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Homemate smart breaker 16A not able to use with tuna cloud cutter

ciknururko 1785 19
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  • #1 20782298
    ciknururko
    Level 3  

    Hello,

    I have the following smart breaker from Homemate, but I am not able to use the tuna cloud cutter with this device. https://homemate.co.in/product/switch-breaker/

    I am getting the following message:

    "The profile you selected did not result in a successful exploit."

    The Main Module version, as per the smartlife app, is v1.3.8.

    HomeMate smart breaker next to its packaging.

    Kindly guide me on which profile I should choose.

    Regards
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  • #2 20783147
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    I think you can try multiple other profiles of similiar devices. There is no rule to that. In worst case, you can always use 'wired' method, soldering is easy so it should be not a problem... I can guide you step by step if you want. That kind of device is easily openable. Pads are easy to access.
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  • #3 20783165
    ciknururko
    Level 3  

    I have tried multiple profiles but none of those worked.

    Kindly guide how to flash it with soldering.
    Thanks
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  • #4 20783195
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Can you provide photos from the inside of the device?

    But in general, please see our Elektroda youtube channel:
    https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    We have a guide for similiar device:



    However, now we prefer this flash tool:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/BK7231GUIFlashTool
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  • #5 20783891
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    Yes will upload the pcb photos soon
  • #6 20783989
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Usually the flashing process should be easier than the one we have shown on our video. Usually you don't have to remove capacitors/other elements from RX/TX lines, because they are not used at all.
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  • #7 20784366
    ciknururko
    Level 3  

    Homemate smart breaker 16A not able to use with tuna cloud cutter Homemate smart breaker 16A not able to use with tuna cloud cutter >>20783195

    If you want any more details please let me know.

    Also is flashing via OTA not possible ?
  • #8 20784507
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    I don't know if flashing via OTA is possible. It's hard to tell, it depends on whether there is already a matching profile.

    There isn't much on the photos. I can see only the top side of the board. I can also see a possibly AMS1117-3.3V LDO. I can also see an empty space for WiFi module... did you desolder it? Or was it always empty? If there a QFN BK7231 on the bottom side of this board?
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  • #9 20784568
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    Sorry my bad... uploaded the wrong photos.

    Will upload the homemate smart breaker photos soon.
  • #10 20791632
    ciknururko
    Level 3  

    Circuit board with electronic components on a white background. Green circuit board with markings HE-OEM-P1 and various components. Switch circuit board with various electronic components. >>20784507


    Sorry, earlier I posted the pics of wrong pub of some other switch. I was out of town after that.

    Please find the correct images of the PCB board of the switch. Please let me know if any other detail is needed.
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  • #11 20791701
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    What module is used there?

    Watch this video:



    You can desolder module that way and flash it outside circuit
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  • #12 20791719
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    the module is CB2S.

    Can you plz guide me which USB to TTL programmer should I buy?

    Thanks
  • #13 20791747
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    CB2S is also used on the video I linked, so it should work.

    You can use the same USB to UART converted we have on the video, but also remember that you need a stable 3.3V source. 5V would damage CB2S.

    There are many other good USB to UART converters around, some of them even with 3.3V output, but I haven't tested them.
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  • #14 20791752
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    Ok let me first get a usb to ttl programmer
  • #15 20791758
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Alternatively, I heard that you can use Arduino or NodeMCU boards in a form of USB to TTL converter. Just put the MCU into RESET state.
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  • #16 20791761
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    Any tutorial on how to using nodemcu or arduino??
  • #17 20791954
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    You can check the tutorials for ESP flashing that way and it will be the same.

    Still, I can give you a fast version:
    1. short RESET to GND so MCU is in the reset state
    2. connect RX and TX (swap if needed) to BK
    3. connect 3.3V to BK, GND to BK
    4. flash, do a 3.3V disconnect power cycle to reboot BK so it can get bus
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  • #18 20791976
    ciknururko
    Level 3  
    Will give it a try.

    Is there no way to do it via OTA??
  • #19 20792062
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    As I said in one of the first posts - it can be flashed via OTA only if there is a matching cloudcutter profile. I don't know how to tell which profile should you try, you should just look for similiar devices in the profiles list:
    https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html
    Select Cloudcutter profiles from "Type" dropdown on this page and click apply.

    I am always flashing by wires, because I think it's way faster method in case of most devices.
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  • #20 20792099
    ciknururko
    Level 3  

    I can understand it's difficult to suggest a profile. I myself have tried many profiles but none worked for me.

    My main problem is, I have never done soldering. So I'm very scared to go this way.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a user experiencing issues with a Homemate smart breaker (16A) when attempting to use it with a Tuna Cloud Cutter. The user receives an error message indicating a failed exploit with the selected profile. Various suggestions are made, including trying different profiles, using a wired method for flashing, and utilizing a USB to TTL programmer. The user expresses concerns about soldering, as they lack experience. The conversation includes guidance on flashing techniques, the importance of using a stable 3.3V source, and the possibility of using Arduino or NodeMCU as USB to TTL converters. The user is encouraged to explore profiles for similar devices to find a compatible one for OTA flashing.

FAQ

TL;DR: Cloudcutter failing? Flash CB2S by wire using 3.3V logic; "5V would damage CB2S." Use a USB‑UART and BK7231GUIFlashTool. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791747]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Homemate breaker owners recover from failed Tuna Cloudcutter attempts and safely flash CB2S modules without damage.

Quick Facts

How do I fix “The profile you selected did not result in a successful exploit” with Tuna Cloudcutter?

That message means there isn’t a matching Cloudcutter profile for your device/firmware. Check the devices list and filter by Type → Cloudcutter. If you can’t find a working match, switch to wired flashing, which the maintainer recommends as faster. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20792062]

Which Cloudcutter profile should I try for the Homemate breaker?

There’s no exact rule. Try profiles from similar Tuya devices until one works. If none succeeds, use the wired method. The device is easy to open, and pads are accessible, so a wired flash is practical even for first‑timers. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20783147]

Is OTA flashing possible on this CB2S device?

Yes, but only if a matching Cloudcutter profile exists for your exact firmware. If no profile matches, OTA will fail, and you should flash by wires instead. The profiles list is the authoritative place to check before attempting OTA again. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20792062]

What voltage and adapter do I need for wired flashing?

Use a USB‑to‑UART adapter and a stable 3.3V power source. Do not use 5V on CB2S. As the expert noted, “5V would damage CB2S.” Many generic USB‑UART adapters work fine when powered correctly at 3.3V. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791747]

Can I use a NodeMCU or Arduino as a USB‑TTL adapter?

Yes. Put the board’s MCU into RESET so the USB‑serial bridge is free, then wire RX, TX, GND, and 3.3V to CB2S. As advised, “Just put the MCU into RESET state.” This is a cost‑effective alternative to a dedicated adapter. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791758]

How do I wire‑flash the CB2S quickly?

Follow this 3‑step snippet:
  1. Hold the host MCU in RESET by shorting RESET to GND.
  2. Connect USB‑UART RX↔TX, TX↔RX, plus 3.3V and GND to CB2S.
  3. Start the flash, then power‑cycle 3.3V once to let CB2S take the bus. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791954]

Do I need to remove capacitors or other parts on RX/TX lines?

No. You usually don’t need to remove capacitors or other elements on RX/TX for flashing. They are not used in this process. This makes the wired approach simpler than older tutorials might suggest. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20783989]

Do I have to desolder the CB2S module to flash it?

Not required, but it’s an option. You can desolder the module and flash it outside the circuit, as shown in the referenced guide. Many users succeed in‑circuit, so desoldering is only for tricky cases. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791701]

What flashing software do you recommend for BK7231/CB2S?

Use the BK7231GUIFlashTool from OpenSHWProjects. The maintainer now prefers this tool for BK7231‑based modules over older methods and links to it directly. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20783195]

It still won’t connect—what should I check?

First, swap RX and TX; a reversed pair blocks communication. Then power‑cycle the 3.3V line to release the bus and retry. Ensure the host MCU is held in RESET during the flash attempt. These two checks fix most connection failures. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20791954]

Which Wi‑Fi module is inside the Homemate smart breaker?

The unit shown in the thread uses a Tuya CB2S module. Knowing this helps you pick the correct pinout and flash tool settings for BK7231‑based hardware. [Elektroda, ciknururko, post #20791719]

I’ve never soldered—can I still do the wired method safely?

Yes. The device is easy to open, and the pads are accessible. The moderator even offered step‑by‑step guidance. Use low heat, fine tips, and practice on scrap first for confidence. Wired flashing remains the most reliable route here. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20783147]
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