FAQ
TL;DR: In a 50-model AA shoot-out, typical alkaline cells delivered ~2 Ah, while lithium hit ~3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]; “branded batteries are not worth buying” [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826] Store-brand alkalines often top price-to-capacity charts.
Why it matters: Choosing the right chemistry and brand can cut battery spend by 50 % without losing run-time.
Quick Facts
• Typical alkaline AA capacity: 1.8–2.2 Ah at 0.2–0.3 A load [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
• Lithium AA starts at 1.6 V and stores approx. 3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
• Price span: store-brand alkaline €0.25–0.35 each vs. big-brand €0.60–1.00 [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]
• Viral test load: constant 0.3 A down to 0.8 V cut-off [Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454]
• High-current toys can draw >2 A bursts; TV remotes <20 mA steady [Elektroda, OldSkull, post #19737202]
How were the AA batteries tested in the viral YouTube review?
All 50 models were discharged at 0.3 A until voltage fell to 0.8 V using the same electronic load, then capacity and cost per watt-hour were ranked [Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454]
Why do some engineers call 0.3 A “too heavy” for AA testing?
Most consumer devices draw 20–200 mA; continuous 300 mA exaggerates internal resistance losses and shortens run-time, so results favour cells designed for high drain [Elektroda, ^ToM^, #19737401].
Which alkaline brands gave the best value?
Auchan, Lidl Aerocell and EverActive Pro delivered similar capacity to Duracell yet cost 40-60 % less per Wh [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]
Is it worth paying extra for “premium” Duracell or Energizer AA?
No. Tests and user data show negligible capacity gain versus store brands, but price doubles [Elektroda, Adamcyn, post #19737213] "Save your money for lithium when you really need endurance" —OldSkull [Elektroda, 19737027]
How can I spot batteries suited for high-drain gadgets?
Look for 1.6 V starting voltage (lithium) or labels like “Power” or “High Drain.” Measure loaded voltage: a drop under 1.1 V at 1 A indicates low-drain chemistry [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]
What cell fits best in low-drain devices like clocks?
Standard alkaline or even zinc-carbon work; a single AA can last two years in a wall clock at <0.1 mA [Elektroda, oldking, post #20638011]
Why don’t primary cells list capacity like rechargeables?
Manufacturers avoid liability because capacity varies with load, temperature and ageing; clearer specs could reduce repeat sales [Elektroda, E8600, post #19736747]
Do batteries really recover when the load is paused?
Yes. Electrode depolarisation restores some voltage during rest, giving up to 5 % extra usable capacity under intermittent loads [Elektroda, koczis_ws, post #19736978]
How consistent are cheap store-brand batteries between batches?
Repeatability is uncertain; batch variation can swing capacity by ±15 %, so sample multiple packages before bulk buying [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]
How do I run a simple capacity test at home?
- Connect AA to a 7.5 Ω resistor (≈200 mA).
- Log voltage every minute until it hits 0.9 V.
- Multiply current by hours for mAh result [Elektroda, noel200, post #19740698]
Can I substitute a larger C (R14) cell for an AA?
Only if the device’s holder or an adapter fits; capacity may quintuple but weight increases. Avoid soldering directly to cells to prevent seal damage [Elektroda, flinc, post #20637393]
What edge-case problems should buyers watch for?
Counterfeit branded cells still flood online markets and can leak electrolyte within months, damaging toys [Elektroda, barondary, post #20638436]
What’s the environmental cost of discarding partly-used cells?
Each alkaline AA contains about 700 mg of zinc and manganese; throwing away 30 % unused charge wastes roughly 0.6 Wh and metals that need energy-intensive mining [US DOE, 2021].
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