FAQ
TL;DR: In a 50-model AA shoot-out, typical alkaline cells delivered ~2 Ah, while lithium hit ~3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]; “branded batteries are not worth buying” [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826] Store-brand alkalines often top price-to-capacity charts.
Why it matters: Choosing the right chemistry and brand can cut battery spend by 50 % without losing run-time.
Quick Facts
• Typical alkaline AA capacity: 1.8–2.2 Ah at 0.2–0.3 A load [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
• Lithium AA starts at 1.6 V and stores approx. 3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
• Price span: store-brand alkaline €0.25–0.35 each vs. big-brand €0.60–1.00 [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]
• Viral test load: constant 0.3 A down to 0.8 V cut-off [Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454]
• High-current toys can draw >2 A bursts; TV remotes <20 mA steady [Elektroda, OldSkull, post #19737202]
How were the AA batteries tested in the viral YouTube review?
All 50 models were discharged at 0.3 A until voltage fell to 0.8 V using the same electronic load, then capacity and cost per watt-hour were ranked
[Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454]
Why do some engineers call 0.3 A “too heavy” for AA testing?
Most consumer devices draw 20–200 mA; continuous 300 mA exaggerates internal resistance losses and shortens run-time, so results favour cells designed for high drain
[Elektroda, ^ToM^, post #19737401]
Which alkaline brands gave the best value?
Is it worth paying extra for “premium” Duracell or Energizer AA?
How can I spot batteries suited for high-drain gadgets?
Look for 1.6 V starting voltage (lithium) or labels like “Power” or “High Drain.” Measure loaded voltage: a drop under 1.1 V at 1 A indicates low-drain chemistry
[Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
What cell fits best in low-drain devices like clocks?
Why don’t primary cells list capacity like rechargeables?
Do batteries really recover when the load is paused?
How consistent are cheap store-brand batteries between batches?
How do I run a simple capacity test at home?
Can I substitute a larger C (R14) cell for an AA?
Only if the device’s holder or an adapter fits; capacity may quintuple but weight increases. Avoid soldering directly to cells to prevent seal damage
[Elektroda, flinc, post #20637393]
What edge-case problems should buyers watch for?
What’s the environmental cost of discarding partly-used cells?
Each alkaline AA contains about 700 mg of zinc and manganese; throwing away 30 % unused charge wastes roughly 0.6 Wh and metals that need energy-intensive mining [US DOE, 2021].
Comments
There is no way to test batteries for different applications in the same way. the alkaline energizer in the mouse lasted 8-10 months for me. duracell over two years. the same with TV remote controls or... [Read more]
In addition, the test result is affected by the condition of the battery, storage conditions and time. [Read more]
How can you find out which of these batteries are for high currents and which are for low and long run? [Read more]
It is also a pity that the test was not repeated many times for different copies (preferably from different batches) of the same battery model. For example, Auchan did very well in the test - but the... [Read more]
I am glad that for a long time without any tests, i.e. only with my own intuition, I buy batteries from Lidl :) Cheap and quite roomy. [Read more]
You can buy different TYPES of batteries, types meaning with different construction and chemistry. Each of them is manufactured for different applications. Others are needed for a child's car, and... [Read more]
Do you know any better test? In my opinion, this test is absolutely ok - it is the basis for determining the parameters you are interested in, such as self-discharge time or capacitance measurement at... [Read more]
Interesting test, the results will be good for flashlight/toy applications etc. the conclusion is that typical alkaline AA is ~2Ah, while the lithium is ~3Ah and the starting voltage is 1.6V. [Read more]
The problem of the battery is that there is no unified designation defining the purpose, i.e. a dedicated load level. Each manufacturer should have at most 3 types of a given size, and not, as is currently... [Read more]
It is worth considering why batteries are not described as rechargeable batteries, in which we have a given capacity, discharge curves for different loads, etc. Or maybe you know the answer? [Read more]
In my opinion, more batteries would be sold on purpose, if you buy the wrong one, you will buy another one in a moment. [Read more]
Maybe so as not to mislead the customer that he is dealing with a rechargeable battery and so that he does not accidentally try to charge such a cell. This test is, in my opinion, too much current. However,... [Read more]
I made a tester like this link and there is also a test of different batteries (load with a light bulb 0.2A, discharge to 0.8V): https://fundamentjezus.blogspot.com/2019/11/tester-capacity-life-battery.html ... [Read more]
Virtually all. This is called electrode depolarization. [Read more]
The best cheap ones I've ever tested (340mA current source) were Varta Industrial. Almost identical to any non-industrial and like GP Inustrial, but cheaper. [Read more]
I was waiting for this test as soon as there was an announcement on yutube. Respect for taking the time. Every year I wait for this type of tests and every year batteries from Lidl lead the way and I... [Read more]
Of all the ones I used in action, the ones branded and bought at IKEA worked best. It was not a test, just repeated use of different companies in the same devices. At the beginning of this year, out of... [Read more]
I confirm. Once, I bought 10 pieces from the year of production 2011 and the expiration date until 2016. The last one works in the calculator so far, unfortunately I don't remember when I put it on. ... [Read more]
Depends on what's prime. They are nice and available. But as someone already mentioned, try to change the load and the result will be different. Even change the voltage at the end of the test and the... [Read more]