230V contactor controlled by a 5V USB signal - which model to choose?

Hi. I need a device like this, a contactor, which when switched on with 5V, e.g. from a USB, would connect the input to the 230V output. Maybe someone knows of such a device to make it work properly then please suggest.

Auxiliary relay at 5V.

That is, I will need two devices - a relay and a contactor. Only I need the exact models, types, names or links. Specifically, what I want is that when the TV is switched on, the socket on the cable would simply switch on. I figured it could just be from the USB power supply. Or maybe there is another, better and simpler way of doing this then please give me a hint.

ziboss wrote:

contactor which, when switched on with 5V e.g. from USB, would connect the input to the 230 V output

Here you have a relay

http://botland.com.pl/przekazniki/1276-przeka...-s14-2c-0505-cewka-5v-styki-2x-5a-250vac.html

ziboss wrote:

the socket on the cable just came on

And what do you want to power from it because this relay can withstand 2x5A current so maybe it would be better for this relay to control the contactor.

Use an SSR relay.

Relpol relay RMB851 (there is a version with a 5V DC coil, the relay itself is 16A/250VAC to which a GZS-80 base is added if it is to be in a cabinet.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

mawerix123 wrote:

And what do you want to power from it because this relay can handle 2x5A current so maybe it's better to have this relay control the contactor.

It is supposed to power a home cinema which was left over from an old set, i.e. a TV with a built-in DVD and this cinema. Everything works but now it is switched on separately with a switch. The result is that if you switch off the TV and forget about the cinema, you can fry an egg on it after a few hours.

dzik84 wrote:

Relpol relay RMB851 (there is a version with a 5V DC coil, the relay itself 16A/250VAC for this is a GZS-80 base if this is to be in a cabinet.

This is not the right solution, as this arrangement will break the L or N path depending on the position of the plug in the power socket. A better solution is to use two such relays , then there will be a complete disconnection of the device from the mains.

The author didn't mention that the device is plugged in, in which case yes a 2z relay or two of this relpole would fall out

That is, what would be the best solution. I would be grateful if someone else would describe exactly how to connect all this.

Hello, maybe something like this will suit you? http://www.gotronik.pl/modul-przekaznika-5v-optoizolacja-p-2833.html Greetings.


Link corrected. [Luke]

You need to consider where and how to mount the relay and cabling so that no mishap occurs. For this reason, however, I would recommend a master-slave power strip for such applications. This has one master socket, to which you plug the TV, and slave sockets, on which the voltage will appear when the TV starts up. Usually such strips also have a socket which has a permanent power supply. And an example of such a strip under the link Link1 Link2
So we have all the functions you require and all in an aesthetically pleasing, safe housing.
And if we already want to do something, I do not recommend a solution with a USB socket for stimulating a relay, unless we want to damage this USB socket (possibly you need to protect it properly, because it will die quickly).

To use a master-slave power strip is a great solution. But you have to fork out between a hundred and seven hundred. Regards.

You can do something but with your head. Making a USB socket in the TV is not the best solution either. Besides, I bought such a strip for 70PLN in a stationary shop about 6-7 months ago.
Alternatively, there are several ways to protect the USB socket on the electrode, you just have to look for them.
The circuit suggested by PEPE should also do the trick.
Another solution is a properly selected current relay - for example such a Link .

lukaszd82 wrote:

Another solution is a suitably selected current relay - for example such a Link.

Nonsense.
The safest relay is an SSR because of the built-in optocoupler at the input, and the RC surge suppression circuit at the output. You have opto-isolation between circuits by definition.

I wrote that your solution is suitable.
As far as the current relay is concerned, this solution also works very well. It is used, for example, in some industrial hoovers to switch on the hoover when a power tool plugged into its socket is switched on. So don't write that this is nonsense.
Besides, I myself have such a relay with a turn-on current measured on a 0.16A cable and it works really well.
Don't criticise others in advance because there are many solutions and it all depends on the approach.

if the control is via usb etc., optisolation is the best solution, it would be a pity to damage the control device.

In the end I didn't use any relays etc. mainly because no one specifically said what they should be and how to connect it. I left it so that the set is permanently switched on and a 5V signal from the USB TV switches the whole set on and it's even fine, only when the TV is switched off, there is a rather loud knocking in the speakers.
I wanted to use relays to switch everything off completely. I also thought that if the cinema was plugged in all the time, it would heat up, just like before, when you forgot to switch off the set manually and switched off the cinema power supply and the power supply together - the signal to switch on the set. Currently the USB signal turns the whole set on and off and when it is switched off it does not heat up but remains in standby. So thank you all for your interest and hints.
I am closing the topic.