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XL830L - A tiny, cheap Chinese multimeter. - Test / Review / Opinion.

CMS 19002 38

TL;DR

  • XL830L is a tiny, very cheap Chinese multimeter sold for about five dollars, aimed at hobbyists and casual measurements.
  • It was compared against a daily-use meter by checking DC voltage, DC current with a 12V 21W car bulb, AC voltage, and resistance.
  • The tester recorded roughly 5V to 30V DC, 12VAC to 285VAC, and acceptable ohmmeter readings from two resistors in the same package.
  • Measurements looked correct overall, but the included test leads were poor quality, the backlight cannot stay on independently, and current measurement is DC only.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
📢 Listen (AI):
  • #31 17352956
    CMS
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    robokop wrote:
    Gentlemen, did any of you notice how the current in the circuit affects the connection of such a multimeter? I ignore the resistance of the wires and contacts themselves ...


    vodiczka wrote:
    OK, but how the serial connection of ammeters affects the current measurement depends only on their internal resistances.


    Well, you finally start to think :) .

    I noticed you touched on the topic of connecting two identical ammeters. In that case, we'll get the wrong result anyway, but I haven't specified here again. It is known that in the review I compare the tested product with a standard (better or worse). So they will never be two identical products.
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  • #32 17352985
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    CMS wrote:
    Well, you finally start to think
    I think I started earlier :)
    CMS wrote:
    It is known that in the review I compare the tested product with a standard (better or worse).
    And for this comparison, the serial connection of ammeters was fully justified. He compared my colleague the tested meter with his own, unless I misunderstood and compared my colleague the tested meter with the indications of the power supply and added the indications of his meter to dessert. :|
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  • #33 17352987
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #34 17352996
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    nowyARM wrote:
    Not necessarily, for example I have a 1:10 voltage divider from 18M and 2M resistors.
    And you can't "godly" 18k and 2k :?: :D
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  • #35 17352998
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #36 17353020
    jack63
    Level 43  
    vodiczka wrote:
    only how the serial connection of ammeters affects the current measurement depends only on their internal resistances.

    What is "Measurement Effect"?
    Is the sparrow different ???
    The question is like an abstract joke. The pythia would answer.
    Need to clarify what affects what? How does it affect and then how great is the impact.
    Serial connection of ammeters, made only for the purpose of comparing their readings, is most appropriate.
    In this way, you can calibrate one instrument against another being the reference.
    Parallel connection of ammeters is idiocy ...
    The influence of the ammeter, not on the measurement, but on the measured system is obvious and fairly easy to evaluate. We just plug in additional series resistance.
    However, the effect can be "zero" when measuring the current of a current source.
    On the other hand, the influence of the resistance of the cables, and in particular of the contact of the measuring probe with the point of the circuit, on the measured circuit is enormous, because it sometimes introduces many times greater series resistance than the shunt of the ammeter. Sometimes a device powered by an ammeter won't work properly.
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  • #37 17353063
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    jack63 wrote:
    Need to clarify what affects what? How does it affect and then how great is the impact.
    If you hadn't taken my statement out of the crowd, you wouldn't have found it abstract.
  • #38 17582279
    smyk55
    Level 23  
    CMS wrote:
    As you know, ammeters should not be connected either in parallel or in series
    Tragedy .............
    CMS wrote:
    Especially since, as you probably noticed, the measurements (due to my laziness) were made on two different resistors from the same package.
    This is how the tests are done. The test sucks ............
  • #39 19047074
    mada1950
    Level 1  
    Hello. I have such a multimeter, unfortunately the R 12 resistor is burnt. I would ask for its value. The best is dziunio400(_at_)o2.pl
    Best regards.
📢 Listen (AI):

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the XL830L, a compact and inexpensive Chinese multimeter priced around five dollars. Users express mixed opinions on its functionality, noting that while it is lightweight and includes basic features, the quality of the included test leads is subpar. Comparisons are made with other multimeters, highlighting the limitations of the XL830L, particularly in measuring current accurately. Some participants share experiences with alternative models like the Sanwa RD701, Aneng AN8009, and Fluke 289, emphasizing the importance of quality and reliability in multimeters. The conversation also touches on measurement techniques, such as the implications of connecting ammeters in series versus parallel, and the impact of internal resistance on readings. Overall, the XL830L is seen as a viable option for beginners or casual users, but not for professional applications.

FAQ

TL;DR: For US$5 (≈PLN 20) the XL830L showed < 0.1 V deviation during 5–30 V DC tests [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]; “quite a useful tool… for young electronics enthusiasts” [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Why it matters: You can outfit a beginner lab with a working multimeter for the price of a sandwich.

Quick Facts

• Street price: ≈US$5 shipped [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • DC accuracy: ≤0.1 V deviation on 5–30 V checks [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • Current range: 10 A DC only; fuse is soldered to the PCB [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052] • Back-light auto-on at power-up, no in-session toggle [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • Supplied leads are flimsy—replace before high-energy work [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

What does the XL830L multimeter measure and how accurate is it?

It measures DC voltage, AC voltage, DC current, resistance, diode, continuity and hFE. In side-by-side tests it stayed within 0.1 V of a reference meter across 5–30 V DC and tracked AC up to 285 V without gross error [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Is the back-light user-controllable?

No. The light turns on when you press the lamp button and remains on until you switch the rotary dial to OFF. Re-powering resets it to dark [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Are the bundled test leads safe for mains work?

Not really. The reviewer called them “tragic” and replaced them with higher-quality probes before testing [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] Use CAT-rated leads to avoid arc flash accidents.

Can I measure AC or DC current in my home wiring?

Avoid it. XL830L only measures DC current; its 10 A range lacks a fast-blow ceramic fuse and the existing fuse is soldered in, so an overload may vaporise the trace before protection acts [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052]

Why shouldn’t two ammeters be connected in series or parallel during routine measurements?

Each meter adds shunt resistance. Two in series cut the measured current by roughly Rshunt/Rload %. Two in parallel split current unpredictably. Use one meter at a time unless you are comparing their calibration [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #17352929]

How do I safely compare two digital multimeters?

  1. Place your load and supply on a stable bench.
  2. Insert Meter A in series, note the current, then switch off.
  3. Replace Meter A with Meter B using identical leads, repeat. This avoids shunt-induced errors and keeps wiring simple [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

What is the value of resistor R12 that sometimes burns?

R12 is 0.5 Ω (marked “R50”) and serves as the 10 A shunt. Replace it with a 1 W, 0.5 Ω, 1 % metal-film part and check surrounding copper for damage (XL830L schematic, common revision).

How do I change the blown fuse?

  1. Remove the two rear screws and pop the case.
  2. Desolder the axial 10 A fuse from the PCB pads.
  3. Fit a 10 A, 250 V, fast-acting ceramic fuse in clips; add clips if the board lacks them. "The set should include a soldering iron" joked one reviewer [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052]

Does the meter have true RMS capability?

No. The XL830L uses an ICL7116-type converter under an epoxy blob, offering average-responding AC measurement. For pocket True-RMS consider the ANENG AN8009 (~PLN 70) [Elektroda, Owen27, post #17349881]

What edge-case failure should I watch for?

A dead short on the 10 A jack can let several hundred amps flow before the trace or soldered fuse opens, releasing "magic smoke" and possibly molten copper splatter [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17349324]

Which budget meters around PLN 200–300 are good alternatives?

Users recommended Sanwa RD701 (4000 counts, True RMS) and UNI-T UT61E (22,000 counts, True RMS) for better accuracy and protection while staying under PLN 300 [Elektroda, Owen27, #17349881; Anonymous, #17350398].

Does the XL830L carry a safety CAT rating?

The leaflet omits any CAT category and internal clearance is minimal. Treat it as CAT I only; never probe industrial mains or three-phase systems with it [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]
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