metering (Tuya TS011F_plug_3)](https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1000454900_1749493372_thumb.jpg)
![[W600 / TW-03] Door Sensor - Bootloop on 1.18.110/109 Firmware](https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/5552096400_1749191730_thumb.jpg)
Hello, I don't know if I have put the topic in the right place. I am in the process of building a basement house. A friend of mine will soon be laying the electrics for me and I would like some advice on smart solutions I could apply.
From what I've found on the internet (please correct me if I'm wrong):
1. the Smarthome installation is best distributed in the Star topology, i.e. the wires of those points that I want to control go to the switchboard (to the relays that are connected to the server??) and return. We are mainly talking about light points, sensors, alarms, cameras, roller shutters, etc. This involves significant wiring costs.
2. would this server be, for example, some kind of NUC computer? And if I would like to have a touch panel (tablet) control in one place I guess it would be to connect to it via bluetooth or wifi?
3. moreover, from such electrical points there must come out tercing cables, i.e. e.g. a twisted pair (but it goes one way, so it does not come back?) If a twisted pair has 7 wires, does it mean that one twisted pair can control 7 devices? So in the box from each point we rip the otuilna and take one wire to control each point? To sum up, one point is equipped with 2 wires (L, N) and one twisted pair signal cable which goes to a relay in the box, and this relay, according to the settings set by the server or module, cuts the voltage from L?
4. and it is necessary to obtain two switchboards, one for electrical and one for automation. Possibly a module-segment switchboard like the IF-130? If I do not currently know how many smart points I will have, can such a switchgear be retrofitted or expanded over time?
5) As far as 230 V sockets are concerned, if this is not required, cables can be routed in the traditional way, or I can use socket outlets at the installation stage into which I can fit Wifi modules, e.g. sonoff, in the future. I can then control them cheaply from the furthest away (e.g. sockets outside to control Christmas lights) without having to pull long cables.
Alternatively, I could run a twisted-pair cable linking a number of sockets, which would go to the distribution board, but this would mean that the cables from each socket would have to go to the distribution board anyway, so again, a star?
6 Light attachments. If I wanted to fit some nice looking glass panels do these need to be fitted with dedicated and presumably expensive control modules? Except that I have read that they can be inconvenient and I am wondering whether to do it through bistable switches (self-reversing?) with dedicated modules (I forget the name) that would allow one switch to control several devices through several clicks. E.g. one click turns on the main light, two clicks turns on the leds, 3 clicks turns on everything and a long hold turns everything off, only I don't know if it won't make it more difficult to turn off individual points, but it would certainly take up less space on the wall.
I would also like to be able to switch on/off the same light point from 2 places, e.g. in the bedroom by the bed, to switch on/off the light in the corridor if someone in the house forgets to switch it off. Is this solved in the traditional way with cross switches?
7 I have seen that Grenton modules are recommended, but they are expensive. Is there a cheaper replacement? And will it be possible to encapsulate this in Home Assistant?
8. twisted pairs from touch panels, or physical bistables Cat 5e, but twisted-pair cables in LAN sockets, e.g. for consoles, TVs, network drives, due to their speed, in Cat 6a UFTP?
Some of the solutions I can think of are:
A. Installing humidity sensors in the bathroom to control e.g. the extractor fan.
B. In addition, due to the chimney there, a Chad sensor. Sound signal
C. On the stairs to the cellar and attic, motion detectors at the entrance and exit which would switch on the lights for a specific number of seconds.
D. Time-of-day integrated LED lights that change colour warmth, e.g. K4000 in the middle of the day and warmer later.
E. Time-controlled roller blinds, i.e. if I do not switch them on manually, they open themselves at a given time.
F. Intercom integrated with camera and beeper on loudspeakers to tell if someone is at the gate.
G. Entrance gate and garage door integrated into some sort of infrared switch in the car. I.e. I switch it myself when I arrive, but it doesn't really need to be automated. I suppose it could be combined with a GPS signal, but if I don't want to drive into the garage but just put the car in front of the house, the door will open by itself. So I think I would prefer to switch it on myself.
H. I won't integrate underfloor heating because I've read that it can do more harm than good, so it will be rather standard.
From what I've found on the internet (please correct me if I'm wrong):
1. the Smarthome installation is best distributed in the Star topology, i.e. the wires of those points that I want to control go to the switchboard (to the relays that are connected to the server??) and return. We are mainly talking about light points, sensors, alarms, cameras, roller shutters, etc. This involves significant wiring costs.
2. would this server be, for example, some kind of NUC computer? And if I would like to have a touch panel (tablet) control in one place I guess it would be to connect to it via bluetooth or wifi?
3. moreover, from such electrical points there must come out tercing cables, i.e. e.g. a twisted pair (but it goes one way, so it does not come back?) If a twisted pair has 7 wires, does it mean that one twisted pair can control 7 devices? So in the box from each point we rip the otuilna and take one wire to control each point? To sum up, one point is equipped with 2 wires (L, N) and one twisted pair signal cable which goes to a relay in the box, and this relay, according to the settings set by the server or module, cuts the voltage from L?
4. and it is necessary to obtain two switchboards, one for electrical and one for automation. Possibly a module-segment switchboard like the IF-130? If I do not currently know how many smart points I will have, can such a switchgear be retrofitted or expanded over time?
5) As far as 230 V sockets are concerned, if this is not required, cables can be routed in the traditional way, or I can use socket outlets at the installation stage into which I can fit Wifi modules, e.g. sonoff, in the future. I can then control them cheaply from the furthest away (e.g. sockets outside to control Christmas lights) without having to pull long cables.
Alternatively, I could run a twisted-pair cable linking a number of sockets, which would go to the distribution board, but this would mean that the cables from each socket would have to go to the distribution board anyway, so again, a star?
6 Light attachments. If I wanted to fit some nice looking glass panels do these need to be fitted with dedicated and presumably expensive control modules? Except that I have read that they can be inconvenient and I am wondering whether to do it through bistable switches (self-reversing?) with dedicated modules (I forget the name) that would allow one switch to control several devices through several clicks. E.g. one click turns on the main light, two clicks turns on the leds, 3 clicks turns on everything and a long hold turns everything off, only I don't know if it won't make it more difficult to turn off individual points, but it would certainly take up less space on the wall.
I would also like to be able to switch on/off the same light point from 2 places, e.g. in the bedroom by the bed, to switch on/off the light in the corridor if someone in the house forgets to switch it off. Is this solved in the traditional way with cross switches?
7 I have seen that Grenton modules are recommended, but they are expensive. Is there a cheaper replacement? And will it be possible to encapsulate this in Home Assistant?
8. twisted pairs from touch panels, or physical bistables Cat 5e, but twisted-pair cables in LAN sockets, e.g. for consoles, TVs, network drives, due to their speed, in Cat 6a UFTP?
Some of the solutions I can think of are:
A. Installing humidity sensors in the bathroom to control e.g. the extractor fan.
B. In addition, due to the chimney there, a Chad sensor. Sound signal
C. On the stairs to the cellar and attic, motion detectors at the entrance and exit which would switch on the lights for a specific number of seconds.
D. Time-of-day integrated LED lights that change colour warmth, e.g. K4000 in the middle of the day and warmer later.
E. Time-controlled roller blinds, i.e. if I do not switch them on manually, they open themselves at a given time.
F. Intercom integrated with camera and beeper on loudspeakers to tell if someone is at the gate.
G. Entrance gate and garage door integrated into some sort of infrared switch in the car. I.e. I switch it myself when I arrive, but it doesn't really need to be automated. I suppose it could be combined with a GPS signal, but if I don't want to drive into the garage but just put the car in front of the house, the door will open by itself. So I think I would prefer to switch it on myself.
H. I won't integrate underfloor heating because I've read that it can do more harm than good, so it will be rather standard.
