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Printing with a laser printer on a PCB laminate

lukasku  111 61536 Cool? (+37)
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TL;DR

  • A modified Pantum 2502 laser printer prints directly onto PCB laminate.
  • The modification follows a factory-style Instructables guide, and the cheaper Pantum 2502 without Wi‑Fi uses the same parts as the 2502W.
  • The laser approach replaces the inkjet-and-toner hybrid method and lets boards be prepared quickly from computer designs.
  • The main drawback is expensive toner, but the result was satisfying and easier than "iron methods" with less demanding degreasing.
Generated by the language model.
Some time ago I successfully converted EPSON P50 into a printer that directly prints on the laminate. The effects were very satisfying for me, but the whole difficulty is to find an appropriate waterproof ink. I personally did not succeed in this, which is why I used the hybrid method (printing on an inkjet printer with "waterproof"inks, then sprinkling the toner and then heating the disc), but this method, although cool (it is possible to describe the plate) and quick has a disadvantage, which is the constant memory of cleaning and maintaining the head/carcass in proper order (although by switching on once a week).

A few years ago, I was wondering whether it was possible to print on pcb with a laser printer and everybody said they were not. There are currently several pages showing printer upgrades so that you can print directly onto pcb. I decided to try it out using the description of the factory modification of a new and cheap printer (unfortunately expensive toner) from this website: https://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Pantum-2502W-for-Direct-Laser-/ but using cheaper versions without wi-fi (Pantum 2502 without "W" all parts are identical.

I would like to show you the result in the form of several photographs and a movie, here:





Seeing as well as practicing "iron methods" they are personally for me a "murder". In this method (although more expensive) as well as printing on an inkjet printer, in fact, after designing the plates on a computer for etching they divide a second/minute and as well as how I "worked out" you do not even need great rigours with regard to degreasing.
This fast I dedicate mainly to people who hesitated (I myself had a fear) to try this method.
About Author
lukasku wrote 95 posts with rating 43 . Been with us since 2010 year.

Comments

Freddy 06 Aug 2017 20:14

This method has one major disadvantage. The laminate must be perfectly straight, of appropriate thickness and perfectly polished. :) [Read more]

lukasku 06 Aug 2017 20:27

Let me disagree :) Well, if you look good, it's not a simple laminate at all. In addition, it has a tape (from the front of the tile) protecting against scratches of the photosensitive drum. Testing... [Read more]

mr_grabarz 06 Aug 2017 20:37

and the name of this agent you do not give in both the first and the second post because, because ...? [Read more]

lukasku 06 Aug 2017 20:53

silicon w spreyu ;) [Read more]

jacynka84 06 Aug 2017 21:36

What? And how is copper consumed by silicone ?? [Read more]

lukasku 07 Aug 2017 17:55

It is a silicon spray, which is used to prevent the seals from freezing in the car. Can I digest this silicon? The answer is, I have no idea :) Well, you just need water with washing powder or the... [Read more]

jacynka84 07 Aug 2017 18:03

You can make 2 1-sided prints by your way and connect them with pins with empty pages but you probably know. I have such an idea to use the 3D printer reprap for this operation, instead of, or by coupling... [Read more]

lukasku 07 Aug 2017 18:11

Well, you're right. By editing the printer from the description given at the very top, through the rush the only thing that I managed to spoil is a photoconductor. Unfortunately, the toner with it is expensive,... [Read more]

kortyleski 07 Aug 2017 18:18

All the time I go to my head to cover the laminate with a thin layer of black paint and burn the paths with a CNC laser. And then in the etchant. [Read more]

Freddy 07 Aug 2017 18:27

For what reason, if 99% of the programs have the option of exporting to HPGL, hence the banal to g-code :) .   @lukasku How is it that photos you have from 2007, how the Pantum company was... [Read more]

piotr_go 07 Aug 2017 18:41

He did not want to set the date on the camera :D What is this copper so discolored? [Read more]

Freddy 07 Aug 2017 18:53

Probably so. ;) This discoloration of Piotr, probably after the iron - too high temperature and poor laminate. [Read more]

lukasku 07 Aug 2017 19:22

Exactly :) Not after the iron. Well, one of the few things when modifying the printer is the disassembly of the heater / heater. "Print" is a bit "dry" (even without the use of silicon, the... [Read more]

jacynka84 07 Aug 2017 20:02

Is something else important yet the blocking mechanism must be removed and the laminate heated before passing through the printer? [Read more]

lukasku 07 Aug 2017 20:23

In this link, http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Pantum-2502W-for-Direct-Laser-/ is nicely described with pictures. If I remember correctly, one roll, heaters, make a plate guide and place... [Read more]

Stefan_2000 07 Aug 2017 21:32

I understand that the plate goes to the oven for fixation, and what about the acetone trick shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8 [Read more]

Anonymous 07 Aug 2017 22:23

This is a slotted optocoupler, no reed switch. [Read more]

lukasku 07 Aug 2017 22:35

I have not tried (my plate is 190x190), but it probably works. As soon as I'm doing a new (smaller) plate, I'll try and check it out. Thanks for the correction. My bad. [Read more]

jacynka84 07 Aug 2017 23:36

I've just tested a 405nm laser diode (about, it's blue for violet) and a photosensitive resin (I plan to make a 3D printer but it's cool) and practically harden the 0.1mm layer immediately. As if instead... [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: Pantum P2500 drum replacements cost PLN 180 (~€40) [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16774910]; “after 30 prints durability looks good” [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16628484] Use silicone spray, 0.8–1 mm registration holes, and correct sensor timing to get sub-10 mil tracks quickly.

Why it matters: Direct-laser printing slashes one-off PCB build time from hours to minutes without messy irons.

Quick Facts

• Typical track width achievable: 7–10 mil (0.18–0.25 mm) [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16970352] • Replacement OPC drum costs: Pantum P2500 ≈ PLN 180; Lexmark E460 ≈ PLN 15 [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16774910] • Silicone spray brand tested: K2 Perfect SIL, thin wiped layer [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16630866] • Tray registration hole: 0.8–1 mm, ≤10 mm below NPIS sensor [Elektroda, silelis, post #16876682] • Heating for toner hardening: 180 °C for 3 min or acetone vapour 30 s [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16740784]

What is the correct registration-hole position for Lexmark E260?

Drill a 0.8–1 mm hole about 7–10 mm downstream of the NPIS sensor and 2–5 mm from the sheet edge; farther holes miss the 500–550 ms timing window and toner never fires [Elektroda, silelis, post #16876682]

How do I run the direct-laser printing cycle?

  1. Clean, lightly sand, degrease copper; wipe on thin silicone film.
  2. Feed laminate through modified printer; ensure 180 °C fuser is disabled.
  3. Bake board at 180 °C for 3 min or expose to acetone vapour 30 s to harden toner [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16740784]

What does the full cost of ownership look like?

Converted Pantum setup: used printer PLN 100 + drum PLN 180 + ATtiny + misc ≈ PLN 320 (≈€70). Lexmark route: printer PLN 120, drum PLN 15, total ≈ PLN 150 (≈€33) [Elektroda, lukasku, post #16774910] One commercial 1 m² digital photoplot costs PLN 30–40 [Elektroda, wada, post #16631587], so the break-even is 4–5 prototype runs.
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