Termet ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS + ROUND with Wi-Fi - Open-Therm - connected incorrec

On the Termet website it is written what works with the application. You just have to read ... the key word "Termet Comfort"

Does this controller turn off the boiler after reaching the set temperature in the room where the thermometer is located?

Added after 22 [minutes]:

bro2004 wrote:

On the Termet website it is written what works with the application. You just have to read ... the key word "Termet Comfort"

That's what you mean?
https://www.termet.com.pl/pl/produkt/pakiet-p...awowy-do-systemu-quot-termet-comfort-quot/153

how is it different from this?

https://www.termet.com.pl/pl/produkt/termet-st-2801-wi-fi/119

best regards

Everything is shown in the price list https://www.termet.com.pl/upload/upload/cennik/Cennik_01.07.2021.pdf page 37
the second one https://www.techsterźniki.pl/p/st-2801-wifi please read the operating instructions, everything is described ...

Sorry, but I'm a total layman about these things. Do I understand correctly that the Termet Comfort System allows you to control the temperature in 6 rooms if you buy 6 heads? Can such heads be placed on the beam of the underfloor heating manifold and then you can control each room separately from the smartphone level? I understand well while this TECH driver does not have these functions but is more expensive?

If I had a floor, I would take the termet comfort, because it allows you to control the heads, a small tablet is screwed to the wall and you have a grazing management system. In ST-2801 you can only have control of the boiler.

maliniak80 wrote:

If I had a floor, I would take the termet comfort, because it allows you to control the heads, a small tablet is screwed to the wall and you have a grazing management system. In ST-2801 you can only have control of the boiler.

It is said that this is not good for the maternity period? Are these heads only for radiators? This is what a termet service technician told me

https://www.termet.com.pl/pl/produkt/glowica-komfort-do-systemu-quot-termet-comfort-quot/152

Hello. I bought a Gold 1f 25kw this year and I am at the stage of choosing the driver. Single-family house, floor space everywhere, about 190 sq m. The installer with the contractor recommends the wireless Salus. I want the furnace not to clock and be economical, from your entries it appears that tech 2801 or thermet is ok, but at the moment it costs about PLN 1200. What do you recommend with a smaller budget, up to PLN 500?

I will write this, spend some time this heating season on adjusting the flows and selecting the heating curve, and you will come to the conclusion that the controller is just a nice gadget
Gold has the weather and all the necessary settings in it, all you need to do is install the external sensor.
Unless the floor made by fahofca? Describe the installation.

Tomorrow morning I will send photos of the boiler room.
You mean such a sensor?
https://allegro.pl/oferta/termet-czujnik-temp-zewnetrznej-wkc0567000000-10428803451

Aglaza wrote:

You mean such a sensor?
https://allegro.pl/oferta/termet-czujnik-temp-zewnetrznej-wkc0567000000-10428803451

Termet has an external sensor in such a housing, you only need to make sure that it is an original and not a replacement. Although the description suggests it should be original.

If you have 100% floor heating, the floor heats up for a long time and cools down for a long time, so in my opinion adjusting with the room regulator makes no sense. Ordinary ON / OFF based solely on hysteresis is omitted and would have to be with an additional algorithm to take into account the high inertia of the floor heating.
In such a system, Wojtermet25 is right that the appropriate flows and the heating curve should solve the problem and there will be no regulator.

Added after 7 [minutes]:

maliniak80 wrote:

If I had a floor, I would take termet comfort, because it allows you to control the heads

only if you have properly set the flows and the supply temperature using the curve, you do not need to open and close the water flow through the floor heating circuit.

Added after 1 [minute]:

Top 7 Circuits
Down 9
Plus two ladders in the bathrooms
All loops as equal, about 90-95 meters

The external sensor is ok, it can also be in a different housing, but like the original packaging signed by Termet, it will be ok.
Regarding the installation, well, I felt that way
This is an installation for a high-temperature boiler and additionally very imperfect control of the supply temperature. What does its creator say about the exploitation? But let him not propose additional fountains, because the cost of its implementation has probably been increased by 1kPLN. And it was enough to make a decent project and probably only the boiler and manifolds would suffice.

It says that it is enough to set the pumps to gear 2 and control the temperature with thermostats visible in the photo in the range of 30-35 degrees.
So it could have been easier?
Will it work in this arrangement?

Aglaza wrote:

It says that it is enough to set the pumps to gear 2 and control the temperature with thermostats visible in the photo in the range of 30-35 degrees.
So it could have been easier?

It was possible.
The boiler itself has the ability to regulate the temperature in the range of 25-55 degrees, so the temperature on the boiler could be suitable directly for the floor heating and you do not need any thermostats and water mixing to lower it to the floor level.
But then the ladders would be useless, because the water on the ladders would be too cool to heat them up to the right temperature.
I do not know about the floor heating, but apparently if the loops were up to 70m, then the pump built into the boiler could handle it, i.e. it would be as Wojtermet25 wrote:

Wojtermet25 wrote:

And it was enough to make a decent project and probably only the boiler and manifolds would suffice.

Unfortunately, the market is full of specialists, and life shows that there are many professional bunglers who consider themselves professionals, because they follow the usual pattern that they know and know how to perform instead of treating each order as different, because each installation is different and unique.

There was an option of power supply directly from the boiler, but then the ladders were cold,
There was also an option of a ladder for electricity,
Ultimately it turned out like this.
From what I understand, there are ladders powered directly from the boiler and the floor is powered by pumps and thermostats.
The first heating season is ahead of me, I am curious how it will work.

Aglaza wrote:

There was an option of power supply directly from the boiler, but then the ladders were cold,
There was also an option of a ladder for electricity,

I would prefer a well-functioning floorstand in the simplest possible variant, at the expense of the lack of ladders.
Ladders could be made electric for drying towels.

Aglaza wrote:

From what I understand, there are ladders powered directly from the boiler and the floor is powered by pumps and thermostats.

ladders require a higher boiler water temperature, so in theory the boiler will heat the water for the ladders, and then the floor heating will have cooled water to ensure the temperature is right for the floor heating. It unnecessarily increases the investment costs and makes it difficult to control the whole thing later. I have not analyzed your photos in detail, so I am writing vaguely.
You have thermostatic heads with a capillary, so you set the water temperature manually, and there could be a variant with weather regulation and automatic water temperature change depending on the outside temperature.
In my opinion, making a mixed installation (floor heating + radiators) only for the sake of ladders is a misguided idea. Ideally, the installation should be uniform, i.e. 100% radiators or 100% floor heating.
I already have some knowledge and vision of heating, so I certainly would not allow such a monster in my home.

My colleague BUCKS has probably already explained everything and I fully agree. The ladder, if it is to be used as a dryer, it is enough to supply it with the floor temperature.
By supplying everything directly from the boiler, you would have a simpler, cheaper, more economical and more functional heating installation.
It will heat up somehow, it will only require maintenance and less economically. And please do not be persuaded to any additional controllers or thermostats, just because if you are not satisfied with the comfort, you have to redo this installation as it should be done.

So I understand that at the moment, if the boiler temperature is reduced to the temperature that will be supplied to the floor heating, let's say 30 degrees, it will be easier for me to control it with the heating curve.

I don't really understand the question, but I'll try to answer it my way. The heating curve is a line on the graph that shows us at a given outside temperature, we have its corresponding supply temperature. When choosing the weather control (of course, after installing the external sensor), select the number of a specific curve and it is displayed on the boiler controller, and the temperature is selected automatically.
My suggestion is to unscrew these thermostat heads to max, set the weather control on the boiler and start selecting the curve, starting with say 2.0
Heat it up for a few days and watch the temperatures in the house settle down. When it is too warm, the correction is -0.2, when it is too cold, then the other way is +0.2 and again at least a day's break in the settings and watch.
In addition, there is also the setting of flows through individual loops, as well as delicate corrections and waiting for the result. A job that requires patience due to the high inertia of the OP.
In the boiler manual, there are tables with curves for the OP and the traditional one, there you can view approximate supply temperatures for a given curve.

I would add that the heating curve determines that e.g. if it is +10 outside, the water will be 25 degrees, if it is 0 outside, the water will be 32 degrees, if it is -20 outside, the boiler water will be it was 40 degrees.
These are just examples of imaginary temperatures, changing the heating curve changes the temperature to which the boiler will heat the water for a specific outside air temperature.
Without weather regulation, you would have to manually change the temperature as needed.

Only at home you have to remember that the temperature on the boiler is not enough, because you have regulation on the heads, so Wojtermet25 wrote, you unscrew the heads to the maximum, i.e. about 50 degrees, and then you will use the boiler to regulate the temperature as needed.
Unfortunately, it is a bit of fun with it, because due to high inertia, the effects of changes are best observed for the next day.
In this way we simulate the conditions as if you did not have these heads.
Normally the boiler has an adjustable temperature range of 40-80 degrees, which is suitable for radiators, and in the service menu you can turn on the range dedicated to the floor heating and then you will have 25-55, so change this range first.
The installation manual describes the procedure for entering the service menu and which parameter is responsible for activating the range 25-55.

Ok. Thanks for the advice and hints, there will be a service technician on Friday for the first start-up of the boiler.
And so far it's studying the operating instructions.
I have not found any info about the floor heating program, so I understand that this boiler does not have one

Aglaza wrote:

I have not found any info about the floor heating program, so I understand that this boiler does not have one

There is no need, you yourself have to take care of the proper operation of the boiler depending on your needs.

Exactly, you have to generate the burn-in program yourself, search the internet for the day vs burn-in temperature schedule and manually change the supply temperature according to this. If the floors are fresh (but ready for heating, that is, they are a month old), heat and air, because there may be a lot of moisture and it would be a pity that it would enter the house.

And I have this deal:
1. Termet Cristal II 1f
2.Salus RT520RF openterm controller
3. aluminum radiators
How do my colleagues arrange it so that it suffers and you know the temperature economically and what else am I a layman?

I am looking for a driver for ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS which:
- is compatible with opentherm (or some other protocol that will allow for something more advanced than on / off)
- maybe you can be controlled remotely. Has built-in wifi or can be integrated with HomeAssistant (e.g. zigbee, z-wave, serial port)
- will be able to control the thermostatic heads on the radiator (remotely or wired, no matter what)

I have sent a query to Termet for the following drivers:
- EVOHOME in the open-therm version
- Netatmo smart Modulating Thermostat
- Tado ° Wired Smart Thermostat
- Google Nest Thermostat

In response, I received

Quote:

EVOHOME in the open-therm version does not work with the ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS boiler. Although the boiler is equipped with this type of communication, the protocols are not compatible with each other. Each manufacturer modifies it according to their needs, therefore EVOHOME, as a Honeywell product, communicates with the Crystal series boilers in which the Honeywell controller is used, but does not connect with ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS.

The rest, however, was not tested with the exchanged boiler.

I know there is TECH ST2801. However, it does not seem to control anything other than the stove itself (no possibility to control the radiator).
Has anyone combined the above drivers with Ecodens? Maybe someone will recommend something else that meets the criteria?

The comfort module from Termet is compatible with the boiler, has internet access and has room thermostats that work with the heads. See the Termet page for a description of this system. But it's too expensive for me.

The appearance of the regulator is not amazing, but it would be survivable. Can boiler modulation be achieved with the Comfort system? In what I read, I do not see clear information.

What are you all clinging to this modulation?
The Termet Ecocondens Gold Plus boiler is so great that it does not need any additional controller for modulation, it already has it. It also has weather control, you only need to add an external sensor for PLN 60.

Everywhere they say that opentherm and modulation save gas consumption. On the other hand, there is the opinion that on/off drivers are worse, they waste money. So if the boiler has built-in modulation, should it also modulate with on/off controllers and an external sensor? So I can buy EVOHOME, Netatmo or Tado ° plus outdoor temperature sensor and enjoy the same (or better) economy as with opentherm?

And then I do not have a clear answer as to the modulation of the Comfort system itself?

I just don't know what you mean by "modulation".
Probably most of the boilers available on the market today have modulation of the burner (its power) and do not need additional drivers. Some also have capacity modulating pumps.
Now for additional drivers. They can be ON OFF and they only let the boiler know whether to heat or not. There are also dedicated controllers that communicate with the boiler in two directions and they have greater possibilities, it depends on the manufacturer of the boiler what they can do and what additional functions they bring.
In Termeta, the communication protocol is OT and Line for the comfort module.
As for the OT controllers, I have modest experience only with CR 11011 (because with my version of the boiler software v12 it does not work properly) and it, in addition to having an overview of the basic parameters of the boiler, can also dictate what temperature it should give to the installation on on the basis of external and internal temperature (but only in the range below the preset room temperature, it can add x degrees to the temperature finished from the heating curve).
I do not know what possibilities the comfort module has, apart from those described briefly in advertising brochures. The only advantage is that you can install several room thermostats (controllers) and each of them can control several radiator heads, and all this is handled by one application.
In my opinion, the basic mistake of most investors is that they install xx controllers, thermostats and other gadgets, instead of first trying to tune the installation to the boiler with the weather forecast and let it prove, and leave any additions for later.
If you only have an underfloor heating system, it is enough to select the appropriate curve and set the flows and you can forget about heating. Underfloor heating does not like to be disturbed, the water has to circulate all the time, only the supply temperature changes.