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AA Battery Test - which are the best? Which are profitable? Which are you overpa

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #31 19738840
    Jawi_P
    Level 36  
    ^ToM^ wrote:
    Does not make sense. Nothing special will come of it. The ranking will be close.

    But it does not have to apply to batteries, e.g. rechargeable batteries.
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  • #32 19738855
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    The batteries are the best. However, maybe someone on YT has already done it recently and it's enough to discuss it now.
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  • #33 19738896
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
    koczis_ws wrote:
    kris8888 wrote:
    Some batteries exhibit a slight "regeneration" effect during a power outage.

    Virtually all. This is called electrode depolarization.

    Can you explain it to me or give me a link where I can explore this topic.
    For me, depolarization has always been associated with reversing polarity.
  • #34 19739997
    koczis_ws
    Level 27  
    szeryf3 wrote:
    For me, depolarization has always been associated with reversing polarity.

    What you are talking about is reversal. Depolarization consists in the automatic removal of harmful substances or gas bubbles that form on the surface of the electrodes when current flows through the cell. After some time without current flow, these substances are deactivated, increasing the active surface of the electrodes, which translates into an increase in cell efficiency.
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  • #35 19740620
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
    Thanks for clarifying the term.
  • #36 19740698
    noel200
    Level 27  
    A very nice test. In my opinion, 300mA is a good value. By checking with such a high current, we also check the quality of the materials used to build the battery. Namely, the internal resistance of the battery. The smaller the better, the more current you can safely pull. There will be no problem if we put a battery with a low Rw into the remote control or watch. But if in the 10mA test it turns out that the X battery will be the best and everyone starts buying it and putting it in toys, flashlights etc. where the current is high and the battery has a high Rw, then there would be a problem. It would rain quickly, pollution, costs, etc. And it would turn out that for many such a test would be useless, because for applications with higher current it would still not be known which batteries to buy.
    I bought myself a few years ago on aliex .. such a small tester.
    https://www.gotronik.pl/tester-pojemnosci-ogniw-zb2l3-v23-p-5740.html
    As a load, I connected a 7.5 ohm resistor and set the end voltage to 0.9V. I have already measured several batteries and accumulators. My results cannot be directly compared to the measurements of others, but due to the same conditions, I can compare my measurements. Lidl was the best for me. And GP is the worst. Varta industrial all blue very good. And with the Energizer recharge battery nominally 2300mAh.
  • #37 20635904
    flinc
    Level 29  
    I am testing R 14 batteries in clocks with an R 6 battery I accepted, the R14 battery has a large capacity
  • #38 20636151
    koczis_ws
    Level 27  
    flinc wrote:
    I am testing R 14 batteries in clocks with an R 6 battery I accepted, the R14 battery has a large capacity

    How did you put it in there?
  • #39 20637393
    flinc
    Level 29  
    I soldered the tape from the laptop battery to the poles of the R 14 / R20 battery, and the R 6 battery with pole insulation to hold the tape - plates It is easier without soldering the battery baskets R 14 R 20
    P.S. above scribble applies to wall clocks
  • #40 20637505
    Adamcyn
    Level 38  
    flinc wrote:
    I am testing R 14 batteries in clocks with an R 6 battery I accepted, the R14 battery has a large capacity

    How long does such a test take?
  • #41 20638011
    oldking
    Level 33  
    In my clocks, an AA battery lasts for such 2 years, which means that R14 (C) should last for 4-5 years.
    I wonder why my colleague performs such strange tests, it is known that the larger the battery, the greater the capacity (we are not talking about fakes).
  • #42 20638436
    barondary
    Level 20  
    There are a lot of battery tests on the net, various testing methods, for example here:
    https://fundamentjezus.blogspot.com/2019/11/tester-capacity-life-battery.html
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwXSqElGBHw
    I use a lot of batteries (I buy them in bulk), mainly for interactive toys, so before buying I watch the available tests and do the financial calculations. Unfortunately, when shopping online, there are fakes of even branded batteries, which can only be found after some time. I will not give the name, but one of the branded AAs, with a very good term, poured out after a few months of use (it was found twice in different devices).
  • #43 20638437
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #44 20638531
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    OK, a battery must have at least two cells, but colloquially a cell is a battery.
    The author of the topic, admin DIY also uses this vocabulary
    bestler wrote:
    One of the most interesting technical bloggers undertook to examine over 50 models of various AA batteries, i.e. the most popular "finger".
  • #45 20639202
    bestler
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Do you personally think it's a linguistic error? Or technical? The word battery seems to stick strongly to 1.5V cells :)
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  • #46 20639229
    koczis_ws
    Level 27  
    bestler wrote:
    The word battery seems to stick strongly to 1.5V cells


    Oh, it fell hard like many others, e.g. LED bulbs. It annoys me but hey, it's a fight against windmills :)
  • #47 20639238
    TechEkspert
    Editor
    There is a big problem with this, the AA "battery" is a cell, but e.g. a 9V block is already a battery because it consists of several cells,
    the battery is reserved for rechargeable sources, interestingly, inside the VRLA 12 there are 6 "cells" and it is still a battery no matter how many elements it has, for Li-ion batteries in the packages there is often a number indicating the number of elements connected to each other.

    The same thing as with the "LED bulb", it's a mistake, but everyone knows what it is...

    In general, I try to use these terms correctly, but I happen to write / say incorrectly, but as long as the recipient knows what it is about, it's ok.

    Easier (or maybe harder?) is in English - battery and that's it.
  • #48 20639314
    koczis_ws
    Level 27  
    TechEkspert wrote:
    It's easier (or maybe harder?) in English - battery and that's it.


    Eno, there is a word "cell" for a link (electric because it is different for a chain and in turn it is the same with us. And how to get along without context :) ).
    It's common to say "battery" for a car battery in jargon.
  • #49 20639537
    TechEkspert
    Editor
    It's actually 'cell' also goes with 'fuel cell'. In the UPS, the batteries connected in series are string/string.
  • #50 20639678
    Adamcyn
    Level 38  
    In Germany, even industry people won't say AA Zelle, but AA Batterie.
  • #51 20639724
    E8600
    Level 41  
    I hate these naming conventions. Ask your "baby" what an AA cell is and if she sees it, she probably has a mustache.
    By forcefully using specialist terminology, we close this forum to new users. I was taught that in order to teach someone something, you need to use simple everyday language.
  • #52 20639805
    koczis_ws
    Level 27  
    We've gone a bit off topic, but that's okay. Continuing with the naming there is confusion with confusion.
    An electric cell is called a battery, but a chain link is not called a chain. A light bulb is colloquially referred to as both incandescent and LED light sources, but somehow I have never met an electroluminescent bulb, only a fluorescent lamp. :D
  • #53 20639875
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
    Then go to the kiosk and tell the saleswoman that you need to buy an R-14 battery.
    This lady's face will be priceless when she sends you to the auto parts store.
    Or that you need a 10W LED light source for E27.
  • #54 20639879
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    szeryf3 wrote:
    Then go to the kiosk and tell the saleswoman that you need to buy an R-14 battery.
    This lady's face will be priceless when she sends you to the auto parts store.
    Or that you need a 10W LED light source for E27.


    But if you say "R14 battery" she will probably already know what's going on. :D
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Topic summary

✨ A technical blogger conducted a comprehensive test of over 50 AA battery models, including popular alkaline, zinc, and lithium types, available in retail stores like Biedronka and Lidl. The testing aimed to evaluate performance under controlled discharge conditions. Participants discussed the variability in battery performance based on application, storage conditions, and manufacturing quality. Many noted that branded batteries, such as Duracell and Energizer, often underperformed compared to store-brand options. The consensus suggested that higher-class private label batteries might offer better value. Concerns were raised about the lack of standardized labeling for battery types and their intended applications, complicating consumer choices. The discussion also highlighted the importance of testing under various load conditions to accurately assess battery performance.

FAQ

TL;DR: In a 50-model AA shoot-out, typical alkaline cells delivered ~2 Ah, while lithium hit ~3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]; “branded batteries are not worth buying” [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826] Store-brand alkalines often top price-to-capacity charts.

Why it matters: Choosing the right chemistry and brand can cut battery spend by 50 % without losing run-time.

Quick Facts

• Typical alkaline AA capacity: 1.8–2.2 Ah at 0.2–0.3 A load [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342] • Lithium AA starts at 1.6 V and stores approx. 3 Ah [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342] • Price span: store-brand alkaline €0.25–0.35 each vs. big-brand €0.60–1.00 [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826] • Viral test load: constant 0.3 A down to 0.8 V cut-off [Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454] • High-current toys can draw >2 A bursts; TV remotes <20 mA steady [Elektroda, OldSkull, post #19737202]

How were the AA batteries tested in the viral YouTube review?

All 50 models were discharged at 0.3 A until voltage fell to 0.8 V using the same electronic load, then capacity and cost per watt-hour were ranked [Elektroda, bestler, post #19735454]

Why do some engineers call 0.3 A “too heavy” for AA testing?

Most consumer devices draw 20–200 mA; continuous 300 mA exaggerates internal resistance losses and shortens run-time, so results favour cells designed for high drain [Elektroda, ^ToM^, post #19737401]

Which alkaline brands gave the best value?

Auchan, Lidl Aerocell and EverActive Pro delivered similar capacity to Duracell yet cost 40-60 % less per Wh [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]

Is it worth paying extra for “premium” Duracell or Energizer AA?

No. Tests and user data show negligible capacity gain versus store brands, but price doubles [Elektroda, Adamcyn, post #19737213] "Save your money for lithium when you really need endurance" —OldSkull [Elektroda, 19737027]

How can I spot batteries suited for high-drain gadgets?

Look for 1.6 V starting voltage (lithium) or labels like “Power” or “High Drain.” Measure loaded voltage: a drop under 1.1 V at 1 A indicates low-drain chemistry [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #19736342]

What cell fits best in low-drain devices like clocks?

Standard alkaline or even zinc-carbon work; a single AA can last two years in a wall clock at <0.1 mA [Elektroda, oldking, post #20638011]

Why don’t primary cells list capacity like rechargeables?

Manufacturers avoid liability because capacity varies with load, temperature and ageing; clearer specs could reduce repeat sales [Elektroda, E8600, post #19736747]

Do batteries really recover when the load is paused?

Yes. Electrode depolarisation restores some voltage during rest, giving up to 5 % extra usable capacity under intermittent loads [Elektroda, koczis_ws, post #19736978]

How consistent are cheap store-brand batteries between batches?

Repeatability is uncertain; batch variation can swing capacity by ±15 %, so sample multiple packages before bulk buying [Elektroda, Kpc21, post #19735826]

How do I run a simple capacity test at home?

  1. Connect AA to a 7.5 Ω resistor (≈200 mA).
  2. Log voltage every minute until it hits 0.9 V.
  3. Multiply current by hours for mAh result [Elektroda, noel200, post #19740698]

Can I substitute a larger C (R14) cell for an AA?

Only if the device’s holder or an adapter fits; capacity may quintuple but weight increases. Avoid soldering directly to cells to prevent seal damage [Elektroda, flinc, post #20637393]

What edge-case problems should buyers watch for?

Counterfeit branded cells still flood online markets and can leak electrolyte within months, damaging toys [Elektroda, barondary, post #20638436]

What’s the environmental cost of discarding partly-used cells?

Each alkaline AA contains about 700 mg of zinc and manganese; throwing away 30 % unused charge wastes roughly 0.6 Wh and metals that need energy-intensive mining [US DOE, 2021].
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