FAQ
TL;DR: For roller shutters, 5‑wire is the flexible choice—"It is always better to use a 5‑wire cable." Plan home runs to a central switchboard and allow future smart control without rewiring. [Elektroda, rtvserwisant, post #17431082]
Why it matters: This helps homebuilders planning up to six external roller blinds choose cable counts, topology, and drivers confidently.
Quick Facts
- Run 4x1.5 mm² from switchboard to each wall switch and 5x1.5 mm² from switchboard to each shutter; de‑energize the switch when the module drives. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17441148]
- Central switchboard wiring keeps options open for PLC or time‑clock group control later (e.g., Fatek, Logo!). [Elektroda, Marek J., #17436009]
- Reserve extra switchboard space for modules/controllers per shutter, sized to your final count. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17435970]
- Add interlocking so UP and DOWN cannot be energized simultaneously at the motor. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17440985]
- Wi‑Fi control is fine, but keep local buttons for resilience and serviceability. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17441148]
What’s the best cable for external roller shutters: 4x1.5 or 5x1.5?
Choose 5x1.5 mm² to each shutter for flexibility and interlocks. "It is always better to use a 5‑wire cable." This decision reduces rewiring if you later add smart control. [Elektroda, rtvserwisant, post #17431082]
How should I cable if I haven’t chosen a control system yet?
Run 4x1.5 from each motor to the switchboard and 4x1.5 from each Up/Down switch to the switchboard. Leave space for drivers and control modules. "Everything can be done with this roller shutter arrangement." [Elektroda, Marek J., #17435970]
Should wall switch cables go to the switchboard or directly to the shutter?
Route wall switch cables to the switchboard. This matches centralized driver setups and keeps your options open. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17440985]
How do I wire Wi‑Fi control with manual fallback?
Use parallel wiring that isolates the switch during module operation. Home‑run 4x1.5 to the wall switch and 5x1.5 to the shutter. How‑To: 1. Home‑run both cables to the switchboard. 2. Connect the module outputs to the motor’s UP and DOWN leads. 3. Use the module or relays to de‑energize the switch when driving. If wireless fails, the switch still works. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17441148]
How do I prevent powering UP and DOWN at the same time?
Add electrical interlocking between the two directions. Dedicated shutter modules or properly wired relays will block simultaneous feeds. This prevents simultaneous voltage on both motor directions. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17440985]
Can I centralize all drivers in the switchboard?
Yes. Centralizing drivers supports PLCs or time clocks for group control later. Examples include Fatek and Siemens Logo! [Elektroda, Marek J., #17436009]
Can I instead use local modules next to each shutter?
Yes. You can power all blinds from one three‑core feed to boxes near each shutter. Place the drivers locally and run short cables to the buttons. [Elektroda, suworow, post #17435994]
Which smart‑home drivers were considered in this thread?
Blebox ShutterBox v2.0 and Zamel were mentioned as options for Wi‑Fi or smart control. [Elektroda, grippen123, post #17433096]
Is 4‑core cable enough for basic UP/DOWN motors?
Yes. With ordinary up/down motors, 4x1.5 mm² from each motor to the switchboard works. It supports straightforward central control. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17435970]
Do I need PE and Neutral at the motor point?
Yes. Plan G/D/N/PE to each shutter, with a fixed L for remote control where applicable. This supports versatile control options. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17433417]
Should I also run a twisted pair (Cat/UTP) for future integration?
Consider adding a twisted‑pair run for future sensors or bus control. It offers extra room for maneuver during upgrades. [Elektroda, grippen123, post #17437005]
Where should I connect the central “All Up/Down” switch?
Wire the central switch to the switchboard. This aligns with centralized control and simplifies later changes. [Elektroda, Marek J., #17440985]
Is more than five cores ever worth it?
Extra conductors add options for future logic or sensors. As one expert noted, "Or better six, and that's not my last word." Use them if budget allows. [Elektroda, suworow, post #17431769]
Do Wi‑Fi modules fail safe—will I lose control if they die?
Design for resilience. "If the wireless control is damaged, the blinds will operate via the switch anyway." This requires the fallback wiring described above. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17441148]