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Somfy J4 WT Façade Blind Drive Causes TV Receiver Interference on Shared 230V Circuit

MarekKubica 3822 13
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  • #1 17512496
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    Hello

    I have external roller shutters and facade blinds - all items have Somfy drives and are controlled at the moment with blind switches. There is a 4 wire cable from each drive to the switch box to the same box for 230V power from the socket circuit. I don't have the slightest problem with the external roller shutter drives everything works fine ( some of these drives are integrated into Domoticz using Blebox Shutterbox also works without a problem ) however I do have problems with the facade blind drives which interfere with the TV receiver.
    The drives for the façade blinds themselves function correctly controlling the blind with a Hager B.square blind switch , Somfy J4 WT drives , when releasing the up or down control button the TV is switched off briefly. The power supply for the sockets as well as for the façade blinds in this room is drawn on one circuit and connected from one fuse in the distribution board. The blinds are controlled purely electrically using blind switches - no philosophy. The Somfy technical support debacle started with explaining why the power circuits in the house are not shielded. The blinds fitters think I should have Somfy Inis Uno VB control switches (from the connection diagram I can't see that it matters maybe some electronics inside ? I don't know, it's hard to find anything on the web).

    Thank you in advance for any information that will guide me to the source of the problems or errors in the installation .
    Best regards
    M.K.
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  • #2 17512514
    xury
    Automation specialist  
    Posts: 7071
    Help: 876
    Rate: 1486
    MarekKubica wrote:
    I have problems with façade blind drives which are interfering with the TV receiver.
    .
    More specifically, what are they interfering with? Terrestrial TV reception or anything else? Maybe you have a poor broadband antenna amplifier?
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  • #3 17512535
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    xury wrote:
    MarekKubica wrote:
    while I have problems with façade blind drives that interfere with the TV receiver.
    .
    More specifically, what are they interfering with? Terrestrial TV reception or anything else? Maybe you have a poor broadband antenna amplifier?
    .

    I don't have terrestrial TV , kids watched VOD via BR player.
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  • #4 17512664
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
    Help: 444
    Rate: 600
    Welcome,

    MarekKubica wrote:
    when releasing the up or down control key there is a brief shutdown of the TV.


    What kind of TV is it? I had, or actually still have, the same problem at a friend's house where I hung a TV on the wall a few years ago. I ran the wires in the wall in one trough (power, HDMI, USB, etc. ) Since then, if the lights are switched on, there is a momentary disappearance (about 1 s) of the image on the TV. The screen goes black for a while and then everything returns to normal. Friends are not bothered by this so I have not looked for a solution. The TV is an older model LG plasma.

    Greetings.
  • #5 17512680
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4356
    Help: 283
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    Try powering the t.v. from an extension cable from another room.
  • #6 17512685
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    bhtom wrote:
    Hello,

    MarekKubica wrote:
    when releasing the up or down control key, the TV shuts off briefly.


    What kind of TV is this? I had, or actually still have, the same problem at a friend's house where I hung a TV on the wall a few years ago. I ran the wires in the wall in one trough (power, HDMI, USB, etc. ) Since then, if the lights are turned on, there is a momentary disappearance (about 1 s) of the image on the TV. The screen goes black for a while and then everything returns to normal. Friends are not bothered by this so I have not looked for a solution. The TV is an older model LG plasma.

    Greetings.
    .

    I have a similar situation with the cables (power and HDMI) ie they are run in a trough together in the wall , the TV is an old model Sony Bravia .
    The blinking itself does not bother me terribly much, I control the blinds rather only occasionally. I am rather worried whether interference from the drive could finish off some equipment , I would rather understand the nature of this phenomenon or find out where I went wrong with the electrical installation .

    Regards
    M.K.

    Added after 2 [minutes]: .

    Zbigniew 400 wrote:
    Try powering the t.v. from an extension lead from another room.
    .

    I will do some tests today. I'll check if the interference only affects the TV or if, for example, you'll see some flickering on the lamp next to the TV.
    I will separate the HDMI cable from the power supply , and then try to power the TV from another circuit.

    Regards
    M.K.
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  • #7 17516735
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    I have made several tests and still have no idea what could be the cause of the problems described.
    The first test was to separate the HDMI cables from the 230V power cables and this did nothing, the picture still goes out for a while after releasing the blind switch. In addition, I connected a bedside lamp to the same socket as the TV and did not notice the slightest flickering or dimming of the light on the bedside lamp . Finally using an extension cord I connected the TV to another circuit and only then did the interference disappear.
    I am able to switch the power supply of the facade blind to the garden light supply circuit but will this cause interference to other appliances ? What is the cause of the TV going out , could any other appliances be affected ?
  • #8 17516741
    sosarek

    Level 43  
    Posts: 83875
    Help: 9318
    Rate: 15430
    This ranges from poor connections in the boxes to too much instantaneous consumption in a given circuit.
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #9 17516750
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4356
    Help: 283
    Rate: 791
    Fit a power filter at the roller shutter.
  • #10 17516773
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    sosarek wrote:
    From poor connections in the cans to too much instantaneous draw in a given circuit.


    Hello
    I have 4 different sockets connected to the power supply circuit of these sockets , all plugged in via WAGO distributed with 3G2.5 cable , as for the momentary consumption I am just wondering why there is no interference at the start of the motor (starting currents ), interference in the operation of the TV appears only when the blind switch is released. In addition, I have not noticed any dimming or blinking of the lamp when it is connected to the same circuit. Somfy J4 WT 10Nm drive powered by 230V current 1A which is not too much .

    Regards
    M.K.
  • #11 17516782
    sosarek

    Level 43  
    Posts: 83875
    Help: 9318
    Rate: 15430
    Check the key itself in that case - swap it with another one to try it out.
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #12 17516785
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    Zbigniew 400 wrote:
    Install the power filter at the roller shutter.


    Hello
    Could you recommend something compact ? What would be able to fit in a roller shutter and be IP65 at least?

    Best regards
    M.K.
  • #13 17527502
    ditomek
    Level 22  
    Posts: 590
    Help: 24
    Rate: 230
    resistor and capacitor in series clipped onto the contacts of the roller shutter switch.
    I can't remember the component values, you'll find them on the internet as this is a common way of dealing with this problem.
  • #14 17529635
    MarekKubica
    Level 6  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 2
    Additional information received from Somfy - these motors have built-in electronics and filters in the housing and they informed me that I should rather look for errors in the electrical installation. Now I have some time off and I will try to check this part of the installation, check how the roller shutters will behave when controlled with Blebox - shutterbox, install ferrite filters. After the weekend I will try to upload new information.
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Topic summary

✨ A user experiences brief TV receiver interference when releasing the control button of Somfy J4 WT façade blind drives powered on the same 230V circuit as the TV. External roller shutter drives on the same circuit do not cause interference. The TV is an older Sony Bravia model with power and HDMI cables routed together in a wall trough. Tests showed that separating HDMI and power cables did not resolve the issue, nor did connecting a lamp to the same socket reveal voltage dips. However, powering the TV from a different circuit eliminated the interference. The interference occurs only upon releasing the blind switch, not at motor start, despite the Somfy J4 WT drive’s low current (1A). Somfy confirmed built-in electronics and filters in the motors and suggested checking the electrical installation for faults. Recommendations include testing the blind switch for faults, installing ferrite or RC snubber filters (resistor and capacitor in series) at the switch contacts, and possibly fitting a power filter at the roller shutter. The user plans further tests with Blebox Shutterbox integration and ferrite filters to isolate the cause.
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FAQ

TL;DR: When Somfy J4 WT façade blinds share a 230 V circuit, releasing the switch can cause about 1 s TV blackouts; "The screen goes black for a while." Fix by isolating power, filtering, or adding a snubber. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #17512664]

Why it matters: It prevents HDMI dropouts and equipment stress for homeowners and installers sharing TV and blind motors on one circuit.

Quick Facts

Why does my TV lose signal when I release the Somfy blind switch?

Opening the switch can produce a release transient on the shared 230 V line. That brief disturbance can upset sensitive TV power or HDMI links. Users address this by damping the release with an RC snubber across the switch contacts. “Resistor and capacitor in series” is the suggested remedy. This targets the exact moment you release the up/down button. It reduces the spike that coincides with the TV blackout. [Elektroda, ditomek, post #17527502]

How can I quickly test if the shared circuit is the culprit?

Do a fast isolation test.
  1. Plug the TV into an outlet on a different circuit using an extension.
  2. Operate the blind and release the switch as usual.
  3. If the blackout disappears, the shared circuit is coupling the disturbance. This exact test removed the symptom in the thread. It strongly points to conducted interference on the original circuit. If confirmed, plan separation or filtering. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17516735]

Why does it happen on release, not when the motor starts?

In this case, the disturbance appears only when the button is released. Startup produces no visible effect on the TV. That timing indicates the issue is linked to the switch opening event. The motor is about 1 A at 230 V, so steady load is modest. Focus mitigation on the release transient, not the inrush at start. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17516773]

Do HDMI and mains run in the same trough cause dropouts?

They can correlate with dropouts. One installer saw all cables routed together in a wall trough. Switching room lights caused about a 1 s image loss on an older LG plasma. The screen went black briefly and then recovered. That shows proximity coupling can aggravate visible glitches. Separating signal and power paths is advisable during planning. [Elektroda, bhtom, post #17512664]

I separated HDMI and power but the TV still blanks—what next?

If separation does not help, isolate the supply. Power the TV from a different circuit and retest. In the thread, this eliminated the issue immediately. That confirms the blackout rides the original branch, not the HDMI path. Next steps include circuit separation or adding suppression at the blind side. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17516735]

Could poor wiring or high inrush on the circuit cause this?

Yes. “This ranges from poor connections in the boxes to too much instantaneous consumption in a given circuit.” Loose terminations can amplify transients. High instantaneous load can deepen dips that some TVs dislike. Inspect terminations in junction boxes and the distribution connection. Fix any weak points before adding filters. [Elektroda, sosarek, post #17516741]

What simple fix can I try at the wall switch?

Add a snubber across the contacts. “Resistor and capacitor in series clipped onto the contacts of the roller shutter switch.” This RC network damps the release spike that coincides with the TV blackout. It is a common field remedy for switch-off transients. Use a mains-rated snubber module or RC pair. [Elektroda, ditomek, post #17527502]

Where should I place a power filter for best effect?

Place it at the blind side. “Fit a power filter at the roller shutter.” That location stops conducted noise from re-entering the branch. Use an enclosure suitable for the environment if installed near the window. Keep leads short for best attenuation. [Elektroda, Zbigniew 400, post #17516750]

Could this blackout damage my TV or other devices?

The reported symptom was a brief image loss, with no lamp flicker on the same outlet. Powering the TV from a different circuit removed the blackout. That suggests a short disturbance rather than sustained undervoltage. To reduce risk, keep the TV on a separate branch or add suppression at the blinds. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17516735]

How do I check whether the wall switch itself is at fault?

Swap the control key/switch with another unit to A/B test. “Check the key itself in that case—swap it with another one to try it out.” If the symptom follows the switch, replace it. If not, move on to filtering and wiring checks. [Elektroda, sosarek, post #17516782]

Does this only affect antenna TV reception?

No. The blackout also appeared while watching VOD over HDMI from a Blu‑ray player. There was no terrestrial TV in use. That indicates the issue is on the power side, not RF antenna paths. HDMI handshake can drop when the TV’s supply hiccups. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17512535]

My circuit has multiple sockets—does that matter?

It can. The reported circuit had four different sockets on the branch via WAGO connectors and 3G2.5 cable. The Somfy J4 WT motor is about 1 A at 230 V. Despite modest current, the blackout still occurred on release. Circuit layout and contact release behavior mattered more than steady load. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17516773]

Will switching to an electronic controller like Blebox Shutterbox help?

It may change switching behavior, so testing makes sense. Roller shutters controlled by Blebox Shutterbox worked fine in the same home. The plan was to try façade blinds with Shutterbox and compare. If the symptom disappears, keep that control path or add filtering. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17512496]

What did Somfy support say about built‑in filtering?

Somfy stated these motors include internal electronics and filters. They advised checking the electrical installation for faults first. The next planned steps were Shutterbox control and ferrite filters for experimentation. Document results after each change for clarity. [Elektroda, MarekKubica, post #17529635]
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