Touch Light Switch Shuts Off After 10 Seconds - Identical Issue with Replacement

bhtom wrote:

Hello,

Then test the one missing bulb and check. If it is OK, it means that the load is probably too small for this type of switch. You can try connecting a high-power resistor in parallel with the capacitor already used.

Regards.

and what resistor would you recommend checking?

Hello,

First, equalize the number of bulbs between the working and faulty circuits. Check if it helps.

Regards.

unfortunately it didn`t help

Hello,

This is something strange... Check also whether in the malfunctioning circuit the phase is supplied to the L terminal, not N, and whether the constant phase is definitely to the L terminal, and not to Lx. Replace LED adapters, test without them. See what happens when you connect a regular incandescent light bulb.

Regards.

bhtom wrote:

Hello,

This is something strange... Check also whether in the malfunctioning circuit the phase is supplied to the L terminal, not N, and whether the constant phase is definitely to the L terminal, and not to Lx. Replace LED adapters, test without them. See what happens when you connect a regular incandescent light bulb.

Regards.

Checked several times with no effect. Basically, my whole house is in this and 3 circuits have the same effect.

A bathroom with 3 bulbs on 3 Pollux fixtures and a living room on two circuits with 2+2 and 2+2 bulbs, in other places the same fixtures and bulbs work normally....

On one circuit I installed the same switch from another company, "LIVOLO", and it works normally.....

I am looking for a solution so as not to exchange everything now for another company......

Hello,

There must be some reason, since you wrote that when you turn a switch from a faulty circuit into a properly functioning circuit, the switch does not go crazy... So, it`s probably not the switch`s fault.

Regards.

Well, what kind, since the analog switch works normally, and the switch from another company also works...

What about that extra burden you mentioned?

bhtom wrote:

Hello,

Does it behave the same with the front glass casing removed? What is connected as load?

Regards.

Hello, I'll add to the topic
I have a similar problem, with the glass panel removed it works without a problem, after putting the panel in place the light turns on automatically after some time.

Hello,

The sensors under the glass panel should not touch it. You need to use thinner double-sided tape to attach the sensors to the electronics board.

Regards.

buddy, do you see any solution to my problem?

After installing the glass frame, you need to reset the power supply so that the sensor recalibrates the ambient capacitance, otherwise it goes crazy.

Chris_W wrote:

After installing the glass frame, you need to reset the power supply so that the sensor recalibrates the ambient capacitance, otherwise it goes crazy.

Chris, do you know what could be the reason for such a switch turning on and off?

SUCHY_666 wrote:

Chris_W wrote:

After installing the glass frame, you need to reset the power supply so that the sensor recalibrates the ambient capacitance, otherwise it goes crazy.

Chris, do you know what could be the reason for such a switch turning on and off?

Bad calibration of the sensor - it detects some changes in air humidity/temperature, because it does not recognize the surroundings correctly - you need to power such a switch only after installing the frame, then when you turn on the power it calibrates (adjusts to the frame) and then it works properly.
If you have power on the switch and then install the frame, these sensors almost always go crazy - from experience I just don`t know if this is your case.
Sometimes, when there are several next to each other (in a frame), they can interfere with each other, then I bend the laminates a bit and it somehow works, but it is better to avoid multiple frames - they are expensive, incompatible during modernization, and they do not fit or remove properly.
Try holding it for more than 5 seconds - it should beep and blink - then 5 seconds again and it should reset the settings - it works in Livolo, maybe it will also work in clones.

I connected it according to your recommendations and now pay attention!
I turn on the light, double switch, they light up, and then after a while one circuit and the switch go out, while the other circuit lights up, and the switch stops responding to touch and is as if turned off. I connect Livolo to the same and it works normally.....

My dears, I have the same problem.
I installed 4 such touch switches from b-line (they look exactly like in the photos posted in this topic).
A) 1 double switch lights 3 LED lamps in the kitchen (note: new installation - separated from other sources of electricity consumption),
B) 1 single switch turns on the countertop lighting in the kitchen (note: this switch is powered by the neighboring sockets)
C) 1 toilet switch (separate installation)
D) 1 bathroom switch (installation shared with a washing machine socket - old aluminum installation)
In case B, the light turns on and off by itself, but only when adjacent sockets are used (e.g. turn on speakers, mixer, etc.)
In case D, the switch also started going crazy after turning on the washing machine (no LED adapters helped)
In the case of A and C, everything is OK (without LED adapters - I did not install them because there was no need).

For me, there is only one conclusion... These switches are sensitive to changes in current in the circuit... Maybe it’s best to check whether the entire installation is well made (connections up to the fuses)??

He has a similar problem. Spontaneous switching on
New installation and Tuya 2 and 3-switch switches, with N cable.
I noticed that only the switches on number 2 turn on, and only the switch in the double switch, which does not have anything at the end of the cable, e.g. a light bulb or a transformer for the LED.
This means that only the double switch in which there is nothing on the line but the line is connected turns on, if the line is not connected, it does not turn on.

I will try to reset them by plugging in the lines and then check. Maybe it’s a mistake that the empty line was connected after loading the switch.

So the bias theory may work here.
The switches were connected and programmed with the glass in place, so I rule it out, and I also rule out the fact that the switch is always the same from the double switch and the glass is the same (you can probably turn it and thus replace the left and right ones).

They are always programmed in the same way and I don’t know if it matters, I need to check it.
I did this, always after installing a new one, I turned on the application and it asked me if it was flashing, I chose fast, then I always turned on the left switch in the double button and it was ok.
But the left one was always connected to a line and something at the end, I always turned on the left one when programming it.
And only the right one always turns on spontaneously.
So I have to first connect the load and program it and see if anything changes.

I’ll let you know

I see an old thread, but maybe what I'll write will be useful to someone.
As for the Chinese touch switches, I bought for 30 some zlotys from the internet.
They are already 4 years old, I didn't install any nonsense attached to them. These nonsense switches are some kind of yellow capacitors or fuck knows what.
The switches are only bare, connected phase, zero and that's it.
I have one of the double switches hangs up, after about 10 seconds the light goes out, and so once a year.
A reset helps me, ie: I cut the electricity for a while on the hut and the switch goes on like new.