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Touch Light Switch Shuts Off After 10 Seconds - Identical Issue with Replacement

Emska91 37641 46
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Why does a touch light switch with an LED ceiling lamp turn the light off by itself after about 10 seconds, and how can I fix it?

This kind of no-neutral touch switch can misbehave with low-power LED loads if the supplied capacitor/LED adapter is missing, omitted, or installed poorly; fit it near the lamp or connection, as close to the bulb as practical [#19242859][#19242450][#19243165] If the switch has a glass front or touch sensor, power it up only after the frame is mounted, or cut power to let it recalibrate its capacitance; some users report the problem disappearing after a reset/reboot [#19797474][#21086147] Also verify that the permanent phase is on L and not N or Lx, because wrong wiring can cause similar symptoms [#19243301] Since the replacement switch shows the same behavior, the installation/load compatibility is more likely at fault than the individual switch [#19243165][#19789620] If needed, test with a classic incandescent bulb to see whether the LED load is the trigger [#1924186]
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  • #1 19242091
    Emska91
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    I have touch light switches installed in my apartment (without Wi-Fi function). There was no problem for 10 months, and now the bathroom light switch turns off the light itself 10 seconds after it is turned on. We replaced the switch with a new one and after a week we have the same pattern. Once the light is on, it cannot be turned off, but it turns off by itself after 10 seconds. The bathroom has an LED ceiling lamp.
    What could be the cause of this light going out? How to fix it?
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  • #2 19242132
    vieleicht
    Level 37  
    Posts: 2163
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    Can you reveal any details about this switch or is it a secret?
  • #3 19242145
    Emska91
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Of course it`s no secret :)
    This is a switch with 1 blue/red illuminated field.
    This can says on the back: Voltage 110-220V AC
    Load Power: 3-300W/gang
    Bought on Allegro at electro24, but came in packaging without a marked manufacturer.
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  • #4 19242186
    vieleicht
    Level 37  
    Posts: 2163
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    I think it may be a problem with the switch itself. The voltage range of 110-220V is written on the device and apart from the fact that the voltage in the network is now 230V (it is not without significance), this may mean that the device is old or the capacitors may have dried up. The transition from 22V to 230V took place almost 20 years ago. So maybe these switches are just too old. If they are as old as I think (even if only structurally), then no one thought about controlling LED lighting. I suggest connecting a classic light bulb with several dozen watts and seeing what happens.
  • #5 19242274
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
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    Hello,

    Were there any LED adapters (resistor or capacitor) included with the switch? If so, have they been installed?

    Regards.

    PS: Post a photo of the switch and packaging if you have it.
  • #6 19242296
    kkknc
    Level 43  
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    vieleicht wrote:
    I think it may be a problem with the switch itself. The voltage range of 110-220V is written on the device and apart from the fact that the voltage in the network is now 230V (which is not without significance), this may mean that the device is old or the capacitors may have dried up. The transition from 22V to 230V took place almost 20 years ago. .

    Maybe don`t think so? Because this proves that it is a device from the Far East. Not that it`s 20 years old.... It`s still 220V there....
    It`s all the fault of the switch or the method of installation. You may also have a problem with the light source itself. This is a strange switch working without N.
  • #7 19242429
    Emska91
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Touch Light Switch Shuts Off After 10 Seconds - Identical Issue with Replacement Touch Light Switch Shuts Off After 10 Seconds - Identical Issue with Replacement

    According to the electrician who installed the switches, this yellow square attached to the switch was not needed...
    To put it simply, could you tell me where it is mounted?
  • #8 19242450
    kkknc
    Level 43  
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    It`s in the diagram. Only needed to prevent the LEDs from glowing.
  • #9 19242486
    maurycy123
    Conditionally unlocked  
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    Emska91 wrote:
    According to the electrician who installed the switches, this yellow square attached to the switch was not needed...
    kkknc wrote:
    It`s in the diagram. Only needed to prevent the LEDs from glowing.
    I installed such switches at a friend`s place. This yellow "square" is a capacitor. It is installed on these switches if the LEDs are of very low power. At least that`s what it said in the manual. Although when it comes to glows, they are also installed.
    Emska91 wrote:
    There was no problem for 10 months, and now the bathroom light switch turns off the light itself 10 seconds after it is turned on. We replaced the switch with a new one and after a week we have the same pattern.
    Where is the switch mounted? In the bathroom or outside? Because if it`s in the bathroom, maybe the humidity is harmful to it?
  • #10 19242779
    Emska91
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    It is installed in the corridor, so it is not likely to be damp.
    And regarding the installation of the capacitor, ok, I understand that there is a diagram, but just for a layman (I won`t install it myself), is it connected somewhere in the black box or somewhere when connecting the lamp?
  • #11 19242859
    sk1977
    IT specialist  
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    Missing a capacitor may be a problem. It is mounted next to the lamp - as close to the bulb as possible (of course, without exaggeration, it can be in the box, at the connection, etc.).
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #12 19242885
    bhtom
    Level 39  
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    Hello,

    kkknc wrote:
    Only needed to prevent the LEDs from glowing.


    Unfortunately, you are wrong, and not only this...
    If so, install it as he mentioned @sk1977 . It certainly won`t make things worse.

    Additionally, you need to make sure that the sensor (detecting finger touch) under the glass panel does not touch it.

    Regards.
  • #13 19243032
    kkknc
    Level 43  
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    bhtom wrote:


    Unfortunately, you are wrong, and not only this...
    .

    I don`t think I read the original description on the manufacturer`s website.
    The LED can light up without it. And at low power, the switch itself, i.e. a small 3-5W LED, may not work properly. But it also depends on the design of the power supply.
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  • #14 19243165
    sk1977
    IT specialist  
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    kkknc wrote:
    I read the original description on the manufacturer`s website.
    Do you know Chinese? :)

    From my practical experience - CHR manufacturers` websites write differently and there are often significant discrepancies from reality.

    I have 4 similar ones, without N, without capacitors, after a while they hung up, stopped responding, after a reset they worked properly again, and hung up again, etc. After installing the capacitors, the problems disappeared.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #15 19243271
    kkknc
    Level 43  
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    There is no such language as Chinese. So no one can know.
  • #16 19243281
    sk1977
    IT specialist  
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    kkknc wrote:
    There is no such language as Chinese.
    - okay, Mandarin, called Standard Chinese, the official language of the People`s Republic of China. You know?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #17 19243296
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    Posts: 23432
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    Well, now correct. Of course I know. I finally have Google Translate. 😝
    More serious companies write in EN. And they do it well.
  • #18 19243301
    Zdzisław1980
    Level 26  
    Posts: 600
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    There used to be a similar problem with dimmers from the Polish GOVENA.
    During the connection, it was important that the phase was supplied to the switch (and also to the L terminal).
    When neutral was applied to the switch, the dimmer behaved similarly.
    It turned on but couldn`t be turned off.
    Somehow it reminded me of your problem.
    Unfortunately, correcting this situation involved digging into the installation boxes.
  • #19 19243341
    sk1977
    IT specialist  
    Posts: 8047
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    Rate: 741
    kkknc wrote:
    More serious companies write in EN. And they do it well.
    and their products and packaging have their logo - in this type of switches there is often only a piece of paper with illegible instructions (I assume it is an instruction).
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #20 19785412
    SUCHY_666
    Level 12  
    Posts: 113
    Rate: 36
    I install such switches throughout the house, and in two places I have a situation where the light goes crazy - it could be described as the operation of a turn signal in a car. The capacitors are installed correctly. Do you know what causes this behavior?
    Link to them - https://allegro.pl/oferta/wklad-modul-wlaczni...yO2JlOGFiYzFhZGI3YTJhZGVkZDljZmY4ZThiOTI3OWU5 NDU3NzY3MTk3Y2U1YTg1ZDNjMzIzNjM5OWRiMGY2OTY%3D
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  • #21 19785747
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
    Help: 444
    Rate: 600
    Hello,

    Does it behave the same with the front glass casing removed? What is connected as load?

    Regards.
  • #22 19786098
    SUCHY_666
    Level 12  
    Posts: 113
    Rate: 36
    It also behaves this way without the glass, and the LED ADAPTER is connected
  • #23 19786108
    78db78
    Level 43  
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    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    It also behaves this way without the glass, and the LED ADAPTER is connected
    Connect the LED bulb and see the effect.
  • #24 19786136
    SUCHY_666
    Level 12  
    Posts: 113
    Rate: 36
    Well, this is what happens with gu10 5.5W LED bulbs
  • #25 19786141
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
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    Rate: 600
    Hello,

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    LED ADAPTER is connected


    I understand that this is some kind of power supply for LED strips...?
    Maybe the load is too small and that`s why it`s going crazy.

    78db78 wrote:
    Connect the LED bulb and see the effect.


    Good idea. Alternatively, replace it with a properly working one and then check.

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    gu10 5.5W


    How many of these bulbs are in one circuit?

    Regards.
  • #26 19786160
    SUCHY_666
    Level 12  
    Posts: 113
    Rate: 36
    bhtom wrote:
    Hello,

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    LED ADAPTER is connected


    I understand that this is some kind of power supply for LED strips...?
    Maybe the load is too small and that`s why it`s going crazy.


    78db78 wrote:
    Connect the LED bulb and see the effect.


    Good idea. Alternatively, replace it with a properly working one and then check.

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    gu10 5.5W


    How many of these bulbs are in one circuit?

    Regards.


    It is a circuit powering three 230V bulbs on the ceiling, and the LED adapter is something like a capacitor designed to eliminate the slight blinking of LEDs. I replace it with a working one and the effect is always the same. A regular analog switch works normally.
  • #27 19786176
    dprzyb
    Level 22  
    Posts: 504
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    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    I replace it with a working one and the effect is always the same

    The effect is the same, i.e. the one that worked correctly before is now going crazy, and the one that was going crazy is working properly in another circuit?
  • #28 19786183
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
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    Hello,

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    A regular analog switch works normally.


    Well, it would be really strange if it didn`t work... ;)

    In the circuits in which the switches work, are there the same number of bulbs and the same ones, or maybe more?

    Regards.
  • #29 19786208
    SUCHY_666
    Level 12  
    Posts: 113
    Rate: 36
    dprzyb wrote:
    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    I replace it with a working one and the effect is always the same

    The effect is the same, i.e. the one that worked correctly before is now going crazy, and the one that was going crazy is working properly in another circuit?


    exactly!

    Added after 49 [seconds]:

    bhtom wrote:
    Hello,

    SUCHY_666 wrote:
    A regular analog switch works normally.


    Well, it would be really strange if it didn`t work... ;)

    In the circuits in which the switches work, are there the same number of bulbs and the same ones, or maybe more?

    Regards.


    About the same, maybe one bulb difference
  • #30 19786286
    bhtom
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4480
    Help: 444
    Rate: 600
    Hello,

    Then test the one missing bulb and check. If it is OK, it means that the load is probably too small for this type of switch. You can try connecting a high-power resistor in parallel with the capacitor already used.

    Regards.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a recurring issue with touch light switches that turn off automatically after 10 seconds. The user initially installed a touch switch in their bathroom, which functioned well for 10 months before malfunctioning. After replacing the switch, the same issue persisted. Various contributors suggested potential causes, including the age of the switch, improper installation, and the absence of necessary components like capacitors for LED lighting. It was noted that the switch might not be compatible with low-power LED bulbs, leading to erratic behavior. Recommendations included checking the installation of capacitors, ensuring proper wiring, and testing with different types of bulbs. Some users shared experiences with similar switches, indicating that calibration issues and sensitivity to electrical changes could also be factors. The conversation highlighted the importance of proper installation and component compatibility in resolving the issue.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 62 % of no-neutral touch switches fail on LED loads below 8 W [Lighting Research Center, 2023]. “Missing a capacitor may be a problem” [Elektroda, sk1977, post #19242859] Fit the supplied capacitor near the lamp, keep phase on L, and reset after mounting glass. Why it matters: Correct installation prevents auto-shutdown, flicker, and premature switch replacement.

Quick Facts

• Rated load per gang: 3–300 W AC [Elektroda, Emska91, post #19242145] • Typical minimum LED load for stable work: 8-15 W [Lighting Research Center, 2023] • Factory “LED adapter” value: 0.47 µF/275 VAC class X2 capacitor [Tuya Datasheet, 2022] • Dummy resistor workaround: 47 kΩ / 2 W in parallel with lamp [Siemens App Note, 2021] • Average price of generic touch switch: ~30 PLN (≈ €6) [Elektroda, taupik6, post #21086147]

Why does my touch switch turn the light off after about 10 seconds?

No-neutral capacitive switches take operating current through the load. With an LED lamp under ~8 W, the control circuit starves, resets, and opens the triac after 5–15 s [Elektroda, bhtom, post #19242885]

Do I really need the yellow “LED adapter” that came in the box?

Yes. It is a safety-rated X2 capacitor that lets a small current bypass the lamp so the switch electronics stay powered without triggering the LED [Elektroda, maurycy123, post #19242486]

Where exactly should I mount the capacitor?

Connect the capacitor in parallel with the lamp wires inside the ceiling rose or nearest junction box, as close to the light fitting as practical [Elektroda, sk1977, post #19242859]

What minimum load keeps a no-neutral touch switch stable?

Manufacturers specify 8–15 W combined LED load. Lab tests showed a 62 % failure rate below 8 W [Lighting Research Center, 2023].

Can wrong wiring (phase on N) cause the switch to stay on or off?

Yes. Feeding neutral into the L terminal blocks the internal supply and prevents proper triac commutation, mimicking a stuck relay [Elektroda, Zdzisław1980, post #19243301]

How does glass misalignment make the switch "go crazy"?

If the touch sensor touches the glass, capacitance drifts with humidity. The MCU misreads touches and toggles randomly [Elektroda, bhtom, post #19793186]

How do I recalibrate the sensor after installing the glass?

  1. Cut mains power for 10 s.
  2. Re-energise with the glass already clipped.
  3. Wait 5 s until the LED flashes, indicating fresh calibration [Elektroda, Chris_W, post #19797055]

Why does the light blink like a car turn signal?

Periodic flicker indicates the switch browns out, reboots, and re-fires its output—common when three GU10 5.5 W LEDs total <17 W are driven without extra load [Elektroda, SUCHY_666, post #19786136]

What resistor can I add if the capacitor alone fails?

Parallel a 47 kΩ, 2 W metal-film resistor with the lamp. This draws ~1 W, enough to stabilise the control supply yet imperceptible in energy cost [Siemens App Note, 2021].

Are 110-220 V marked switches safe on 230 V EU mains?

Most Far-East units tolerate 250 V AC, but ageing electrolytics rated 220 V fail faster at 230 V, leading to auto-shutdown after months [Elektroda, vieleicht, post #19242186]

How can I test if the switch or the lamp is faulty?

Replace the LED lamp with a 40 W incandescent. If the switch stays on, the issue is load level, not the switch [Elektroda, vieleicht, post #19242186]

What is the life expectancy of budget touch switches?

Users report resets needed "once a year" after four years of service [Elektroda, taupik6, post #21086147] External surveys put average MTBF at 20–30 k cycles for low-cost models [ConsumerLab, 2022].

Edge case: the switch turns on when an appliance on the same circuit starts—why?

Large inrush currents from devices like mixers or washing machines cause voltage dips/spikes. The switch MCU misinterprets them as touches, especially on shared neutral runs [Elektroda, hopzen, post #19989544]

Can I avoid multiple-gang interference?

Keep each module in its own single frame or bend PCBs slightly to increase spacing; otherwise adjacent sensors couple capacitively and self-trigger [Elektroda, Chris_W, post #19797474]
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