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How do I protect the Sonoff Touch T1 from simultaneous up/down signals for the screen motor?

ciubas 1332 16
Best answers

How can I add a hardware interlock so a Sonoff Touch T1 cannot energize both the up and down motor outputs at the same time?

Use a hardware interlock: either reflash the Sonoff with Tasmota and configure it so both relays cannot turn on together, or add an external circuit that blocks one direction whenever the other is active [#17747554][#17747539] One concrete suggestion is a relay with a 230 V coil and an NC contact inserted between the Sonoff and the motor [#17754405] In that scheme, the up direction goes through the NC contact, and the down direction also powers the relay coil so the contact opens and prevents simultaneous drive [#17754405] Another reply notes that a dedicated electronic circuit can be used to prevent one relay from driving while the other is on, and vice versa [#17747554]
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  • #1 17747356
    ciubas
    Level 22  
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    I want to use this to control a screen motor for a projector (same as blinds). I need to PHYSICALLY secure it so that my up/down signal doesn't go at once. How do I do this?

    I was thinking theoretically that it could work so that if the voltage goes 2x it just doesn't let go/burns up/disconnects something that will be behind the sonoff buttons and in front of the motor in the screen. Do you have any other better/cheaper ideas?

    How do I protect the Sonoff Touch T1 from simultaneous up/down signals for the screen motor? .
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  • #2 17747412
    kkas12
    Level 43  
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    Isn't it better to use something designed for this purpose instead of combining with erzacs?
  • #3 17747418
    ciubas
    Level 22  
    Posts: 683
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    But I want to poke around, I know why not - because it's for the light and not for the blinds, for the blinds he has one without buttons for 4 blinds, but unfortunately he doesn't have one for two and I'm not going to overpay :( What's the problem with making such a simple safety device?
  • #4 17747427
    kkas12
    Level 43  
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    ciubas wrote:
    What's the problem with making such a simple safety feature?
    If there isn't then why do you ask?
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  • #5 17747430
    ciubas
    Level 22  
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    I'm asking because I don't know, if I did I wouldn't be asking - hence the post here. Why do you ask questions that don't make sense instead of suggesting where to look for a solution?
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  • #6 17747436
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17366
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    You have the answer in my first post.
    But if you want it combine :) .
  • #7 17747446
    ciubas
    Level 22  
    Posts: 683
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    Rate: 11
    No, there is no answer to my question, there is only your constant exaggeration, as always on the forum - no willingness to help, to think together only smarting - bravo for this forum ;)
  • #8 17747460
    kkas12
    Level 43  
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    Sorry mate, but there can't be anything "all the time" in the first post.
    A claimant attitude nothing more.
    Give me what I want or I'll be offended.
    I will not think for myself. That's what the electrode is for.
    I bought something that doesn't fit very well and now you have to help me.

    Or maybe it was worth asking first and then buying?
    Maybe it is worth checking/learning how the screen works, how the limit switches are connected?
    Not you I don't care.
    Just the claims.

    One thing I do know is that a smart home is always only as smart as its "creator".
  • #9 17747473
    ciubas
    Level 22  
    Posts: 683
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    And an intelligent answer is like its author.

    I don't know anything about electronics and I don't know what such a thing is called that could help me, you I see have the pleasure of gaining posts for yourself with posts about nothing so let's keep having fun.

    In my first post I included everything I need from giving me information - I just need a physical safety device and why I only ask this because:
    - the motor locks itself at maximum and minimum position
    - currently there is a louvre button down/zero/top (with status lock) in use and there can be voltage all the time and the motor is just on the edge and the screen doesn't spin.
    - I made the purchase with full forethought just to play around and learn something new
    - the screen works just as the service department wrote to me - that if I give up/down at the same time it can burn out the motor

    It's you who doesn't care about my problem just imposing your way of thinking on me, take a ready-made, take a ready-made, don't think, be like me - that's how you live better and then pour out your frustrations on others, it's so cool, see instead of helping you in any way I'll show you.... and so you read this and read this and read this and despite the lack of answers, I start to get pleasure from wasting your time, bigger and bigger and bigger....
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  • #10 17747522
    kkas12
    Level 43  
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    ciubas wrote:
    the screen works as the service wrote me off - that if I give the up/down at once it can burn up the engine
    So you need to stick with it. You have made the wrong purchase because you have no idea about it.
    You should have drawn up a circuit for yourself first and only on this basis should you choose a screen control device.
    So please don't air your grievances just because I have a different point of view.
    Now imagine that you have a relay with a 230V coil that has two pairs of NO-NC contacts.

    Take a piece of paper, a pencil and at least try to solve the problem you created yourself.
    I guarantee you more pleasure if you can manage it than from the dubious satisfaction you now supposedly feel from supposedly wasting my time.
  • #11 17747535
    ciubas
    Level 22  
    Posts: 683
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    I know I can make a state change relay - A turns on the power and B changes the up/down state and I can control that too, and I thought about that too, but it still doesn't answer my question, because I don't want to do it like that - I just need to find out if there is or what is the name of such a protection, what to make it out of, and just or as much as that.

    I have no regrets, I bought it at such a price that I will sell it for 2x the price or fit it somewhere else, so why the regret? ;)
  • #12 17747539
    mpier
    Level 29  
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    Hello, kkas12 advises you well. To meaningfully combine some basics you need to have. I don't know, so I would read the manual first, maybe there is a possibility to set the switch as you need. If not, I would reprogram it so that it is possible. First off - tasmot. Plus a relay as above.
  • #13 17747546
    kkas12
    Level 43  
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    And now, after a few posts bordering on good manners, you write what you don't want and what you do want, even though you shouted the opposite in your first post?

    ciubas wrote:
    A turns on the power and B changes the up/down state
    Get out of the drawer and look for other solutions.
  • #14 17747554
    Loker
    Level 39  
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    Two possibilities:
    - as a colleague already mentioned you reprogram Sonoff with Tasmota or other open-source software and configure/modify the program accordingly so that it is not possible to switch on both relays simultaneously
    - you connect in the relay control signals and install an electronic circuit, which will prevent the driving of one relay when the other one is on and vice versa.
  • #15 17747561
    ciubas
    Level 22  
    Posts: 683
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    Loker wrote:
    - you tap into the relay control signals and install an electronic circuit that will prevent one relay from driving when the other is on and vice versa.
    .

    I write about this all the time, it's exactly what I want to do but I don't know what it's even called to read about it.
  • #16 17754091
    Loker
    Level 39  
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    The first thing I can think of is H-bridge half-bridge drivers with protection against simultaneous conduction of MOSFETs - but that's a bit of form over substance.
  • #17 17754405
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist
    Posts: 1896
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    ciubas wrote:
    is there or what is the name of such a safety device, what to make it out of and just or as much.
    .

    Relay with 230V coil and NC contact between Sonoff and motor. Say an upward movement you plug in via the NC contact of the relay and a downward movement in addition to powering the motor feeds the coil of the relay.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on physically protecting a Sonoff Touch T1 switch used to control a projector screen motor from simultaneous up/down signals that could damage the motor. The user seeks a simple, physical safety device or circuit to prevent both directions from activating at once, as the motor locks at its limits and simultaneous commands risk burning it out. Suggestions include using relays with 230V coils and normally closed (NC) contacts to interlock control signals, implementing an H-bridge or half-bridge driver with built-in protection against simultaneous MOSFET conduction, or reprogramming the Sonoff device with open-source firmware like Tasmota to prevent concurrent relay activation. The user is unfamiliar with electronics terminology and requests the name and design of such protective circuits. The consensus is that a hardware interlock circuit or software modification can prevent simultaneous up/down commands, with relay-based interlocks and firmware customization being practical solutions.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Prevent simultaneous UP/DOWN on a Sonoff T1 controlling a screen/blind motor by electrical interlocking: 1 relay, 2 NO/NC contacts, 230 V coil. "…a relay with a 230V coil that has two pairs of NO-NC contacts." [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17747522]

Why it matters: DIYers using Sonoff Touch T1 for screen/blind motors can avoid simultaneous commands that destroy the motor.

Quick-Facts

Quick Facts

Can I use a Sonoff Touch T1 to control a projector screen motor safely?

Yes, but not out of the box. You must stop both directions from energizing together. Do this in firmware or hardware. One user suggested two options: reflash to Tasmota or add an electronic interlock. Either approach blocks simultaneous relay drive on the T1. [Elektroda, Loker, post #17747554]

What is the simplest hardware to prevent simultaneous UP/DOWN?

Use one relay with a 230 V coil and two changeover contacts (DPDT). Wire its NO/NC pairs to enforce mutual exclusion. This prevents UP and DOWN from being live at the same time. "Two pairs of NO-NC contacts" are sufficient here. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17747522]

How do I wire the NC-contact interlock?

Follow this simple NC-contact interlock:
  1. Route the UP feed through the relay’s NC contact.
  2. Wire the DOWN output to the motor and to the relay’s 230 V coil.
  3. When DOWN is active, the coil opens NC, blocking UP; release restores UP. This blocks opposite feeds reliably. [Elektroda, kood, post #17754405]

Can firmware alone prevent this? How to set it up?

Yes. Reflash Sonoff to Tasmota and enable interlock so only one relay can be on. "Reprogram Sonoff with Tasmota … so that it is not possible to switch on both relays simultaneously." Hardware interlocking remains a good backup for safety. [Elektroda, Loker, post #17747554]

What is this protection called?

It’s an electrical interlock. You implement it using two changeover contacts (2PDT) driven by a 230 V coil. The contacts prevent opposite feeds from being live together. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17747522]

Do the motor’s built-in limit switches protect against simultaneous feeds?

No. The limits stop travel at top and bottom, but do not block opposite supplies. The service warned that powering UP and DOWN together can burn the motor. Treat limits as position stops, not safety interlocks. [Elektroda, ciubas, post #17747473]

Is an H‑bridge a good idea for 230 V AC screens?

No. Half‑bridge or H‑bridge drivers with shoot‑through protection suit DC stages. For 230 V AC screen motors, that is "a bit of form over substance." Use relay interlocking instead. [Elektroda, Loker, post #17754091]

What happens if both directions are energized accidentally?

The motor may overheat or fail. The service explicitly warned of burn‑out if UP and DOWN are fed together. End limits do not prevent that condition. Add interlocking to eliminate this failure mode. [Elektroda, ciubas, post #17747473]

Can I replicate my louvre switch behavior with Sonoff?

Yes. Traditional louvre switches mechanically interlock directions and allow sustained voltage, while limits stop travel. Emulate that with an NC-contact relay interlock or firmware interlocking. This preserves safe one-direction-at-a-time operation. [Elektroda, ciubas, post #17747473]

Will a single DPDT relay be enough for mutual exclusion?

Yes. A DPDT relay (two changeover contacts) with a 230 V coil can interlock the UP and DOWN feeds. Wire the contacts to cut one path whenever the opposite direction is active. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17747522]

I don’t want to reflash firmware. What else can I do?

Install a small electronic interlock on the relay control signals. It blocks driving one relay when the other is active. This achieves mutual exclusion without modifying firmware. [Elektroda, Loker, post #17747554]

Is there a ready-made controller for blinds I should consider instead?

Yes. Use a controller designed for shutter or screen motors if you prefer a turnkey solution. It avoids improvised add‑ons and supports safe, interlocked operation by design. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17747412]

Can I combine firmware and hardware interlocking for extra safety?

Yes. Flash Tasmota to enforce software interlock, and add the relay interlock as a physical safeguard. "First off - tasmot. Plus a relay as above." This layered approach reduces risk. [Elektroda, mpier, post #17747539]
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