FAQ
TL;DR: The simplest fix is a timed smart socket/relay that runs the DHW circulator for 30–120 seconds; “Usually 1–2 mins is enough.” Set up wall buttons in two rooms to trigger the timer without a phone. [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
Why it matters:** It cuts standby heat losses while giving on‑demand hot water from multiple locations, phone‑free, with predictable runtimes.
Quick Facts
- Typical on‑demand runtime: 30–120 s; add a 2‑minute lockout to prevent short‑cycling. [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
- Wi‑Fi smart relays/sockets (Tuya ecosystem) plus battery wall buttons enable phone‑free control in multiple rooms. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704233]
- RF smart plug kits with handheld remotes exist; look for 230 V, 16 A ratings for pump loads. [Elektroda, 78db78, post #21704251]
- Continuous circulation can spike energy use; time‑limited triggers reduce waste versus always‑on schedules. [Elektroda, Tombo55, post #21704994]
- Pipe insulation and sensor placement affect perceived heat‑up; walls cool faster than exposed runs. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704258]
What’s the best way to switch a circulator from two rooms without using a phone?
Use a smart socket or relay that supports timed mono‑stable operation and pair it with two battery wall buttons. Each press starts a 30–120 second run, then auto‑off. Choose a Tuya‑compatible socket and two Tuya buttons; mount buttons like wall switches in the bathroom and kitchen. This gives quick, predictable hot water without app use. “Usually 1–2 mins is enough.” [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
Are there smart sockets with remote controls (no smartphone needed)?
Yes. RF smart plug kits include a 230 V/16 A plug‑in socket and paired remotes. You press the handheld remote to start or stop power to the circulator. These avoid Wi‑Fi and apps entirely, ideal for simple phone‑free control. Verify the socket’s current rating matches your pump’s draw. [Elektroda, 78db78, post #21704251]
How do I set a fixed run time, like 3 minutes?
Pick a socket or relay with a mono timer. Configure a scene or parameter for a 180‑second pulse. Trigger it from a wall button; the output energizes the pump, then turns off automatically. Many users find 60–120 seconds sufficient, but 3 minutes is workable too. [Elektroda, Tombo55, post #21704887]
What timer values do people actually use for DHW recirculation?
Field experience points to short pulses: 30 seconds at one site with a forced 2‑minute pause, and commonly 60–120 seconds elsewhere. Short runs limit losses while delivering hot water quickly. Quote: “Usually 1–2 mins is enough.” [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
Will periodic circulation really save energy versus always-on schedules?
Yes. Always‑on or long schedules keep pipes hot and lose heat continuously. A user saw much higher consumption with daytime circulation active, then reduced use after disabling it. Timed, on‑demand runs cut standby losses substantially. [Elektroda, Tombo55, post #21704994]
What is Tuya and why choose it here?
Tuya is a smart‑home ecosystem covering Wi‑Fi/Zigbee relays, sockets, and battery wall buttons. In this thread, it’s suggested because you can pair sockets with wireless buttons and program auto‑off runtimes, achieving phone‑free, room‑based triggers. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704233]
Do I need a hub for Tapo S200B buttons or Shelly buttons to trigger a socket?
Ecosystems differ. Some button‑to‑socket pairings need a hub; others pair directly or via Wi‑Fi. The thread notes choosing between Shelly socket + buttons or TP‑Link Tapo socket + S200B buttons, with hub needs to be checked for the exact kit you pick. [Elektroda, Tombo55, post #21705714]
How can motion sensors automate circulator runs?
Tie a motion detector to a mono output that energizes a relay or smart socket for 30–120 seconds. Existing alarm PIRs (e.g., Satel Integra) work well; wireless options exist too. This delivers hot water as you enter the room without pressing a button. [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
Is a fixed-interval timer (every 30 minutes) a good idea?
It’s convenient but increases losses when no one draws water. Experts in the thread prefer on‑demand activation via buttons or motion, keeping runs brief. That balances comfort and energy use better than periodic cycling. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704233]
What electrical rating should the smart socket meet for a circulator?
Choose hardware rated for 230 V AC and at least 16 A switching capacity to provide margin for motor inrush. Many RF smart plug kits advertise 16 A; verify the label and documentation before use. [Elektroda, 78db78, post #21704251]
Can pipe insulation or sensor placement affect results?
Yes. Pipes buried in walls can cool faster than exposed sections, confusing pipe‑mounted temperature control. If a sensor reads warmer than water at the tap, you’ll run the pump longer than necessary. On‑demand timers avoid that pitfall. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704258]
What’s an easy 3-step setup for two-room control?
- Install a Tuya‑compatible smart socket or relay for the pump and set auto‑off to 60–120 seconds.
- Pair two Tuya battery buttons and mount them in the bathroom and kitchen.
- Create a scene: button press → socket ON (timer) → auto‑OFF. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21704233]
Could the heat pump’s own power skew my savings estimate?
Yes. Seasonal changes alter heating demand and COP. Compare like‑for‑like modes and months, or use sub‑metering focused on DHW with and without circulation enabled to isolate the circulator’s impact. [Elektroda, virtualmachine, post #21705022]
Any failure modes to watch for with button-triggered runs?
Avoid rapid re‑triggers. Add a short lockout (e.g., 2 minutes) to prevent cycling and pump overheating. If using RF remotes, replace coin cells as needed to maintain range and reliability. [Elektroda, panzewsi, post #21705043]
Why do some prefer on‑demand despite convenience trade-offs?
On‑demand limits heat loss and electricity waste compared to periodic or always‑on circulation. Users reported higher consumption when circulation ran long hours, pushing them to short, triggered runs from rooms that need hot water. [Elektroda, Tombo55, post #21704994]
Is coupling the circulator to lights or motion a viable alternative?
Yes. One approach links the pump to bathroom or kitchen lighting, or uses motion sensors. It starts automatically as you enter, then stops after the timer. It’s convenient and phone‑free. [Elektroda, Cragmite, post #21704491]
Tracking the consumption shown on the sub-meter from the pump for heating the hot water in August with circulation on and in September with it off - I draw conclusions and ask. That the heat pump consumes electricity I know.
