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Is it possible to get a TV to work after a flood? Interior cleaning, repair, photos

p.kaczmarek2 7512 39

TL;DR

  • A flooded Samsung LE32A330J1N TV was dismantled and cleaned after half a day under water to see whether flood-damaged electronics could still be revived.
  • Cleaning focused on silt inside the PCB area, connector legs, ribbons, polarising films, and fluorescent-tube backlight sections, using isopropanol and careful drying.
  • The set was first handled 3 weeks after it was flooded, and the worst trapped moisture was still in the screen grooves and behind the films.
  • A premature test eventually succeeded: VGA produced an image, the satellite tuner gave picture and sound, and the side keypad still worked.
  • The repair remained an experiment, and long-term reliability stayed uncertain because this older model uses a CCFL backlight, not LEDs.
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  • Flood-damaged Samsung TV with visible mud stains on the screen. .
    What does the inside of a TV set flooded look like? Is it still possible to get such a television working? How much work does it take to clean it, how deep is the water able to reach inside? Will a flooded Samsung still work? Let's find out! In this topic, I will just deal with such a TV, model LE32A330J1N.

    The TV was flooded halfway through by water, you can basically see the liquid level in the picture. It was under water for about half a day, the electricity had been switched off earlier, so basically the worst of it had passed. However, it is, of course, all dirty:
    Back of Samsung LE32A330J1N TV with visible dirt from flooding. .
    Silt has settled everywhere, even at the mains connector:
    Power connector of a flood-damaged TV with visible silt deposits.
    Plate:
    Nameplate of Samsung LE32A330J1N TV with technical information.
    I took care of the TV 3 weeks after it was flooded, so it had time to dry out a bit.
    I left the cleaning of the outside for last, however. Let's take a look inside:
    Interior of a Samsung LE32A330J1N TV with visible flood damage. .
    On the face of it, it's not too bad, I checked the coils and ICs for moisture, and most of them have already dried out. Nevertheless, there is still dirt on the PCB:
    Circuit board inside a flooded TV with visible dirt. Flood-damaged Samsung LE32A330J1N TV with visible dirt on the circuit board. .
    I cleaned the circuit legs with isopropanol, removed the ribbons:
    Close-up of a PCB inside a Samsung LE32A330J1N TV. Close-up of a dirty integrated circuit and circuit board in a Samsung TV. Close-up of a dirty circuit board inside a television. .
    I also checked the other side of the tiles:
    Printed circuit board with dirt in a flooded television. .
    For the other tiles the same.
    Unfortunately access was not good everywhere, but at least the electronics from the matrix can be accessed:
    Interior of a flood-damaged TV showing electronic components and mud. .
    I then removed the plastic frame at the front. Inside were another supply of dried silt:
    Dirty interior of a flooded TV. .
    I then unscrewed the metal frame holding the matrix. Behind the matrix are still the polarising films and the backlight - here fluorescent tubes.
    Dirty television screen after flooding. .
    I cleaned the plates from the matrix:
    Damaged circuit board inside a flooded television. Close-up of the inside of a water-damaged TV showing dirt on the PCB and ribbon cable. Dirty circuit board from a flood-damaged TV. Flood-damaged circuit board interior in a television. Flood-damaged circuit board interior in a television. Close-up of a dirty circuit board with silt deposits after flooding. Close-up of a dirtied circuit board inside a television. .
    I then indulged in something slightly against the art - a premature test. I simply wanted to know if there was any point in playing at all. I just made sure that I was sure the moisture was removed from all the PCBs:
    Television with an open casing displaying static noise. .
    It works, but there is moisture under the die. So we remove the die:
    Interior of a TV screen showing moisture marks .
    Dirt can also be removed from it:
    Close-up of a hand holding a part on the side of a flooded TV. .
    You can see the patterns from the moisture, the films hold water:
    Lower part of the plastic frame of a flood-damaged TV with visible sediment and dirt. Image of a flooded TV screen with visible sediment and moisture stains. .
    I took off the plastic "sides" so I could remove the foils. Even there the water arrived:
    Dirt and silt deposits on the inner frame of a flooded TV. .
    You can already see the attachment of the fluorescent tubes:
    Interior of a flooded TV with visible sediment and water remnants. .
    With a powerful LED lamp I dried and washed the films:
    Moisture under the TV screen after flooding. Moisture patterns and dirt on the TV screen. .
    Interior of a TV with visible traces of moisture and dirt, illuminated by a strong LED light. .
    I got as far as the fluorescent tubes, where I also removed the moisture. The worst part was the grooves at the top and bottom of the screen, there was literally still water there.
    Dirty tissue against the background of a damaged television. Dirtied back cover of a television after flooding .
    Time for another test:
    TV screen displaying a volume adjustment bar against a background of static. Samsung TV with static on screen during post-flood test. Close-up of a TV screen with static and artifacts. .
    But will it pick up any signal? This is where there was a bit of a problem, because. the connectors didn't make contact and also had to be flushed with IPA in them.
    TV screen displaying the source selection menu.
    But with VGA it was possible to move:
    Image of a TV screen displaying a website about electronics. Television screen displaying a webpage with technical articles. Close-up of a TV screen displaying a website with a discussion forum about televisions. .
    Then I also checked with the sat tuner - there is picture and there is sound, a complete success!
    Image of coffee advertisement displayed on Samsung LE32A330J1N TV. Samsung TV displaying an Eduscho coffee advertisement. .
    For the record, I should add that the keypad on the side of the TV also works, so I can navigate the menu, change the signal source, etc....
    Samsung TV model LE32A330J1N displaying a television program.
    Now all that's left to do is to summarise...
    Was it worth it?
    Well, for such an old model of TV, this was just an experiment rather than a major repair. Anyway, it was evident in the subject line,
    that this is still a CCFL-based backlight model, not LEDs. In addition, I don't know if there won't be any further problems with this unit after a while, although it has been drying for a good three weeks. We'll see.
    Apart from that, it's still worth bearing in mind the risks of flood water. I did my best to disinfect and clean the entire housing, just as I did to wash my hands after all the work, but even so, I would not urge anyone to repeat my experience.
    However, in terms of cleaning the TV itself, the biggest problem was with the polarisers/diffusers behind the matrix which held moisture. You have to know how to take the whole thing apart and then put it back together again. The matrix is quite a sensitive component, one tap and all the fun is gone. I was also surprised that there was still literally water in the grooves (behind the films).
    In any case - you can. Have you already made similar repairs, or do you scrap all flooded equipment straight away?

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14567 posts with rating 12578, helped 654 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21254492
    klm787
    Level 37  
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Was it worth it?
    .
    Great respect for your approach to the matter.
    For such a repair :D .
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  • #3 21254498
    gulson
    System Administrator
    Posts: 29329
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    Amazing report! So practical... So that your neighbours don't start dropping off various flooded RTVs ;) now.
    And probably the number goes into the thousands.

    What saddens and worries me is how water can penetrate heavily into electronics and appliances in general.
    Dirt everywhere.
    Sad because I've seen quite a lot of specialised equipment flooded in pictures, including a CT scanner.
    Dental, dermatology surgeries etc.
    Who would risk firing up a CT scanner and continuing to use it on a human being? Well....
  • #4 21254516
    Ture11
    Level 39  
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Have you already carried out similar repairs, or do you scrap all flooded equipment straight away though?
    .

    This year's floods (oh, I sympathise strongly with my colleague) may have pushed my curiosity to try to repair something flooded - or at least look inside. My mistake was to buy car audio equipment after flooding - I simply assumed that, in the event of flooding, any short-circuit on the main board would cause the inverters to "go stupid" almost immediately and damage "something" plus themselves, thus blowing the main fuse . Well, unfortunately - as it turned out, such equipment is live all the time - and which exact components get the voltage - this I determined by the circuits that were missing leads due to electrochemical corrosion :D .


    In my case, the radio (from a Tucson, 2015) was unlikely to be from this year's flood, which doesn't change the fact that after washing the motherboard - it would probably work (better or worse). Condition - it would have had to have had no power from the first seconds. And it probably had power until the battery died.

    Many photos I don't have, but it was roughly covered that nicely:
    Interior of a rusted audio device with visible signs of corrosion. .

    Surprisingly, after washing, it turned out that the I.MX6 processor and its memories were in pretty good shape - the insulating varnish was doing the job. All the flex tapes had signs of corrosion, but none had corroded to the point of being unusable. Unfortunately, one of the inverters from the I.MX - the one that reliably applied voltage all the time - fell off completely when washing the board. The previously mentioned legs of almost all the mosfets in the power supply also fell off.

    Of course, nothing could be done about it. Maybe with a schematic it would have worked, but without - chapel.

    And the amplifier cube circuit also lost one, but only one leg - the rest was in perfect condition :D .

    Oh, the fan works - as the one thing that survived on this board.
  • #5 21254527
    gulson
    System Administrator
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    Generally, if one has the time, buying previously disconnected equipment after a flood and not running, for a few per cent of the value, is not a stupid idea.
    In a car, however, it is always the voltage that is applied....
  • #6 21254536
    Ture11
    Level 39  
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    Let me ask you one more thing... How about the CNC3040? Was there a lot of effort to bring it back to life? - Or is it not yet known?
  • #7 21254612
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    gulson wrote:
    now the neighbours haven't started dropping off various flooded RTVs
    .
    I would seriously love to showcase some more flooded equipment on the forum, but alas.... my "storage" rooms have all been flooded with water up to the ceiling and are now emptied to 0, even of furniture, and awaiting further cleaning and disinfection. At the moment there is one complete blockage in the flat and no possibility to store anything.

    And literally 100kg has already gone for scrap.... Only pre-cleaned of plastic. So much so, you know, I evacuated most of the more valuable stuff before the wave, only the less valuable stuff and the stuff on the top shelves that I thought wouldn't flood remained (I didn't expect that 60cm above ground level water or whatever it was)

    I kept the most important ones, e.g. here my poor unreviewed 3000F supercapacitors:
    Damaged cardboard boxes with flooded supercapacitors in a room. AVX 3000F supercapacitor next to USB Doctor meter .
    Pictured above, the USB Doctor is for scale.

    And here, too, is the yet-to-be-described CNC kit (on the top shelf):
    Exposed brick wall with scattered, damaged cables and paper.
    @Ture11 I haven't yet moved the CNC kit beyond a basic rinse, dry out, because there's simply nowhere to put it together. Time is also unlikely...

    But that's just a little offtopic, and as for the flooded equipment itself, maybe something else will come up on the forum, but not much. Maybe some attempt at power tools.

    There will also be some disassembly without repair in "Inside Appliances", for example I had to scrap two Alfawise air purifiers, of which I only kept the WiFi module boards.

    There were also flooded CRTs but due to the size they were immediately scrapped:
    Flooded room with various items covered in mud and sludge. Old CRT device in a flooded room filled with mud and debris. .
    And I was planning to play with their head unit, in these newer ones it is via I2C controlled, maybe something could be picked up with it, I don't know....

    This is what a room like this looks like after flooding (and the photo shows bad practice - no gloves - but we didn't get them in the gifts until the next day...):
    Flooded storage area with water pouring from a plastic container held by a person. Plastic containers covered in dirt and mud after flooding. .
    It's not just water, it's sludge, slime, everything dirty, furniture dislodged.
    Old laptops and thermatransfer iron, I didn't play with that either, I deleted it straight away:
    Hand holding flooded electronic equipment in a destroyed and flooded room. Rusty iron on a wooden shelf. .
    This car also "went", and there were plans to convert it to RF 433 or ESP:
    A flooded room with damaged equipment, including a red toy car and a container full of electronic parts.
    Furniture deletion:
    Cabinet with damaged doors and a hammer on the shelf.

    So in general I have left very little stuff myself. Here, as if to back up my words, a photo from today - what is happening on the boards e.g. behind the extensions even though the water was only there for 6 hours:
    Power strip soiled with silt. Dirty power strip on a damaged wooden surface covered with mold. Close-up of a countertop covered with mold and dirt after a flood. .
    The sanitary hazard is as real as can be and this needs to be borne in mind with any experiments with flooded equipment.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #8 21254712
    Energy_freak
    Level 2  
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    >>21254476 >>21254476 Was it worth it - yes worth it to show that you can fix equipment that no one will spend time on. Super presentation. Is it financially worth it - yes - you won't pay for the TV, yes - we won't pay for rubbish disposal. Will there be problems - yes - they will manifest themselves over time :-) .
  • #9 21254862
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
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    @p.kaczmarek2 I thought you wouldn't save the TV because water and silt would get into every tiny crevice.
    Respect for your thoroughness and patience while working.
    Was it worth it?
    We'll see in a few days.

    My sympathies for the loss of your property.
  • #10 21254984
    tomekptk
    Level 19  
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    After the 1997 flood I tried to salvage flooded computer equipment including HP laser printers. Except that this equipment had been underwater for longer, completely flooded, although unplugged, because in storage. Unfortunately, the 'water' that goes with flooding is actually a mixture of various contaminants and often aggressive chemicals. In the case of printers, where there is precision mechanics, I quickly gave up on 'repair' seeing the effects of 'water' penetration. On top of this, the printed circuit paths are already scarred. It makes me wonder how long this salvaged equipment will last? I do not believe in the complete removal of the aggressive deposit, which, probably combined with the moisture present in the air, will continue to cause corrosion in unseen places. Nevertheless, respect for your colleague's determination in rescuing the equipment.
  • #11 21255016
    keseszel
    Level 26  
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    Son was refurbishing a Philips TV after a fire . TV smoked (you could see on the screen) and flooded with fire extinguishing agent. It was disassembled and dusted. It worked for a few months. Then lines appeared on the matrix, then it started to shut down. Eventually it went for the rest.
  • #12 21255214
    gulson
    System Administrator
    Posts: 29329
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    Not very optimistic. But right, it's not tap water, it's carrying the neighbour's septic tank, for example.
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  • #13 21255254
    krzysiek7
    Moderator of Electricians group
    Posts: 4848
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    I have not been in contact with electronics after such a flood, so it is difficult to judge. I only once rescued a car radio panel that had been drowned in water with some washing up liquid, but to save it I gave it a quick bath in denatured alcohol. The panel has worked flawlessly for a few years now, but that hardly compares to what this TV has been through.
    On the other hand, I have quite a lot of experience in rescuing submerged electric motors, here drying, varnishing the windings and replacing the bearings brings the motor back to normal. I myself have a motor that stood all submerged in the flood that was with us in 1979. It has been running for 45 years after such treatment.
    I also have a dental compressor flooded in some basement,
    and later stood under a cloud, I got it for free. It's been working for about 20 years now.
    That's just what's at my place, and there was a lot of it for customers. Even this year I had a dozen or so pieces to dry.
    As for the electronics, I think drying and cleaning time is important, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
  • #14 21255577
    CMS
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    I once rescued (several, or even a dozen years ago) a projector of someone from us on the forum. It was also post-flood. Everything inside was covered with a beige-brown deposit. It was a lot of work. It had to be taken apart and washed with soap and water, then dried, washed again in isopropanol, dried again and heated up at 150°C. For those times, it was too expensive. For those times, I earned enough to make it worthwhile, but I don't think I would take on such a job today, because in the time I spent on this repair, I could earn several times more. The most important thing is that the projector hasn't come back and I haven't had any indication that there is anything wrong with it.
  • #15 21255659
    Jacekser
    Level 26  
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Have you done similar repairs, or do you scrap all your flooded equipment straight away?
    When I was servicing office equipment: fax machines, telephones, exchanges (after being flooded with coffee, tea, coca-cola (after being flooded with coffee, tea, coca-cola)?
    When I was running a service centre, I sometimes had to repair office equipment: fax machines, telephones, PBXs (after being flooded in the neighbourhood), after being flooded with coffee, tea or coca-cola (after which they were 100% scrap metal). As a rule, cleaning with warm water and denatured alcohol and sometimes some detergent helped. It was important that the device was not electrically energised afterwards or did not contain any internal sources (batteries, accumulators), because then there would be scorching or greater damage. I sometimes placed boards with electronics in several such water baths and it was possible to save the equipment, although not always. I was very fond of housewives "wiping" TV sets with a wet cloth. Sometimes there was a duplicator to work on, and sometimes the buttons of the local keyboard burned out after contact with water. I serviced HICOM system telephones (mainly system telephones). The ones from the Coca-Cola plant in Żerań were beyond repair. This "rust remover" effectively etched the copper of the boards, so that there was not even anything to solder to! The most 'enjoyable' was the repair of peed electronics after rodents. Bug, yuck! But there were also those - the customer cried, but paid! I did not rescue equipment after a flood, but more often industrial equipment with forced water cooling. As a rule, with success.
  • #16 21255672
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #17 21255677
    Jacekser
    Level 26  
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    ledo99 wrote:
    dry with alcohol (azeotrope of water and alcohol)...
    .
    Oh, I forgot to write about this. It pulls out nested water well and of course blowing with air, sometimes overnight on a warm radiator.
    The cells that fell into my toilet when I peed I mention only because once it was enough to quickly remove the battery from it, wash with water and dry on the radiator, they worked without a problem. Now the battery is usually permanently sealed and if it is not IP65 it is a problem.
  • #18 21255812
    kris8888
    Level 41  
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    krzysiek7 wrote:
    However, I have quite a lot of experience in rescuing sunken electric motors, here drying, varnishing the windings and replacing the bearings brings the motor back to normal. I myself have a motor that stood all sunken in the flood that was with us in 1979. After such treatment it has been running for 45 years
    .
    For me, a long time ago, a three-phase squirrel cage motor from a hydrofoil that was mounted in the basement of the house flooded twice. I was amazed that an electrician-mechanic friend was able to restore such a motor to full working order without any problems.
    But such a motor is not delicate electronics.

    A few years ago, however, I flooded some electronic equipment in my basement with a mixture of water and fuel oil. It was some measuring equipment, control modules and a desktop computer. I managed to restore a good part of it, but not all of it. The most affected were all the buttons on the conductive rubber bands, LCD displays, rubber casing parts and, unfortunately, some vias on the circuit boards.

    However, I am surprised that the author managed to get this Samsung working. I recently transported an old Panasonic LCD TV, it was raining heavily, I seem to have protected it well, but somehow moisture got into the matrix and after some time a specific corrosion of the matrix took place (vertical, irregular black lines appeared on the picture). No longer salvageable. I even posted pictures of this damage here on the electrode somewhere.
    Specifically in this thread: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3927288.html#20251006
  • #19 21255917
    LEDówki
    Level 43  
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    Coca cola is a lot of acid though and a good electrolyte. Dishwasher pad salt,powder is an alkali, so there will be conditions for corrosion. Dishwashing liquid is also an alkali, so it falls off.
    The washed pendrive was dry inside. After dismantling, reassembling and re-washing, it has already become wet. A week on the radiator and it's been running for over 10 years without a problem.
    However, the telephone exchange stored under a cloud did not want to work well.
  • #20 21255946
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #21 21255995
    flinc
    Level 30  
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    @p_ kaczmarek 2 Wrap the PCB modules prophylactically with aluminium foil e.g. for roasting poultry and dry in the oven
  • #22 21256147
    żarówka rtęciowa
    Level 38  
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    Hello

    In order to get rid of the moisture, drying can be done in a sealed container with calcium chloride placed in it....
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  • #23 21256690
    klamocik
    Level 36  
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    I had such adventures after the Jaslo was flooded, even dried out when switched on they would shoot up but a day in the water and then a specific shower, drying, rescued them.
  • #24 21256828
    michas
    Level 23  
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    Referring to the subject of the TV in question, it's a wonder that the inverter trays of the fluorescent tube inverters haven't shot.
    I would assume that the first thing to fly during use would be one of these traffiers.

    Regards
    Michal
  • #25 21256864
    LEDówki
    Level 43  
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    What is an inverter inverter, or inverter inverter trafo?
  • #26 21257149
    michas
    Level 23  
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    High-voltage trafo which supplies the fluorescent lamp. As there are a couple of fluorescent lamps, there are also a couple of traffic, as can be seen on the inverter block.

    It was supposed to be "inverters or converters", whatever you call it, sometimes it is called ballast, but it is more for xenon lamps in projectors.


    Greetings
    M
  • #27 21257295
    LEDówki
    Level 43  
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    Ballast is a choke and the name is also applied to fluorescent lamps. Precision of language is useful for efficient communication. Sometimes it is difficult to deduce from colloquial gibberish what something should be called. This sticking together of inverter and inverter was puzzling, but has now been clarified.
  • #28 21258428
    tatanka
    Level 21  
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    Car electronics after the floods are a drama and a boomerang.
    Hardly anyone disconnects the battery, everything rots.
    You can use a pickaxe to remove the mud
  • #29 21259965
    kiss39
    Level 39  
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    gulson wrote:
    And probably the number goes into the thousands.
    Let's not let the Chinese etc make money.


    I would lean towards selling branded laptops, audio etc repairable ie with documentation available and try to salvage. Ludwik dishwashing liquid , garden pressure washer 1-2L , soft bristle brush set, hair dryer to heat PCB and plastic parts to evaporate water, distilled water, IPA alcohol, compressor to blow air out.

    Beware of transformers, coils, these components should be avoided, dismantled and not washed, because in their coils a small amount of water can lead to a short circuit.

    Person using an orange pressure sprayer on flowers in a garden. .
  • #30 21260490
    nostromo
    Level 15  
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    Well done, I brought a Ferroli Divatech cooker, two Grundfos pumps, garage door and gate controls into service for flood victims I know. I used almost 3 litres of Isopropanol. A terribly stubborn job and time-consuming. But it had to be helped. The appliances were rescued, without too much trouble, as the power had been cut off before flooding. A colleague managed to salvage two TVs with LED matrices. I am waiting for some information on how the supply of these TVs went after the flooding. Respect to all those who are helping the flood victims.

    Added after 6 [minutes]: .

    >>21258428 You are right. A friend gave me some modules from a flooded car (battery not disconnected). Mogul. In several places, very thin tracks, they were simply digested.

    Added after 1 [minute]: .

    >>21258428 You are right. A friend gave me some modules from a flooded car (battery not disconnected). Mogul. In several places, very thin tracks, they were simply digested.
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Topic summary

✨ Dyskusja dotyczy możliwości uruchomienia telewizora Samsung model LE32A330J1N po zalaniu wodą. Użytkownik przedstawia zdjęcia wnętrza telewizora, które było zanurzone w wodzie przez około pół dnia. Wiele odpowiedzi koncentruje się na problemach związanych z penetracją wody do elektroniki, zanieczyszczeniami oraz metodami czyszczenia. Uczestnicy dzielą się doświadczeniami w naprawie sprzętu po zalaniach, podkreślając, że czasami możliwe jest przywrócenie do życia uszkodzonych urządzeń, ale często wiąże się to z ryzykiem korozji i długotrwałymi problemami. Wskazują na znaczenie odłączenia zasilania przed zalaniem oraz na różne metody czyszczenia, takie jak użycie izopropanolu i suszenie na ciepło. Wiele osób wyraża szacunek dla wysiłków w ratowaniu sprzętu, mimo że nie zawsze jest to opłacalne.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After 3 weeks of drying, one flood-soaked Samsung LE32A330J1N still worked because the owner fully stripped it and found that "there was literally still water in the grooves" behind the panel films. This FAQ helps repairers judge whether a flooded LCD TV is salvageable, how to clean it safely, and where hidden moisture remains longest. [#21254476]

Why it matters: Floodwater reaches far beyond the visible waterline, so a TV that looks dry outside can still hide conductive sludge, trapped moisture, and delayed corrosion.

Option What the thread shows Main risk Best use case
Plain water + distilled/deionized rinse Good for flushing heavy mud, sewage residue, and detergent remnants Residual water stays trapped in crevices Very dirty, sludge-covered boards and connectors
IPA + compressed air Good final-stage drying and contact cleaning Can miss hidden pockets under films or BGAs Final rinse, connectors, ribbon sockets, spot cleaning
Do nothing beyond surface drying Outer parts may look dry after weeks Hidden water remains behind films and in grooves Never sufficient after flood immersion

Key insight: The hardest part is not the main PCB. The real danger is moisture and silt trapped behind the LCD matrix, diffuser stack, connectors, and grooves near the CCFL tubes, where water can remain for weeks after the cabinet looks dry.

Quick Facts

  • The TV sat flooded to roughly half its height for about half a day, with power already disconnected before immersion. [#21254476]
  • The successful repair attempt began 3 weeks after flooding, yet water still remained behind the panel films and in the upper and lower screen grooves. [#21254476]
  • One forum estimate put flood-repair labor at 4–10 hours × 150 PLN, plus about 50 PLN in materials, before transport and with no warranty certainty. [#21261101]
  • A projector salvage case required washing, IPA cleaning, drying, and heating to 150°C; the repair was judged viable only because the projector was expensive at the time. [#21255577]
  • A phone recovered from sewage was dried on a heated aluminum plate at about 45°C for 3 hours, then left until the next day before reassembly. [#21260791]

How do you clean and dry a flood-damaged Samsung LE32A330J1N TV step by step without destroying the LCD matrix or diffuser films?

You must fully strip it, clean every contaminated layer, and reassemble carefully. 1. Remove the back, boards, ribbons, front bezel, and metal frame, then clean PCB legs and sockets with IPA. 2. Lift the LCD matrix carefully, remove the diffuser and polarizing films, and dry both the films and the grooves near the CCFL tubes. 3. Test only after every board and film stack is dry, then flush any bad-contact connectors again. The thread’s successful repair started 3 weeks after flooding and still found trapped water behind the films. [#21254476]

Why does moisture stay trapped under the LCD diffuser and polarizing films for weeks after a TV has already dried on the outside?

Moisture stays trapped because the film stack and panel grooves hold water by capillary action and block airflow. In the Samsung case, the cabinet had dried for 3 weeks, yet the owner still saw moisture patterns under the films and found literal water in the top and bottom grooves behind them. Those layers dry far slower than exposed boards or the outer housing. Once water reaches that stack, surface dryness tells you almost nothing about the internal state of the display assembly. [#21254476]

What is CCFL backlighting, and how does it change the repair risks compared with newer LED-backlit TVs after flooding?

"CCFL backlighting is a display-lighting system that uses cold-cathode fluorescent tubes behind the LCD panel, with high-voltage drive parts and deeper mechanical layers than many LED sets." In this thread, the repaired Samsung was explicitly noted as a CCFL-based model, not LED. That matters because the repair reached the fluorescent tube area and the grooves around it, where water still remained after weeks. A later comment also noted that a colleague had separately salvaged two LED-matrix TVs, showing the risk pattern is different, not absent. [#21254476]

What is a ballast or inverter transformer in a CCFL TV, and why are these high-voltage parts a concern after water damage?

"A ballast or inverter transformer is a high-voltage transformer that powers CCFL backlight tubes, usually with one or more transformers on the inverter board for multiple lamps." These parts matter after flooding because trapped moisture or contamination in high-voltage sections can cause later arcing, shorting, or intermittent failure even when the TV first powers on. One commenter was surprised the Samsung’s fluorescent-lamp inverter transformers had not already failed. Another warned that coils and transformers should be avoided during washing because trapped water inside windings can later cause shorts. [#21259965]

Which cleaning method works better for flooded electronics: plain water plus distilled or deionized rinse, or direct cleaning with IPA and compressed air?

The better method depends on how much mud or residue the flood left behind. Heavy contamination needs a flush-first approach: plain water to remove sludge, then distilled or deionized water, then IPA and air for drying. For lighter contamination or contact areas, IPA and compressed air work well as a final-stage method. Several replies favored that sequence, because IPA alone does not always remove flood sludge, detergent, or sewage residue. The Samsung repair itself used IPA heavily on legs, ribbons, and sockets after mechanical disassembly. [#21255672]

Why do flooded connectors, ribbon cables, and VGA or tuner sockets stop making contact even when the TV powers up?

They stop making contact because oxide, silt, and residue remain on the contact surfaces after the main boards dry. In the Samsung case, the TV powered up before all input functions returned, and the connectors still needed flushing with IPA because they did not make contact. After cleaning, VGA worked, and then the satellite tuner also delivered picture and sound. That pattern shows a flood-damaged TV can have separate power and signal-path faults at the same time. [#21254476]

How far can flood water and silt travel inside an LCD TV, including behind the panel films and into the grooves near the fluorescent tubes?

Flood water can travel through nearly the whole lower display assembly, not just onto the main board. In this case, silt appeared on the mains connector, PCB surfaces, front frame area, matrix-side boards, behind the LCD matrix, under the diffuser and polarizing films, and in the grooves near the fluorescent tubes. The owner explicitly wrote that water had reached even the side areas used to remove the films. The practical takeaway is simple: if the cabinet flooded halfway, contamination may still extend into hidden optical layers. [#21254476]

What signs tell you a flooded TV is worth attempting to save, and what signs mean it should be scrapped immediately?

A flooded TV is worth trying when power was cut before immersion, corrosion has not eaten tracks away, and the panel survives a careful first test. The Samsung had been unplugged before the flood and later recovered picture, sound, tuner control, and side-key operation. Scrap is the safer choice when electrochemical corrosion has already removed leads or thin tracks, when hidden residue remains aggressive, or when the matrix has developed irreversible lines. Several replies described later failures such as matrix lines, shutdowns, and corrosion continuing in unseen places. [#21254984]

How does leaving power connected during a flood change the damage pattern in car electronics compared with unplugged home equipment?

Leaving power connected turns contamination into active electrochemical damage almost immediately. One car-audio case described equipment that stayed live until the battery died, and the owner identified powered circuits by the component leads that had vanished through corrosion. By contrast, several successful home-equipment rescues depended on mains power being cut before flooding. A commenter summarized the car problem directly: in vehicles, voltage is always present somewhere, so flooded modules often emerge with digested thin tracks and far worse board damage. [#21254516]

Why are BGA chips and capillary-trapped moisture such a problem when drying water-damaged PCBs?

BGA packages are a problem because water hides underneath them and escapes slowly. A thread reply stated that the worst places are under BGA parts, where moisture gets trapped by capillary action and may need compressed air or alcohol-assisted drying to remove it. Surface dryness is not enough, because water can remain in tiny gaps while the rest of the board looks clean. That is the same failure mechanism seen in the TV’s film stack and grooves: narrow spaces trap liquid long after accessible areas seem dry. [#21255672]

What drying methods are people using for flooded electronics, such as warm-air drying, oven heating, calcium chloride in a sealed box, or radiator drying, and what are the risks of each?

People used warm air, radiator drying, low-temperature plate heating, oven heating, and desiccant drying, but each carries a different risk. One phone was heated at about 45°C for 3 hours on an aluminum plate. Another repairer heated a projector to 150°C after washing. Others suggested overnight radiator drying or calcium chloride in a sealed box. The risk rises with temperature and poor control: plastics, adhesives, films, and trapped residues may degrade, while uneven heating can miss water in windings, BGAs, or panel layers. [#21255577]

How should transformers, coils, and inductors be handled after a flood if trapped water inside the windings could later cause shorts?

Treat them as suspect parts, because water can remain inside the windings even after the outside looks dry. One reply explicitly warned to avoid washing transformers and coils and, if possible, remove them instead, because even a small amount of trapped water can later cause a short. Another commenter expected the Samsung’s CCFL inverter transformers to be among the first parts likely to fail later. In practice, these parts need extra drying time, targeted inspection, and zero trust in a quick power-up result. [#21259965]

What long-term failures tend to appear after a flooded TV seems repaired, such as matrix lines, corrosion in hidden places, or intermittent shutdowns?

The common long-term failures are matrix lines, hidden corrosion, bad contacts, and shutdown faults that appear later. One reply described a TV restored after fire-extinguisher exposure that worked for a few months, then developed matrix lines and later began shutting down. Another commenter doubted flood residue can ever be fully removed from hidden places, warning that corrosion may continue with normal air moisture. Even the Samsung success story included caution that later problems might still emerge despite 3 weeks of drying and a complete initial recovery. [#21255016]

How much work does it usually take to restore flood-damaged equipment like TVs, projectors, pumps, or office electronics, and when does the repair stop making economic sense?

It usually takes hours of dirty, repetitive labor, and it stops making sense once labor exceeds the item’s replacement value. One commenter priced typical work at 4–10 hours × 150 PLN, plus about 50 PLN in materials, before transport and with no guaranteed result. Another repairer said a projector rescue was worthwhile only because the projector was expensive then; today, the same hours could earn several times more elsewhere. The Samsung TV was treated as an experiment, not a normal commercial repair, because it was an older CCFL model. [#21261101]

What happened with the flooded CNC3040 kit, and what steps are still needed beyond a basic rinse and drying before it can be tested safely?

The CNC3040 kit was not repaired yet; it only received a basic rinse and drying. The owner said there was still nowhere to assemble it and no time to continue. Before safe testing, it still needs complete inspection, proper assembly space, and likely deeper cleaning and verification of each module rather than a blind power-up. That matters because the same author showed fresh corrosion on other flooded boards even after only about 6 hours of water exposure, proving that delayed damage can keep developing after the first rinse. [#21254612]
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