What surge and USB protection system does the 10$ power strip have?

Jogesh wrote:

Lestar LFT 2001

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From the description it can be a good product - keidyś used to use various strips in times when there was a weak power supply for PCs.
These or other strips gave a chance that the power supplies would not burn out from something.
I remember ACARs, EVERs and the like. Nowadays it's supposedly worth buying what are as power strips for rack cabinets, the cost is probably similar to the one you mentioned.

Yes - the skirting board has protection for the RJ11 socket, in the days of modems this was necessary. In the 90s this was the infrormation, many interferences, problems with PEN and others. The power strip gave you more chance to use your computer - maybe the old AT power supplies were not resistant enough? ATX seem much more resistant to problems.

It seems to me that every year they make worse and worse crap with prices going up anyway.
I saw these strips without protection a couple of nice years ago and bought one in a poorra.
Mine is much better made and still doesn't have a varistor.
For me, giving a varistor alone is not enough. There needs to be a fuse in addition before the varistor to effectively protect the equipment.
In this case, a 10A fuse is still too much because those wires inside are crying out for replacement. They remind me of the wires of cheap Christmas tree lights.
It's frightening to use.

VPSA132 wrote:

It seems to me that every year they make worse and worse crap at already rising prices.

Not true. The prices of industrial products are steadily falling, including electronic and various electrical products. The problem, on the other hand, is the fact that more expensive and also more robustly made products are being widely discontinued. As a result, we often buy such a strip when there is simply no better choice.

Mateusz_konstruktor wrote:

...when a better one to choose from simply isn't available.

There is a choice, even the decent strips already indicated in this thread. But of course you have to pay a lot more for them.

I have a similar skirting board, only that the phase is common and the neutrals to the individual sockets are disconnected.
Is it possible to reverse the cables in this case so that the common is the neutral line?
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Daroken wrote:

I have a similar strip, only that the phase is common and the neutrals to the individual sockets are disconnected.
Is it possible in this case to reverse the cables so that the common is the neutral line?

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Why the assumption that the phase is common?

Because I checked with a tester and the bottom one (the common line in the photo) has phase.

Are you sure this will be the case with any gnaizard to which you connect an extension cord?

And what standard should the line layout of a grounded socket be? Because I see different statements and pictures on the internet.

Daroken wrote:

Because I see different statements and images on the internet.

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Well that's just it - different. You plug into one socket you will have phase, on another it will be zero.
The solution is a two-pole switch, but there are costs involved.

acctr wrote:

The solution is a two-pole switch, but there are costs involved.

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I have checked out all the sockets and strips for myself.
The single ones are ok and the double ones are ordinary so the phase is cross.
Only in the studio it might make a difference, but here I use extension strips which I plugged into "legal" sockets.
In the other rooms it is unlikely to make a difference.
It seems to me that the amplifier fed from this 'left' had a 50 Hz 'burble'.
I'll check it out sometime.

In my skirting board, the main switch is a two-pole switch, but that doesn't change things because the individual sockets in the skirting board are cut off with a single-pole switch and I would prefer not to have the phase alone left on the equipment. I want to use the strip in the workshop.
So, anyway, what should the 'legitimate' sockets look like?

You can't assume that it's the same everywhere, because even if an electrician has tried to stick to a certain rule of zero on the right and phase on the left, you can find a conductor who reverses this order.

Ok, but if we assume that the principle on the right zero on the left phase is common in this strip....

Daroken wrote:

Either way, what should "legitimate" sockets look like?

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In appearance almost the same as all double sockets.
The construction of normal double sockets does not allow for the right-hand phase principle but it does allow for two earthed plugs to be plugged in correctly and the phase will be 'right-handed' on the appliance.
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There are double sockets which supposedly provide this but are more expensive and handicapped.
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You can plug a grounded plug into one such socket and a radio or shaver into the other.
Two 90 °

grounded plugs are not possible.
Both plugs or at least one must be like that:
url=https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1943314100_1726211025.png] [/url]
In such a situation, a practical solution is to purchase a Czech socket.
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All in all, the Czechs are right.
Who knows what idea a profit-minded person ordering some equipment from a manufacturer in Asia will come up with?
Here:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3834251.html
some more information.

Where/when would the problem occur if I swapped the order in the socket and the neutral was on the left with the earth pin on top?

Daroken wrote:

Where/when would the problem occur if I swapped the order in the socket and the neutral was on the left with the earth pin on top?

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When the strip breaks you buy a new one and find you have to change the cables in that socket again.

Very good surge strips are made by the German company Brennenstuhl

acctr wrote:

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If the strip breaks you buy a new one and find you have to change the cables in this socket again.

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I want to swap the connection only in the strip in question.

You can make a phase switch for this strip.
Dual-circuit, in one position it feeds L to the right-hand hole, in the other position it feeds N.

But in this skirting board all the sockets share a left-hand hole anyway, so I'll repeat the question: what could be the problem in the receivers if the neutral in the socket is on the left with the earth pin on top?
And I will stress again that I want to use the strip in the workshop/workroom.

It's like, could there be a problem with the operation of the receivers when the N and L in the socket are swapped with PE?

And what problem are you thinking of ?

Daroken wrote:

Could there be a problem with the operation of the receivers when swapping N with L in the socket with PE?

And why should there be a problem?

I once connected a fridge with electronic control with smooth pump control and when I switched L with N in the socket (PE is there too) the fridge started to run quieter. Interestingly, when I switched again, the situation returned. Therefore, I wonder if a different line setting in the socket will have a negative effect on other consumers.

Changing the operation of the fridge solely after swapping the L and N places seems highly unlikely.

Mobali wrote:

Changing the operation of the fridge solely after swapping the L and N places seems very unlikely.

I thought so too, but I changed the configurations several times and each time the situation repeated itself.

Unlikely, unless they have fitted something between the potential from the mains socket and the genset motor, as a starting posistor is out of the question, if a triac control system is a possibility, I have encountered in the prl with lighting intensity controllers where the connection of the so-called phase through the bulb and not zero made a difference.

dzg4 wrote:

the so called phase through the bulb and not zero was relevant.

Well I have just associated the situation:
the less experienced user to replace the bulb just turns off the light with the switch and when the bulb breaks or screws up he can have a "fondling" moment.

But this is probably only with a faulty (w)switch? Possibly at a switch with a backlight? Screw-in automatic fuses are better to unscrew than to trip. That's what the cooperative electrician did when repairing the installation. I don't know if newer automatic fuses need to be removed.
Regarding the standard - phase in left or right hole - it is better to assume there is no standard.