Termet ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS + ROUND with Wi-Fi - Open-Therm - connected incorrec

Sorry, you are right, I am watching my basic right now and it has a network connection with cables transferred to the control side, just unsolder 2 thick wires and a viola.

PS
But the fact that gold plus for some kennels periodically moved in, it maintains that it is an exaggeration, neither the low temperature will save anything that it would be returned and even on a low parameter it warms up for a long time.

I also have a gold 20 termet, but unfortunately it was produced with the old software (before week 26, 2018), i.e. without the OT support implemented in the boiler software. I wrote to the tester because they helped someone with the update. This time they did not help. Do you know how much it would cost to replace the control board with OT support?

I recently talked to the Termet service and they said that there is no problem with changing the software (I have 12 and the newest is 14), only you need to disassemble and send them the plates or the entire driver (safer).
I saw the tiles in the online store and they cost about PLN 400, but I do not know what the software has, because I did not go into it, and you need to replace both (main and display).

It's a bit expensive.

I have b12 and they uploaded it to me 2 months ago, are you sure Wojtermet25 is already v14? It doesn't even have a changelog, but it's probably hardly anyone's public
Tiesto83 and it was not that it had to be a newer album, but not 2018 and some week in 2017? You must mix something ...
If the motherboard does not allow communication, you will not do anything, you do not have OT terminals, right? And I have a driver from 2019 (I checked the production week especially) and soft was played without any problems (note because I did not change the model to 1F after the update and it took an hour to straighten it because it did not move). Anyway, I am testing several OT controllers and I already had a leader, but now I have not cut off the boiler power twice and overheated the apartment (21 set, 26 reached and it was still heating). It also hits me. All these drivers have some nuances, this one has no backlight, the one with poor functions and power supply from AA instead of OT. Another some eggs goes ...
Today I would buy a Valiant ISOtwin because it is much smaller, the same parameters, stainless, can control the circulation from the controller) and even it has the option of attaching the OT board as if someone needed it (for only 600 PLN lol). In my opinion, the tester company is friendly, you do not need to send it to the termet where they can take it to the tester in a week and in a month you have the plate back at home (read without an intermediary, I had it covered in 5 working days). A bit of lime from the software can not be played at home - for those who are more kumatych some JTAG etc.

It's not cheap, but they go to foreigners for a thousand .
What control do you think you need OT support?

krzys-iek wrote:

Tiesto83 and it was not that it had to be a newer album, but not 2018 and some week in 2017? You must mix something ...

In Termeta, they replied that the cut-off date is the 26th week of 2018.
I think about OT because I have an ordinary On-Off regulator and it is a bit clunky, however, it is.

I got information about v14 from the factory service and even during my conversation there was a live consultation with the programmer from the tester.
Your problems with the boiler not turning off after exceeding the set hysteresis are just a bug in v12 with OT control and it is corrected in v14.
This phenomenon certainly occurs when controlled by Tech st 2801.
Edit
I found that zygmunt22 in September already wrote about v14 in this thread.

Thanks .... I will write to the tester again. Eggs, eggs, eggs. Should I be left without a boiler in the winter? Because that's what it boils down to.
I am testing Pt52 Czech and I am already eating them (because the driver has bugs anyway) in my head and here the tester gave the body?
On the control without curves (turned off in the controller) everything seems to work. And with the curves (the Czech driver takes over this function - the curves on the term are blinking) I do not turn off when I get stuck and I thought that the driver was so stupid (the Czech one) because it warmed me up a lot when I was at work.
Okay, I'll send them a CD and they'll be left without heating, no option So soon they released 2 new versions and I have 12 (it came from the factory with 11).

Do you have parameter P26 set to 3?
Edit
P26 Weather function working mode
0 ÷ 3
(0-off, 1-work with a room regulator,
2-work without. room regulator, 3-work with
room regulator without possibility
deactivation of the weather function by the controller
peace with OT)

And ask the factory service, because this is how I conclude from my conversation with them that it is possible for a service technician to replace the disc with one with the latest software as a warranty service (only mine is not covered by the warranty ?

I think I set it to 3 (for sure the curves icon is flashing, i.e. from what I know it means that the room controller takes over the curves).
I have just talked with a nice gentleman from Tester and he says that in some time there will be v15 where else you can choose what type of algorithm / approach to use for the Cron-Shreder thermal comfort (I could have written it wrong) or the Honeywell company. I will also wait until spring for a newer soft. My current problems are probably a bug in the Czech driver.
The gentleman from the tester said I got something wrong? There was some mistake but they changed the type with comfort algorithms or something?
If all control is in room control, including curves, what is the hysteresis through the boiler? In the room, the thermostat sensor shows 26, the floor is noticeably warm, and here it still heats ... what hysteresis should be tested by the boiler? The boiler can only turn off the heating when by 5C the temperature at the boiler output is exceeded (then L3 enters). But L3 does not appear often to me anymore because the starting power has been reduced and shorter work is on it, then it does not turn on. I also extended the L3 time for 10 minutes. Earlier I had so that every now and then L3 showed, but maybe it was the fault of this thermostat, which still ordered to heat despite reaching the set temperature a long time ago. Currently, I haven't seen L3 for some time at the start, what's interesting when my house is overheating too. The curves probably so increase that the output can be up to 45C. The boiler modulates to 0 or max 10%. And when the room overheated, it even worked for 0. I have a live preview on the LCD of both devices through IP cameras. Anyway, Mr. Tester states that it is the fault of the controller that it does not turn off, the boiler must constantly read the "heating still" signal.

Once again, what error do you have with your Techa driver that you had to call for all the saints, but maybe not the same? You are blinking the curve icon on the termim? Do you have a low inclined curve, including tech, overheats the house and does not turn off the boiler via OT signal? If the temperatures were exceeded after some time, L3 would turn on. Such security (this is not a bug, more information). We have to habilitate in this and I really have something else to do: /

PS
Termeta service, I have mixed feelings, they did not reply to the e-mail and they did, the service technician pissed me off - local. So I would have to call another service technician and what will come to me for free when I report it under warranty? I bought a Polish product and I will either spit in my beard or be proud. The equipment itself is ok so far, but all these habilitations and fights with the OT are a bit annoying. The tester, in my opinion, keeps the level and does not send back to the termet (where there is no chance that they would get everything at the level I expected). And they could drink.

When it flashes, you have option 1, I had it too, for 3 there are boiler curves and so I have now, because my controller is an OT prosthesis in the form of a Round thermostat, an OT boiler gate and an internet gateway. It works like a regular on off, but the application can preview the internal one and change it.
Speaking of 2801, I do not have it, but I got this information from the Termet technical department that there was such an error in v12 that the boiler, despite operating at the minimum and exceeding the set x * C (parameter P20), continued to work and did not go into L3 (I also have for 10 minutes)
And when it comes to contacting the service, the opposite is true in my case, I learned more from Termet.
Edit
I also noticed that it goes down to 0 very often and continues to work.

Wojtermet25 wrote:

When it flashes, you have option 1, I had it too, for 3 there are boiler curves and so I have now, because my controller is an OT prosthesis in the form of a Round thermostat, an OT boiler gate and an internet gateway. It works like a regular on off, but the application can preview the internal one and change it.
Speaking of 2801, I do not have it, but I got this information from the Termet technical department that there was such an error in v12 that the boiler, despite operating at the minimum and exceeding the set x * C (parameter P20), continued to work and did not go into L3 (I also have for 10 minutes)
And when it comes to contacting the service, the opposite is true in my case, I learned more from Termet.
Edit
I also noticed that it goes down to 0 very often and continues to work.

Right P26 = 1 in my case. Interesting fact, as I had the Salus RT520 test, he also supposedly took over the curves (the icon on the termette is flashing) but he did not have them soft, nothing could be set (neither which curve, nor anything else). So the Lord from Tester made me realize it (you will not find it in the instructions for the boiler ...) that P26 must be at 3 in such a case that the curves are realized by the church.
Why do you have such a stupid prosthesis and a road? On Off via the Internet, do you have this store or something that you want to remotely close?

For me, L3 always turns on, I have a maximum heating of 45 on the room thermostat, which probably gives a 50C threshold on L3 (I have 5 hysteresis). And so a lot for a floor probably.

0 power is not so logical right? 0 is nothing, the gas is off. But according to them, 0 is simply the minimum. And so it warms me now, which slowly reaches the set temperature, but also it will not heat the floor as a buffer that will give me heat after cutting and overheating. Also the lowest and most condensate return temperature?

Without fun, the starting power and sometimes I had it so that it was L3, it was heating 30 seconds and again L3, sick and so on. He clocked this way 12 times an hour. Now it's ok but it sticks to 0% modulation, sometimes 5-7 and I rarely see 10%. And that's what's cool that this Czech PT52 shows it all, I have a church in my attic, I won't go there every now and then. Also, DHW can control it and block heating, e.g. at night, to limit losses. See how much writing, reading and thinking I would like to connect and forget ... and here is either a castrato driver or some eggs. It is best to buy the On / Off they offer in the package. In turn, why do I need gold then with goodies?

Because of this prosthesis, I am angry with myself, I could not find anywhere what it is possible to do, but I say, as access via the net, it will be full of grazing after installing it, disappointment ?. In the coal boiler with a feeder, I had full access and a preview of everything, so I did not want to have it worse, but here is the bowel.
Now I am waiting until I am sure which driver has the capabilities I expect and I am about to buy something.
I also reduced the starting power because it was clocking like crazy at the factory

Wojtermet25 wrote:

Because of this prosthesis, I am angry with myself, I could not find anywhere what it is possible to do, but I say, as access via the net, it will be full of grazing after installing it, disappointment ?. In the coal boiler with a feeder, I had full access and a preview of everything, so I did not want to have it worse, but here is the bowel.
Now I am waiting until I am sure which driver has the capabilities I expect and I am about to buy something.
I also reduced the starting power because it was clocking like crazy at the factory

I have good info from Tester. You have a LIN connector from the housing, a loose cable. The tester made his driver, probably according to his own design and not on the OT. I don't know why OT avoid this, maybe it will have even more fairy tales? It will be on the market at a good price and sometime soon.

But I wanted to stay with OT ... and still something here. Stupid salus RT520 is de facto how it only works on OT, sick eh? And it must have AA LOL batteries! The Czech Pt52 is the best in features but something I'm not sure about. The manufacturer is supposed to improve this and that, but for a year still poor translation into Polish.

I want to have a full overview of what is happening, so now I have a camera on the boiler and on the controller to control whether I will not overheat. It is not Tester's fault in this case. It's good to know that, however, they improve something and you can reprogram it and not "go bastard". The downside is that you cannot upload the software yourself (even at your own risk). Chinese crap webcams are already in May. Some of the equipment even has TFTP if the software was to be loaded. Full of luxury and here you have to send everything ...

Well, there is some cable with a connector. This is cool news, I'll wait and see what comes out of it.
And this CR11011 is not functionally similar to pt 52?

CR11011 probably has even more options, but I read somewhere that it is clunky to use? And I don't know if it shows the outside temperature on the LCD. After all, people are interested in it ... and the Czech PT52 shows, but you have to wait a while because they also didn't do it permanently, only the bottom bar scrolls. Well, you won't please everyone.
I don't know any other advanced to have what they want, there are also some with color LCDs but 700 or more too, thank you. I prefer LCD and information readable even in the sun.

I see an interesting discussion on OT
Gold Plus 20 boiler installed on Thursday, fired at factory settings, no controller for now
From the moment of commissioning until today, it ran without clocking. Supply temperature set to 40 degrees. and remained at this level all the time
House 120 sq m, only heaters, in the house about 23 hours a day. It burned about 8 m3 a day
But to the point, I just finished assembling the outdoor sensor and the ST-2801 with wifi
The icon with curves flashes on the boiler. From what I read here, it should be like this?
I am asking because in the manual they wrote that if a controller with OT is connected, this icon should not be displayed
How the techa curve boiler works is hard to say, I use it too short for now, but I noticed a certain inconvenience
The boiler in the weather function does not turn off after reaching the preset room temperature
On the one hand, it's good, because there is nothing worse than cold radiators and it would be better for it to puff at low speed,
but on the other hand I wonder if it will not overheat the house, and I would not want that

And by the way, an additional question, maybe someone has a service code for this driver and would share it

As above, it blinks, it means that it sees the external sensor and the curves are controlled by the external controller.
Enter the service menu. Ie turn the boiler on with the button, after the icon (|) disappears, i.e. off - immediately press SET and RESET for at least 4 seconds, P1 will appear, change it with plus or minus until P26. Set enters the value of register P26 and reset will exit. Do not mix in other parameters, i.e. do not press set and then plus or minus
There is a RESET for a longer time (like soft off).
You probably have P26 = 1, the default is 1, and if you would go to 3, the curves will return to the boiler, stop flashing and set the curves on the boiler as before (the icon is still on, the thermostat still turns on and off, etc.). 2 means work without a room regulator.
See what version of the software you have, when switching on, write 1 / 2F and then b10 or maybe b12 - this is the software number.
The icon does not light as there is no thermistor on the fastened connector (weather sensor, i.e. element for 20 cents and housing )

For me, the curves do not turn off the boiler even if the temperature inside rises significantly above the setpoint and I do not know if it is not the fault of the Czech controller? Put something warm next to the tech to think that there is, for example, 29C in the room and maybe it will turn off after a while? All in all, it should be true, longer heating should not take place (as long as it holds and the temperature continues to rise, I do not know the algorithms of these controllers).

PS
Did the installer vent the boiler with the valve on the exchanger at the top of the metal casing? Did he study the exhaust gas analysis and additionally regulate something on the gas valve (just above the gas inlet pipe)?

After starting the boiler, I have b1 14, b2 14, 1F 01
I connected the boiler myself, the exchanger is vented, I have not done flue gas analysis yet, and the same gas regulation and I will not do it myself
I have not changed the P26 parameter so far, it is probably 1 by default
There are only three settings for this parameter in the manual, 0,1 and 2, there are no three
Setting it to 1 should be ok, because I want the curve to be managed by a driver that has such a curve
You say it's better if I switch to the curves from the boiler? Why

Exhaust gas analysis is a requirement by the manufacturer, were you authorized "from the list" for 1 start? There was a code for PLN 300 for installations in the box?

The manual is not very up-to-date, I would say .. see eg there is info about wifi, internet etc "apple itunes" as an app store. It's not iTunes but I don't have an app. I do not speak, leave it as it is. If the device has such options, leave it. This option to turn off the curves and transfer to the termet is for stupid OT steroniwko that do not support it and somehow the church "gives" it (I do not know who is to blame, rather the room controller). Salus RT520, for example, caused flashing and did not have any curves settings (even in the manual).
You also have a soft 14, someone wrote that he corrects something officially, whether in this thread or another, I do not know. It's weird, it should turn off. You have the latest soft.

How did he respond?

I put the hose on and poured over a dozen liters of water through the boiler system, allowing the system from time to time so that the pressure was within 1.5 bar. I watched the hose, when there were no air bubbles, I turned off the air vent. after each boiler start-up, I vented with a hose, but there was no more air
As for starting the boiler on my own, I am aware that I have deprived myself of the warranty, but somehow I will survive it
There was a coupon for PLN 300 in the papers, also if there is an authorized installer from my area (Puławy), I will give him this coupon for increasing the guarantee

Oh, it's about 1000 PLN in savings because that's what the authorized wanted, and I'm not satisfied until the end.
Does this valve, see photo, turn easily on you? Are you turning this "flower" to the left? I will not budge
And on the nameplate you have productions probably 2019 and the last 2 months? Because soft 14 is the latest.

The first time it was really hard to move the valve, I scratched behind my ear if I was actually shaking what I needed, but its appearance indicated that it must be it.

It was me who tried hard to the left (against the clock) and gave up, wrote to the website where he wrote it better not to twist because it will break and after the guarantee, ladies (oh, cool).
I will tell you that I am already giving up slowly when it comes to the driver. Eeasy Remote did not turn off something for me (Italian). I tested on P04 = every possible. The heating turned on even when it was 23 at home and I had 21. As I set more and later turned the setting, it also did not stop heating. DHW tank was also controlled temporarily, probably OK.
I also have information that a tester is working on a soft 15 for termeta in the company and it will be possible to choose the thermal comfort algorithm for the "Honeywell" or "Cron-Shreder" type (here I could remember badly and save nothing about it on google). According to the Lord of Tester, it is not a bug with them that the church does not turn off. The controller must send "heating" all the time, the termet heats up.

So PT52 (Czech) and this Rasa Remote do any eggs or soft b12 has any bugs? I do not know where to look for the cause of the problem like you, light surprise because my chalupe overheated quite a lot such something

And change this tech to control usually by room temperature only. It should turn off - at least this is what the Czech Pt52 does (but also has various bugs - the latest soft for this 10.07 if someone asked, you have to send to the Czech Republic).

This tech of yours is dear uncle, but write for others

It is fully powered from OT or an external power supply?
Only wifi is there still RJ lanes?
You can turn off the curves (it will stop flashing then probably for you on termet)?
Can you upload the update soft yourself?
Has the tank heating control?
Shows (without clicking) outdoor temp?
Shows (can be with menu entry)
System pressure?
Supply temp?
Return temp?
Burner modulation degree?

If it costs so much, I see the options that all the goodies (last questions) could be clicked so that the display would always be there somewhere without going to the menu. You can change the picture to your own background, etc.

PS
90m2 of flooring, about 21.5-22.5 at home and hot water from 30 to 45C heated (120l). It was 7.5 m3 per day. Not so bad with your radiators? I have flooring everywhere, so I should be more economical (I have only a non-insulated ceiling, and a large attic above it). I supply max 45 (practically up to 40C still comes out of the boiler) on the return from 30 to 37 (usually around 31). You also have more m2 and radiators and probably old installations. It's too much for me or you don't smoke enough

For the sake of accuracy, my main goal is that the boiler should work 24 hours a day without timing
I only have radiators and I know what it means when they get cold
They can be lukewarm to the touch and you feel thermal comfort.If they just turn cold you can feel it on your bones
When I started the boiler, I did not have any instrumentation in the form of external controllers and sensors
The boiler surprised me pleasantly because it worked 24 hours a day on factory settings without timing
For 24 hours it burned 7 m3 of gas, at night temperature -5 and at day temperature around 5 degrees
At home, both at night and during the day, it was around 23st
The flow temperature on the boiler is 40 degrees, because I could not set lower, the return temperature is about 32-33 degrees
This pleased me a lot, because the previous 17-year-old Junkers atmosphere consumed me in the same weather from 12-13m3 of gas, and in addition from 22-6 am there was a night tariff set at 20st
There was a dungeon after six in the morning
When buying a new boiler, I read a bit that people have a problem with timing, I have it without any problems, except for one, which I will mention later

And now in turn
Two days after the installation and firing up the boiler, I installed an external temperature sensor and a room controller with OpenTherm
It can be said that this is a dedicated controller for this boiler, because the logo on it is Termet, not Tech, which of course has been prepared by a dedicated OT controller for this boiler
On my ST-2801 with wifi everything works flawlessly except that in the weather room the boiler does not turn off the heating after reaching the set temperature on the controller. does not exceed, but it should not be so. Weather-based weather, but when the room temperature set on the controller is exceeded, the boiler should stop heating.
After connecting the external detector and the controller, a flashing icon of heating curves appeared on the display
Except it was blinking and it was not shining, which worried me
The controller worked, everything was ok except that the curve adjustment on the controller did not reflect that on the boiler
Put simply, if I did not modify the curve on the controller, it did not affect the operation of the boiler
Two hours ago I entered the service settings and changed P08 to 1, i.e. the floor heating.
It is true that it only has heaters, but at the current temperature of 40 degrees, the temperature set on the boiler overheated my house in the weather
Now, with the set supply temperature, I can go much lower, but how will this affect the heating of the house and gas consumption?
I also changed P26 to 3, it seems to me that this setting affects the curve settings in the controller more and the curve icon on the boiler is not flashing anymore, but at the moment I do not want to prejudge anything.
After these adjustments, the L3 message began to appear on the boiler display, but from what I noticed it has little to do with overheating of the heating medium, because from what I deduced at the moment, if the set temperature on the boiler is lower than the actual temperature, the boiler fails L3
I note that these are my observations after 3 hours of settings with such parameters and the reality may turn out to be different, but I will definitely inform you about it

And finally

Quote:

It is fully powered from OT or an external power supply?

The controller is powered by 230v

Quote:

Only wifi is there still RJ lanes?

There is no RJ

Quote:

You can turn off the curves (it will stop flashing then probably for you on termet)?

You can't, the stereo has its own curve that can be modified

Quote:

Can you upload the update soft yourself?

I don't know, but I have good associations with tech-drivers, they gave me some equipment for a coal boiler

Quote:

Has the tank heating control?

Yes, it has a weekly wage, you can set three ranges for each day

Quote:

Shows (without clicking) outdoor temp?

Yes, it shows on the main screen, in the same way as preset DHW and CH temperatures, actual DHW and CH temperatures, boiler operation mode, CH pump operation, temperature rooms

Quote:

System pressure?

No

Quote:

Supply temp?

Yes

Quote:

Return temp?
Burner modulation degree?

No
No

Quote:

If it costs so much, I see the options that all the goodies (last questions) could be clicked so that the display would always be there somewhere without going to the menu. You can change the picture to your own background, etc.

It costs a lot, I won't say, but I'm a talker and I like such "inventions"
Full boiler control (almost, because someone will get stuck) via wifi on the computer
full control (see above) from the phone from anywhere in the world
What's more, I think that the more than 9 stakas fired on this driver will pay off with interest
Someone wrote somewhere that it is such a small TV on the wall, the button is true, it is not so big, and secondly, if it annoys someone, it can always turn on the screen saver in the form of a clock, or the screen is completely blank

Okay, I will finish, because I wrote this post for an hour and I don't know what I wrote

edition
I played a little more and I know for sure that the curve from this controller works on setting P23 on 3
Setting the curve in such a way that the preset boiler temperature is lower than the actual temperature (as I wrote above) results in the loss of L3 on the boiler
It happens immediately after changing the curve, so it has little to do with overheating of the boiler, that's probably how the boiler controller is implemented
There will be time for further tests, stay tuned for the update

Thanks Well, it could show modulations because it is possible to read it and the return temperature. Maybe he adds, it's just some additional register or something.

L3 is not a bug, but the info, I had that L3 crashed often, even so that it worked 30 seconds, L3, Px pause (5 minutes) and again 30 seconds. And it was actually bad, very bad. I think I reduced P1 and P24, now L3 does not beat me. I wonder why the starting power is at 45% for 20 seconds (for me, mainly those 20 seconds was crucial). I don't know how to heat up the chimney and make a better cug to help the fan, or I don't know how to warm up the chamber nicely so that some gas muck wouldn't settle more willingly? Why is it so high why not 20% for 10 seconds is not the default?

From what I remember (not to treat it as an interpretation) it is so we fire up and pull P1 power through P24 time, then power P17 goes through P16 time. At the end, what the driver wants or according to the curves happens.

And I wonder how much this pump will pull if you want to work 24/7. In the sense of daily cash? Gas savings not bad, but the old one was not a condensation and did not modulate.

As I wrote, I have a floor and not quite that it feels great at home, at 23C I can walk like in summer (short sleeves and pants) and I keep 21.5 and it's ok. With the fact that the pump must work 100%, not here I save because the flow is already 3 / l minute (half on the rotameters) and if I go down with the pump power, I can turn on the L3 again (too little to cool the exchanger> temperature at the outlet to increase by 5C above the limit, and so around).

If the curve icon is not flashing and you have 3 options, I understand that you set the curves as it was, i.e. on the boiler. Press the radiator icon on the boiler and instead of the temperature you will see a real number with the possibility of changing plus and minus - with the fractional part, i.e. the curves returned to the boiler. This is how I understand it

But why pay a fortune for these drivers like k ... currently you have the usual primitive ON / OFF with temperature reading for free? I think you understand me well, don't you? It worries me that you have the latest soft, I am older and I have not noticed turning off on 2 controllers even after a large (5C) exceeding the set temperature

And I have already been writing a few hours, playing with a few different, pissing off and a man would like to connect it and have peace, forget. I do not know yet if such a driver can stay ahead of time. Let's say until 5 am I have to have around 19C at home but in the meantime a very cold front has come and the driver, knowing that at 4 am that he wants to have 22C at home in an hour, will give a sharper to the stove to overcome inertia, etc.
Anyway, curves are an untested subject for me. If i "examined by termet" and mentioned as recommended it gives some disturbing symptoms then ...

Oh, you wrote to the driver manufacturer, what do they say?

Quote:

If the curve icon is not flashing and you have 3 options, I understand that you set the curves as it was, i.e. on the boiler. Press the radiator icon on the boiler and instead of the temperature you will see a real number with the possibility of changing plus and minus - with the fractional part, i.e. the curves returned to the boiler. This is how I understand it

Yes, I switched to 3 and the curve from the controller works, on 1 it did not work, but it seems that it should
On the P26 03 setting on the boiler, when I want to change the temperature, I do not have the temperature, but the curve number.
So far, I have not combined with changing these curves on the boiler, because I bought the controller for a small amount of money and was focusing on it all the time

Quote:

But why pay a fortune for these drivers like k ... currently you have the usual primitive ON / OFF with temperature reading for free? I think you understand me well, don't you? It worries me that you have the latest soft, I am older and I have not noticed turning off on 2 controllers even after a large (5C) exceeding the set temperature

Unfortunately, I have to worry you, I just came to the conclusion that you need to set the curve on the controller properly, because it will either fire on the L3 boiler, or the boiler will not turn off after reaching the set temperature on the room controller
I just checked it out

I will write in bold for posterity
The Golden Plus boiler with soft b14 correctly cooperates with the EU-2801 WiFi controller
The controller performs all functions, including turning off the central heating circuit after reaching the set temperature on the room controller, which I had problems with.
So far I am satisfied

edition
Unfortunately, I have to correct the bold print, because the boiler has now turned on despite the exceeded set room temperature. I will keep you informed about the progress, I have automation only on the second day

Edit2 for editing, after tinkering with the curve on the controller, the boiler again turned off after reaching the set point on the curve, so it is definitely a matter of curve settings
Let's stop there for now

Hello.
lasekd @ is it really as you write, because according to the instructions, the heating curves on P26-1 should be from the OT controller, and parameter P26-3 for OT controllers that do not have their own curves and then the curves from the boiler work.
Check whether the heating water output temperature changes by changing the curve value in st 2801.
I am also interested in this driver, only I have v12 on the boiler and there is some error for proper cooperation with this control.
best regards
Edit
Exactly. Take back to P26-1 and once again calmly go through all the settings of st 2801 with the manual, because from what I was looking at there are several possibilities, only dry, I do not get it and you have to confront it with the rudder on a regular basis.

I give my head that for me on the b14 software version in the boiler and the dedicated 2801 controller with 1.0.2 soft, on the P26 01 setting, the curve settings on the techa controller did not work
After switching P26 to 03, the curve from the techa controller can control the operation of the boiler, including turning off the central heating operation after exceeding the set room temperature
If you live near Lublin, I invite you to a demonstration

edition
Someday, in my free time, I will return to P26 01 and test it, because when you write there are a lot of functions to be tested, and I haven't combined the curve like now, and in the weather it is of great importance, but for now I have other things on my mind (it's about a week's pay, somehow it is poorly described in the manual, but maybe I can handle it), the fact that the techa driver weather is working
I don't know if this driver is too expensive or what, but you can't really educate yourself on the net
At the moment I do not regret this money, although it is only the second day with him

Another screenshot


One minus for this driver
There is no icon on the main screen to set the night / economic temperature as if someone did not have a weekly wage programmed, or he goes somewhere longer and with one touch he could change it on the main screen
On the other hand, the operation of this driver is very simple, even for a preschooler, unlike the CR11011, where you must have a manual in your hand every time you approach the driver.

And there is also a graph (at the moment, any kind) in which the boiler works with the tech