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Hot air station 858 for £150 - what cheap hot air to fly off laptop, computer boards?

p.kaczmarek2 4056 19
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  • Box of Renew Force 858D hot air soldering station. .
    Today I'm testing a classic, budget 858 hot air soldering iron possible to buy for as little as £25-30 often appearing under different versions and names, such as DexXer 700W, or 858D, 858A, etc. I will check if this station is able to solder components from the motherboard at different temperatures and try to measure the resulting temperature at the nozzle output and present it on graphs.

    This topic is sort of a continuation of my tests and measurements related to hot air, here the three previous parts:
    Budget JCD 8908 2 in 1 soldering station (tips + hot air) for £200, VGA HDMI outlet etc .
    Which hot air to buy? Comparison, measurements, graphs - JCD 8908, SP-1011DLR and QUICK 861DW
    Comparison of QUICK 861DW and SUGON 8630 Pro hot air stations - 1kW vs 1.3kW heater
    Test and measurements of the Preciva 995D 810W hot air soldering station - a good choice on a small budget? .

    Here is some information from one of the sellers of this station, specifications:
    Specifications and set of the hot air soldering station DexXer 700W. .
    Now let's look at the contents of the kit:
    Box of a soldering station with nozzle graphics and possible applications. .
    Here we have three basic nozzles with diameters of 3.5mm, 6.5mm and 9mm:
    Set of three metal hot air nozzles in a plastic bag. .
    And, of course, the station - zero extra bits:
    Hot air soldering iron 858 and station on a wooden surface. .
    There is also a flask carrier (I didn't take a photo).
    700W, 5A fuse:
    Nameplate of soldering station 858D/858A. .
    For blowing we have a classic potentiometer, for temperature control we have a 7-segment red display:
    Control panel of a Renew Force hot air soldering station with temperature display. .
    The sleep (detection of the station put down) is realised by a sensor based on the tilt of the flask:
    Close-up of a black hot air soldering iron with a sticker labeled Angle Sensor Voltage 220V. .
    So it's time to move on to testing, but first....


    Organisational matters
    Before we move on to the actual tests, I would like to highlight a few things here:
    - all tests were performed on discs made from electro-waste
    - the video clips do not show the correct methods of desoldering
    - therefore in the videos I do not use kapton tape to protect adjacent components
    - I do not ensure that the component does not "fly away" when blown by hot air
    - the boards on the videos may not be thoroughly washed of flux
    - in the videos I am "impatient" and move parts that should be left alone during the casting process, because if we use force we may break the pads
    - etc. etc.
    The topic "how to replace the MOSFET correctly and wash the board" will be covered separately. Here I am just testing hot air.

    Videotests 858 .
    Time for some experiments. For all the videos below I have made the following assumptions:
    - at the beginning of the video the station is switched off, it is completely cooled down to room temperature, the board similarly
    - 8.4mm nozzle or no nozzle (you can see in the video; yes, that's my nozzle, not any from this kit)
    - highest blow rate, if the specifications are to be believed, 120l/m
    - films are not processed

    Let's start with lower temperatures. 350°C, full blow, TV motherboard:


    .
    Not bad, some memory or other chip in an SO8 can be removed in a minute.

    400°C, full blow, laptop motherboard:


    .
    Here too it went in a minute, it probably would have soldered on a lower temperature too (but a bit slower), even though it's a laptop board, multilayered, with copper spouts, not bad heat pick-up.

    400°C, full blow, computer motherboard:


    .
    Also a minute, not bad, although it's from the edge of the motherboard, I'll try something harder soon.

    450°C, full blow, computer motherboard:


    .
    Not bad, takes the MOSFET off beautifully and that's from a large copper spout.

    450°C, full blow, computer motherboard:


    .
    Not bad, takes off the MOSFET beautifully and that from a large copper spout.

    450°C, full blow, laptop motherboard:


    .


    Drawings .
    Such games of soldering a component out of scrap in time may be fun, but it's also better to measure something. The standard assumption here is to use the highest blowing, although in many cases it could be reduced (then it could also heat a bit harder), but that's the assumption I started with and it's hard to change anymore.
    First a graph at 350°C:
    Graph comparing temperatures and power of various hot air soldering stations. .
    Interactive version:
    https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/version4/350c.html
    However, the feedback that the 858 is a classic and doesn't do badly was true. It even beats the Preciva station here, and interestingly enough, both of these stations claim 120l/m blowing at full setting, but I have not verified this.
    Of course, heating up is about three times slower than in stations 10 times more expensive anyway, but does it make a difference to a beginner?

    Now the graph at 450°C:
    Chart comparing hot air soldering stations at 450°C. .
    Interactive version of the graph:
    https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/version4/450c.html
    Here, however, the station does not beat the 2-3 times more expensive Preciva station. Initially it heats up faster, but then it lacks power. I recorded a maximum of around 380°C. The Preciva reached about 30 degrees more.

    Interior 858 .
    We remove the lid. Surprisingly there is a lot of free space inside, in fact the housing could be much smaller:
    Interior of the 858 hot air soldering station with visible wires and electronic components. .
    The PCB on the front panel contains everything you need - the power supply is there too, a tiny flyback of course:
    Close-up of the interior of a hot air soldering station with a visible PCB. .
    Connector with SDA, SCK and RST and power supply - could it be for programming? Via I2C something?
    Close-up of a PCB with an integrated circuit and capacitors. .
    I think the main MCU is the FMD T3H6GGH:
    Close-up of electronic components on a printed circuit board .
    PCB designation:
    Kasadi
    KSD858DP REV F
    2023-03-24
    Circuit board of the Kasadi KSD858DP REV F soldering station. .
    Executive part, optotriac MOC3023:
    Close-up of electronic components on a green printed circuit board. .
    This optotriac in turn controls the BTA12 800B:
    Image of the inside of a soldering station with visible electronic components. Close-up of the inside of a soldering station with a BTA12 chip and capacitors on a green PCB. .
    And the aforementioned power supply - it is based on the PN8370:
    Close-up of the interior of a 858 soldering station showing electronic components on the PCB. Close-up of the internal part of the hot air 858 station with visible electronic components. .
    Some information about the PN8370, including an overview diagram of such an inverter:
    Page from Chipown's PN8370 technical documentation. .
    I spotted some more circuitry on board which I first thought was an inverter, but it looks like it's a 1S12N06L-D8 MOSFET, maybe an air supply control?
    Close-up of an electronic circuit on a green PCB with a capacitor, inductor, and integrated circuit. .
    A truly modest and economical build.

    Summary .
    With the test criteria I have adopted, this station performs really well. It beats neither the Quick nor the Sugon, but after all, these two stations are practically 10 times more expensive than it! Last time I saw them, they were about £1,400 each, and the one in the topic can be got for about £140. In addition, this station performs much better than my JCD, with which, even after trying with reduced blowing, it was difficult to remove the component from the laptop motherboard without a heater. This station is also better at lower temperatures than the more expensive Preciva, while at higher temperatures it does not heat as much, and all this at (if I trust the manufacturer) a similar blowing setting (120l/m).
    At the moment, my subjective feeling is that this is the best "budget" station for a beginner. It definitely beats e.g. the JCD, where I had problems with heating even with smaller blowing volumes....
    A final small note - I am aware that my test does not examine the actual blowing power. I simply have no way of measuring it, so in my graphs I rely on what the station's manual states. So far, the declared strongest airflows agree, so there is apparently something to compare on the graph, but in practice I don't know how reliable this is. In addition, I pursued this topic some time ago and am only publishing it now, so I no longer have what to do with it... .
    And which hot air station do you guys use? It would be easier for me to get started if I had an 858 straight away and not the flimsy (even at low blow) JCD.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
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    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 11797 posts with rating 9918, helped 563 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21238013
    zlychnet
    Level 8  
    I have one that looks the same on the outside, only with the "Techrebal" logo. Is it the same inside too? I don't know because of the warranty. I also don't have a comparison with other hot air stations. Although, from what I have read the comments under the advertising material on YouTube, the angle sensor for cooling the flask takes away from this station 90% of the use. The other issue is that the station has a fan in the flask and not a compressor in the station itself. Apparently the compressor driven one is much more efficient. These stations are often referred to not as hot air but as plastic welders. Finally, I will write that I bought my station for a hundred and I am very happy with it. I did not want a combined hot air and soldering iron. For small jobs it is enough. With today's electronic components, a soldering iron alone is not enough.
  • #3 21238220
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    zlychnet wrote:
    With today's electronic components, a soldering iron alone is not enough.

    Sometimes you can also try this method:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4012140.html
    Soldering electronic components on a printed circuit board.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #4 21238739
    sq3evp
    Level 37  
    Soldering is also possible, I suppose? I'm just asking because I'm looking for something for occasional use.
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  • #5 21238759
    speedy9
    Helpful for users
    I don't have much experience with hot-air. I have one, in the form of a flask alone, i.e. without an additional housing with power supply. I have soldered something with it. One thing puzzles me: what do you need a large airflow for? If there is less air flow, the air will heat up faster. I usually solder mine on a blowing setting of 2-4 of the 8 available.
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  • #6 21238814
    zlychnet
    Level 8  
    >>21238739 I use it more for desoldering. Soldering can also be done. Instead of a binder in the form of a classic wire, paste is more convenient.
  • #7 21239391
    cysiekw
    Level 42  
    speedy9 wrote:
    One thing puzzles me: what is the high airflow needed for? If it is less, the air heats up faster after all.
    The flow is the "energy carrier", the higher the faster you heat up the board and solder the component which makes a huge difference, heat up the chip 30-50 seconds instead of 120. I myself use the 858d I set the blow rate 7-8 to 10.
  • #8 21239819
    elektryku5
    Level 39  
    I, on the other hand, use a minimum of blowing, firstly the heating is more spot on, secondly when soldering on paste there is less chance of blowing the components off.


    Doesn't this station have the mains voltage pins "exposed"?
  • #9 21239977
    speedy9
    Helpful for users
    elektryku5 wrote:
    I, on the other hand, use a minimum of blowing, firstly the heating is more spot on, secondly with paste soldering there is less chance of blowing the components off.647d3cfaddc .
    I do exactly the same thing. I don't understand this strong puffing. In my opinion it doesn't cause faster heating at all.
  • #10 21240060
    zlychnet
    Level 8  
    speedy9 wrote:
    elektryku5 wrote:
    I, on the other hand, use a minimum of blowing, firstly the heating is more spot on, secondly with paste soldering there is less chance of blowing the components off.
    .
    I do exactly the same thing. I don't understand this strong puffing. In my opinion, it does not cause faster heating at all.

    It is worth checking experimentally and measuring the times for different settings.
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  • #11 21240864
    pepedombo
    Level 11  
    The flow rate is a lotta. Every specification has strange values. Personally I have a Rebel (zd8908) and I borrowed an older 858. The flasks work similarly, except that the ZD has 20l/min and the 858 120l/min :) The ZD tended to heat up better, but I do not remember if I measured the outlet temp. I also had a borrowed hot air tool for welding plastic, something from the 872D+ family on a compressor, I think. There the specs state 24l/min, and even the smallest blow from the compressor seemed to me to be too strong and blew the parts away. I also don't understand the strong blowing - on the 872d I had problems with this, and the models with the fan in the flask are easier to control, but I don't have more comparisons or much experience.
  • #12 21241952
    Gismot
    Level 18  
    The heater in the flask is powered directly via a triac with 230V mains voltage, while the station has a male socket (bare pins with 230V mains potential). In addition, the mains switch disconnects only one pole.
    As far as I am concerned, the device poses an electrical shock hazard to the user.
  • #13 21242329
    lfldp
    Level 10  
    pepedombo wrote:
    With this flow rate, it's a lotta. Every specification gives strange values. Personally I have a Rebel (zd8908) and I have borrowed an older 858. The flasks work similarly, except that the ZD has 20l/min and the 858 120l/min :) The ZD tended to heat up better, but I do not remember if I measured the temperature at the outlets. I also had a borrowed hot air tool for welding plastic, something from the 872D+ family on a compressor, I think. The specs there state 24l/min, and even the smallest blow from the compressor seemed to me to be too strong and blew the parts away. I also don't understand the strong blowing - on the 872D I had problems with this, and the models with a fan in the flask are easier to control, but I have no more comparisons or vast experience.
    Hello These cheap hot-air stations unfortunately have disadvantages with such a low power is poor control over the heated part, moreover after a long time of use the blowing pressure begins to weaken and the station works worse. If you need something more powerful then definitely 1000 - 1200W quick etc. stations. I had to replace the fans in those cheap stations every couple of months on average, a lot of small bga memories were damaged and the pads were torn off when lifting, since I started using a more powerful quick station all the above mentioned problems ended.
  • #14 21243629
    Stefan_2000
    Level 19  
    lfldp wrote:
    If someone needs something more powerful then definitely stations 1000 - 1200W quick etc.
    .
    can you suggest the exact model you are using?
  • #15 21243728
    Oddawajsanki
    Level 7  
    Can you handle this hotair :D ?
  • #16 21243795
    E8600
    Level 41  
    If one learns to use it, it is better and safer than tiring some parts with a soldering iron. As someone already mentioned here high blowing and temperature and it will do the job provided you have a good flux. I have a slightly different one in the form of a laptop power supply, but with me at high temperatures the blowing control starts from 5 to 10 (below 300 there is a blowing control from 1 to 10). You can't expect to solder something at 350 degrees, I usually start at 390-400 and blow 7-8 even with small parts.
  • #17 21252044
    piotrkol7
    Level 39  
    speedy9 wrote:
    I do exactly the same thing. I don't understand this strong blowing. In my opinion, it does not cause faster heating at all.

    BGA chips, chips on motherboards/graphics cards connected to a large ground field. Here a strong blowing is needed as we have a large heat dissipation through the board.

    Another issue is the question of differentiating between the terms "solder-out" and "solder-in". Any heating of the board creates thermal stresses in the board. As an experiment, I suggest you take, for example, an old motherboard, spot heat it at 350-400 degrees and see what happens. It will bend, and not badly.
    The removal of components for recovery can be done with anything, because we do not particularly care about the board.
    Repair - the opposite. That's why it's better to heat with a lower temperature in some cases, but with a higher flow rate. We deliver the same amount of heat to the board, but heat it to a lower temperature, which is crucial because, after all, the coefficient of thermal expansion depends precisely on the temperature.
    That's what heating curves, heaters, and so on and so forth are for....
    I wrote out ;) .
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #18 21252083
    pepedombo
    Level 11  
    It's a known fact that if you want to take something out seriously, it's better to heat it up (I'm leaving out the extra tinning/melting). After the first pc/xbox bangs I improved the heater from a kettle heater, ntc and stm. In an environment where the pcb is 70-90st, the comfort of play and the chance of safe soldering/soldering increases dramatically, whether it's a cheap hot or a cheap soldering iron. I think anyone who has a hot well knows the consequences of the experiment you describe :) .
  • #19 21278600
    lfldp
    Level 10  
    >>21243629 I use QUICK 861DW but probably cheaper Chinese clones of the same power will also be ok.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the performance and usability of budget hot air soldering stations, particularly the 858 model, which is often available for around £25-30. Users share their experiences with various models, highlighting the importance of airflow and temperature control for effective soldering and desoldering. Some participants note that while these budget stations can be sufficient for small jobs, they may lack the power and precision needed for more demanding tasks, leading to issues like poor control over heated components and reduced blowing pressure over time. Comparisons are made with higher-end models like the QUICK 861DW and alternatives such as the Atten ST-862D, which are suggested for better performance. Safety concerns regarding exposed mains voltage pins in cheaper models are also raised, emphasizing the need for caution when using these devices.
Summary generated by the language model.
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