Termet ECOCONDENS GOLD PLUS + ROUND with Wi-Fi - Open-Therm - connected incorrec

krzys-iek @
Did you manage to deal with this air in the DHW heating circuit?

And what is the point, colleagues, changing the curve and not turning off the boiler?
You have a perfect curve, and suddenly the sun is pounding through the windows, the house heats up and you are baking a cake and someone is washing. A lot of additional heat. In my opinion, the boiler should always turn off on any curve or not?

Maybe something else will be explained to us from the service documentation of termeta gold:



From this it follows that P26 = 1 or e 3 must be if the controller has no curves. Here, only point 6 as above is interesting.



And here I also have doubts in total!
0 ok sure
1 work with curves and controller OT or OT or on / off?
2 work with curves set on the boiler (radiator and Kt select) but the ON / OFF room regulator still to RT may be stuck, probably what !?

Option 3 here, we probably understand everyone, faulty drivers can deceive the church that they have a weather condition, so this one "gave up" to them and this option protects it. For example, Salus RT520 caused the icon to flash on the term, but he did not support any curves. Then we give it to 3.

PS
Easy Remote had the only options: no curves, curves by outside temperature, control of temperature by interior temperature and the last option: curves with outside temperature + outside temperature. So if he could balance and pace the room in parallel with what is happening outside. And so gold did not turn off.
And I heated the casing, for example, slightly blowing the dryer that it was around 28C according to the controller in the room, set 21 and this was still heating. Where's the point? Curves are an addition and in the middle of the house we have many sources of heat!

Air - I think it is much better, but I do not know why, I did not do anything except P0, i.e. auto venting. And the church was vented hundreds of times before, maybe something from the floor was gone and the last overheating of the house burned out the pipes

I already wrote in the previous post, for me the techa driver from P26 01 did not work in the weather
It works on P26 03
The sun, baking in the oven all day and burning a fire in the middle of the living room I'm not scared, because after reaching the set temperature in the room, the controller turns off the heating. So now I have what I'm glad of
I check out a week's wages for CO and CWU and that will be it

So again, with P26 = 3 you press the heater on the thermometer - what does it show?

PS
I attach the PDF from the Pxx to the b12 version, I think it ends on 31. If you want, I will ask for updates to b14. Apparently, soon b15 where the thermal comfort algorithms will be. Unfortunately there is no changelog

It shows the boiler curves, but without the possibility of deactivating these curves by the weather controller


It follows that the controller cannot turn off these curves on the boiler, but there is nothing about the fact that on this setting it cannot work with its own curve, for me it works with its own. I tested it by tinkering with the curve on the controller and the boiler responded, so it had to work curve from the controller
At P26 01, the curve icon on the boiler was blinking and it puzzled me, it certainly cannot be that while the boiler is working, an icon is flashing all the time, so I decided to try to make this setting and in my case it brought the expected result
Tomorrow at the same curve as working, I will now switch to P26 01 and see what happens, just to be sure

I will also have an additional question, but maybe for another discussion, as no one will answer here, because in the manual I have settings P up to 28, and in the boiler I have up to 32, which is 4 more, but I do not know what they refer to, so I do not touch

Well, this flashing icon says that the curves are taken from the OT driver.
It seems to me that as you have now, this st 2801 works like an ordinary on off, like Round with OT for me, which also does not have its own curves and uses those from the boiler.
You can also do such a test, set the room to high temperature and change the curves on the boiler and then see if the flow temperature has gone up, then return the curve on the boiler to the original level and do the same with the curve on the boiler.

No problem, I'll check it tomorrow to be sure
And if the controller uses the boiler curve, which curve, because there are several of them, is the one that is currently set?
Where do you get the information that the flashing LED means that the controller is using the curves in the boiler
For me it is not a normal phenomenon that a diode flashes all the time during boiler operation
When set to 01, this LED was blinking, but the controller did not perform the weather function contained in it, and it is a dedicated OT controller for this boiler with manufacturer's certification, even on the casing there is the word Termet and not Tech, although I think both are identical, but for the dedicated one you had to pay extra 5

They did not write in the manual to switch P26 to ...? This is a big mistake, as if these drivers must be installed by an authorized installer according to the instructions, I do not know why. I can already see that they have eaten all their minds and they stumble upon every problem on their own.

See priv lasekd.

I set P26 to 3, turned on the curves in my controller and started heating (or maybe the thermet started itself and the room only transmits this information) despite the setting to 21 in the room and I currently have 22 read. So it shouldn't heat.

Once again, the room controller should always be able to turn off the boiler when it is too hot!

Information from the Termet technical department. Only once again the curves built into the boiler are still lit, the curves from the room controller are blinking if it has them and they are correctly set (because in mine there are no curves and also a brush, and therefore they entered the parameter P26 - 3 in which the boiler curves are active despite the connection thermostat with OT)

In the manual, they wrote that after connecting the external temperature sensor. the curve icon appears (does not flash)
After connecting the OT driver, they wrote that there is no this icon, there is nothing flashing there, but if you write that the info from their tech department, I will not go too far
Only one thing amazes me
Why, with setting 03, the boiler reacts to a change in the curve on the controller, including switching off the heating after exceeding the preset room
How miraculously modifying the curve on the controller, it affects the curve from the boiler
And if the curve from the controller does not work on 03, why does the boiler react to it
Neither the curve worked for me on 01 nor the boiler turned off after exceeding the set room temperature
Well, I'm going to sleep, tomorrow after work I will return to 01 on this curve what works for me now and we'll see

It is also a suggestion that may help to solve this situation. Switch off in ST 2801 all other functions that affect the operation of the boiler (room thermostat, room influence and what else is there) and leave only the regulation by means of the heating curve.
With this configuration, do the test as I wrote earlier, first on P26 1 change the curves on the boiler (it should not be successful), then in st, then do the same on P26 3 and then everything should be explained. The boiler should react to raising the curve by increasing the CH temperature, and after decreasing it should enter the L3 blockade (of course, if the set value is set, it will be lower than the actual one in the circuit). You can change the P25 test time (L3 lock time) to 1 minute so as not to wait long for the restart.

I do not know what time I will be home to switch the boiler to 01, but so far I have played with the curve on the controller with the P26 03 parameter on the boiler
When modifying the curve, the boiler reacts to its settings, it also turns off the heating after exceeding the room set value.
I admit that at temperatures around 15 degrees outside, it's hard to modify the curve, because it does not have such a wide range at positive temperatures as those on the boiler

A little update
However, something is dumb with this curve
I go home, switch to heaters and P26 to 1 and then I will tire the curve

Well. I am waiting patiently for conclusions, because it interests me a lot. I also think about this driver, but everything has to work as it should, and I still need to update the software.
best regards

Well, I struggle with this controller, I changed P26 to 1 and the curve control on the controller affects the operation of the boiler,
but for now it is hard to say exactly how it works, because it would be best to go to the boiler room with a laptop and watch the progress, and now I do not have such a possibility. Additionally, if I adjust a higher temperature on the curve, and then want to try with the lower ones, the boiler does not want to turn on, because the temperature on the boiler is higher than the set temperature.
Next thing, I was modifying the curve on the laptop emodul, and here the graph is not very precise.
This can be set more precisely in the controller menu
Well, it takes some time, which I didn't have much for testing today, but I think it can be set up in some reasonable way.
So we are waiting for a cooling down

It's cool, it's not on fire ę but I'm glad there is progress and willingness to work it out.

krzys-iek wrote:

As I wrote, I have a floor and not quite that it feels great at home, at 23C I can walk like in summer (short sleeves and pants) and I keep 21.5 and it's ok. With the fact that the pump must work 100%, not here I save because the flow is already 3 / l minute (half on the rotameters) and if I go down with the pump power, I can turn on the L3 again (too little to cool the exchanger> temperature at the outlet to increase by 5C above the limit, and so around).

And what is your temperature on the return from the floor heating? Because maybe the delte (P13) could be increased so that the pump would slow down. These 3 l / min is not a small flow, I have a max of 2.5 l and the difference is about 3-4 *
Edit.
lasekd @
Did you get this separate wi-fi room thermostat with the st 2801?

What thermostat do you mean I got the driver itself
They add a wifi room sensor more than once, but I didn't have one https://sterownikitech.pl/czujnik-pokojowy-bezpwiowy-c-mini,id591.html
And by the way, the sensor in this controller is a mockery, you have to calibrate it all the time
I have an old Auraton on the side, and this one keeps the temperature too much
In tech, in a few minutes the display changes even by 1-2 degrees, a massacre
Perhaps it is still setting up somewhere, but I doubt it
I took a third thermometer next to it and it shows what the auraton is
I don't have time to deal with it right now, but I need to look at it sometime

This is exactly what it is about. This is what the instruction st 2801 wi fi says that it is equipped with this thermostat.
Regarding the temperature sensor, maybe it is so sensitive and hence these temperature fluctuations. You would have to compare it with some kind of thermometer but not built into any device because they may have some algorithm for averaging it.

Let me join the discussion because I am also struggling with the Termet gold kit and the st 2801 driver. At the beginning, the driver did not work with the boiler, but as part of the warranty I got the b14 version and now it works fully. You can upload new software in the controller yourself - I did so, thanks to which it was possible to set the weekly wage via WiFi and, interestingly, sometimes on the monitor I see burner modulations in percent, but I do not know why not all the time.
It's warm for now and I'm struggling with the timing of the stove. I am testing P08 -1, P 16 -5, P17-0, P25-10 and we'll see if it helps. I'm still going down the P14 because when the house heats up, the thermostatic valves on the radiators shoot.
I do not know it well
It is a pity that I do not have a current service for b14?

You did a software update in the boiler controller or st 2801. If the latter, then on the techa website there is no software for this controller, at least officially, you wrote to them?
I have b14 in the boiler and 1.0.2 in tech, but it does not show boiler modulation
You say that your house is overheating on P8 01?
For me, on P8 01 and the rest of the factory settings, the boiler was burning without clocking with the set temperature of 30 degrees and it was not too hot, but I have only heaters
Now it is too warm and I gave up the weather. I switched the boiler to radiators and the techa to a room sensor. The boiler works at a minimum for radiators, i.e. 40 degrees, heats up a bit, stands a bit. 5-6 m3 / 24h. My house is not well insulated, so for me it's a decent consumption.
I am waiting for better times, i.e. frosts, with the weather and the real consumption of gas

If you did the software update in tech, maybe you would share the knowledge and the firmware file, because now the long weekend and techu are free, and I would be happy to test
If I am in the boiler, I am also open to knowledge, although I have b14, there is probably no newer yet
There must be a catch somewhere if it shows modulation for you
Oh, one more thing, I can't set a weekly wage in the emodule, so it's probably a matter of software in tech

In the oven, I changed the board to have b14, but fortunately under warranty. In the room controller I wrote and got the update file - ver. 1.1.1. In the attachment I am sending - You need to upload to the flash drive and connect to the controller for min. USB Turn off and on and load itself. It shows modulation very rarely - I don't know why - you have to ask in Tech.
However, I would like the service to be up to date with b14 if someone had it because it uses the old one from 2016

Everything is nice, but I don't have a USB socket, is it hidden somewhere?
You have 2801 on peno?

edition
I already know, you have no wifi, and I have wifi which does not have a usb socket, it probably updates somehow differently, maybe via the network and service menu for which you need a code
Well, I will probably have to write to them

I also have WiFi. The nest is on the side, you have to find. The service code is easy to guess because it is: 1111 ? - there is almost nothing there.

No, I'm not blind
It is true that I was looking for a torch yesterday night, because I did not want to wake up my family, but there was no bank. I have this controller dedicated to this boiler with the inscription termet on the front. They only come in black.
And what is the inscription on the front? When I get home I will be looking, but there is probably nothing like that. There are two versions of these drivers, with the word tech or something on the front and with the word termet

Well, I bought a poorer version without the inscription ? but much cheaper?
You definitely have USB - you need to remove the driver from the latch and on the back wall on the side. Attached picture . But don't get too excited because modulation rarely shows ? - you have to ring a little.

Bingo, you deserve a big beer, collect PM because I sent you yesterday
I know that without the inscription it is cheaper, but I think a dedicated one will work better with my boiler,
but it's probably just my wishful thinking
I will eat lunch soon because I have just arrived and I am starting to upload the software

edition
Phew done, it got a little together because I did not have a micro usb pendrak or adapter, I had to make a cable
Soft uploaded. Not much different from my older one, only the weekly payment has been provided from the emodul level
I haven't noticed any modulation yet
And where did you notice it, because there is not even such a tile there
Send your e-mail to PW

Tell me, buddy, how is your case with the room temperature sensor in your controller
I am crazy. Once it is 23.4st, so that in 10 minutes it would be 22.8 or 23.8 there is no rule
At this point, neither the boiler is working nor has it been aired
I calibrate him near Wojtek, and he continues to keep pranks on me
As I complained to the old Auraton that it was not very sensitive to temperature changes, because when it was noticeably colder or warmer, it continued to show the same temperature, this one for no reason was fanning with indications that it was unfit
Everything is ok on the outside

As for the internal temperature sensor, it is also very unstable for me, but I have the impression that it works when I do not look at it, I just turn on the display, it heats up and the temperature rises significantly even by 2 degrees. Then it drops. As he observes the smartphone's indications, it is stable.
As for showing the modulation, it is observed very rarely, but still such a possibility is not developed. I wanted to capture this moment but it doesn't show up yet. But for a moment the icon with "--%" appeared and I took a picture so you know where to watch.
In general, with such high outside temperatures, it's hard for me to set up a nice stove.

You are probably quite right with this temperature check on the controller, I also thought that when I approached it, I puff, I blow, maybe the display also heats the sensor, although I don't think I know it, but there is some truth in it
Today I was away from home all day so I didn't fumble with the controller and it looked much better according to the charts
I am considering buying a radio sensor, the more so because after updating the software in the controller, such an option appeared
I will not get too short of these 7-8 nozzles, and tests with a sensor in various locations are priceless
I also noticed on the occasion of the photo you uploaded modulation that you have a temperature on the boiler 71st, at the set 35, seriously? how is this possible
For me, at the current temperatures, it never exceeds 42 degrees. I know that it depends on the settings, but I think you're going the wrong way

This is the temporary temperature after heating the water in the tank. In general, it's OK as I set (now 40), I only keep extending the L3 break time - I already have 30 minutes. because it keeps overheating.
And as for the radio for the driver, I don't know the topic very well - maybe you can write something more ?

So I thought it was a residue of DHW heating, it's the same for me
Therefore, I have a question
Once, while studying various types of ecocondens boilers, I came across such a parameter as pump overrun time
In my Gold, I don't see it, or I'm blind.
This time could be extended to prevent hot water from remaining in the boiler
In the case of the CH circuit, I have the same, but not as much as in the case of DHW
Is it possible to extend this time somewhere in our boilers?

As for the sensor: https://sterownikitech.pl/czujnik-pokojowy-bezpwiedzowy-c-mini,id591.html